My DIY Led light... dive in! experience, knowledge and inputswelcome

celamb89

New member
Hi everyone,

So after reading tons and tons I decided the time to change my 6x54w t5 fixture was right... the time of year to chage the bulbs already passed so I want to get this one going!

From the led results and reference thread Ill post some info regarding my build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1718642

1) What are the dimensions and volume of your tank?
1.4m x .6m x .6m (55in x 23in x 23in) aprox 500L

2) What type of photosynthetic life are you keeping?

SPS, one Maxima clam, LPS, softies...

3) If this was an existing tank, what lighting did you have before the LED rig?
6x54 T5, good growth but changing bulbs and electricity is a lot of money

4) Describe your LED rig:
a) Model, bin, color, and number of LEDs:

36 XTE Royal Blue @ 700mA and 60 degree lenses
12 XPE Blue @700mA and 60 degree lenses
24 XPG CWhite @900mA and 60 degree lenses
12 XPG NWhite @900mA and 60 degree lenses
6 XML Cyan @350mA
4 RapidLed UV @350mA
2 XPE Red @350mA
2 XPE Green @350mA

b) Spacing or arrangement over the tank:

5 one inch c channels, 40inches long and with 1/2 inche spacing between them... LEDs are spaced 2 inches apart

c) Current you are driving them at:
d) Model of driver you are using:
Using 1 ELN6048P to run the cyan, green, red and uv
2x HLG185H42B to run whites and blues respectively

e) Heatsink, fans, or other cooling:
as stated before, 5 one inch c channels and 3x 12v 80mm computer fans they run @2000RPM with noise @20dB

f) Dimming or other control:
arduino DIY, still working on the code but using the arduino for tests right now...

5) Where did you buy your parts from? Are you happy with these vendors?

RapidLed and Cutter... both good vendors



Here is the first render of how it should look with 60 degree optics
render60degrees.jpg


Started building and here are some pics:

Front
IMG_1374.jpg


Back
IMG_1375.jpg


it is held by a 2"x2" angle that will help hold the fans and force air to be extracted from the bottom thus creating a greater current through the leds

IMG_1376.jpg


single LED
IMG_1377.jpg



TESTING!!

I have been testing single strings with the ELN6048P, after following the advice from Kcress and testing every single LED with my DMM I fire the string up with the smaller driver just for testing...

IMG_1379.jpg





My problem comes that while running the LED string they start to get pretty hot to the touch and the c channels dont, which would mean the thermal paste isnt applied correctly or not doing its job, im using ceramic thermal compound by arctic, which should be good... is this normal? will the heat transfer start after a couple of minutes? I always turn them off so i wont fry them :hmm5:

Any input is welcome! Thanks! :)
 
Not 100% sure, but ceramic is an insulator it will prevent heat from transfering to the heatsink. It's what keeps the astronauts alive in the space shuttle.
 
well if the stars are getting noticably hotter than a cold heatsink within a minut or two then yes there seems to be an issue with the thermal interface between the star chip and the heatsink. I run a number of Chanel lights similar to what you describe some with 30 leds on a 4' 1" channel and the whole thing stays cold after starting up for quite a while, It takes over 5 minutes with the fans off to notice it getting warm.

It looks ok from the picture unless the LEds are just not screwed down all the way? It only takes a very tiny amount of thermal paste to do the trick. keep checking the edge of the stars with your finger, careful not to touch the diode or solder pads Lest you get a little shock or damage the LED. If you cant hold your finger on it for more than 20 seconds it likely has an issue somewhere.

Keep in mind that Cree LEDs can run safely at temperatures that will still burn you!

Not to critisise your soldering, a lot of mine are pretty ugly, but just want to point out that the bottom connection in the close up looks dangerously close to having a bare wire touch the edge of the star chip......
 
Not 100% sure, but ceramic is an insulator it will prevent heat from transfering to the heatsink. It's what keeps the astronauts alive in the space shuttle.

pretty sure he means "Ceramique" the brand of thermal past manufacured by Arctic Silver. Same stuff I use. and about the best you can buy for a reasonable price.
 
i just used the thermal grease from rapid and have had great luck with it. i have 24 leds in a biocube so ya know its inclosed and i dont have any heat probs at all.
 
I think I was just putting my finger on top of the led which get hot... The edge of the star just gets warm no problem keeping my finger on it, I'm still going to install the fans just in case I need them... BTW I did mean ceramique the thermal compound, sorry for the misspell...

I know I have had a couple of solder problems but testing every single led afterwards for shorts has saved me... I'll give a double check just to make sure nothing happens when humidity is around (ie over the tank).

Thanks for all the input! Really helps! I can't wait I have it running, hopefully it will be up by next week... I'm going to take before and after pics is corals to compare color specially but also growth... I have mostly SPS and LPS so it should be interesting...
 
Array

Array

Here is the array... I centered the colored leds because they I wanted to distribute their light hence they are only a few and will be running without lenses...

arraypic.png


what do u guys think?

Total leds>


36 RB ... 3x12 led strings all blues on one HLG18542 @730mA
12 B 1 string
24 CW 2 strings all whites on one HLG18542 @900mA to 1A
12 NW 1 string
6 Cyan all below in one single 14 led string running on 48v @350mA
2 Green
2 Red
4 UV

98 TOTAL
 
Does anyone know what glue I can use to attach the optics... From what I've read everybody uses thermal adhesive but I can't find any in Mexico (current location). Mike from rapidled was very nice and sent some but it was retained in customs and it's being sent back.

I was thinking on using something like UHU plastic adhesive? Or some hot glue gun silicone? Any ideas or experiences?

Thanks!
 
Ok great! Thanks! I'm gonna look at other options and see which one is easier, I like epoxy but don't like that it dries up, we'll see.

Ill try to finish soldering the LEDs tomorrow and start testing with the drivers and arduino...
Can't wait to have them hanging and running!
 
just finished soldering and testing all the LEDs... I fired them up, the white strings did not need to be balanced they were within 15mA of each other... the blue ones however did require two swaps and are now within 30mA of each other Im just going to leave them like this...

here are some pics.. my phone died by the time I hooked up all of the LEDs at the same time so I only took pics of blues and whites apart...

photo4.jpg


photo3.jpg


photo2.jpg


photo1.jpg
 
Im going to try and put in all of the optics tomorrow, install the fans and start with the PCB for arduino and the drivers...

Hopefully it will be up by next week!
 
Thanks the help reef scene! I went for the hot glue gun way, it was ready to go just had to get some silicone tubes, I didn't want to wait for the shipping and all...

I got all the optics in and ready, I also placed the resistors and fuses block as well as th fans, everything was fired up as ready to go... Tomorrow I'll post some pics, I'm going to try and finish up tomorrow... I just need to hang it and finish the arduino code along with soldering the pcb for the 12v to 10v conversion and transistors for te 10v PWM.
 
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