I thought my socks in the pic would make for great conversation lol.
Half my acros are either fluoro tipped, all fluoro or fluoro polyped so it does look a tad intense when i have just the blue LED bar and a single ATI actinic on Sahin
I reproduced very similar intense pigmentation and colors using 2 x 250W 10.000K AB bulbs years ago, i actually switched to Radiums because the AB's were $250- per bulb and the Radiums were about $80- at the time. I actually read up on the Radiums here on RC nearly ten years ago when all the big SPS guys were running nothing but Radiums.
The Radiums blue/white spectrum was much nicer to my eye so i have stuck with them ever since.
If i has a spare grand i'd buy a Radion because i've seen them running in person over acros and i already know i could get pretty close to the Radium produced colors with one. I have a couple of pieces from that tank and i would have to say the colors have only improved by about 20% to my eye.
I'm pretty confident i could give you a red hot spectral plot to run Radions at after 3 months over my sump reef tweaking the Radion to produce similar pigments to those in the display above with the same acros.
I'm never going to have that grand spare with the new tanks i'm planning so your question will never be answered unfortunately Sahin.
I have my water where i want it without GFO but i will have a minimum of 4 sqr ft of DSB in the 5x2 sump so it never becomes an issue again. I can bottom nitrates easily with my LR but the lack of a DSB is the only big difference now between this tank and my previous ones. I have slow growth atm because the glass gets a noticeable algae haze in 8-10 hours. I roughly clean the main panel areas after lights out and the acros have a full on PE feeding reaction for an hour or so after. I do the bits near the sand when the lights are on so i don't scratch stuff. I knock about 100 baby snails off the glass every night doing this, it literally rains snails lol.
In my DSB tanks i had undetectable nitrates prob because i had 160lbs of LR in the 4x2x2's but the glass required cleaning every 2-3 days when my water was red hot. It's growing there at least 4 times faster than i want it atm so i can only see that the lack of a DSB is what's really holding me back.
I've seen what you can do with colors Sahin, you have nothing to bang your head over mate, won't be long before you have your reef crackalackin my friend.
I dunno about coming to the UK Discuss, you'd all be laughing at my accent and i'd be wondering what the hell any of you were bloody saying. I worked with a guy once who was from Yorkshire. After about an hour i told him to just shut the you know what up because no one had the slightest clue what he was saying 99% of the time. He was going to buy lunch and he asked me ' want owt ' - 'what' says i - ' goin upt shop want owt ' - apparently owt means anything........... i have no idea how he goes at a Maccas or KFC drive through, can you imagine the poor kid on the microphone. :fun5:
I refuse to ever work with anyone from Yorkshire again because they don't actually know that they can't speak english even though ' what ' must be the most common response they hear for years after moving here where we speak understandable english. :spin3:
Are you near Yorkshire Discuss.........
This is what color any of the 'icefire' blue and white acros really are that we all keep. Nowhere as blue as when under our artificial lighting. You see the slight taper on all the tip ends, that's why i ID'd it as a speciosa not an echi and it grows very sparsely compared to the denser packed echi growth. No idea if i'm correct but i'm pretty confident.
Here's a frag of the crazy blue acro on the cement, you can see how intense the pigments are all over except for the bits that were facing down where it was stuck. It is blue in differing shades from tip to encrusting base so it's going to feature heavily in the peninsula.