My 300 gallon acrylic tank
- Thread starter steve the plumb
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steve the plumb
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Its a 1" male adpt that fits in the hole
steve the plumb
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Holes for over flows the smaller holes fit the 1" fitting
steve the plumb
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I should have taken a mesurement of the overflow box.I forgot to do that.
cbui2
Premium Member
worst case scenario, using a dremel to enlarge the hole will be safe then hole saw. since the hole has already been drilled, and then using another hole saw to open that up is kind of difficult without a drill bit as a guide IMO. also with the hole so close to the very top making it very fragile and looks to me overflow box are about 3/8" thick. what the size of the opening top to bottom? i see one is 19.5"L. the reason why i'm asking is to figure out what lighting fixtures can fit so they wont be directly on top of your eurobracing.
steve the plumb
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I was going to place a piece of wood inside and use a the drill bit on the hole saw to guide me.I have done that before but not on an acrylic tank.I can use a dremel it will be safer.The larger hole is 20 x20 not exact on mesurement the center hole is 20x12
.The problem is if I get a 4 ft fixture it falls right in the middle of the center hole.I may hang the lights 4 inches off the tank and have them on a rail so I can move them to work on the tank.I don't think I can have a T5 fixture right on the tank or can I but it would have to be smaller.It was kind of late so I didn't take exact pics of the top oppening
.The problem is if I get a 4 ft fixture it falls right in the middle of the center hole.I may hang the lights 4 inches off the tank and have them on a rail so I can move them to work on the tank.I don't think I can have a T5 fixture right on the tank or can I but it would have to be smaller.It was kind of late so I didn't take exact pics of the top oppening
steve the plumb
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My last display tank you mean?150 gal.I took some measurements. both larger side openings are 24"x12" they start after 6 " from end of tank.there is basically 6" all around the tank.There are 2 large openings.the middle opening is 24"x18" there is 8" inbetween the two lager openings.So 8" on both sides exact.The openings are made to be inline with everything so it does have a nice balance.The overflow is 1/8" thick so to drill those 2 holes may be a bit hard they might crack.the overflow is 5"x14 1/2" and its 6" away from the center hole(20"x12" hole the back of the opening is 6" away from overflow)I think hardest part will be the 3/4" hole in the overflow at 1/8" thick it won't be easy to enlarge plus its a tight squeeze.I think the best way is the dremel.
steve the plumb
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would I be able to use a Tunze wave box in my tank?I am thinking I won't have enough of a gap at the top.The water will spill over.
steve the plumb
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yes I will work on the stand on Sunday.I wasn't sure if there is enough room for a wave box I will have to ask roger from tunze.I don't know how much space is required on the top.
steve the plumb
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I ordered some equipment for the tank.
Dart pump for a cl system
Ocean Motions 8 way(was going to buy the 4 way but thought not enough for an 8 ft tank)
1 x1 1/2" bulkhead for intake of cl
8 x 1" for output of cl ( I may reduce to 3/" once in the tank and then use lockline)
Return pump for sump I have a mag 18 I don't know if it will be strong enough.I am running 2 x 3/4" lines in threw my overflow and if I split the two using just the mag 18 I don't think I will get a strong flow.I may get another mag 18 or get one stronger pump to handle this task.
for calcium I have the reef doser double I will use Randys 2 part
I have a octopus kalk reactor I just bought an aqua medic dosing pump and I will dose kalk with that plus a controller(I don't want to do the same mistake as with my 150)
Skimmer: ORCA NW skimmer this isn't the reefflow sequence model but the custom model from Shaun at Protein skimmers .com this should handle my system just fine
Sump: more than likely I will use a 100-150 gal tank as my sump and I will make it myself.The sump will have calerpa and a spot for a remote dsb(I will see)
I have 3 x little fishies reactors so I will use those for cabon and phos media.
I have a coralife UV unit but its not large enough for this tank so I will have to get an extra unit(I have the 18 watt unit does 250 gal so 2 units should be fine)
I have 150 pounds of mixed live rock(Florida,Tonga,Bali,and Figi) but the rock has been in bins with no light so I will buy some more,I don't know how much I will use what I have and then see.This will also help seed the tank.
BB or Sand:I am still stuck on witch way to go.Sand looks more natural in a tank but you always get those fish that like to dig.If I use sand I will go with 3" of sand.
Lights: Shaun (my skimmer guy) has a friend who build custom lighting.I may get lights from him.I am looking at 2 x 48" units with each unit using 6x54watt T5(I may overdrive them) and 1x 150 watt mh bulb(I may go with 250 watt).I wanted to avoid mh but at least I will have some shimmer effect.The unit will have fans in it.I am waiting to see what the cost will be plus what if any changes will be made.Shaun is going to make me and acrylic brace for the lights so they can sit on the tank. I will make them sit a few inches on the top(maybe 3) because I have an open space right in the middle of the tank I will need a bracket or brace where the lights meet so this is where he came up with the idea of an acrylic bracket.
Sump lights:I have a power compact unit I may use that or some kind of spot light from HD.
Controller: I will probably buy the ACIII It seems to be a good unit plus I may run ozone.I will see about the ozone unit I am still a bit nervous about that.
Top off:Tunze osmolator I had that in my other tank and worked great(except with my kalk reactor,the two didn't seem to get along well)
Heater:I have the aquamedic heat controller and some other heater(won brothers I think)
I have most other equipment from my old system Light meter,test kits all the goodies.
If anyone has any questions or thinks I left something out let me know
Dart pump for a cl system
Ocean Motions 8 way(was going to buy the 4 way but thought not enough for an 8 ft tank)
1 x1 1/2" bulkhead for intake of cl
8 x 1" for output of cl ( I may reduce to 3/" once in the tank and then use lockline)
Return pump for sump I have a mag 18 I don't know if it will be strong enough.I am running 2 x 3/4" lines in threw my overflow and if I split the two using just the mag 18 I don't think I will get a strong flow.I may get another mag 18 or get one stronger pump to handle this task.
for calcium I have the reef doser double I will use Randys 2 part
I have a octopus kalk reactor I just bought an aqua medic dosing pump and I will dose kalk with that plus a controller(I don't want to do the same mistake as with my 150)
Skimmer: ORCA NW skimmer this isn't the reefflow sequence model but the custom model from Shaun at Protein skimmers .com this should handle my system just fine
Sump: more than likely I will use a 100-150 gal tank as my sump and I will make it myself.The sump will have calerpa and a spot for a remote dsb(I will see)
I have 3 x little fishies reactors so I will use those for cabon and phos media.
I have a coralife UV unit but its not large enough for this tank so I will have to get an extra unit(I have the 18 watt unit does 250 gal so 2 units should be fine)
I have 150 pounds of mixed live rock(Florida,Tonga,Bali,and Figi) but the rock has been in bins with no light so I will buy some more,I don't know how much I will use what I have and then see.This will also help seed the tank.
BB or Sand:I am still stuck on witch way to go.Sand looks more natural in a tank but you always get those fish that like to dig.If I use sand I will go with 3" of sand.
Lights: Shaun (my skimmer guy) has a friend who build custom lighting.I may get lights from him.I am looking at 2 x 48" units with each unit using 6x54watt T5(I may overdrive them) and 1x 150 watt mh bulb(I may go with 250 watt).I wanted to avoid mh but at least I will have some shimmer effect.The unit will have fans in it.I am waiting to see what the cost will be plus what if any changes will be made.Shaun is going to make me and acrylic brace for the lights so they can sit on the tank. I will make them sit a few inches on the top(maybe 3) because I have an open space right in the middle of the tank I will need a bracket or brace where the lights meet so this is where he came up with the idea of an acrylic bracket.
Sump lights:I have a power compact unit I may use that or some kind of spot light from HD.
Controller: I will probably buy the ACIII It seems to be a good unit plus I may run ozone.I will see about the ozone unit I am still a bit nervous about that.
Top off:Tunze osmolator I had that in my other tank and worked great(except with my kalk reactor,the two didn't seem to get along well)
Heater:I have the aquamedic heat controller and some other heater(won brothers I think)
I have most other equipment from my old system Light meter,test kits all the goodies.
If anyone has any questions or thinks I left something out let me know
steve the plumb
In Memoriam
sure not a problem Hop.So far look like I will build the stand on Sunday .More than likely I will use 3/4" plywood and 2x4 just for overbuild.The outside plywood will be russian birch that I will stain and waterproof once the stand is built.
steve the plumb
In Memoriam
I started to build my stand today I am almost done.I just have to putty some nail hole then sand and stain the doors.I also have to get hinges for the doors and then when I get the bulkheads drill some holes in the tank.Here are some pics
steve the plumb
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Pieces being cut for legs and corner brace
steve the plumb
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steve the plumb
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these
are the braces being glued and screwed into the legs
steve the plumb
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steve the plumb
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legs of the stand
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