My 65 Gallon Mixed Reef

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Potatohead will use anything to get as high up as he can before launching himself at me lol.

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This is how crazy he is, he actually swims upside down at the water surface trying to reach me when i have my hands close to the surface taking pics. You can see how he's disturbing the water with his swimming - batsh*t crazy is our Potatohead................:rolleye1:

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I was trying to show the SSC frags i stuck above the red table. The table has gone a bit off in color, it has a rusty red look atm which isn't crash hot but no damage from the alk luckily. Btw, most of my SSC have purple/bluish encrusting edges which seems to be the norm as both the different ones i have show the same thing, is that what you guys see as well.

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Awesome. That blue encrusting is reassuring that I actually have an SSC. :D

Potatohead is hilarious. That top pic is killer.
 
What you guys still maintain reefs in the nude? That is so old school...I use my wet suite hooked up to my apex controller.

I agree on TOTM material, you should be next! Plus you have the desire to teach & get the point across. I have learned the most from you RE sps's.

1) Holly Friggin Sh*t. That is a lot you pour into your tank. That skimmer must be the bomb or my skimmer must be as good, but that I just never put that much crap into my tank. I always RINSE out the mysis, brine, & blood worms before adding it into the tank.
If I were not to do that, then ALGAE hell is what would ensue from my experience years ago. So you feed like this EVERY SINGLE DAY?

That is some dedication for you to go through this turning this on & off and waiting 10min & then another hour each day. To be quite honest, I don't know if I can do that for any length of time before deciding to wing it.

2) So 6 months ago I started my reef tank, after years being out of hobby. I also started enjoying & keeping more SPS's. I was an impatient idiot 3 weeks ago & added a rock to my main tank from another reefer. He took the rock out of his system & let it dry out. It did not look bad at all & after months of having it sit around I needed a piece badly & so threw it in.
The next day my biggest SPS, pink birdsnets, started to bleach out. From the bottom it started to get white & by the end of that 2nd day it was mostly gone, with RTN. It also started to bleach 2 nearby SPS's, so I fragged the tops & placed in my 29g experimental tank.
Mind you I had not done sand in years, yet chose to do a DSB in this little tank. I placed all my cuts all over, including plugs into the sand bed. All further RTN stopped mostly BUT. Areas that were covered with sand it bleached ALL the way just in the spot covered with sand. Even days after if sand was shifted & blocked a part of SPS, you can bet where it touched & blocked the SPS for a few hours it would turn white.
I have very fine & soft sand & the corals in question were pink birdsnets, birds of paradise, green tip orange birdsnest, & green pocillopora damicornis. So I would put a little warning lable on the sand idea. I was shocked at this & asked isn't there sand in the ocean & during storms I was sure it would get all over?

Where exactly do you insert the Apex lead on your person mate.........

Whilst i appreciate the mention of TOTM by some of my mates here :beer: the display needs at least another 12 months under its belt of growing in before it will look anywhere near the quality of the previous recipients of that distinction. To my eyes it still looks very artificial and everything needs to be at least 50% bigger before you'll see the real point of why i've placed things the way i have and where. The color contrasts will be much greater once branches begin overlapping much more :)
I normally feed that much every day plus nori and mini pellets for the fish. I usually split it into two feeds, one before lights on and one after but i wanted you to see the total daily amount i add overall every day purely aimed at feeding the reef - not just the acros but every thing that lives in the tank that produces anything of benefit to the corals through its living processes. At the moment i am only feeding one pinch of reef roids in the morning and one of cyclop-eeze at night since alk goof shut down everything.

At night i turn the skimmer off, tip a bit in and go watch tv for 10-15 mins then i pour the rest in. 60-90 mins later i turn the skimmer back on. I don't bother turning the skimmer off in the morning because i go to work soon after feeding. I wouldn't really class what i do as particularly involved lol - if you think that's a struggle then you are definitely a lazy bastard and belong here with the rest of us 'can't really be bothered' reefers.......:beer::smokin:

That's interesting about the birdsnests and pocil. I hate both those corals, the pocil is a pest when it spits polyps all over the tank and i still can't keep seri's happy so i blame them for that. I've only buried acros and if i buried any of the ones you mentioned i wouldn't ever dig them up tbh lol. Never seen an acro bleach under the sand but i'm glad you shared that info on your experience mate. What exactly did the rock release to bring about such a violent reaction, any clues as to what happened. Carbon would be the go if you haven't started already and a biggish water change - i'm such a water change hypocrite because i wouldn't bother doing the water change myself lol.
I was only sharing some info on my experience with rapidly halting RTN and i didn't mean it to sound like burying your corals was some miracle cure. It doesn't always work but if something is a goner it at least gives you another last resort option, nothing more.
I miss my DSB and all the crazy stuff that lived in it. if i couldn't keep my nitrates at zero on Salifert i'd throw a 5" one in the 20x20x12" sump section the clowns now live in and that would be the end of nitrates no matter how much crap i fed the tank. I think it's good you're running one mate. :)

Awesome. That blue encrusting is reassuring that I actually have an SSC. :D

Potatohead is hilarious. That top pic is killer.

Hi mate, yes Potatohead would attack divers if he was returned to the ocean lol.

I want to show you the drastic difference between the effect on colors across some of my acros. Your eyes will be drawn to the stuff that hasn't really taken a hit but look at the stuff i circled - all that stuff was brightly colored before the bloody alk overdose. As always i am p*ssed that green stuff never even noticed something was up, green acros would live in a bucket...... the hairy fluoro green stag pieces are funky so i like them.

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Check out the bloody temp forecast i have for the coming week - slightly warm lol.

http://www.bom.gov.au/vic/forecasts/melbourne.shtml
 
Thanks for the info on the LED mate. I missed that somehow.

This just looks beautiful:
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Potatohead is a truly mad shrimp. :lol:

With regards to the amount of food that goes into my tank: I feed like 4 times as much as before, and my tank deals with it nicely. I used to need to wipe the brown biofilm on the glass once every 7-8 days! Back then my skimmate never used to smell horrible or anything.

Now I am needing to wipe the glass every 2-3 days at least. I havent had any algae explosion or anything like that thank god. The skimmate can now make me puke if I took a long sniff of it. Its that bad. I think the two show that I wasnt feeding my tank properly.

Thanks to you, I've been enlightened about feeding my tank. :thumbsup:
 
No probs on the LED info Sahin. I'm glad you've seen results from slowly increasing the foods mate, i have to do the glass every 2-3 days too which is right where i always want it. Pain the clean but i'll trade 10 mins work for better colors any day of the week :thumbsup:
My skimmate always stinks so it sounds like you have everything well under control mate. Bello was telling me how he tips some under the drivers seat of his wife's car when she p*sses him off.......
I've seen the beautiful colors you're getting on lots of your acros now Sahin so if you have some still languishing i'd either cut and run with fresh stock or start moving all the sulky ones around. I'm pretty brutal with acros that are browned out from lots of downtime due to bad water or whatever. i quite often toast them for 1-2 days under very high light to basically force them to expel a large number of zoa (brown) fast which lightens the branches drastically. To my way of thinking they dump as much light gathering 'photo cells' as possible to minimise the sudden high light exposure. I then drop them to medium light and this way i see pigment colors return much quicker. It's not for the feint hearted and you need an eye for how much stress an acro is displaying so don't everyone go killing their brown acros. Someone with your eye and experience should give it a go, you know you wanna 'speriment'......:reading:
All our tanks are different so what works for me might need tweaking on another setup. Nothing i do is new or different to how it was being done years ago. I keep my tank looking the same to my eyes as i did years ago when phos was never mentioned let alone tested for. I have the same 'look' in regards to algae as i did back then so i guess i ran low phos just as i do now, i don't bother using the Hanna anymore unless something looked way off. I always had zero nitrates with a DSB and prob 3 times the rock i use now - you're talking serious bio filtration lol. I'm comfortable running zero or near to it but if you see great results with phos and nitrates reading who cares.

Realistically you only need to tick off two things to see great results. Lighting - There are very obvious choices whichever way you go be it halide, T5 or LED. You can easily make an ATI hybrid like setup by replacing my single radium with say 2 x full spectrum chinese LED's. - this aint gonna happen so don't even go there ! Point is it's fine to experiment but there's no excuse for not having the right lighting with all the info on here with pics to back them up. Don't go into the unknown if you're starting out with SPS and put yourself behind the eight ball at the beginning.
Water is the other thing to sort out and if you're running close to what the ocean is in most methodologies you'll be fine. It's the balance between how many nutrients you try to enrich the water with and how you go about removing and or controlling them that is only learned the hard way through trial and error. The more you try pushing your tanks nutrient limit over time the better you become at keeping a reef that's rich in micro life which will in turn see good results from your corals.
That's just my little rant about nothing lol.

Check out my sump clowns still working out the whole breeding thing. They're turning very dark and now look black instead of very dark brown. I like having something to catch my eye down in the sump so the clowns are perfect - need another shrimp for down there. I haven't cleaned the glass for weeks so excuse the soft focus. :worried: Btw i reduced my red macro by about 95% and 3 days later the sump has green algae blooming - won't rip it all out like that again. It likes the sump so i'll let it cycle out of existence over time as it's not showing up in the display.

 
I was a little suspicious when the dude who sold me the rocks text me back a few weeks later & asks me how everything is going. Hmmmm, so I held off using the rocks until I got really desperate and frustrated one night. Everything was growing like mad & I had made too many frags and did not have anymore space to place them on.

The effect on the corals was down stream from the rock & they all hit in that one line & stream of water from the MP10. I texted the dude & reamed him out. It turns out he had a huge die off & was just getting rid of the rocks. Who knows what kind of toxic crap was on there. Anyway, I had also used a piece of the rock for frags earlier & I chiseled off a piece of the rock to get rid of some algae and WHAM...I could not believe my eyes!

These rocks are a type of old dead coral skeleton & what was in there was some reddish coral flesh skeleton. I don't know if all the rocks have this flesh in there, but this thing smelled funky. No wonder I started to develop trouble after using some of the rock & once adding a bigger piece it really hit bad. I took a picture of this stuff & I can post here once I get it up. This would be a phosphate & leaching nightmare. No matter how well you kept your tank & using the most expensive hardware could not stop this runaway train.

I did a 25g water change in a 90g total volume & replaced all old carbon & phosban. Still battling cyano for the first time ever in this tank, after this mishap.

When you say "FLUBBER" you refer to the rubbery type of corals, like your red mushroom? I have a feeling there is something to be learned here. Ignore the possibility of too much growth & overtaking a tank. With that in mind, which of these corals would you NOT put in your tank. Forget about personal preference too, just a matter of what might be too toxic & chemical releasing for your SPS's.

1) Xenia
2) GSP & Purple Star Polyps
3) Palys
4) Toadstool
5) Zoas
 
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Excellent as usual biggles, I'm gonna tackle the bloody aefws hardcore now, thanks for the tips :thumbsup:

No I'm not doing any sneaky stuff, more like desperate hanging on to my acro life stuff :p
 
I was a little suspicious when the dude who sold me the rocks text me back a few weeks later & asks me how everything is going. Hmmmm, so I held off using the rocks until I got really desperate and frustrated one night. Everything was growing like mad & I had made too many frags and did not have anymore space to place them on.

The effect on the corals was down stream from the rock & they all hit in that one line & stream of water from the MP10. I texted the dude & reamed him out. It turns out he had a huge die off & was just getting rid of the rocks. Who knows what kind of toxic crap was on there. Anyway, I had also used a piece of the rock for frags earlier & I chiseled off a piece of the rock to get rid of some algae and WHAM...I could not believe my eyes!

These rocks are a type of old dead coral skeleton & what was in there was some reddish coral flesh skeleton. I don't know if all the rocks have this flesh in there, but this thing smelled funky. No wonder I started to develop trouble after using some of the rock & once adding a bigger piece it really hit bad. I took a picture of this stuff & I can post here once I get it up. This would be a phosphate & leaching nightmare. No matter how well you kept your tank & using the most expensive hardware could not stop this runaway train.

I did a 25g water change in a 90g total volume & replaced all old carbon & phosban. Still battling cyano for the first time ever in this tank, after this mishap.

When you say "FLUBBER" you refer to the rubbery type of corals, like your red mushroom? I have a feeling there is something to be learned here. Ignore the possibility of too much growth & overtaking a tank. With that in mind, which of these corals would you NOT put in your tank. Forget about personal preference too, just a matter of what might be too toxic & chemical releasing for your SPS's.

1) Xenia
2) GSP & Purple Star Polyps
3) Palys
4) Toadstool
5) Zoas

It sure sounds like the dead gunk on that new rock was responsible - no more second hand rock purchases please mate, you never know what stupid idiotic treatments another reefer may have used at one time or another so it's not worth the risk imo unless you know and trust the guy selling it. :)
My rock would leach food coloring into your tank for example........:p

Yes by flubber i mean stuff that squishes when you poke it. I joke around a lot about flubber but i really don't mind it ( that's a lie, it's all sh*t).
I haven't kept most stuff on your list but the worst species isn't even on your list - sinularia. I've personally seen one shut down my acros within 48 hours of adding it, like a tank fuller than my current one. Took that out real quick, ran carbon and everything was ok again after a few days. I had a nice 3" fluoro green toadstool once and it didn't bother anything. Xenia will either die and wither or go crazy and ruin your display from seeing friends tanks with it so leave it out. I don't like palys, zoas etc so no experience with them. I had some star polyps once and they won't bother anything, the GSP is a pest like the xenia when it's happy from what i read here.
That's just my take on flubber but i'm very serious about the sinularia being highly toxic so don't go there.

Excellent as usual biggles, I'm gonna tackle the bloody aefws hardcore now, thanks for the tips :thumbsup:

No I'm not doing any sneaky stuff, more like desperate hanging on to my acro life stuff :p

Hi mate, killing day is it :strooper: Brutal efficiency in dealing with any acro pest is what i apply so go hard Bello. Once they're gone you'll see the colors you deserve as you're doing everything else right :thumbsup:


Okay i'm not sure but your link took me to the new space shuttle toilet flushing mechanism, i fail to see how it relates to earth gravity sump conditions........
Whilst that thing looks a beast and is very cheap i think it's way way oversized for your system. Having said that i ran a 3ft high Beckett on my 4x2x2 which would kill that shuttle toilet thing any day of the week. As long as a skimmer removes the crap i,ve never seen the problem with how it does this. My Beckett would go quiet after stripping the water and fire back up when required, it wasn't 'consistent' in skimmate output compared to my Deltec but if there was anything able to be pulled out it would do it.
Skimmers are not the big deal we make them out to be, as long as you get a decent one that pulls crap out you're fine. You generally pay twice the price for 10% more efficiency with skimmers so just get a known mid level priced unit that others have reviewed here positively. I know you know what you're doing so you know what will and won't do the job :)
You must now produce a pic of what ever you buy or we'll slag you here repeatedly - that's the price for advice............:p
 
I had a little think about the algae in the sump and removing nearly all the red macro so i dusted off the Hanna. 0.05 on the first test and 0.04 when i repeated it. Chucked the other bag with 4 tablespoons of Rowaphos back in the sump for now and might leave it there for a month or until the alk draw returns to where it was with happy hungry acros.

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I dragged three different frags up from the dungeon tank to show what a difference real lighting makes as opposed to the useless blue/white only LED unit - i used the xmas tree as a color reference. Even unhappy the display colors sh*t all over anything under blue/white LED's.

The left one is the green monster and you all know how green that thing is normally. Middle is a piece of blue stag if you can believe it lol. Right end is the red table. I'll keep you updated with pics of the transformation they're going to make.
I thought some of you might like to see why using the right lighting is so very important to the health of your SPS and more importantly the enjoyment you ultimately get when looking at your display - sort your lights out if your acros look like my frags :idea:

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I think the yellow tang is wondering if he pooped that middle frag out lol.
 
I had a little think about the algae in the sump and removing nearly all the red macro so i dusted off the Hanna. 0.05 on the first test and 0.04 when i repeated it. Chucked the other bag with 4 tablespoons of Rowaphos back in the sump for now and might leave it there for a month or until the alk draw returns to where it was with happy hungry acros.

phos_zpsa0ec9d41.png~original


I dragged three different frags up from the dungeon tank to show what a difference real lighting makes as opposed to the useless blue/white only LED unit - i used the xmas tree as a color reference. Even unhappy the display colors sh*t all over anything under blue/white LED's.

The left one is the green monster and you all know how green that thing is normally. Middle is a piece of blue stag if you can believe it lol. Right end is the red table. I'll keep you updated with pics of the transformation they're going to make.
I thought some of you might like to see why using the right lighting is so very important to the health of your SPS and more importantly the enjoyment you ultimately get when looking at your display - sort your lights out if your acros look like my frags :idea:

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I think the yellow tang is wondering if he pooped that middle frag out lol.

Biggles, what is your aim in respect of PO4? Keep it around 0.03ppm or even less?

Also, with regards to skimming? Do you like your skimmate light and runny or dry? :lol: Sounds funny...but its a serious question mate. :D

Apologies if you covered this already in the thread mate, I am getting bad migraine headache lately and trying not to concentrate too hard on looking at text on the screen.

Well, I've officially took off my filter socks as well today. I had them on mainly to keep the sump ultra clean.

Its crazy how those frags in the sump under the blue white LED is just proper $h!t looking. Honestly...just goes to show that LIGHTING can make a MASSIVE difference.

The Yellow Tang is thinking: " What are these turdy things doing here?"
 
I need a cold shower before i ramble, just walked in the door at 3.30pm after work and this shows you why i have a big*ss air conditioner pointed at my tank - i set the temp at 20 today and left the halide off in case something went wrong. House got to 25 so all is good but the next 3 days will be similar temps so i'm running the halide now for the last 4 hours while i'm home to monitor things and will do the same for the hot days to come.
This is how i deal with the heat and still run the halide every day. That's in the shade btw, in the sun it's 50.3C lol - no idea why i'm laughing tbh....... i think the heat's got to me.........:hmm4:

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I need a cold shower before i ramble, just walked in the door at 3.30pm after work and this shows you why i have a big*ss air conditioner pointed at my tank - i set the temp at 20 today and left the halide off in case something went wrong. House got to 25 so all is good but the next 3 days will be similar temps so i'm running the halide now for the last 4 hours while i'm home to monitor things and will do the same for the hot days to come.
This is how i deal with the heat and still run the halide every day. That's in the shade btw, in the sun it's 50.3C lol - no idea why i'm laughing tbh....... i think the heat's got to me.........:hmm4:

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No central air??? Or is it one of those individual room ACs.

What does that C mean next to your temperature numbers? Translate that to American!

ROFL I'm just joshing. That is pretty damn warm.
 
^^^ WOW... and I'm not going to lie...

1.) That is HOT!!!! :angryfire:
2.) I am horrible and not used to Celcius because nobody ever uses it here in the US. So I had to look up what your temperature was. LOL

**shakes my head at myself in disappointment**

I've got some family that lives in Phoenix, AZ and they hit temps like that pretty often in the summer. I think about 40.5c is the hottest we've hit at my house. But around SoCal, it all depends where you are. If you drive 15 minutes from my house is summer, it can go up about 20 degrees in some areas.

I see you busted out the Po4 checker. I want one of those pretty badly right now! Unfortunately it, and some other things will probably have to wait until I line up my next contract. But I'm guessing you'll be rambling on about your Po4 levels some since it was requested. And I'll second that, I look forward to hearing about it since I believe I'm battling a bit of a Po4 issue currently (from the looks of my tank anyway).

Well, I'm just wrapping up work for the day and about to hit the commute home. Enjoy the evening and try to stay cool! :lmao:
 
Hey guys, yeah it's bloody hot still 41 at 7pm but 23 in here so who cares........ until tomorrow :facepalm:

When i ramble i just talk out loud so i don't mean to sound like a know it all wanker but i likely come across that way to some, i'm just telling you the way i do it and why but that doesn't mean i know any of it's true - the bit about bello wearing lipstick is however a fact. :smokin:

Today i'm rambling about nutrients etc and not alk and calcium because all you have to do with those is keep them somewhere near NSW levels unless you're using a zeo or other similar reef keeping method in which case your levels might be quite different. Stability in whatever levels you keep with alk, cal and Mg really is important so just work on that and for example if you have alk at 8.0 and calcium wants to stay at 430 even though you keep trying to lower it perhaps it's there because for your water conditions that's balanced so leave it alone unless it's way out of whack to where it should be.

So i see lots of talk about water lately with lots of differing opinions as usual, you'd think we would be a bit better at this by now and able to say to new guys - do this and keep things at this level and Bob's your uncle you'll have a tank full of colorful corals - clearly this isn't the case and bloody LED's are being argued about when we still can't figure out the water bit :crazy1:
Rather than continuing the endless bloody cycle of back and forth about what should be where despite the clear examples of lots of different levels of this and that being present in successful SPS tanks i'll take a new tack - cause i'm a rebel as you know..........

Treat your water like a balancing act in which altering certain things requires consideration as to the the reef as a whole. If you are on a tightrope with a balancing pole and i add 10 pounds to one end of the pole things are out of whack. The obvious thing to do is balance the pole with something that counter balances the 10 pounds - note i didn't say add 10 pounds to the other side because you can add two 5 pound 'things' to offset the 10 pounds and 'balance will be restored. Your nutrients are just like the pole and regardless of increasing the weight on one side such as feeding you will be balanced if you use enough 'weight' in say GFO and skimming to offset it. Obviously it's more complicated than that but this is the aim - to load up the ends of your water balancing pole with as much weight as possible whilst not overloading the reef which is carrying it.
On one side is everything nutritionally valuable to our corals and on the other side is a myriad of ways of counterbalancing the weight of nutrients we are adding daily. The more you add artificially through foods for the fish and corals the more life you don't normally notice is also being fed and lots of these things release all manner of things into your water and the more food the greater micro life population can be sustained and it just goes on and on. I don't use socks because i treat the water like a rich soup of nutritious food constantly circulating throughout my entire water column.

I keep my phos and nitrates at zero on a Hanna but you all know i feed very heavily every day. I use GFO, skimming and high quality live rock to offset fallout from the nutrients going in. I know there are trace levels that i can't detect of phos and nitrates in the water because i have to clean the front glass of a brown dust of algae every 2-3 days. My pumps have a light growth of brown hair algae at all times in the high flow outlet areas only. In any small areas where the stupid big trochus snails can't reach i see small amounts of light green algae. This algae is using phos and nitrates to live but my readings say zero.
The pic below shows you exactly what i mean about the brown color and type of algae i associate with being 'balanced' or in the sweet spot if you like. the same stuff grows on the glass, not the green variety you see in the early months of algae cycles your reef goes through.

algae_zps7b9d11c9.png~original


Now if i wanted to run my phos at say 0.05 all i have to do is up the food until it rises and then add just enough filtration weight to the other side to not remove it but just maintain it. All sorts of factors come into play including your clean up crew numbers, the alk level you run etc but the point is i don't believe there is a easy and foolproof set of readings you can give any reefer unless they understand the importance of balancing the water and how very complicated even a simple Berlin run tank is when it comes to success with corals.
So many frustrated reefers, especially SPS keepers wonder why getting great colors is so hard and whilst the proportion of great displays is higher now than it was years ago it's still pretty ordinary overall considering the money most in the hobby drop trying to achieve a stunning display.
I don't think tanks mature as much as the reefer does in his husbandry techniques and understanding of what is actually going on in his entire mini ecosystem. The exact numbers aren't important as much as realising that you should spend as much time looking at what's crawling around your tank, rocks and sump as you do at your corals. The more you see down low the brighter the colors will be when you look up - all you need to do is balance the pole and what is being carried won't topple. :beer:

That was really long and i'm rambled out - reading back it's not as clear as i wanted and i do indeed come across as a know it all wanker - it's too hot to write imo fifty times........:beer:

Nearly forgot Sahin, i like skimmate about half as dark as coke so a bit like tea i guess. I don't clean the neck for 3-4 weeks and as it gets more gunk lining it the skimmate darkens so it's like an auto adjuster giving you dryer and dryer skimmate. Once i'm not happy with the volume i clean the cup and the whole process begins again. Skimmate collected on the last few days is at least twice as dark as the stuff after cleaning. Atm i get 150ml a day and when it drops to about 100ml or 2/3 it's time to clean - takes 3-4 weeks. How's that for skimmate detail lol.
Good move on dropping the socks mate, a small amount of detritus doesn't cause any problems whatsoever as i've always been a lazy dirty reefer so concentrate on the bloody display rather than some picture perfect sump. You won't care what it looks like soon because you'll be too busy looking at your colors with a dopey grin on your face.
I'm sorry to hear about the migraines mate :( I had a friend who got them and she had to be driven home as she couldn't see and vomited with the pain so i know how bad they are. I won't stop being your friend like i did with her because i don't have to drive you home and you'll never vomit in my car........... :p Hope you feel better soon mate.
 
No wonder your LED white/blue ONLY LED corals looks like crap. Because for SPS's they are crap from what I hear from others. Softies, zoas, flubber & such they are ok for my surprise & other local reefers experience.

Bro, I am running a 29g experimental tank with MULTI SPECTRUM LED's & did a 6+ week update on the flubber I have going on in there. I do have a few SPS's & I will be adding in more & more SPS's from my main tank along the way. I will make youtube videos of all as things either progress or die out.

Here is my first update to this LED experiment.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22279474#post22279474
 
No wonder your LED white/blue ONLY LED corals looks like crap. Because for SPS's they are crap from what I hear from others. Softies, zoas, flubber & such they are ok for my surprise & other local reefers experience.

Bro, I am running a 29g experimental tank with MULTI SPECTRUM LED's & did a 6+ week update on the flubber I have going on in there. I do have a few SPS's & I will be adding in more & more SPS's from my main tank along the way. I will make youtube videos of all as things either progress or die out.

Here is my first update to this LED experiment.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=22279474#post22279474

Nice experiment mate, following that one. :beer:

Yes i've kinda worked out the blue/white LED unit is a piece of useless crap for SPS health and colors...... i need to get another halide reflector so i can bin it and run one of the two 6 month old 250W Radium bulbs i have wasting space now over the sump tank. I'll run each one for another 3 months each and buy a new one after that if i like what i see ( i will ) :smokin:
 
What does that C mean next to your temperature numbers? Translate that to American!
You bloomin Americans with your Fahrenheit scale...:facepalm:

Anyway, you guys have no idea why Biggles is telling us about the HOT weather..."Its getting HOT in here...so take off all your clothes...." Bello and Biggles are into nude reefkeeping... :lol: I think Biggles is trying to slowly get the rest of us into that style of reefkeeping...:lolspin: I'm not sure who started this trend...Bello or Biggles...:p

I'm sorry Sahin, but when I saw this pic on the thread I lol'd. :D
I know dude, that things is shocking. :facepalm: I once went to my LFS to take photos of the corals...some dude looked at me funny and asked me what that cup thing attached to my Nikon DSLR was... :facepalm:

On other news...

Thank you Biggles for lecture regarding the PO4 and skimmate. :thumbsup:

I'm going on a road trip with a couple of buddy's visiting a few LFS soon...I think I will pickup a bit of nice Liverock to stick in my sump. I want to create that low flow rock area. That is a nice idea. It reminds of Steve Tyree's Cryptic Zonal Filtration.

You know something Biggles, the more I learn about your tank, the more I realise that its got some very useful little bits, that together makes a difference to the system as a whole. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks Matt :)

Got up at 7am and it's 30 already Sahin............... i'm going in to work with just a mankini on today.......

Some acros very close to the bottom in low light, thought for the bloody stinking hot day - spectrum is way more important than intensity........

bot_zps2e8b11a1.png~original
 
You bloomin Americans with your Fahrenheit scale...:facepalm:

Anyway, you guys have no idea why Biggles is telling us about the HOT weather..."Its getting HOT in here...so take off all your clothes...." Bello and Biggles are into nude reefkeeping... :lol: I think Biggles is trying to slowly get the rest of us into that style of reefkeeping...:lolspin: I'm not sure who started this trend...Bello or Biggles...:p


I died when I read this. ROFL
 
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