My lionfish is sick

MrFolgers

New member
My lionfish has ich and his eyes are reallu cloudy. He hasnt eaten in 4 days and is looking really thin. He just sits on the bottom of my 75 gallon tank. Heres what he looks like
 

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What if i dont have an extra usable tank?

Couldnt i just treat him in the tank hes already in considering hes the only inhabitant?
 
ok im defenatly no expert on this i guess you could but i would kill any coral in the tank and i think it is hard to get out once in but if you dont plan on using it for anything eles then?? im sure somone with more experience than me will chime in
 
Go to Petco and buy a 10gal tank for 12.99 and a cheap filter. you can not treat ich in the DT as it will kill your good bacteria and probably your corals. Read the stickies on the New to Reefing section. your tank will have to be fishless for atleast 6-8 weeks to kill of the parasite.
 
Traces of copper will be left in your DT for a long time, causing demise of things you'll add-in in the further. Definatly get a QT.
 
Ok i got my 10 gallon setup with a heater and powerhead just to mix up the salt. Im going to petco soon to pick up a cheapo filter. My question is what should i have the salinity of my qt be bc i read that hyposalinity helps kill the parasites
 
Ok i got my 10 gallon setup with a heater and powerhead just to mix up the salt. Im going to petco soon to pick up a cheapo filter. My question is what should i have the salinity of my qt be bc i read that hyposalinity helps kill the parasites

I wouldnt bother with hypo.. I would use water from your DT and treat the QT with copper as mentioned above. It will kill the ich parasite almost immediatiely. Ich attacks the gills of the fish making it difficult for the fish to get adequet oxygen so make sure you add an air stone to the QT. From your description and the fact that the fish is no longer eating, I would say your time to resolve this is VERY limited. Waiting for hypo to work at your stage of ich will most certainly end up with a dead fish. Quarentine and treat with copper immediately.
 
Match the salinity of the DT or maybe just a little lower.
The lionfish will need to spend the next 8 weeks (at least) in the QT for the ich to die out in the DT without a host.
Do you have any filtration on the DT that could be transfered to the QT?
Without an established biological filter you will need to do water changes almost daily to avoid an ammonia spike and will need to add additional copper with each water change. Copper must be kept at therapeutic levels to be effective. Cupramine seems to be the brand of choice these days, follow the instructions to the letter.
Good luck!
 
Five days isn't that long, but it maybe too late no matter what action you take. The fish may simply be too far gone to save. Not your fault, sometimes it happens.

How long have you had the fish? How often does it normally eat?
It looks like a fairly good sized lionfish, it could be dying of old age.
 
Five days isn't that long, but it maybe too late no matter what action you take. The fish may simply be too far gone to save. Not your fault, sometimes it happens.

How long have you had the fish? How often does it normally eat?
It looks like a fairly good sized lionfish, it could be dying of old age.

Ive had him since christmas. I bought him 7 inches and now hes about 9. I spoil him and feed him 1 silverside every night.
 
He looks bad :( poor guy.

Your best bet is to get a quarantine tank and move him to it. Then let your tank go fallow (fishless) for a full 8-10 weeks to purge the display of ich. Then, any future fish make sure to quarantine (see the qt threads for info).

I personally like 20 long tanks for quarantine, but whatever you can fit in the space you have should be fine.

If he does survive in QT. Still let the display go fallow for 8-10 weeks. The lion will need to be treated with copper (cupramine) until the ich is eradicated. Treating with copper isn't necessarily a cakewalk for the fish either. Some lose apetite. If the fish isn't eating now, chances are low that it won't survive.

Don't let the bad prognosis stop you from trying. I have treated fish that are not eating (bacterial infection, not ich), and brought back from the verge of death. Other times not so lucky. I even hand fed a fish with bad vision (almost blind) for months manually, to have it -fully- recover and gain its vision and vitality back.
 
I have a FO tank and have treated with cupramine. Only issue is it usually takes more of it than what is noted to get to the proper levels (i.e. .25 to .5 to eradicate the ich per seachem). The sand, and dead coral skeletons sucked it up in my case.

I never plan on having any corals or inverts in my FO so I am not worried about anything leaching over time.

I do have a QT now I set up for a new fish and treating with curpamine is much easier, mainly because what is noted to dose gets the right levels since the empty tank has nothing to absorb it out of the water column.

This is based on my experience dosing my tank twice - each time had ich after a new fish. Both times, the fish did not look as bad and everything seemed to work (also had a lion); however, I did have a butterfly that got cloudy eyes around a week after I started using it (assumed secondary infection) and one eye never cleared up (I assume it is a blind eye now). Now I have a QT and been treating a new wrasse for 2.5 weeks.

Another note with the lion, the first time I treated, I put in 50% does day one and I think it was too much for the lion at once. After around 2 days, Lion seemed fine and I kept adding to get to around .35 to .4 (so it looked on the test kits).

I also found using the Red Sea test kit is better than the Seachem. To me, the Seachem is hard to read.

If you does, in the QT or display, just do it slowly (over several days).

Mike
 
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