My 500 + gallon system. Last 13 years to now. Build, Aquascaping & more. Lots of pics

Please for the love of GOD, DON'T LET JIM DOSE COPPER!!! That would defenetly cause more problems down the line. Just feed well with plenty Selcon and other vitamins and some garlic and it should clear up by itself.

Marc
What vitamins do you suggest? I use garlic in my daily feedings and have done so for years. I was planning on making up some of my own food to insure they get better nutrition that just mycis, nori, garlic and pellets.

As far as copper in the reef goes, we would move all the inverts out into another tank, but that is the absolute last resort and I am completely opposed to it..

copper "IN" a reef tank is BAD!!!!!

another option, (which i have heard of, but never actually done this) is to do a fresh water dip. i have heard that if you pull the infected fish and dip it in fresh water for X amount of time, and then you can re-introduce it to the tank. i hope others chime in, because i def dont want to lead you in the wrong direction.

i hope you get it figured out.


also, i had one incident with ich, and good feeding and garlic solved mine. just wanted to share.

We were talking about the fresh water dip last night. The problem is catch fish in my tank due to its size and rock volume..
 
I've had luck using "œPolyp Labs Medic" to treat ick in conjunction with soaking food in fresh garlic. People had mix results with the product but I had great results, no fish loss and no effect on corals. Although, the treatment did take longer then the directions stated, it took me a month to treat the tank. Maybe you can give this a try.

http://www.polyplab.com/medic.html


Good luck with the ick problem, I know it is a pain but hopefully things work out.

Dany
 
I’ve had luck using “Polyp Labs Medic” to treat ick in conjunction with soaking food in fresh garlic. People had mix results with the product but I had great results, no fish loss and no effect on corals. Although, the treatment did take longer then the directions stated, it took me a month to treat the tank. Maybe you can give this a try.

http://www.polyplab.com/medic.html


Good luck with the ick problem, I know it is a pain but hopefully things work out.

Dany

I too used Medic from polyplab with good results. I had a rather severe strain of ich that progressed rapidly while waiting for the Medic to arrive in the mail, I had to use double dose (its safe to use a triple dose) for 20 days but it saved the remaining fish that were covered in ich and not eating any more, no loss of livestock in my mixed reef, a remarkable product.
 
Damn, That Medic stuff is expensive. One bottle apparently treats 500 gallons.. Does that mean I would need 10 bottles for 10 days worth of treatment? Any suggestions on a good temp to increase the ich cycle? I am at 82* right now...
 
Damn, That Medic stuff is expensive. One bottle apparently treats 500 gallons.. Does that mean I would need 10 bottles for 10 days worth of treatment? Any suggestions on a good temp to increase the ich cycle? I am at 82* right now...

One bottle of Medic treats 550g over a treatment period of 7 days I believe, so for example 4 bottles would treat 550g system volume, double the standard dose,for 14 days. There is plenty in each bottle, not stingy.
 
One bottle of Medic treats 550g over a treatment period of 7 days I believe, so for example 4 bottles would treat 550g system volume, double the standard dose,for 14 days. There is plenty in each bottle, not stingy.

I will have 4 bottles of medic as well as a bottle of Selcon Saturday delivered. Hope this works!

Great Build, I really like the yorkie carrier. Wonder if I can get one of those ins bichon size?

No problem with the Bichon. They should fit nicely as well though might be a bit tight around the collar! My step dad had a couple way back when. Cools dogs but boy did his have stinky breath!
 
As far as copper in the reef goes, we would move all the inverts out into another tank, but that is the absolute last resort and I am completely opposed to it..



We were talking about the fresh water dip last night. The problem is catch fish in my tank due to its size and rock volume..


I have never used copper either, but if you pulled your corals out, and dosed copper in your tank, it would get in all the rock, and sand. so there for you would have copper in your tank for a long time. i would be scaired to keep corals in that tank from now on. (it would eventually leach in the sump rock and mud.)

if you go as far as to pull the corals/inverts out, why not just net the fish and fresh water dip. (you wont have as much stuff in the way.


also, if you caught one fish a week, you would start a decline in the ICH.

just an outsider thought again.
 
I will have 4 bottles of medic as well as a bottle of Selcon Saturday delivered. Hope this works!
!

make sure you follow the directions, turn off your UV, also polyplabs is very responsive if you email them with questions, except weekends
 
What vitamins do you suggest? I use garlic in my daily feedings and have done so for years. I was planning on making up some of my own food to insure they get better nutrition that just mycis, nori, garlic and pellets.

As far as copper in the reef goes, we would move all the inverts out into another tank, but that is the absolute last resort and I am completely opposed to it..



We were talking about the fresh water dip last night. The problem is catch fish in my tank due to its size and rock volume..

First off from my vast experience with this disease is to raise the temperature to 82 to 83 degrees, corals and shrimp will be fine. This will speed up the life cycle of the parasite as well as boost the fishes immune system. Feed a variety of Selcon, Vitamin C supplement soaked inside Ocean Nutrition Formula two and soak Nori sheets in selcon as well. Garlic oil that comes in pill form from a vitamin store is much more powerful and the odor is strong enough to help fight ick off it's host. Break a capsul open and drip the garlic oil on the fish food including nori and feed immediatly after mixing. The fish should devour it and keep them full as well as the digested oil will shortly begin to produce an odor from the fish itself that will help prevent ick from re -attaching to the host fish. Freshwater dips DO NOT WORK WITH WHITE ICK, freshwater baths only work with black ick, not white ick. No need to put the fish under more stress. Also aerate, aerate, aerate because once the ick attacks the gills the fish will suffocate from a lack of oxygen in the water and die. Even if you have to temporarily put the beckett skimmer back on line will help greatly with oxygen levels. Also if you have a UV unit run a powerhead connected to a piece of tubing to the UV sterilizer and run tthe UV directly from the display tank itelf, this will ensure a greater percentage of ick that will be sucked up into the UV during the free swimming stage. Running the UV in the sump will do absolutely nothing for you. Run in it a recirculation loop in the display tank itself. This is all you can do at the moment to ensure erradication of the disease. Please don't treat your tank with copper because your liverock will be ruined forever as well as the nitrifying and denitrfying bacteria on and within it! Copper bonds to rock and everything and everything especially your sand bed would absorb the copper. Then bye bye reef!!! If you have any more questions send me a PM and I can give you the best advice I have. I have 10 years experience in a public aquarium and have successfully rid ick and other protozans within reef displays without the use of any type of medication, especially copper.

Marc
 
First off from my vast experience with this disease is to raise the temperature to 82 to 83 degrees, corals and shrimp will be fine. This will speed up the life cycle of the parasite as well as boost the fishes immune system. Feed a variety of Selcon, Vitamin C supplement soaked inside Ocean Nutrition Formula two and soak Nori sheets in selcon as well. Garlic oil that comes in pill form from a vitamin store is much more powerful and the odor is strong enough to help fight ick off it's host. Break a capsul open and drip the garlic oil on the fish food including nori and feed immediatly after mixing. The fish should devour it and keep them full as well as the digested oil will shortly begin to produce an odor from the fish itself that will help prevent ick from re -attaching to the host fish. Freshwater dips DO NOT WORK WITH WHITE ICK, freshwater baths only work with black ick, not white ick. No need to put the fish under more stress. Also aerate, aerate, aerate because once the ick attacks the gills the fish will suffocate from a lack of oxygen in the water and die. Even if you have to temporarily put the beckett skimmer back on line will help greatly with oxygen levels. Also if you have a UV unit run a powerhead connected to a piece of tubing to the UV sterilizer and run tthe UV directly from the display tank itelf, this will ensure a greater percentage of ick that will be sucked up into the UV during the free swimming stage. Running the UV in the sump will do absolutely nothing for you. Run in it a recirculation loop in the display tank itself. This is all you can do at the moment to ensure erradication of the disease. Please don't treat your tank with copper because your liverock will be ruined forever as well as the nitrifying and denitrfying bacteria on and within it! Copper bonds to rock and everything and everything especially your sand bed would absorb the copper. Then bye bye reef!!! If you have any more questions send me a PM and I can give you the best advice I have. I have 10 years experience in a public aquarium and have successfully rid ick and other protozans within reef displays without the use of any type of medication, especially copper.

Marc

Marc,
Thanks for the advice. I have a 60 watt UV that I just got new bulbs for. I think its a bit undersized for the tank but I will hook it to a power head that I can hang into the tank tomorrow. I will just keep the flow down through it.

I plan on mixing up a concoction meal for the fish that will include the Selcon, spirolina, Nori, shrimp and other stuff. I will also include the extract from the garlic capsules.

Putting the beckett back online will be very difficult as I would have to add a couple more bulkheads to the sump. If I aim one of my koralias at the surface of the water inside the tank, would that suffice?
 
Marc,
Thanks for the advice. I have a 60 watt UV that I just got new bulbs for. I think its a bit undersized for the tank but I will hook it to a power head that I can hang into the tank tomorrow. I will just keep the flow down through it.

I plan on mixing up a concoction meal for the fish that will include the Selcon, spirolina, Nori, shrimp and other stuff. I will also include the extract from the garlic capsules.

Putting the beckett back online will be very difficult as I would have to add a couple more bulkheads to the sump. If I aim one of my koralias at the surface of the water inside the tank, would that suffice?

The extra powerheads toward the surface should be fine. I know having to skimmers running would be overkill but whatever gets the job done in my opinion. For a sixty watt, as long as you don't exceed 200 gph through it, it should work. What brand is it? If it's an emperor aquatic you might have to slow the flow down a little, if it's an Aqua Ultraviolet you can shoot just over 200 gph and still the UV would kill ick protazoa. Also when you run the UV you may notice that your nitrites may spike and rise to .25 ppm. This is normal as the bacteria population in the water itself will decrease but should return to zero in a week.

Marc
 
Not sure if some you already mentioned lowering your salinity in the tank a little. I read someone finaly said something about copper and the rocks. I did use copper once on f/o tank and most of my fish still died. Years later whne i moved another tank I noticed some fish with it.. Good feading with garlic and c, no messing with things in the tankfor less stress, and a lower salinity and the fish made it. Some of the fish from that transition are in my 300 today. Good Luck
 
Not sure if some you already mentioned lowering your salinity in the tank a little. I read someone finaly said something about copper and the rocks. I did use copper once on f/o tank and most of my fish still died. Years later whne i moved another tank I noticed some fish with it.. Good feading with garlic and c, no messing with things in the tankfor less stress, and a lower salinity and the fish made it. Some of the fish from that transition are in my 300 today. Good Luck

Lowering the salinity is a good idea to but this ick situation is occurring in a reef tank where lowering the salinity would have adverse effects on Scotts corals and inverts as well as the new refugium. If this were a FOWLR system I would say go for a salinity of 1.018. At a specific gravity of 1.018, the fish would be less stressed as well as the oxygen levels would be higher and more stable. Also ick will not survive to long in the lowest of 1.015 or lower. But again this is a reef tank and it's ill advised to lower the salinity so low. A specific gravity of 1.022 would be the absolute minumum.

Marc
 
i alway have ick on my system since i started the hobby 7 years ago
for the past 3 years none of my fish died from ick despite of no claner shrimp , no uv sterilizer just 1 fat and healthy cleaner wrasse even with 12 large tangs @ 1 point
i always feed heavy So the fish never loses its appetite and energy to fight tge ick off but the ick is always there i was thinking of qt all of my current fish in two weeks when i upgrade to 435 gallon but some of them i have for 5 years.
Regardless good luck Scott!
Thanks
lawrence
 
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