My Chiller Setup **Lots of pictures**

I chose not to use the thermowell in the barrel for a couple of reasons.

1. The well is not a standard thermowell. It appears to be a section of the same titanium tube with one end capped off. Therefore it would be a "custom".

2. Locating the temp probe in-line just ahead of the barrel gives a true reading of the water temp. The temp well in the barrel would give a reading of the internal temp of the chiller. This would be a mixture of chilled and unchilled water.

I have another fitting at the output of the barrel where I will be able to check the temp drop of the water.

I set mine up to drain if the pump stops. Therefore, there will be no chance of a freeze up.

Hope to have it functional by Wednsday.

Question for the AC guys.
My AC unit says it holds 7.05 oz of R-22. I am adding 12' of 1/4" pressure and 3/8" suction and was wondering...

How much additional freon should I expect it to take?

I will probably start with an additional 1 oz. I am also going to incorporate a low pressure switch to protect the compressor. This setup will have a greater potential for leaks - given the two threaded fittings.
 
there is a major secret needed to seal those threaded fittings.
solder the copper to brass flare nuts then solder the nut to a brass threaded union using 45% blue rod. then you have to by copper flare nut washers. these act as a gasket. all should be available from a local refrigeration or plumbing supply house. I think its all 1/2 inch pipe thread . you will need to use large adjustable wrenchs or even pipe wrenches if needed . you can make it stop leaking I charge it and check it with soap bubbles and then a sniffer.
 
you will probably need close to 2 pounds of refrigerant. I never weigh it I charge to superheat as long as you have the right water flow this will work. you have changed everything by adding more copper and a larger coil. I think it might be close to an ounce per foot. you have to remember one line will be liquid using more than the larger line which will be a gas.
 
robthorn said:
there is a major secret needed to seal those threaded fittings.
solder the copper to brass flare nuts then solder the nut to a brass threaded union using 45% blue rod. then you have to by copper flare nut washers. these act as a gasket. all should be available from a local refrigeration or plumbing supply house. I think its all 1/2 inch pipe thread . you will need to use large adjustable wrenchs or even pipe wrenches if needed . you can make it stop leaking I charge it and check it with soap bubbles and then a sniffer.
Click to expand...

I was sent a unit with brass plugs installed in the flare fittings on the titainum tube.

I was planning on drilling these out to fit the copper tube and then soldering the tube into these included plugs.

This will leave only one threaded/flare fitting, per side, to be concerned about.

The sealing surface will be titanium against brass. Wouldn't the brass conform to the titanium and seal?

Are you saying that it will take a gasket in there somehow?

robthorn said:
you will probably need close to 2 pounds of refrigerant. I never weigh it I charge to superheat as long as you have the right water flow this will work. you have changed everything by adding more copper and a larger coil. I think it might be close to an ounce per foot. you have to remember one line will be liquid using more than the larger line which will be a gas.
Click to expand...

I was trying to get a good estemate to start with to save a little time "inching up" to the required charge.

Water flow will be around 1000 gph so that should not be a problem getting a good reading on the outlet right?.

Is there any difference in the superheat method when cooling liquid rather than air?

Air IS a liquid so there probably is no difference.

Thanks
 
The brass to titanium will give you a seal problem, we tried it. Didn't you get the little copper washers with your chiller barrel? They should have been between the plug and the titanium flare. You must use those to get a good seal. These work better because the copper is softer than brass or titanium. You can buy them if you didn't get any with the coil.

We only use one flare fitting per side. You can get a male fitting that you won't need to drill. It is possible that you could drill what you have but why not get a better alternative. I believe we got those at the plumbing supply. I am thinking that if you use those plugs, you won't have as much to solder to and may have problems. Maybe Rob has an extra one of these fittings laying around that I could post a picture of for you to see.
 
Last edited:
stranglehold said:
Air IS a liquid so there probably is no difference.

Thanks
Click to expand...

no, air is a fluid. liquid is a fluid also. they both have different densities and therefore take up different volumes for the same amount of mass.
 
I will stop today and see if I can get some copper washers.

Are you saying the thickness of the end of the brass plug is too thin to get enough surface area?

I could turn the plug up on end with the copper in it and "fill up" the area around the tubing. This should provide plenty of surface area.
 
electric130 said:
no, air is a fluid. liquid is a fluid also. they both have different densities and therefore take up different volumes for the same amount of mass.
Click to expand...

I stand corrected.
 
I didn't say you couldn't do it that way but I would recomend you try and find this fitting that we used. The plug may work just fine but be sure and use the copper washers for a good seal.

Didn't you get any with the heat exchanger?
 
I really want to make one of these, but I'm affraid I won't be able to finish it. I have absolutely no knowledge of AC. I can do the plumbing, and I'm sure I could figure out the electrical end of it. I'm just worried about damaging something while messing with the refrigerant.

Anyone know what the BTU's on a 4 c.f. refrigerator is? could i use the compressor etc on this somehow?
 
You would be better to buy a window AC Lowes as them for about $95.00. You well see how it was done on my chiller setup. This is the best way to go. A community college if you have one near you chech the AC dept thay should be of some help. RGibson
 
As I mentioned before, I am not using the included thermowell. I removed it and installed a pvc plug.

For anybody that cares, here is a pic of the interior end of the thermowell.
 
Stopped by a HVAC supplier and tried to find the copper washers. They only had some ver small ones.

Went to the autoparts store and got some washers for brake line fittings.


Here is the work in progress.
 
electric130 if you don't have the knowledge or tools I wouldn't suggest you trying it actually the tools required alone would be much more than paying someone to do the refrigeration. You need a vacuum pump no remove non-condensables,torches and your looking at $600 right there alone. Not trying to say it can't be done but the trouble you might have trying to do it just wouldn't be worth it to me. You have to see local a/c vans driving around . When you see someone that looks worthy of the trust needed to enter your home pull up and talk to them . Most of them like side work.
 
Hey Strangle,
Is this the plug that came with the coil or did you get another fitting?
attachment.php
 
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