clownfish4
New member
WARNING
This thread will be VERY slow. Read at your own risk.
Background
I've been in the hobby for 15 years now. I've had tanks ranging from 5 gallons up to 125 gallons. I've had reefs and fish only tanks and have kept species from the majority of families readily available in the hobby. Most of the tanks I've had up until this point have been very low tech, relying on simple DIY mechanisms cheap materials, like milk cartons.
My current tank is going in the opposite direction. I've decided to try some of the fancy toys and go for a sleeker look overall. I've never created a tank thread before, so I figured I would start here and share everything I've done, why I've done it, and hopefully get some constructive feedback to improve my tank.
Problems
These are the biggest problems, as I see them now. I'll reference each in more detail further down this post.
- Flow rate in sump is too low
- Light isn't controllable by Apex
- pH, calcium, and alkalinity are low (with no livestock)
- Temp probe is poorly placed
- Skimmer is difficult to dial in
Current Tank
18" L x 16" W x 12" H (~18 gallons)
Rimless
1/2" acrylic
Custom built by Advanced Acrylics
The back is a rock wall I built. This is my first time building one and I think it came out okay. I used BRS dry rock, pond foam, egg crate, and dried out Arag Alive special grade sand. The only issue I had was not getting good coverage on the foam with the epoxy, so there's still a lot of black. However, I think it will actually add some good perception of depth when there are SPS corals growing on the wall.
IMG_2866 by Mike Burns, on Flickr
Sump
18" L x 10" W
Rimless
1/4" acrylic
3 chambers in a u-shaped flow pattern
Customer built by Advanced Acrylics
Sump Design Cube(2) by Mike Burns, on Flickr
IMG_2864 by Mike Burns, on Flickr
Lighting
AI Hydra
AI Director
16K at peak hour, slightly bluer ramping up and down
This is the only production LED fixture I have used. Before I got this I used two DIY LED pendants that were not controllable. The look in the tank is great and I love the controllability, however I do not like that it cannot be controlled by the Apex. I know the discontinued AWM module can control it, but I do not want to use a discontinued module.
I've had two issues with this light to date. The first was that the firmware wouldn't update because the original power cord for the Director wasn't sufficient to keep the device properly powered while upgrading the firmware of the light. The second issue I had was interference on the wi-fi channels preventing the light's firmware from updating. These problems are exasperated by the fact that they become problematic when the light randomly stops working, so the tank loses it's light for hours or days while trying to fix.
As I am not attached to this light, I am looking for something more reliable that is controllable by the Apex. Since everything else on the Apex is wired, I'd probably prefer a light with a physical connection to avoid issues with wi-fi or internet in controlling the light. Suggestions welcome!
Screenshot from 2017-08-27 17:47:03 by Mike Burns, on Flickr
Water Movement
My return pump is a Sicce Syncra 2.0, 568 gph operating at approximately 4 feet of head and feeding the aquarium through 2 1/2" returns. This was upgraded from a QuietOne 296 gph pump. Both pump were chosen based on the limited size of the return compartment in the sump.
The biggest issue I have is that the flow in the refugium is too stagnant. I am considering upgrading to the EcoTech Vectra S1 DC 1400 gph pump. In order to do so, I will have to drill a hole in the side of the sump and run the pump externally, due to its size. However, this will allow me full control of the return pump through the Apex and alleviate my flow issues in the sump.
The alternative solution is to put a small power head in the refugium, but given how small it is, I do not think this is a practical solution and has fewer benefits than upgrading to the Vectra.
The aquarium has a Tunze Turbelle Nanostream operating on a wave program. I will be adding the Apex pump control module to get better control of the Nanostream, allowing me to switch from the wave action to a constant, slow flow at night.
Since the tank is rimless, it had to be ½" thick, meaning I can't use the Vortech MP10. This is a bummer as I don't care for the cord of the Tunze in the tank.
Control
As you've probably picked up on, I'm using an Apex. This is the first time I've ever used a controller on a tank. Even though my tank is small, I decided to get the Apex 2016. The price point is reasonable for what's included and I expect it to last for many years, so it will be perfect when I upgrade my tank.
Currently I do not have any exapnsion modules and am not using anything that isn't include in the 2016. In other words, I am using it to control my power outlets and to monitor pH, temp, conductivity, and ORP.
The experience with the Apex has been interesting so far. I love the power control, being able to monitor power usage, the alerts, etc. The only thing that's been a bit tricky is the use of the probes. The instructions clearly state that the ORP probe takes a couple of weeks to calibrate itself, but do not say anything about the conductivity probe. I have not done anything to change the salinity of the tank since I added the Apex, with the exception of the minor fluctuations from evaporation top off. Yet the conductivity probe took about two weeks to reflect the actual conductivity of the tank, slowly climbing from single digits to ~35.
First Week
Screenshot from 2017-08-27 17:37:55 by Mike Burns, on Flickr
Last Week
Screenshot from 2017-08-27 17:38:26 by Mike Burns, on Flickr
I also need to figure out how to relocate the temp probe. It is currently located just upstream of the heater, which is much too close.
IMG_2865 by Mike Burns, on Flickr
Stand
I built the stand myself. As you can tell, I am not a carpenter, and built this without the best tools. I'm overall happy with the way it turned out, but there are definitely some imperfections. I plan on adding a door soon and some trim on the top to hide the imperfections on the top of the panels. I may end up doing trim down the side corners as well.
Water Parameters
Temp "“ Apex keeps it between 78 and 79 F, but the actual tank is likely colder due to the location of the temp probe. (measured by Apex probe)
pH "“ Chronically low. I have kalk in the top off water and the pH rarely goes above 7.8. (measured by Apex probe)
Conductivity "“ Hovers between 33.5 and 34.5. (measured by Apex probe)
ORP "“ Fluctuates a lot between 300 and 400. (measured by Apex probe)
Nitrate "“ 0 ppm (Salifert)
Phosphate "“ 0 ppm (Salifert)
Magnesium "“ 1050 ppm (Salifert)
Calcium "“ 350 mg/L (Hanna)
Alkalinity "“ 8.4 dKH (Hanna)
Supplements
Currently only adding kalk powder to the top off reservoir. I am likely going to use the BRS calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium powders, but haven't settled on a dosing method yet. I would like to use the Apex dosing system, but the system only has two heads and I need three. I don't particularly want to use two of them, especially if one pump won't get used at all. I will most likely use the Apex dosing system to constantly drip calcium and alkalinity and manually dose magnesium once a week.
Filtration
Skimmer "“ Cad Lights PLS-100, 3rd Gen. I hate this skimmer. It is extremely difficult to dial in. I love that is fits in the tight space, but the foam production is not great and it is impossible to get consistent performance due to how hard it is to dial in. The output hole is so small that a tiny has significant impact on the water level. The lock knobs have to be kept tight so that it doesn't fluctuate when in use, so the only way to adjust it is to completely remove it, make an adjustment, put it back in, and wait. This process is awful.
I've been researching nano-skimmers for a couple of years and have yet to find something that I think will work better. Would love suggestions here.
Activated Carbon "“ I will throw a bag in the sump from time to time, but do not plan on running carbon 24/7 by any means.
Stocking List
Currently the tank only has sand and rock in it. The tank will be SPS, with one clam. My plan is to only feed live foods, so the fish need to be carnivores. I also want to avoid jumpers, as I don't want to have an open top tank. My plan is to culture Tisbe biminiensis to feed the tank. I am debating whether or not to culture another species of pod, brine, and/or black woms. My only issue with blackworms is that they grow very large, so I would only be able to feed new borns to my nano fish.
For fish I am considering the following. Any and all input is welcome and I'd love additonal suggestions. I will likely end up with two or three fish total.
- Pink Streaked Wrasse (Pseudocheilinops ataenia) "“ I love the personality of this fish, especially its constant swimming through the rock work, and it would fare well on the live diet. However, it will be prone to jumping.
- Spotted Mandarin (Synchiropus picturatus) "“ I am ONLY considering this fish as I will be adding live pods to the tank regularly. Fulfills all of the things I am looking for. Major concern is whether or not I can maintain a tank population of pods to support it when I go on vacation, where I won't be able to add pods on a daily basis.
- Diamond Watchman Goby (Valenciennea puellaris) "“ Same as the mandarin.
- Yellow Clown Goby (Gobiodon okinawae) "“ My main hesitation on this guy is that he won't be out in the open and easy to spot. Since I will only have 2-3 fish, I worry this won't add enough excitement to the tank.
All other suggestions are welcome. Note I do NOT want any clownfishes or damselfishes and I'd like to stick to peaceful temperments.
Conclusion
I think that wraps up the majority of it. Please feel free to ask any questions and provide any and all input. I'm hoping to make this the best tank I've ever kept.
This thread will be VERY slow. Read at your own risk.
Background
I've been in the hobby for 15 years now. I've had tanks ranging from 5 gallons up to 125 gallons. I've had reefs and fish only tanks and have kept species from the majority of families readily available in the hobby. Most of the tanks I've had up until this point have been very low tech, relying on simple DIY mechanisms cheap materials, like milk cartons.
My current tank is going in the opposite direction. I've decided to try some of the fancy toys and go for a sleeker look overall. I've never created a tank thread before, so I figured I would start here and share everything I've done, why I've done it, and hopefully get some constructive feedback to improve my tank.
Problems
These are the biggest problems, as I see them now. I'll reference each in more detail further down this post.
- Flow rate in sump is too low
- Light isn't controllable by Apex
- pH, calcium, and alkalinity are low (with no livestock)
- Temp probe is poorly placed
- Skimmer is difficult to dial in
Current Tank
18" L x 16" W x 12" H (~18 gallons)
Rimless
1/2" acrylic
Custom built by Advanced Acrylics
The back is a rock wall I built. This is my first time building one and I think it came out okay. I used BRS dry rock, pond foam, egg crate, and dried out Arag Alive special grade sand. The only issue I had was not getting good coverage on the foam with the epoxy, so there's still a lot of black. However, I think it will actually add some good perception of depth when there are SPS corals growing on the wall.
IMG_2866 by Mike Burns, on FlickrSump
18" L x 10" W
Rimless
1/4" acrylic
3 chambers in a u-shaped flow pattern
Customer built by Advanced Acrylics
Sump Design Cube(2) by Mike Burns, on FlickrIMG_2864 by Mike Burns, on FlickrLighting
AI Hydra
AI Director
16K at peak hour, slightly bluer ramping up and down
This is the only production LED fixture I have used. Before I got this I used two DIY LED pendants that were not controllable. The look in the tank is great and I love the controllability, however I do not like that it cannot be controlled by the Apex. I know the discontinued AWM module can control it, but I do not want to use a discontinued module.
I've had two issues with this light to date. The first was that the firmware wouldn't update because the original power cord for the Director wasn't sufficient to keep the device properly powered while upgrading the firmware of the light. The second issue I had was interference on the wi-fi channels preventing the light's firmware from updating. These problems are exasperated by the fact that they become problematic when the light randomly stops working, so the tank loses it's light for hours or days while trying to fix.
As I am not attached to this light, I am looking for something more reliable that is controllable by the Apex. Since everything else on the Apex is wired, I'd probably prefer a light with a physical connection to avoid issues with wi-fi or internet in controlling the light. Suggestions welcome!
Screenshot from 2017-08-27 17:47:03 by Mike Burns, on FlickrWater Movement
My return pump is a Sicce Syncra 2.0, 568 gph operating at approximately 4 feet of head and feeding the aquarium through 2 1/2" returns. This was upgraded from a QuietOne 296 gph pump. Both pump were chosen based on the limited size of the return compartment in the sump.
The biggest issue I have is that the flow in the refugium is too stagnant. I am considering upgrading to the EcoTech Vectra S1 DC 1400 gph pump. In order to do so, I will have to drill a hole in the side of the sump and run the pump externally, due to its size. However, this will allow me full control of the return pump through the Apex and alleviate my flow issues in the sump.
The alternative solution is to put a small power head in the refugium, but given how small it is, I do not think this is a practical solution and has fewer benefits than upgrading to the Vectra.
The aquarium has a Tunze Turbelle Nanostream operating on a wave program. I will be adding the Apex pump control module to get better control of the Nanostream, allowing me to switch from the wave action to a constant, slow flow at night.
Since the tank is rimless, it had to be ½" thick, meaning I can't use the Vortech MP10. This is a bummer as I don't care for the cord of the Tunze in the tank.
Control
As you've probably picked up on, I'm using an Apex. This is the first time I've ever used a controller on a tank. Even though my tank is small, I decided to get the Apex 2016. The price point is reasonable for what's included and I expect it to last for many years, so it will be perfect when I upgrade my tank.
Currently I do not have any exapnsion modules and am not using anything that isn't include in the 2016. In other words, I am using it to control my power outlets and to monitor pH, temp, conductivity, and ORP.
The experience with the Apex has been interesting so far. I love the power control, being able to monitor power usage, the alerts, etc. The only thing that's been a bit tricky is the use of the probes. The instructions clearly state that the ORP probe takes a couple of weeks to calibrate itself, but do not say anything about the conductivity probe. I have not done anything to change the salinity of the tank since I added the Apex, with the exception of the minor fluctuations from evaporation top off. Yet the conductivity probe took about two weeks to reflect the actual conductivity of the tank, slowly climbing from single digits to ~35.
First Week
Screenshot from 2017-08-27 17:37:55 by Mike Burns, on FlickrLast Week
Screenshot from 2017-08-27 17:38:26 by Mike Burns, on FlickrI also need to figure out how to relocate the temp probe. It is currently located just upstream of the heater, which is much too close.
IMG_2865 by Mike Burns, on FlickrStand
I built the stand myself. As you can tell, I am not a carpenter, and built this without the best tools. I'm overall happy with the way it turned out, but there are definitely some imperfections. I plan on adding a door soon and some trim on the top to hide the imperfections on the top of the panels. I may end up doing trim down the side corners as well.
Water Parameters
Temp "“ Apex keeps it between 78 and 79 F, but the actual tank is likely colder due to the location of the temp probe. (measured by Apex probe)
pH "“ Chronically low. I have kalk in the top off water and the pH rarely goes above 7.8. (measured by Apex probe)
Conductivity "“ Hovers between 33.5 and 34.5. (measured by Apex probe)
ORP "“ Fluctuates a lot between 300 and 400. (measured by Apex probe)
Nitrate "“ 0 ppm (Salifert)
Phosphate "“ 0 ppm (Salifert)
Magnesium "“ 1050 ppm (Salifert)
Calcium "“ 350 mg/L (Hanna)
Alkalinity "“ 8.4 dKH (Hanna)
Supplements
Currently only adding kalk powder to the top off reservoir. I am likely going to use the BRS calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium powders, but haven't settled on a dosing method yet. I would like to use the Apex dosing system, but the system only has two heads and I need three. I don't particularly want to use two of them, especially if one pump won't get used at all. I will most likely use the Apex dosing system to constantly drip calcium and alkalinity and manually dose magnesium once a week.
Filtration
Skimmer "“ Cad Lights PLS-100, 3rd Gen. I hate this skimmer. It is extremely difficult to dial in. I love that is fits in the tight space, but the foam production is not great and it is impossible to get consistent performance due to how hard it is to dial in. The output hole is so small that a tiny has significant impact on the water level. The lock knobs have to be kept tight so that it doesn't fluctuate when in use, so the only way to adjust it is to completely remove it, make an adjustment, put it back in, and wait. This process is awful.
I've been researching nano-skimmers for a couple of years and have yet to find something that I think will work better. Would love suggestions here.
Activated Carbon "“ I will throw a bag in the sump from time to time, but do not plan on running carbon 24/7 by any means.
Stocking List
Currently the tank only has sand and rock in it. The tank will be SPS, with one clam. My plan is to only feed live foods, so the fish need to be carnivores. I also want to avoid jumpers, as I don't want to have an open top tank. My plan is to culture Tisbe biminiensis to feed the tank. I am debating whether or not to culture another species of pod, brine, and/or black woms. My only issue with blackworms is that they grow very large, so I would only be able to feed new borns to my nano fish.
For fish I am considering the following. Any and all input is welcome and I'd love additonal suggestions. I will likely end up with two or three fish total.
- Pink Streaked Wrasse (Pseudocheilinops ataenia) "“ I love the personality of this fish, especially its constant swimming through the rock work, and it would fare well on the live diet. However, it will be prone to jumping.
- Spotted Mandarin (Synchiropus picturatus) "“ I am ONLY considering this fish as I will be adding live pods to the tank regularly. Fulfills all of the things I am looking for. Major concern is whether or not I can maintain a tank population of pods to support it when I go on vacation, where I won't be able to add pods on a daily basis.
- Diamond Watchman Goby (Valenciennea puellaris) "“ Same as the mandarin.
- Yellow Clown Goby (Gobiodon okinawae) "“ My main hesitation on this guy is that he won't be out in the open and easy to spot. Since I will only have 2-3 fish, I worry this won't add enough excitement to the tank.
All other suggestions are welcome. Note I do NOT want any clownfishes or damselfishes and I'd like to stick to peaceful temperments.
Conclusion
I think that wraps up the majority of it. Please feel free to ask any questions and provide any and all input. I'm hoping to make this the best tank I've ever kept.
