goslugsgo
New member
During the calcium reactor DIY a few people asked about the canopy that I built, so I thought I'd post it with pics so it's a bit easier to understand.
Please note that I don't have any post-junior high woodshop training other than leafing through a few books, so don't expect proper terminology, etc.
My primary design parameters included structural integrity (obviously) and light weight due to the manner in which the whole canopy will hinge upward, lighting and all. Because of the weight limitations, I tried to use the least amount of material possible, while capitalizing on joints that would maximize integrity.
Enough of the blah, blah, blah...here's the pics:
Every design should have a schematic, so I drew out a three-demensional rendering right on my workbench for easy reference:
Obviously, this doesn't detail the plan completely, but it gives me an idea of what I want to do with each piece of material.
Now, in my head I've got the length and width of the tank, so all I have to do to start is look at my drawing and cut 4 of pieces 36" (the length) and 6 pieces 24" (the width) to make the top and bottom frame of the "box."
Seen here, with some of the joinery routed:
The lower part of this box will support the glass for the Lumenarc, so it must be above the tank ~10", thus making the legs that extend down to rest on the tank 10" plus the height of the Lum. I omitted the legs on one side because the hinging action will render them fairly useless. Confusing, I know, but after you see the pics I think you'll get it.
All of the pieces here are notched or lapped or dadoed or whatever such the the pieces will fit together and provide the greatest amount of surface contact and, thus, greatest strength.
When deciding what joints to put where, I first thought of how the weight is going to be distributed as the canopy is opened. For example, I positioned the long pieces such that they go under the short (and primary weight-bearing) pieces, because it is they that will be pulled upward upon opening, not the short pieces.
Sadly, I really can't recreate for you how I put together which pieces get notched where and how in the pic above, because it was just all in my brain.
At the CR DIY I was asked if I could do a canopy DIY but as you can see, the plans are pretty project-specific. If you'd like to brainstorm or get some ideas and support let me know.
Anyway, after glue-up the canopy looked like this:
You can see that two of the legs are shorter, as they will be supported by the stand.
The glass sits in a trough that was routed to provide easy removal for cleaning, seen here:
Oh, you may have noticed the two transverse pieces in the middle of the upper part of the structure. These are measured to the length between the mounting holes in the Lumenarc reflector. Makes more sense here:
The canopy is then sheeted in 1/4" birch ply to match our snappy Ikea Poang chairs:
half
whole
It is then painted with Kilz on the inside:
Oh, huge point: the stand is a "room divider" design, whereas one can view the tank from three sides. See the upper box of the stand where there's a notch above and below? Well, that's where the canopy part closest to you in the picture is going and will hinge up (with counterweights, of course) to provide full access to the tank.
If you are confused, it is probably due to my presentation. Please ask questions if there is something you don't understand.
Chris
Oh, and get an air compressor and nail guns. Never has so much fun been had with something that can put an eye out. Makes this infinitely more simple. Can you imagine all the clamping on that? $#@%ing nightmare.
Please note that I don't have any post-junior high woodshop training other than leafing through a few books, so don't expect proper terminology, etc.
My primary design parameters included structural integrity (obviously) and light weight due to the manner in which the whole canopy will hinge upward, lighting and all. Because of the weight limitations, I tried to use the least amount of material possible, while capitalizing on joints that would maximize integrity.
Enough of the blah, blah, blah...here's the pics:
Every design should have a schematic, so I drew out a three-demensional rendering right on my workbench for easy reference:
Obviously, this doesn't detail the plan completely, but it gives me an idea of what I want to do with each piece of material.
Now, in my head I've got the length and width of the tank, so all I have to do to start is look at my drawing and cut 4 of pieces 36" (the length) and 6 pieces 24" (the width) to make the top and bottom frame of the "box."
Seen here, with some of the joinery routed:
The lower part of this box will support the glass for the Lumenarc, so it must be above the tank ~10", thus making the legs that extend down to rest on the tank 10" plus the height of the Lum. I omitted the legs on one side because the hinging action will render them fairly useless. Confusing, I know, but after you see the pics I think you'll get it.
All of the pieces here are notched or lapped or dadoed or whatever such the the pieces will fit together and provide the greatest amount of surface contact and, thus, greatest strength.
When deciding what joints to put where, I first thought of how the weight is going to be distributed as the canopy is opened. For example, I positioned the long pieces such that they go under the short (and primary weight-bearing) pieces, because it is they that will be pulled upward upon opening, not the short pieces.
Sadly, I really can't recreate for you how I put together which pieces get notched where and how in the pic above, because it was just all in my brain.
At the CR DIY I was asked if I could do a canopy DIY but as you can see, the plans are pretty project-specific. If you'd like to brainstorm or get some ideas and support let me know.
Anyway, after glue-up the canopy looked like this:
You can see that two of the legs are shorter, as they will be supported by the stand.
The glass sits in a trough that was routed to provide easy removal for cleaning, seen here:
Oh, you may have noticed the two transverse pieces in the middle of the upper part of the structure. These are measured to the length between the mounting holes in the Lumenarc reflector. Makes more sense here:
The canopy is then sheeted in 1/4" birch ply to match our snappy Ikea Poang chairs:
half
whole
It is then painted with Kilz on the inside:
Oh, huge point: the stand is a "room divider" design, whereas one can view the tank from three sides. See the upper box of the stand where there's a notch above and below? Well, that's where the canopy part closest to you in the picture is going and will hinge up (with counterweights, of course) to provide full access to the tank.
If you are confused, it is probably due to my presentation. Please ask questions if there is something you don't understand.
Chris
Oh, and get an air compressor and nail guns. Never has so much fun been had with something that can put an eye out. Makes this infinitely more simple. Can you imagine all the clamping on that? $#@%ing nightmare.
