My 500G Osama Reef-2

ca1ore.. Thanks for the excellent points U make. I like the thought of doing something to prevent the skimmer from emptying out and causing flooding. Does anyone know how that can be accomplished. My skimmer is sitting outside the main tank framing at one end in a "Fish Equipment closet" Matt modified for us
 
probably a bit late now but I am installing a rubber membrane (shower/pond liner) under my stand and sump (it's one continuous pan -so-to-speak) with a small drain which runs to the sewer. This is my Oh ****! savior. Not that one ever plans to have a flood however I'm convinced that at some point I will. I will also use water sensors which when tripped will cause only internal pump on sump (mp10 to turn on) and main tank (mp60) to run.

I am considering using an extra layer of failsafe by having the APEX controller and all but essential equip plugged into a "waterbug" type appliance so it kills power to apex if my savior detects water level above 1/2". The essential internal powers would still be powered by the Apex power bar plugged into another outlet.

In this way I hope to have a safety for APEX failure, APEX programming failure, plumbing leaks, or serious overflow conditions caused by stuck floats, not properly programmed, stuck valve etc. A stuck valve is the reason I want to mount the waterbug up 1/2" - it will allow the APEX to send an email warning, sound the alarm, etc before its shut off.

just some thoughts I have been thinking. I'd really like a whole house water main solenoid shutoff to work with the waterbug but that thought is for another day.
 
I'd pull out the skimmer, put down a membrane in your skimmer closet and then put the skimmer in a large tote.

Or........ you can custom build a large sump using some plywood and pond liner then sit your skimmer in that. screw the plywood to the closet walls and stepl the pond liner to the plywood.
In this way your skimmer can operate, drain down, startup, etc without worries. In this case do not install an open drain in the custom sump. The down side is that working on the skimmer may be challenging.
 
smb: How will the rubber membrane look under a 500g tank. Not that I can do it now but I guess it would have to sit entirely withing the finished framing. Send us some picture after U are done... Went to your thread and did not see a picture of finished product... Impressive work on the house as well.. I am hoping to be able to do something else/more with the APEX after I figure it out. Been out of this hobby for 5 yrs or so and did well with Neptune I owned then. It is a great instrument once you get to know how to program & use it .. May need your help again in few days!!
 
It is not immediately clear from the photo exactly how the skimmer is plumbed. But, essentially, if the skimmer really did fully empty with loss of power, then you need to set it up so that the output of the skimmer passes though and over a stand-pipe that is close to the full height of the skimmer body. Rather how water height is controlled in an in-sump skimmer.

The other observation I would make is that the new versions of the Apex controller have a failsafe command (FALLBACK ....) that allows you to set the condition of the controlled item should power be lost to the head unit. A main pump, for example would be set to FALLBACK ON, so the pump would continue to operate if the Apex were compromised. Obviously this doesn't help in the event of a full power failure, but is protects against controller failure.
 
@Osama - kinda difficult to explain in word but my stand is steel.

So the rubber goes under the stand and over the outside edge of the stand frame (2"). This makes a 2" deep drain pan.

Inside of the steel frame (under the tank) will be a large sump which extends almost to the edges of the stand.

The finish exterior wooden frame which covers your stand hides the rubber and gives a finished look. I am designing my finish frame to be fiberglass and easily removed probably with magnets as I do not want any holes in my steel frame.

I'll be sure to post pictures when done. I should have the rubber down and tank on stand by this weekend. I'm hoping to clean, fill, and water test system by the end of this week.
 
ca1ore: thanks again & I plan on using APEX to the fullest and I like the Fallback feature you noted. I also have a backup power for my 4-MP60a that will keep one on each of the two backup batteries operating for about 20hrs.
Now that I am looking closely at my skimmer I think that my problem is only slightly aggravated by the return from the skimmer. Flow is as follows, looking at the above skimmer picture: flow comes in thru the front most pipe then thru the UV unit then into the skimmer thru the front higher pipe. Return is just 9 inches below & behind the intake so if I can get Apex to shut the lower skimmer pump the added volume of water will be relatively small.
Additionally I wonder how difficult it would be for Matt to add capacity into the two adjacent 65G tank by lowering the returns from those tanks by an inch or so
I also have a 150g unused acrylic sump in the basement.. Any thoughts on how I can use it to avert catastrophe.. Tank routine drainage for water changes will drain from FR to basement and a drain pipe is in place that can be extended to reach the basement tank/sump
 
smb I get your idea about the rubber-tub, good thinking !! Impressive thoughts also about fiber glass finish with magnets... and no holes into the steel frame. Can't wait for the finish line and your pictures. Best of luck Sounds AWESOME... I think we are all a bit nutty to be in this hobby, I know I am, hard work and pay is in the pleasure we feel when we succeed.. hard work nevertheless.. I love it and glad that wife enjoys it as well
 
If I understand correctly .... putting an overflow-to-drain in your sump because too much water flows in when power is out is not a good idea. OK, yes, it will prevent a sump overflow, but when the pumps restart there will not be enough water in the system and your ATO will then make up the difference. OK once, but over time salinity can be affected. Far better to figure out what went wrong and either setup the skimmer so it cannot fully backflow or add another sump reservoir.

I agree with this I would worry about salinity swings which could be damaging to the fish.
 
The drain will work fine. In case of a power outage he can send an email on power up and check his parameters when he comes home. That much water a little drain pan probably won't do much.

Osama how much water are you talking about on the floor. If it checked fine without the skimmer it couldn't have been much. I guess my point is that I would rather have a drain with no cleanup of water should it occur then have to clean up the water. Plus, an ATO will kick in no matter where it ends up be it a pan or a drain. Only thing he could do is probably some really complex program within an auto water change system and a salinity probe.
 
I fully agree and I need to figure out with Matt what is the best way to keep the system from overflowing. Meanwhile have the overflow in case of serious unpredictable mishap. More mishaps may force wife to dictate an undesirable outcome... We will try controlling the level in the sump with level sensor and APEX shutting down the skimmer pump and test if the system will contain all the water or not. Next I think I want Matt to look into lowering the levels during operation of the frag and refuge tank so they can hold more water in case of power failure and we go from there. More to report on in the future.. Thanks and I hope there is a simple solution that we can adopt at this stage..
 
Osama I really think that is your best bet. Matt knows your system as good as you at this point.

It'll all come down to what he implements and your apex programming ability. I'm ordering floats for my apex and they seem to be a huge advantage for you in terms of fail safes. However, in the catastrophic failure catagory a drain would keep you happy and dry with little cleanup. With the fallback features on apex the system could comeback online and notify you that you should be checking your parameters in regards to salinity.
 
Midnight: Thanks for joining in .. I believe the volume of water was less than 10 gallons and maybe only 5-6 gallons in a system of 500+3X65= less than 700 gallons. I believe this is manageable: unfortunately if and when this happens after we have the system balanced as best we can, the fish and corals will get stressed but no serious damage should occur. I am more concerned about ruining our rooms that we are finishing properly to enjoy our tank.. I will also be checking my parameter via internet using APEX. Have to limit water on our floors and take good care of the reef inhabitants.
 
Cleaning the glass

Cleaning the glass

Seeking opinions on best way to clean glass tank surface
Using magnets: Is it the best approach if not what is suggested
and if yes how to avoid getting particles trapped between surfaces
How about close to the sand bed use magnets as well
I cannot reach bottom of tank by hand (30 inches deep tank) .
 
I used a two method approach. For quick cleanings I use a magnet. Just be sure that you don't have any particles trapped on either side.

For a situation where the magnet won't do I use a Kent scrapper. They sell them that long and they are quick and easy.
 
Thanks Midnight, do U use the scraper with the metal blade or the plastic blade. I understand that for glass tanks the metal blade is OK and plastic blade for acrylic or is it safer to use the plastic blade also on glass tank as it does or does not clean as well?
 
I use the metal blade. But, my glass is old and already imperfect. When my new tank is up and running I'm planning on trying the plastic blade. No matter what blade you use make sure you are very careful around the seems.
 
reason I am asking: I did manage to scratch my old 180g beautiful tank I think I was negligent with the blade not being perfectly straight, not sure, but I did scratch it.. I will start by trying out the plastic but most likely have to get to the metal ones .. I think your idea to use the blades only on hard to reach surfaces makes a lot of sense and reduces chance of scratching the middle of the tank surface..
 
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