My 500 + gallon system. Last 13 years to now. Build, Aquascaping & more. Lots of pics

More progress today. My dosing pump arrived for my ATO. I spent most of lat night programming my Apex for the ATO, Water Exchange and waterbug water on the floor sensors.

I set the pump up in a temporary location and rigged some tubing from the RODI holding tank to my sump and rigged up some modification to my float switch arrangement. I wanted some addition redundancy in case a float switch failed.

I did something simple and different with my float switch setup to add that redundancy. I am using the reef fanatic floats with the micro jack connectors. I made my own breakout box with female micro jacks which I posted about in this thread some time back.

Today I stopped by radio shack and picked up headphone jack splitters. The male end plugs into a switch receptical on my breakout box and two float switches plug into the splitter and give me redundancy in my floats. It only takes one switch of a pair to shut off my top off or my water exchange. I now have 2 high level floats and 2 low level floats connected to two different switch inputs.

I added an addition float that is a "Too High" float that will shut the skimmer down, shut the ATO down, shut the water exchange down, Shut the RO/DI off, trigger alarms etc. I will also add a too low float tomorrow which also will turn on alarms.

Here are some pics of the float switch arrangement. I still need to adjust the height of the switches a bit. There are two low level floats, 2 high level floats and a "too" high level float.
DSC01220.jpg


Here are the float switch jacks plugged into the splitter.
Splitter.jpg


The breakout box.
breakout.jpg


I will also be adding some solenoid valves for an additional failsafe on the topoff line, RO/DI outlet and my water exchange lines for the litermeter. I might mess with that this weekend or next week. Last thing to do over the course of the next day or 2 will be to premanently intall the dosing pump and hose and set up the litermeter for the water exchange.

In the mean time, my sump is getting topped off as I type. I have tested all my failsafes, delays etc and everything is working. I have to credit Kenargo for his help in my Apex programs. Between his input on the Neptune forum here and his own website with tons of programming examples, I'm truley greatful!
 
More progress today. My dosing pump arrived for my ATO. I spent most of lat night programming my Apex for the ATO, Water Exchange and waterbug water on the floor sensors.

I set the pump up in a temporary location and rigged some tubing from the RODI holding tank to my sump and rigged up some modification to my float switch arrangement. I wanted some addition redundancy in case a float switch failed.

I did something simple and different with my float switch setup to add that redundancy. I am using the reef fanatic floats with the micro jack connectors. I made my own breakout box with female micro jacks which I posted about in this thread some time back.

Today I stopped by radio shack and picked up headphone jack splitters. The male end plugs into a switch receptical on my breakout box and two float switches plug into the splitter and give me redundancy in my floats. It only takes one switch of a pair to shut off my top off or my water exchange. I now have 2 high level floats and 2 low level floats connected to two different switch inputs.

I added an addition float that is a "Too High" float that will shut the skimmer down, shut the ATO down, shut the water exchange down, Shut the RO/DI off, trigger alarms etc. I will also add a too low float tomorrow which also will turn on alarms.

Here are some pics of the float switch arrangement. I still need to adjust the height of the switches a bit. There are two low level floats, 2 high level floats and a "too" high level float.
DSC01220.jpg


Here are the float switch jacks plugged into the splitter.
Splitter.jpg


The breakout box.
breakout.jpg


I will also be adding some solenoid valves for an additional failsafe on the topoff line, RO/DI outlet and my water exchange lines for the litermeter. I might mess with that this weekend or next week. Last thing to do over the course of the next day or 2 will be to premanently intall the dosing pump and hose and set up the litermeter for the water exchange.

In the mean time, my sump is getting topped off as I type. I have tested all my failsafes, delays etc and everything is working. I have to credit Kenargo for his help in my Apex programs. Between his input on the Neptune forum here and his own website with tons of programming examples, I'm truley greatful!

I noticed the sensors are held up by suction cups. What happens if the suction cups come loose from the sump wall?

Marc
 
I noticed the sensors are held up by suction cups. What happens if the suction cups come loose from the sump wall?

Marc

They are redundant so if one comes off, my top off would shut down. When the plunger rises the switch closes. If it fell down it would sink and the plunger would should rise. Even if it didnt there would still be another switch stuck to the wall. I might epoxy them to magnetic glass scubbers in near future but the cups should hold well for a while even if I dont. They stick well enough right now that its a pain to slide them.
 
That's right I think you mentioned that too. Sorry I am training and my mind has been bombardeded with data and there is not much room left. Reef Central gives my brain a break sometimes and other it just gives me a headache.
 
That's right I think you mentioned that too. Sorry I am training and my mind has been bombardeded with data and there is not much room left. Reef Central gives my brain a break sometimes and other it just gives me a headache.

I hear you. I read up so much here to keep my brain occupied that I come up with more and more ideas and create more work for myself. The funny thing is that all this work in automation is going to create much more free time to read up here even more.

I even added conductivity to the failsafe. If my salinity gets too low on my PM2, the topoff shuts off and an alarm goes off along with an email.
 
They are redundant so if one comes off, my top off would shut down. When the plunger rises the switch closes. If it fell down it would sink and the plunger would should rise. Even if it didnt there would still be another switch stuck to the wall. I might epoxy them to magnetic glass scubbers in near future but the cups should hold well for a while even if I dont. They stick well enough right now that its a pain to slide them.

I have never used switches or ATO's myself because I don't trust them. I always feel there is a possibility for failure and water damage. The switch box using headphone jacks is brilliant though.

Marc
 
I have never used switches or ATO's myself because I don't trust them. I always feel there is a possibility for failure and water damage. The switch box using headphone jacks is brilliant though.

Marc

Yea. I have had similar concerns which is why I decided to add the redundancy that I did. The dosing pump I am using is pretty slow. It can only add like 25 gallons total in a 24 hour period. No doubt I will constantly keep an eye on things to make sure things dont get out of whack. Forutanely, I have plenty of visual markers to indicate a problem.

Since I fired the ATO up earlier its added less than 5 gallons and has a few more to go until it shuts off. I'm going to go to bed and I expect when I get up in 6 hours my ATO will be off and my sump will be full to level I have my float switches set at. Since I have tested the floats and know they turn the ATO off, I am sure I dont have any worries tonight. Time will tell, but I am reasonably comfortable with the current setup. I will also consider putting in a dedicated ATO controller which will use the Apex as a failsafe. That would add an addional bit of piece of mind.
 
The ATO has been working like a charm! Having my water level in my sump so consistant has made dialing in my skimmer a pleasure. My skimmer is more stable than ever!

Today I calibrated my LiterMeter 3 and second pump. To calibrate it, you run each pump one at a time while pumping into a measuring device capable of measuring 500ml. At the 500ml mark you push a button. You do this using your existing plumbing so it can account for hose length variations.

I am now doing automatic water changes of 3.57G per day for a total of 25G per week or 100 per month. I will likely increase that once I get more salt to mix into my 55G holding tank.

The litermeter is a pretty cool setup. It removes water in miniscule amounts and then adds in miniscule amounts and does this on and off all day long. Depending on the total dailing transfer requirement, it will will run at longer intervals. The pumps are capable of moving around 50G a day if memory serves me. My usage per day is minimal so it only runs for several seconds at a time. Shuts off for a few minutes then goes to the second pump for several seconds then off for a few minutes and then the cycle repeats.

Ich is all but gone. The loss of life was more than I care to discuss but it wasnt a total loss. I think there were other factors that contributed to the casualties such as my dropping the salinity, plumbing changes, etc but it certainly wont be in vein.

I have an older Aquazone 200 Plus that I plan on putting to use again. I picked up a used MRC CR-2 dual chamber calcium reactor. I have since been working on modifiing it to be a combination Ozone reactor and calcium reactor for the ozone effluent. I have drilled the lid and tapped it for half inch PVC fittings and modified the original connections in the cylinders as well. I picked up some Bio Bale media to stuff the O3 reactor with. The water will be fed via one of my spare reactor gate valves. I have a Mazzie venturi injector that the water will be pushed through into the reactor. The Ozone will be pumped in through the injectors valve. All the water and ozone will have to pass through the bale material before it exits the first cylinder and then has to pass through the carbon cylinder before returning to the sump.

Some of you may be wondering why I dont just use my skimmer. Truth is I ask myself the same question. If I were to use my skimmer, I would need a box filled with carbon that the skimmers effluent would have to pass through. This would require me to rearrange the live rock in my sump which is a pain. The reactor idea should be a bit more servicable as well as high tech. If it comes out like I think it will, it should be much more efficient as well.

I will post some pics of that project shortly.
 
Some of you may be wondering why I dont just use my skimmer. Truth is I ask myself the same question. If I were to use my skimmer, I would need a box filled with carbon that the skimmers effluent would have to pass through. This would require me to rearrange the live rock in my sump which is a pain. The reactor idea should be a bit more servicable as well as high tech. If it comes out like I think it will, it should be much more efficient as well.
why would you have to run it through a carbon filter? just wondering... i have never used O3 before

i always thought if you run it through your skimmer that you were fine. (as i said, i have never used it)
 
So you use the litermeter 3 for the water change..Pretty Cool....I guess you have a pump running 24/7 in saltwater storage tank.
 
So you use the litermeter 3 for the water change..Pretty Cool....I guess you have a pump running 24/7 in saltwater storage tank.
The Litermeter uses its own pump built in to take water from the tank and another litermeter pump that plugs into the main unit which return water to the tank from a 55G drum outside in the shed. I will probably set my mixing pump to come on a couple times a day to circulte the water in the drum.

Here is a picture of the calcium reactor when I got it. The price was reasonable enough that I figured it be sacraficed (worst case scenario).

reactor.jpg


Here is where I am at. The white PVC down below on the left side will be replaced with black stuff. The tops are connected via 1/2" semi rigid lines with JG fittings. I need to get a stainless pressure guage for the top of the unit so I can monitor pressure. That will help me dial in my flow to optimize it effeciancy.
ozone-reactor3.jpg



I am pretty pleased with the way its turning out. I need to check to make sure my JG fittings and lines are ozone safe. Fortunately nothing is glued or permanant at this point.

Im also debating on whether I should have the ozone and water injected into the base of the right side cylinder or at the top of it. If I inject it at the base, the ozone/water would be sprayed in to the cylinder and distributed through the bubble plate at the bottom and travel upwards through the bale. If I inject from the top, The water would only be in the last few inches at the bottom. The water mixed with ozone would be sprayed through the bio bale and run slowly downward instead of running through it like a big pipe. Im building it so I can switch it around if needed. I figure I will only be running between 100 and 300 GPH through it. Probably closer to 100 which is withing range of the flow needed for the Mazzei injector Im using.

I might cut the cylinders off the base and remount them to a new base. The cement joint at the base of one of the cylinders is not to my liking. My plastics guy will make quick work of that for me should I decide to do that. That will all depend on how this turns out which I think will be great. I also want to come up with a way to mount it to the wall. I have a couple simple ideas in mind for that.

It will also be able to be returned to a calcium reactor if ever needed.
 
Last edited:
If it doesn't work you can send it my way.hahahahh Question is the main thing with ozone just to clear the water yellow tint? I remember reading on them a while back. I think the name is a cool enough reason to have one.
 
If it doesn't work you can send it my way.hahahahh Question is the main thing with ozone just to clear the water yellow tint? I remember reading on them a while back. I think the name is a cool enough reason to have one.

Ozone is a sterilization method. It can be useful to control parasites as well as algae. All water that passes through the ozone reactor will come out cleaner, more parasite free and gain ORP. It also helps keep the water clear but that's not my primary reason for using it.
Is your tank low iron or acrylic?

Acrylic.
 
Last edited:
Ozone is a sterilization method. It can be useful to control parasites as well as algae. All water that passes through the ozone reactor will come out cleaner, more parasite free and gain ORP. It also helps keep the water clear but that's not my primary reason for using it.


Acrylic.

are you using orp probe on your apex Scott?
 
are you using orp probe on your apex Scott?

Yes. I do have ORP on the Apex. The Ozone controller has one too. Apex will be the failsafe for the ozone. I was actually thinking about putting a probe port on the reactor so I can measure the ORP inside of it as well to help dial the reactor.
 
Back
Top