My home circuit trips with new setup.

The age of the house really has nothing to do with the problem you are having, nor does the fact that "others" are running "more". You are pulling around 14.5 AMPS on a 15A circuit. Again, no magic here, it's a simple fact of ohms law and the stuff you have plugged in.

Regarding the UPS. Yes the UPS will draw a few extra watts (maybe a hundred or so) due to it's charging and control circuitry and innefficiency. If the UPS has AVR (or any kind of BUCK BOOST) voltage regulation.. .then it will draw A LOT more current to keep the voltage constant. In your case, your line voltage on your tanks circuit is likely heavily sagging anyway. This will cause the UPS to try boost the voltage and in turn cause it to draw more current, tripping the breaker. There are several types of UPS topoligies and yours is likely a "line interactive" ups with or without "buck boost". It is likely not an "online" ups.

Secondly if the UPS is not a TRUE SINE WAVE unit, then it will not work with your pumps or any other motor. You will either ruin the pump and/or UPS and possibly burn down your house. My bets are that the UPS is not a true sine wave unit, as most <$500 UPS put out a square wave or modified step wave.

Bean
 
Kinda helps when UPS systems are part of your livelihood.

Just looked a similar situation at an ADELPHIA cable headend today. 3kVa UPS with a 18 AMP load (30A circuit) is going into overload protection due to an air conditioner causing a huge voltage sag on the line. UPS trys to compensate by using a step up transformer and in turn draws even more current from the line, causing an ever further voltage sag. Parasitic cycle to say the least. Within about 8 Seconds the UPS smokes or drops out and the fiber amps die. So feel at least glad your not the only one in the same boat :)
 
Bean is right on (as usual). The simple ohms law (E=I*R) is not very revelant here, we're talking AC not DC. There are many other factor with AC loads that need to be factored. Inductive loads, in-rush current, ampacity... blah, blah, blah.

On the other hand, we quoted some manufacturing assistance to these guys . Very promising, stay tagged to their web, I swear you can't see the wire if you can half-a** tape and spackle.

Works for audio and video right now.
 
Yup.. was just using ohms law to illustrate the basic principle :) and assuming 115V with a resistive load.

I get accused of being wrong a lot too :)

I have played with that stuff a few times over the last 2 years. Still have a small bag full of samples. Funny, the first time I saw this stuff, it was being sold for low voltage dollhouse lighting (much smaller strips) back in the 80's.

In any case I ran into these guys at CEDIA and was rather impressed with their large range or applications accessories and demonstration booth. Not as impressed with the price.... I was told then that they were seeking aproval for mains voltage applications. I hav enot heard anything in a few months.

Bean
 
Hehe I would also add, that there is no way these guys are going to get a flat cable to pass the Cat5e or Cat6 standard (Cat6 esp). At those frequencies, the signal rides the insulation, not the copper. The "twists" in the twisted pair are very important in regards to the noise, as is the lenth of each wire in the pair. It's hard enough to get high quality cat6 cable to pass a sweep test in the real world...

Stick with the flat speaker wire and power wire and your golden....Maybe even teh svid or composite... not sure about flat DVI :)

Bean
 
Easy Bean, just talkin 120 AC here. No matter what the guy still needs another GFI circuit added. This material allows a consumer to string a wire on the wall rather than behind it. Just trying to add a solution to a problem, its my job. Cat cable, high speed digital, or high freq (20Khz is not high freq) does not apply with this stuff. We did not bid on the product, too simple to build - read 3rd world competitive.
 
I do like the product and the people behind it were very nice also. I am patiently waiting for the aproval for the 120V stuff as well. It's a perfect fit for somebody in the OP's situation.

easttn, I am glad you mentioned GFI, as nobody has yet to do so! I surely hope the OP is using GFI now and cosiders using it on the new circuit.

Another option is to use baseboard that has a wire cavity in it. There are several manufactures that make a product that will work.

Yet another option is to remove the baseboard and cut a slit in the sheetrock, allowing you to drill the studs and fish the wire around the perimeter of the room.

Wire mold (surface mount conduit) is not too unsightly and can be done in such a way that it could be removed if the house is sold.

Depending on the location of the service panel and the fish tank, don't count out the possibility of an electrician fishing a wire without damage to the finished walls (or at least very minimal).

As somebody else mentioned, it is very possible to run conduit along the outside (or under the landscaping) of your house. You could even use direct burial romex cable. The cable would then come in through a small hole in the wall where it would be connected to a standard recepticle.

Any of the methods (or a combination of the methods and products) may be viable options for getting power to your tank.


As a side note:
I apologize for straying from the topic:

Sorry if I sounded uneasy... was kinda just rambling on with regards to the vendors other products instead of staying on topic. (Cat6 must past a minimum test of 250Mhz and cat 5E must pass 100Mhz). I end up fighting with subs who don't handle the cat6 correctly, or products labeld as "cat5e or cat6" that don't even come close to the spec. This causes an entire channel or series of channels to have to be re-pulled and reterminated. Sadly the issue has become one of my hot buttons lately.

Have a nice evening.
 
I think the best thing to do is just take a long extension cord... You know the orange ones that's like as big as your arm lol, run it from another circuit across the room and hide it under carpets as good as possible paint it the same color as the wall and call it a day.
 
Dannie you can do that if you like. You will want to use a #12 extension cord. However if you do have another circuit in that room, I would consider extending it with surface mount conduit along (or on) the baseboard, or using any of the other methods described above. You may be able to get it between the carpet tack strip and the wall, just don't let it get pinched on the tack strip.

If however you can live with the extension cord, then go for it.

You make your own cord using a right angle plug on one end and a metal (or water tight plastic) gang box on the other. You will add an outlet faceplate to the gang box. There are several types of wire that you can use to do this, any of the wire types that start with SOO or SOOJ should be ok. HD and LOWES carry them in yellows oranges and blacks (depending on the store). Your local electric supply house can get just about any color you want.

If you don't know how to assemble a custom cord, find a friend who does. Hubbell makes a wide range of very high quality plugs.

Bean
 
In regards to what doug is saying, and to clarify...

It is not a good idea or safe to run a cord under carpet. Around the baseboard under the edge of the carpet is doable, again be very aware of the carpet tack strips and stay to the outside of them. NEVER cross a room or hallway with wire under the carpet. If you must cross, do it at a doorway and use a hollow threshold designed to hold wires, then continue along the basebaord.

Bean
 
What size breaker is it? The 5th post assumed it was 15 amps and everyone ran with it from there. Is it 15 or 20?
 
More than likely 15. You don't see #12 branch circuits in residential wiring, unless the home owner put them in, or requested them to be put in. Electricians don't like to use it because it is stiff and hard to terminiate. Homeowners don't like to pay the extra copper cost. I just re-wired my entire house and there is not a piece of #14 anyplace.

Bean
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6608718#post6608718 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MayoBoy
What size breaker is it? The 5th post assumed it was 15 amps and everyone ran with it from there. Is it 15 or 20?
Click to expand...

Hope its 15. If in fact it is a 20 amp circuit and he is having issues with its load the problem gets that much more serious!!! And I believe he has some serious issues that should NOT be ignored.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6597707#post6597707 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by brian3
Any loose connection in the outlet could cause a fire.
Click to expand...

I was curious so I ask a neighbor who is a city firefighter in my area about house fires. His answer was. This time of year MOST fires are caused by 3 things. Least likely ............ accidental ignition. 2nd likely .......... supplemental heater whether they be a chimney fire or space heaters using fuel oil or electricity which ties into the MOST likely cause of a home fire ................ OVERLOADED CIRCUITS with improper wiring and or circuit protection (your tripping breaker).

I'm not trying to bash but really would like to see you reconsider your attitude towards this issue. Personally I would disassemble my tank in a heart beat rather than risk the safety of my family. I wish you the best of luck because thats really all thats preventing a disaster here for you ......... LUCK.
 
Our entire house (built 1964) is 20 amp circuits (minus furnace, ovens, hot water heater, etc.). In the addition I put on, it's 20 amps for outlets and 15 amps for lights/ceiling fans.
 
Personally, I'd get one of those Kill-a-watt thingies and plug in each device. A pump might be going bad and it's starting to fail and drawing a huge load. It's a lot cheaper than your insurance deductable.
 
Mayo, your house is one of the exceptions then. In 1964 BX cable was still very popular (another topic all together, but something else to worry about) and most of it was #14. My house (1958) did not have a single piece of #12 wire in it (until I re-wired and ripped out every piece of BX).

Yes A kill-a-watt or good meter is invaluable.
 
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