King Nikon
New member
Oh yeah I completely forgot about having the back covered in rock or being black hahaha. Looks good man just make sure you vent the heck out of the inside of the stand since there's a chiller in there too!
My Leemar 90 Build.
- Thread starter christygirl
- Start date
christygirl
Well-known member
King,
I have 4 fans in the stand. the 2 at the bottom are drawing air in and the 2 at the top are pulling it out.
I think I am going to run those 24 - 7. I was considering using them on the apex as needed, but I think I like the idea of the fresh air.
I have 4 fans in the stand. the 2 at the bottom are drawing air in and the 2 at the top are pulling it out.
I think I am going to run those 24 - 7. I was considering using them on the apex as needed, but I think I like the idea of the fresh air.
King Nikon
New member
Run them 24/7, they won't cost anything noticeable to run and it will have nothing but benefits.
Another thought, are you going to have enough room between the tank and the wall to ever replace those fans if they get caked with dust or stop working?
Another thought, are you going to have enough room between the tank and the wall to ever replace those fans if they get caked with dust or stop working?
christygirl
Well-known member
King,
Yes.... I have about 5 inches there so with a stubby screw driver and about a 10 0inch reach to each fan..... no problem. Plus, I wire nutted the fans together right to the outside edge of the grey conduit. Each side is the wired seperately.
The only tight fit, is the transformers..... if they go bad, it will be tricky since they are zip tied and velcroed so they wont slip..... Still, I think I can manage to get them out if I need to.
Yes.... I have about 5 inches there so with a stubby screw driver and about a 10 0inch reach to each fan..... no problem. Plus, I wire nutted the fans together right to the outside edge of the grey conduit. Each side is the wired seperately.
The only tight fit, is the transformers..... if they go bad, it will be tricky since they are zip tied and velcroed so they wont slip..... Still, I think I can manage to get them out if I need to.
Paramecium
One man wolf pack
The only thing I would worry about is the chiller being that close to the sump. When they run they are usually quite hot, not just the air exhausting from them but the unit itself. If it is that close to the sump it will radiate a lot of heat into I would think. Before I downgraded my setup I had a chiller in the room with my frag tank where it was plumbed through the wall to the main tank. It was almost counter productive. It got so hot from the chiller just being in the same room even with a giant floor fan blowing at it that the room itself would get into the 90's and make it run inefficiently so that it was on nearly all the time.
christygirl
Well-known member
Danny,
Thanks for the advice and info.
I currently have my redsea max running on the same chiller. I have it installed inside of a cabinet as well. So far, I have not had any problems with heat. It maybe because I keep the house at a comfortable 72.... (a wife, 4 dogs, and a bird kind of demand it!) At any rate, that tank is on the hot side of the house. Actually sits next to the window with the worst exposure.
So, up front, it is the cooler side of the house and I have 4 doors on the stand. If heat becomes an issue, I could always open the 2 doors that are adjaceant to the chiller during the day.
Question for you?
Do you think it would be wise to have a fan come on at the same time as the chiller that would blow right on the chiller during operation? I could have the apex do that. Or do you think that would also add too much heat?
Thanks for your input! I appreciate it!
Thanks for the advice and info.
I currently have my redsea max running on the same chiller. I have it installed inside of a cabinet as well. So far, I have not had any problems with heat. It maybe because I keep the house at a comfortable 72.... (a wife, 4 dogs, and a bird kind of demand it!) At any rate, that tank is on the hot side of the house. Actually sits next to the window with the worst exposure.
So, up front, it is the cooler side of the house and I have 4 doors on the stand. If heat becomes an issue, I could always open the 2 doors that are adjaceant to the chiller during the day.
Question for you?
Do you think it would be wise to have a fan come on at the same time as the chiller that would blow right on the chiller during operation? I could have the apex do that. Or do you think that would also add too much heat?
Thanks for your input! I appreciate it!
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
IMO, I would draw that hot air out. If you're blowing the outside air onto the chiller, then you'll just recirculating the hot air inside the sump. I'd have the opposite fan push the air in and the fan closest to the chiller push the air out.
christygirl
Well-known member
Mike,
I think I have that situation so far right now. But, what I did was am drawing the air out topside pulling fresh air on the lower side. Instead of pulling from left to right.
I have 4 fans. 2 top and 2 bottom. each move around 50 CFM. 200 CFM total, I have approximatel 24 CF inside the stand when empty. So theoretically I am turning the air around 10 times. (At least I think so.... Maybe only 5 times if 2 push and 2 pull - I don't know.) Of course, with no doors right now, I can't really say this is happening!
I originally wanted to pull out from the bottom, but, in talking to a few people, most thought it would be beneficial to pull the air out of the top since heat rises....
I am worried about heat..... But, my wife, the real christygirl, will not let me have a chiller outside of the cabinet..... I really dont want it out either though..... Kind of a neat freak...... So I need to try my best with what I have.
I appreciate the input. I think I am on the same page as you.
I think I have that situation so far right now. But, what I did was am drawing the air out topside pulling fresh air on the lower side. Instead of pulling from left to right.
I have 4 fans. 2 top and 2 bottom. each move around 50 CFM. 200 CFM total, I have approximatel 24 CF inside the stand when empty. So theoretically I am turning the air around 10 times. (At least I think so.... Maybe only 5 times if 2 push and 2 pull - I don't know.) Of course, with no doors right now, I can't really say this is happening!
I originally wanted to pull out from the bottom, but, in talking to a few people, most thought it would be beneficial to pull the air out of the top since heat rises....
I am worried about heat..... But, my wife, the real christygirl, will not let me have a chiller outside of the cabinet..... I really dont want it out either though..... Kind of a neat freak...... So I need to try my best with what I have.
I appreciate the input. I think I am on the same page as you.
Paramecium
One man wolf pack
The best way to go about it is to have a fan blowing into the front of the chiller. I'm sure they all run the same way with a fan inside of them pulling air in the front, across a bank of finned tubes much like a car radiator and then exhaust out the back. I have seen them in stands where the area behind the chiller was cut out and a screen installed. That is where the majority of the heat will be generated. The other issue is getting cool air into the front of the unit. In the other in stand applications I have seen, the tank was very large and there was plenty of space for the chiller without having it right up against anything but the back where the screen was placed.
You may well have no real problems seeing as you keep your house pretty cool anyhow. Sizing of the chiller makes a huge difference as well. The red sea is 60 gal or so? Make sure the chiller is rated to handle your 90 plus the sump or it won't work efficiently at all.
I went through problems with mine when I set my tank up. I figured an Eheim 1262 would be plenty to feed it but I didn't consider how much head it takes to push through all those coils and all said and done I was barely at the bottom end of the recommended flow rate for the chiller. I also figured a 1/4 horse would be enough but with a frag tank, display and sump it was a lot of water and a 1/3 would have been a better choice. Because it was undersized it ran for longer and would in turn heat up the whole room making it run even less efficiently due to the hot air it was now pulling in.
Long story short, to save yourself some misery just make sure everything is sized right and setup the way they are designed to be used.
As for the fan, they are so small it wouldn't hurt to have them running all the time if you can bear the noise. The impact on your power bill from those fans will be minimal.
You may well have no real problems seeing as you keep your house pretty cool anyhow. Sizing of the chiller makes a huge difference as well. The red sea is 60 gal or so? Make sure the chiller is rated to handle your 90 plus the sump or it won't work efficiently at all.
I went through problems with mine when I set my tank up. I figured an Eheim 1262 would be plenty to feed it but I didn't consider how much head it takes to push through all those coils and all said and done I was barely at the bottom end of the recommended flow rate for the chiller. I also figured a 1/4 horse would be enough but with a frag tank, display and sump it was a lot of water and a 1/3 would have been a better choice. Because it was undersized it ran for longer and would in turn heat up the whole room making it run even less efficiently due to the hot air it was now pulling in.
Long story short, to save yourself some misery just make sure everything is sized right and setup the way they are designed to be used.
As for the fan, they are so small it wouldn't hurt to have them running all the time if you can bear the noise. The impact on your power bill from those fans will be minimal.
christygirl
Well-known member
Danny,
Thanks I appreciate the info.... I really think I am going to be ok in that the chiller is at the side and any particularly hot days I can open the stand for more airflow. My chiller may be undersized though..... that will be an upgrade in the making at some point in time.... if need be.
I am curipus about the flow issue..... I am intending to gravity feed my chiller..... this may need to be rethought. Sounds like you had an issue with the eheim 1262.
I am using a 1262 as well, but, it is pumping up and then the overflow is being split to the sump dirrect and to the chiller...... I hope this works, but if it doesn't, I have a big laguna 4900 pump..... I use them on my pond and they move water real well. If I need to increase flow, I can do that.
Danny thanks for the input.... at least I have a few things to put on my checklist to keep an eye on.
Thanks I appreciate the info.... I really think I am going to be ok in that the chiller is at the side and any particularly hot days I can open the stand for more airflow. My chiller may be undersized though..... that will be an upgrade in the making at some point in time.... if need be.
I am curipus about the flow issue..... I am intending to gravity feed my chiller..... this may need to be rethought. Sounds like you had an issue with the eheim 1262.
I am using a 1262 as well, but, it is pumping up and then the overflow is being split to the sump dirrect and to the chiller...... I hope this works, but if it doesn't, I have a big laguna 4900 pump..... I use them on my pond and they move water real well. If I need to increase flow, I can do that.
Danny thanks for the input.... at least I have a few things to put on my checklist to keep an eye on.
christygirl
Well-known member
150er, Thanks for the compliment. The manifold is coming from the return. I will place one directly to the sump with a flexible arm. The middle one will be a spare for future adds or emergencies, the last one will gravity feed to my chiller which will then return right to my pump section for distribution to the tank. I plan on placing the heater in that section as well. I will place my themp probe in the first section of the sump.
mykim72, thanks.... I am starting to actually get excited about the tank.
mykim72, thanks.... I am starting to actually get excited about the tank.
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
More pictures, more pictures. 
christygirl
Well-known member
Mike,
I hope to gather the rest of my rock this weekend and foam it in and then I hope to fill it with water and run it......
Pics for sure.....
I hope to gather the rest of my rock this weekend and foam it in and then I hope to fill it with water and run it......
Pics for sure.....
CW from the OC
New member
Hey Randy,
I have some MDF in my stand. I told the builder repeatedly to not use it, but they did anyway. It is amazing how water manages to get into MDF. Looks like between the laminate and the caulk on the inside you got that covered. I'd suggest you take another look at the holes in the back and the outside of the back itself, which appears to be raw MDF still. Maybe give those areas 2 or 3 coats of enamel paint to help seal it?
Nice build, everything is looking fantastic!
I have some MDF in my stand. I told the builder repeatedly to not use it, but they did anyway. It is amazing how water manages to get into MDF. Looks like between the laminate and the caulk on the inside you got that covered. I'd suggest you take another look at the holes in the back and the outside of the back itself, which appears to be raw MDF still. Maybe give those areas 2 or 3 coats of enamel paint to help seal it?
Nice build, everything is looking fantastic!
christygirl
Well-known member
CW - Thanks, I have the MDF sealed pretty good. I like your idea of sealing the back. I think it may be to late for that....
The Don - Stay tuned.... Next post!
The Don - Stay tuned.... Next post!
christygirl
Well-known member
This weekend was a good weekend! Water is in the tank. Here is a brief series of pictures.
So the eggcrate is now covered with rock and foam. I really like the way it turned out.
This is the left side rock structure.
Here is a series of the right side rock structure.
The first is a shot straight on. This structure hides the overflow.
The second shot shows a view towards the overflow.
The last is a shot from the back of the rock structure. This shows the foam through the egg crate.
Here is a shot with the structures in the tank. Sorry about the reflections.
DRUMROLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL........
Special thanks to Jason @ aquariums in motion.... He stayed open late for me today. We bought 95 gallons of Scripps saltwater.
WATER IN THE TANK!
I have a couple of shots with some temp lighting on the tank. I was originally going to use 2 of these CADLIGHTS fixtures..... But, I think I am going to look for a 4 foot fixture with (2) 150 HQI's (2) T5's and (4) Led's for moon lighting.
So now I need to do the following:
1. Shop for lights.
2. Get a Bubble Magnus Doser
3. Install the Skimmer
4. Set up the Apex.
5. Build a canopy
6. Skin the stand and make doors.....
Maybe by then, the tank will be cycled!
I hope you like this..... My wife and I sure do.
So the eggcrate is now covered with rock and foam. I really like the way it turned out.
This is the left side rock structure.
Here is a series of the right side rock structure.
The first is a shot straight on. This structure hides the overflow.
The second shot shows a view towards the overflow.
The last is a shot from the back of the rock structure. This shows the foam through the egg crate.
Here is a shot with the structures in the tank. Sorry about the reflections.
DRUMROLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL........
Special thanks to Jason @ aquariums in motion.... He stayed open late for me today. We bought 95 gallons of Scripps saltwater.
WATER IN THE TANK!
I have a couple of shots with some temp lighting on the tank. I was originally going to use 2 of these CADLIGHTS fixtures..... But, I think I am going to look for a 4 foot fixture with (2) 150 HQI's (2) T5's and (4) Led's for moon lighting.
So now I need to do the following:
1. Shop for lights.
2. Get a Bubble Magnus Doser
3. Install the Skimmer
4. Set up the Apex.
5. Build a canopy
6. Skin the stand and make doors.....
Maybe by then, the tank will be cycled!
I hope you like this..... My wife and I sure do.
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