my house reef (211 g.)

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6680445#post6680445 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by robwsup
Just looked through the thread. You didn't seem to be doing anything that warranted banning. Zeovit always seems to cause commotion when discussed. Remember the Zeo threads here on RC? They got out of hand a few times, almost like the DSB/BB crowd.

Hi Rob - thanks for doing that - useful to get objective views.

Thomas Phol himself, the Zeo invetor is on the Prodi thread right now - I'v not noticed him online before - so hopefully he will be able to articulate answers to the questions I posed.

You got the Prodi US Import rights I see. Nice one. Should take off in the US after Iwans success and a growing and satisfied customer base from the pioneers on this thread.

IME the great thing about this element of the 'Iwan Method' is its ease of use, relative risk free approach, cost effectiveness and IME visually quantifiable results if good husbandry is adhered to.

The DSM/BB debate - ouch!! - watched that from a distance:)

Cheers

Simon
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6680184#post6680184 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by robwsup
Iwan,
I've lost it in the 20 pages, but which particular Prodibio products are you using?

Rob - did this to help - Iwan OK'd it but added that the doesnt go for a fixed dosing regime on the Zeo products - but doses these in response to coral observations.

Summary of the 'Iwan Method'
I have been asked via PM if I could do a summary of Iwan's methods by pulling together what we have learned from this thread so far. Clearly his tank is such an inspiration to us. So what follows is my understanding of his approach, a step by step guide for english speakers on how much of what is needed, reference to manufacturers recommendations and a little from my own experience.

The additives Iwan is using are in two categories:

Probiotic (biotechnology based on bacterial interactions with disovled componds) method - (and an alternative approach to the Zeo Basic 4):

1. Prodibio Bio Digest - Bacteria strains to take No3 and PO4 to undetectable levels; - Dosed every 2 weeks - 1 ampule per 1000lts;

2. Prodibio Bio TIPM (or Trace) - bacteria food. Dosed every 2 weeks - 1 ampule per 200ltrs;

3. Zeo Start 2: Carbon bacteria food: Dosed daily 1ml per 100ltrs. (One of the Zeo basic 4);

Coral food and trace elements:

4. Prodibio Reef Booster - Omega 3, Amino Acids, and trace elements. Dosed weekly at 1 ampule per 400ltrs;

5. Zeo Coral Vitaliser (CV)- SPS food dosed daily after lights out 1-3 drops per 100l (depending on stocking levels);

6. Zeo Amino Acid High Concentrat (AAHC): Dosed daily after lights out 1-3 drops per 1 100 ltrs - Coral growth and coloration enhancer;

7. Zeo Potassium Iodine Flouride (PIF) : Dosed twise a week anytime at 1 drop per 100ltrs;

Prodibio is not available in the UK or US (although Floridot is looking into being the US importer) and the cheapest I have found it is from a French supplier who ships to the UK and US:

http://www.theaquaticparadise.com/p...545a7e294c5bb25

Zeo products are available in the UK and US from sponcers on the Zeo site.

When calculating how much you need of each - the following tips maybe helpfull.

1. 100lts = 25 USg
2. 3 drops from a Zeo pipette = 0.1 ml
3. Estimate net system water volume.

For example if your net water volume is 600ltrs (150 usg) the following amounts will be needed for 1 year 2 months supply based arround the 30 vials in the core product - Prodibio BioDigest:
(- Quater the amounts below if you want to trail the approach for 3 months.
- Double the amounts below if you are lucky enough to have a 1200ltr reef.
- Half the amounts below if you have a 1200ltr reefand want to trail it for 3 months.
- Etc etc)

1. BioDigests: 30 vials;
2. BioTIPM (or Bio Trace): 90 vials;
3. ZeoStart 2: 10 x 500ml bottles;

4. Prodibio Reef Booster: 60 vials (this is underdoing on a 600l - but seems OK so far on my reef);
5. Zeo CV: 100mls (Based on minimuml dosage of 1 drop per 100ltrs)(this product has a shelf life and should be kept in the fridge.);
6. Zeo AAHC: 100mls, as for CV;
7. Zeo PIF: 50 mls;

The above is what is required to follow Iwans dosage system and respectve manufactureres recommendations. In addition Iwan also uses live Phytoplancton (DT):

Other points that may help:

1. Bacteria Substrate: The probiotic approachs ( Prodibio and Zeo Basic 4) results in bio films that require substrates to attach themselves to. For Zeo Basic 4 it is the Zeolith rocks and LR, - in Iwans approach it is LR and 4 inch MSB in the tank (he has no sump). In my tank it is LR and MSB in the sump (tank is BB).;

2. Ozone and UV will kill the bacteria - and are incompatible with a probiotic method;

3. Regular water changes are used to replenish trace elements;

4.1 Calcium, Alkalinity and PH: In common with all other systems - CA/DKH/MG/PH need to be maintained at NSW levels - . I have found that Prodibio is effective at 10.2 dkh for those who are concerned about PH dips. Iwan and Zeo run thier DKH at 8.

4.2 Kalkwasser is not required, with the use of aragonite MSB and a CA reactor. As the tank matures and CA demand increases, a CA reactor will have to run at full pelt, be exchanged for a larger one or as Iwan does - use the balling method to supplement the CA reactor.

4.3 Given the strong acidification that will result from hyper active bacteria, I would recommend that a DSB or MSB of aragonite is used in the tank or sump to buffer the water and maintain PH at 8.1 just before lights go on (point of highest acidification in the daily cycle. My sump MSB base area is 20% of the tank base area and seems to work fine;


5. Protein skimming is always helpfull. I have found that taking the skimmer off for 3 weeks to test the effect on phyto and zoo plancton populations did not result in a rise of NO3 or PO4. I took off a super agressive detlec skimmer, but have since put on a more plancton friendly Tunze skimmer. NO3 and PO4 remain undetectable. Skimmate is lightening gradually the longer Prodio is used;

6. Algae refugium: IME the effect on algae refugium with Prodibio is similar to the reported effect with Zeo BAsic 4. During the first 4 weeks the chateo continued to grow well, then stagnated and at week 6 begab to die due to NO3 PO4 starvation - so keep an eye out for that.

7. Activated carbon: I have found that 24/7 use of activated carbon (rowacarbon) through a Tunze quick change filter (ie powered) has not resulted in STN or RTN. This is switched of for 30 mins after any dosage). However - I may not be experiencing the full effect of the coral food and tace element suppliments and will change carbon use to 24/7 passive use;

8. Fluidised Rowaphos: This media is at the very last stage in the sump - and the small amount that I fluidise has not been depleted. This may indicate that it is no longer needed. Iwan no longer uses it;

9 Lighting: There is no doubt in Germany that T5 lighting with individual parabolic reflectors alternating between actinic and white bulbs in a 50/50 ration is highly effective for SPS. Full side to side and front to back coverage is required. This will have a radiant heat effect and raise tank water temperatures. Running fans to cool T5 bulbs will control tank water temperature and increase T5 light output.

It allows coral placement across the full length and width of the tank to a depth of 80cm (depending on SPS species) from the tubes. Iwan changes his approx every 9 months - dannano (RC TOTM March 05 hasnt changes his in over 2 years). B Mohr described a slowing of SPS growth after 9 months.

10. SPS Coloration: None of the above can turn a genetically brown sps into any other colour. This approach will make the best of the color in the coral DNA.

11. Risks:

An attractive feature of the prodibio approach has been no observed risk of RTN due to rapid changes in clinical nitrogen cycle parameters.

I suggest you can be confident to use the Prodibio elements from day 1, along with Zeo CV and AAHC (these 2 start at 1 drop per 100lts per day and titrate the dope upwards in 2 weekly intervals)

There are contra indications with ZeoStart2 and PIF that are described in the Zeo Guide V1.01.

Finally - I hope this is a helpful sumarry of what I have learned to date - and many many thanks to Iwan for introducing the english speaking world to this approach, and I would be very grateful if Iwan would wish to add anything to help us along further.

HTH

Simon (trythechi)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6680600#post6680600 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TryTheChi


You got the Prodi US Import rights I see. Nice one. Should take off in the US after Iwans success and a growing and satisfied customer base from the pioneers on this thread.

We've got a good email list of prospective Prodibio customers coming together.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6680843#post6680843 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by robwsup
We've got a good email list of prospective Prodibio customers coming together.

I guess you beat me to it! Congrats if this is true.
 
Yeah, we're pretty excited about it. We're bringing in about 350 pieces on the first shipment. Gotta get a sponsor forum set up here, figure pricing, get customs all straightened out (importing bacteria!?!?!) etc. It's been a real learning experience so far. Gary, who imports Zeo products has been a real help.
 
Thanks Iwan.

The folks here mentioned that the best reflectors for T5HO should be parabolic W-shaped. Recently I purchased a few W-shaped reflectors but found that their width is too wide (almost 7.7-8cm) so that I could only put 5 reflectors on top of my tank.

When I asked for a reflector with minimial width, my shop proposed a 5cm-width parabolic reflectors so that I would put 7 reflectors on top of my tank. However, it is U-shaped. The shop said these reflectors will be able to provide maximum intensity per area.

Do you agree with this? I want to get your expert comments before I make the purchase. Thanks.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6678067#post6678067 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iwan
The ATI use one reflector per every bulb. The reflectors have a U-design.
 
That was quick. Good work! I would use your site but the bubbles are too much for me...it's a stroke thing and I can only be on the site for about a minute at a time. :(
 
TryTheChi,
I have some ceramic rings for those fluval filters. Do you think the bacteria from the prodibio can attach to these? I have no room in the sump for sand, and I have no room to put a sandbed in a bucket sort of thing. If the bacteria have no where to bond to, the extra guys just get wasted right?

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=HG11455
That's what I was talking about.

Also, why do you need so many of the bacteria ones. Dont the bacteria reproduce?

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6683529#post6683529 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lights Are Bright


Also, why do you need so many of the bacteria ones. Dont the bacteria reproduce?


You already are right: The bacteria are a reproducing life form .
The problem is that many bacterium types live in our systems. But the bacterium types are competitors.
Certain types dominate with the time while other types are decimated.
To get the balance and therefore the biological stability, I give selected bacteria into the system.
 
For Simon or Iwan,

Do you turn off your skimmer before dosing the Prodibio products. I received a Japanese leaflet from Mr. Rodriguez in France which shows a Protein skimmer with a red line through it at the dosing stage. Also, do you mix the Biodigest and the Bioptim in the same liter of aquarium water before dosing?

I got my Prodibio in the mail today, but will not start dosing until Thursday after I get my second baseline water sample.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6687759#post6687759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Floridiot
For Simon or Iwan,

Do you turn off your skimmer before dosing the Prodibio products. I received a Japanese leaflet from Mr. Rodriguez in France which shows a Protein skimmer with a red line through it at the dosing stage. Also, do you mix the Biodigest and the Bioptim in the same liter of aquarium water before dosing?

I got my Prodibio in the mail today, but will not start dosing until Thursday after I get my second baseline water sample.

You should turn off the skimmer for 15 minutes when you dose Reefbooster. I do the other products separated into some aquarium water.
It isn't necessary to turn the skimmer off.
I am sure that you will be enthusiastic about the products.

iwan
 
You already are right: The bacteria are a reproducing life form .
The problem is that many bacterium types live in our systems. But the bacterium types are competitors.
Certain types dominate with the time while other types are decimated.
To get the balance and therefore the biological stability, I give selected bacteria into the system.

I see...Would that biomax ceramic rings be sufficient for the bacteria to live on?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6691434#post6691434 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lights Are Bright
I see...Would that biomax ceramic rings be sufficient for the bacteria to live on?

A DSB offers considerably more settlement area than these ceramic rings.
Is no place in the tank for a DSB either?
The ceramic rings offer for certain also a little settlement area.
I personally judge such filter sceptically.
 
I would think that increasing the amount of live rock or adding a sandbed or DSB would be the best way to increase suitable surface area for bacteria to populate. Media in a mechanical filter will surely increase the surface area for bacteria, however all of that surface area is constantly flushed with highly oxygenated water, which will limit the diversity of bacteria that can live there. Live rock and sandbeds allow for much greater bacterial diversity as they provide aerobic, anaerobic and anoxic zones for different bacterial strains to populate.
 
I have too much flow in my display for sand, and my sump is taken up by my asm g2. Its an rubbermaid and so i cant put baffles in for a sand box or anything. I would be running the rings passively, not in a rx or filter. My display is at a good amount of rock and I like how it looks. Perhaps i could fill up my sump with LR rubble? What is different between the rings and the LR? besides LR is bigger.
 
LAB

What are your current PO4 and NO3 readings please?

You may find that if you dont have a large number of fish for the tank size that the LR alone is adequate substrate for Prodi Bac cultures to work well.

The only real way of knowing is to check parameters , dose and test again. If after 4 - 6 weeks you do not notice a shift to 0 values for both, then the options would be to reduce feeding or add LR rubbble to your rubbermaid.

The sintered glass products from Germany such as siporax are advertised as having low oxygen environments at thier core suitable for denitrification, but I'm not sure about the fluval material - certainly better than nothing.

You have about twise as much LR/Gal as I do - and good water flow by the sounds of it (is the flow in and behind the LR?) so chances are you'll get the Prodi benefits.

They do the vials in 6 packs if you want to experiment.

Cheers

Simon
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6691910#post6691910 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lights Are Bright
What is different between the rings and the LR? besides LR is bigger.

LR is very porous. The pores are also very small. Water moves in and out of the pores very slowly. As it gets deeper into the pores, it becomes less oxygenated. Through these different gradients of oxygen levels in the water, there will be different strains of bacteria that live and function at those levels. With most of the artificial medias that I know of, the only type of environment they provide is one where the water is always highly oxygenated because they aren't porous, but trythechi says the sintered glass is porous and will allow for more bacterial diversity. I've never heard of the sintered glass myself so I can't comment on it.

We may be overthinking the whole equation in regards to needing to add more surface area for the bacteria to populate. Full blown ZEOvit tanks operate fine with almost no rock and no sand. But this might be where the ZEO reactor itself comes into play. It is hard to know for sure how much surface area you will need for the bacteria with Prodibio. There seems to be very little information from other Prodibio users out there at this time. The only way to know for sure is through experimentation and trial and error.
 
I made a mistake by not getting an adequate test kit to test my parameters. I just have those dip sticks from Jungle. It reads 0, but it may be close to zero because I have 2 sps, one came with rock, and another i bought and they are always extending their polyps and growing quickly. I also only have one 4 line wrasse and thats it. I do plan to get the test kits soon though. So basically, if its not enough, just add alittle more rock until it is?

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6697892#post6697892 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lights Are Bright
I made a mistake by not getting an adequate test kit to test my parameters. I

Thanks

Suggest you get the following test kits of decent quality - Salifert has a good reputation:

PH, Alk, Ca, Mg, No3 and PO4 - these are the basics - and suggest you get these before Prodibio, more LR or anything - as we do need to know what is going on in our tanks.

With that stocking level - I think you have enough LR.

Good luck

Simon
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6693963#post6693963 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Travis

We may be overthinking the whole equation in regards to needing to add more surface area for the bacteria to populate. Full blown ZEOvit tanks operate fine with almost no rock and no sand. But this might be where the ZEO reactor itself comes into play. .

Hi Travis - how is the Zeo B4 start up going?

From what I'v picked up re the functioning of zeolites in the the zeo system they take out NH3 before it can be decomposed by bacteria, and the daily pumping of the reactor serves to allow the zeolite structure to be clear of bacteria so it can continue to adsorb. The resulting released mulm also has a coral feeding function I understand.

The size of the bac population will be govered by what it has to feed off - which with zeo is much less than prodi bacause of the above, and whaterver fish feeding inputs go in the tank.

Cheers

Simon
 
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