My 180 4sided viewable in-wall build

Today I completed the stand... only 1" too wide... so these are the before I fix it photos... ARGH! Yes, frustrated.. but it's not going to be that big of a deal to take the 1" out of the stand... and it'll look better, and I can use the extra space in my dining room.

Here are some photos.
stand-2.jpg

stand-4.jpg

stand-7.jpg

stand-6.jpg

stand-5.jpg
 
Thank you. It's been a lot of planning, but even with the best-laid plans i know that there will be lots of interesting deviations along the way.

This week I should be focusing on the return/overflow prototypes, testing how "silent" I can get them.
 
Wow! just found this build and I must say that your thought and all into this plan is incredible! I am looking forward to following your progress.
 
Thank you all for the comments. It's been a very long road so far, but things are moving forward again and I am very pleased with how things look so far.

-Tim
 
Silent Overflows!


Well I spent some of the evening re-doing the stand to the correct size. That is done now and i'm ready for the tank. I'm hoping that i'll get people coordinated for a move as soon as tomorrow evening and have the tank on the stand at that time.

The rest of the evening I worked on the silent overflow, and it is silent! SUCCESS.

First, the parts list

4" to 2" reducer
2" to 1.5" reducer
1.5" PCV pipe - 3-4 inches
3" PVC cap

Tools

Dremel tool /w sander
Drill
Saw

Now keep in mind this is NOT the final version. The final version will be sexy and look pretty.. this was a proof of concept version, a hack-job, to ensure that it would work in principal before I started to make it pretty.

Here are the PVC parts
stand-1.jpg


The first job is to sand out the 2" to 1.5" reducer so that the 1.5" tube can fit in either end of it.
stand-2-1.jpg


Once that is complete, attach the 1.5" length of pipe to the reducer. As shown, you'll need some holes or cuts in this pipe. The depth of these cuts cannot be bigger than the depth of the 3" end-cap. Be wary of what can get into the holes, and what can clog the holes. IMO more is better as you'll control volume with the return pump and close one of the two drain lines with a ball-valve later so more holes will give you extra flow when a snail gets into this system.
stand-4-1.jpg


Insert the 2" to 1.5" reducer into the 4" to 2" reducer. Of course, if you can find a 4" to 1.5" directly then adapt (and PM me with where you got it). It should look as follows.
stand-5-1.jpg


Drill a small hole in the top center of the 3" cap. I started with 1/16 inch and will go up from there as I adjust. the 1/16th worked, but wasn't letting enough air in. Place (and in the end product glue) the 3" cap over the cut 1.5" pipe. This forms a durso overflow but does it in a circular pattern.
stand-6-1.jpg


The height of the internal 1.5" pipe was cut so that the 3" cap was about 1/8 inch below the overflow line. I did this for astetics, and btw, I do not want to glue the 1.5" pipe into the bottom of the overflow... i want to be able to take it out, throw it in the dishwasher, and put in a second one... this makes mainteance on these a frig'n joke... cost of building a second internal overflow is about $4.50... so I will have a third one built so each month I can change out one for a clean one, throw one into the dishwasher and do nothing with the other one. (sorry this is on its side)
stand-7-1.jpg



Thanks to everyone who's tagging along and reading. It's a real pleasure knowing you have an audience.

BTW this design is NOT mine, not at all. I've no idea who first did this so I'm not able to give credit, sorry and thank you to the unknown designer.
 
Wow this is amazing, and inspirational for all of those who don't have fish rooms. I just love tanks viewable from 4 sides! Great looking stand, I can't wait to see it up and running!
 
Looks like a great build and I have a feeling everything is going to be top shelf.

I know you put a lot of thinking into the flow of your tank and I'm wondering if you can point me to any good articles on the subject. I'm planning a large tank build and am leaning toward a Gyre / laminar set up, with a false back wall.

This article has reinforced the idea http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/1/aafeature

Anyway, I'll be tagging along with your build.

Gary
 
Yes, I read everything I could on flow, I've spoken to a few experts, self-proclaimed, public aquarium builders/maintainers, business who setup and manage peoples tanks, and many hobbyists. Flow is about as slippery as an eel to get information on that is solid and defensible.

What I have concluded is that flow is needed for two reasons, and any method you chose that accomplishes those two elements will work.
1) providing food and removing waste from corals
2) keeping detritus suspended until it can be removed

There are three schools of thought about flow, each has their diehards.
1) Wave-Motion
2) Chaotic/Random
3) Gyre/Laminar.

Wave-Motion - The people I spoke to were mostly biologists who continually quoted the ocean as the baseline. Obviously there is a natural approach to using wave like motion in our systems for flow. The wave motion on the reef keeps a nice supply of nutrients coming and going from our coral buddies. However in the aquarium the waves are not the same as they are in the wild. The question becomes, do we think we are sloshing the same water back-and-fourth over the corals, thus negating the reason for flow, or do we think wave motion does replicate the natural process closely. This is where the debate lies. For me, I'm a believer in the wave motions but didn't want to have water sloshing because I do not like the look at the surface-line, nor did I want to build a stand capable of handling waves.

Chaotic/Random - There is a lot of discussion about this type of flow because it is the most common in reef-systems. The theory here, as best as I understand it, is that don't bother trying to do anything fancy in your tank, just make it random and let it work it self out. I have to say, this practice, as much as it isn't scientific, is successful in every case that I saw it applied. It just feels yucky because it's not planed, or measured and certainly does not replicate the reef we commonly think of. In the case of Reason for FLow, this is the best method for keeping detritus suspended, and does an un-planned job at keeping corals fed and waste removed.... with the ability to move or adjust a powerhead compensations can be made based upon coral growth and placement... in closed-loop systems it's a bit harder to adjust down the road.

Gyre/Laminar - As you found, there are many articles about this style of flow including the setup you are considering. Basically, in my opinion, this is one of the better systems for our tanks because it is constantly supplying new water and removing waste water from our corals in one giant rolling effect. The down side is it doesn't work well to keep detritus suspended. The up-side is that it drives any suspended detritus to the overflows where it can be cleaned. It's kind of a catch-22 with this one.


In the end, I have actually gone back to random flow for this system. Partially because of the hick-up with the wrong number of holes based upon my plan, but also because it felt like I was over-thinking the flow problem. So many tanks have been amazingly successful with simple random flow patterns from a variety of powerheads I felt confident going back to that solution.
 
great build hope tp see more progress soon

Thanks. I've been struggling with getting the rockwork done.... I'll post-up some progress photos this weekend. It's slow going at this point...

Glad to see everyone following along... Thanks for reading!
 
Thanks for your synopsis, I agree that simple and proven is often the best way to go.

One reason the gyre/laminar setup keeps creeping into my thoughts is, for me, the overall presentation and visual impact is one of the best parts of a reef tank and I think a gyre flow tank will allow me to hide virtually all equipment from view. Don't get me wrong, I love the inner workings of a reef tank system, I am an engineer and like nothing better than to tweak and fiddle with technology. But I don't believe in displaying the gear for its own sake, I'll let the critters be that star of the show. I think your planed rock work will have the same effect in hiding most of the gear.

Gary
 
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