My Chiller Setup **Lots of pictures**

Re: 65 degrees

Re: 65 degrees

njsunken said:

PS-Most residential system, including window unit, are not designed to run below 59-64 degrees without any low ambient kit. 65 degrees is the safe point.

I have been looking through John Tomczyk's book on troubleshooting and servicing, and have not found anything that specifically refers to this.

I think the problem will be that the superheat increases as the ambient condensor air temp decreases. This results in less heat removing capacity.(This is smplified somewhat).

I would tend to belive that after the ambient temp gets lower than a certain value, the compressor cycle times will increase untill it is on 100% of the time and can no longer keep up with the load.(I would think that my load will be almost 100% constant). I am always lowering the same amount of water the same # of degrees(1). Excluding ambient rooom temp.

Is this correct?

My room temp in the winter will be lower than it is in the summer, so the load will actually decrease when the heat removing capacity of the system is decreasing.

Could something as simple as a thermostat on the condensor fan help with this side effect? Or will it need the liquid pressure to work?

I am always wondering how close this relates to air conditioning systems that cool the air. I would think that with the way our evaporators are sized and the heat transfer advantages that water has over air, there would be some differences that are not adeqately covered in the text that I have to reference.

Is this why my suction line temps are in the low 60's to achive a SH of around 6? My heat pump is running a SH of 14 with a suction line temp of 54. I am thinking that the air does not transfer as much heat the refrigerant. Therefore, it is cooler when it exits the evaporator.

Same ambient conditions same r-22 refrigerant. When it was installed, we did not adjust the factory charge. Probably undercharged a little.

Or, is my suction line undersized? I would then to think not, as my suction pressure is around 94 right now. Undersized would have the same effect as a restriction right? :confused:

I hope I have not taken this thread in an unwanted direction with all the technical mumbo-jumbo about refrigeration/air conditioning systems. If I have, I opologize, but I do want to continue learning. :D
 
A good book for you

A good book for you

Refrigeration-Air conditioning Technology 2nd edition by william C Whitman William M Johnson. I hope this will help you. RGibson
 
ok in cold conditions to keep a compressor from filling with liquid you would use a heater to keep the compressor warm and the refrigerant in a vapor state.
What I believe and was taught is that the greater the temperature difference between 2 anything's the faster the rate of heat transfer. this is why if you have 70F air and a 50F coil your transfer rate will be greater than the same air temp and a 60F coil. Therefore if it gets colder outside how is it possible to lose effieciency? unless of course your suction temp drops below 32F and it forms a layer of ice on the coil slowing down the transfer rate.
Stranglehold you are probably overcharged just a hair now and your water flow seems a little high. Try to back off the water flow a little bit and recover a little refrigerant to try to get your suction pressure somewhere between 75-80 while maintaining superheat.
The book recommended by rgibson is a good one I have also.
A fan cycle control is much more simple than a t-stat by the way.
thanks njsunken if you look way back in this thread I recommended first a fan cycle control and someone else was talking tonytooth into something else ;)
 
I guess I got tunnel vision. Thanks to robthorn for reminiding me about the water flow. Cut that back and the section temp droppped and it was obviously overcharged slightly. Got to do a little re-plumbing for a permanant fix, and then I should have it.

If anybody is interested in the book rgibson suggested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3529773138&category=2228&rd=1
This is about $20 less than amazon.

Or the 1988 version for real cheap.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3531895963&category=29303&rd=1

I like the looks of the newer one myself
 
Hey rgibson, Tonytooth, anyone else that knows what they are talking about.

I woudl like for some one to tell me what I need to buy for my 1100 so that I can just go and purchase it.

I will install it but I promise I will have a buddy charge it and all of that good stuff.
 
reef man I would say at least 1 ton maybe even 1 1/2 ton. 1600 - 2500 gallon pump just a guess use a ball valve on the pump if you need to back off a bit.
 
Miko

Miko

What is the tem of the room you are going to keep tank in,this is the first thing to start in to size a chiller. RGibson
 
OK currently the tank hovers around 78-79 with out a chiller and the ambient temp in the room is about 70-75 (if they closed the french doors).

I will be adding 2 more 400W mh bulbs which is my worry.
 
Your still fine on teperature. The average temp here on RC is 81. Sounds to me like your doing fine without one. I would add the lights and see what happens.
 
Fans

Fans

Miko-How you place your fans over tank will make a big different in tank tem and can save you from buying a chiller. RGibson
 
Hehehehehe

What I forgot to add was that I have a vent supply and return going to the top of the tank where the light are.

With the vent closed temps in the hood get to 120-130
 
AC isn't DIY

AC isn't DIY

It's interesting to read about this project but, good grief folks, AC is not DIY. If you don't have first hand experience with AC do not even think about trying this. :eek1: You need equipment to evacuate the air from the line set and coil and then to recharge the line set. You also should know how to braze. Read the thread for the educational value, then buy a chiller or get central air.

The other problem is this type of 'chiller' can't be moved when you move to a new place.
 
Re: AC isn't DIY

Re: AC isn't DIY

jackel55 said:
It's interesting to read about this project but, good grief folks, AC is not DIY. If you don't have first hand experience with AC do not even think about trying this. :eek1: You need equipment to evacuate the air from the line set and coil and then to recharge the line set. You also should know how to braze. Read the thread for the educational value, then buy a chiller or get central air.

The other problem is this type of 'chiller' can't be moved when you move to a new place.

Good points. And I agree that this is out of reach for the majority of people. But with this information AND a certified professional, somebody could end up with the ultimate chiller setup IMO.

As far as moving it. Sure it can be relocated. Just recover the refrigerant and cut the lines. Reinstall at the new location and charg it up. Bingo!
 
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