My Neptune Apex web interface compatible DIY reef controller

you can extend timeout in code.
If you are getting timeout getting logs, your log file may be getting really large due to too much logging and is taking more than the timeout time to complete the transfer.

you can determine what is causing all the problems from firefox firebug debugger.
 
OK is there a way to update that remotely with say curl? not sure if I want to try that or not. :worried:

This is the sort of stuff I'm seeing on firebug. Not not totally sure how to interpret firebug. hopefully you can see this pic ok.

vaW07cLh.png
 
Here is the power isolator circuit if you find out that is your problem and need it. I just made my own with the individual parts. Sometimes you just can't get rid of the noise I had two pumps that were causing problems. My understanding is it can sometimes just be due to natural capacitive coupling in the motor with the water or just a ground loop current. In the long run if you have plan to run an EC circuit you will probably need it anyways.

https://www.atlas-scientific.com/product_pages/circuits/pwr-iso.html
 
Here is the power isolator circuit if you find out that is your problem and need it. I just made my own with the individual parts. Sometimes you just can't get rid of the noise I had two pumps that were causing problems. My understanding is it can sometimes just be due to natural capacitive coupling in the motor with the water or just a ground loop current. In the long run if you have plan to run an EC circuit you will probably need it anyways.

https://www.atlas-scientific.com/product_pages/circuits/pwr-iso.html
Wow! A schematic on that one. It lows my mind how proud they are of their stuff. That's like 50 cents worth of parts that they are charging $33 for...
 
Wow! A schematic on that one. It lows my mind how proud they are of their stuff. That's like 50 cents worth of parts that they are charging $33 for...

The parts are a bit more than 50 cents at least where I got the parts for mine. Maybe $4-$6 in volume, but yeah they are still making a boat load none the less. It pays to make your own on that one, but I guess it depends on if you know enough of what your doing too.

This is the "adapter" I made it just plugs in between the pin connections.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24183919&postcount=106
 
Nice, where did you get the board? I used to have a cat that looked a lot like yours. It had a broken tail though that made a nearly 90 deg bend...
 
Nice, where did you get the board? I used to have a cat that looked a lot like yours. It had a broken tail though that made a nearly 90 deg bend...

It was one I made it was all a DYI home made board. Yeah I thought I throw my cat in there. lol I don't have much else for totally cool corals or fish to show off yet. :)
 
what do you use for the green trace covering on your boards? i etch my own boards but dont do anything to cover the traces mostly because i havent found anything that is cheap enough to make it worth it to me
 
well I can't say if it "cheap" or not but this is what I been using. I usually been doing this just for boards I intend to bake since if you don't the boards will turn yellow otherwise lol. I have used the paint on stuff but its more messy and you have to use saran wrap in-between the mask which is tricky also.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161590781049
 
i'm trying to return atlas ph to original factory settings and Calibrate again by simple code
this is the code

PHP:
//This code was written to be easy to understand.
//Code efficiency was not considered.
//Modify this code as you see fit.
//This code will output data to the Arduino serial monitor.
//Type commands into the Arduino serial monitor to control the pH circuit.
//This code was written in the Arduino 1.6.5 IDE
//An Arduino Mega was used to test this code.


String inputstring = "";                              //a string to hold incoming data from the PC
String sensorstring = "";                             //a string to hold the data from the Atlas Scientific product
boolean input_string_complete = false;                //have we received all the data from the PC
boolean sensor_string_complete = false;               //have we received all the data from the Atlas Scientific product
float pH;                                             //used to hold a floating point number that is the pH


void setup() {                                        //set up the hardware
  Serial.begin(9600);                                 //set baud rate for the hardware serial port_0 to 9600
  Serial3.begin(9600);                                //set baud rate for software serial port_3 to 9600
  inputstring.reserve(10);                            //set aside some bytes for receiving data from the PC
  sensorstring.reserve(30);                           //set aside some bytes for receiving data from Atlas Scientific product
}

void serialEvent() {                                  //if the hardware serial port_0 receives a char
  inputstring = Serial.readStringUntil(13);           //read the string until we see a <CR>
  input_string_complete = true;                       //set the flag used to tell if we have received a completed string from the PC
}


void serialEvent3() {                                 //if the hardware serial port_3 receives a char
  sensorstring = Serial3.readStringUntil(13);         //read the string until we see a <CR>
  sensor_string_complete = true;                      //set the flag used to tell if we have received a completed string from the PC
}


void loop() {                                         //here we go...


  if (input_string_complete == true) {                //if a string from the PC has been received in its entirety
    Serial3.print(inputstring);                       //send that string to the Atlas Scientific product
    Serial3.print('\r');                              //add a <CR> to the end of the string
    inputstring = "";                                 //clear the string
    input_string_complete = false;                    //reset the flag used to tell if we have received a completed string from the PC
  }


  if (sensor_string_complete == true) {               //if a string from the Atlas Scientific product has been received in its entirety
    Serial.println(sensorstring);                     //send that string to the PC's serial monitor
    if (isdigit(sensorstring[0])) {                   //if the first character in the string is a digit
      pH = sensorstring.toFloat();                    //convert the string to a floating point number so it can be evaluated by the Arduino
      if (pH >= 7.0) {                                //if the pH is greater than or equal to 7.0
        Serial.println("high");                       //print "high" this is demonstrating that the Arduino is evaluating the pH as a number and not as a string
      }
      if (pH <= 6.99) {                               //if the pH is less than or equal to 6.99
        Serial.println("low");                        //print "low" this is demonstrating that the Arduino is evaluating the pH as a number and not as a string
      }
    }
  }
  sensorstring = "";                                  //clear the string:
  sensor_string_complete = false;                     //reset the flag used to tell if we have received a completed string from the Atlas Scientific product
}

I have some problems Ph Circuit not working and no led green
I notes my ph probe little cloudy

145105763831711.jpg
 
when i put ph atlas in my Neptune apex it's working
but i can not Calibrate ph -1 after few hours
i want to reset Ph Circuit and calibrate ( alone )
after that i will return back to my apex

thanks
 
well I can't say if it "cheap" or not but this is what I been using. I usually been doing this just for boards I intend to bake since if you don't the boards will turn yellow otherwise lol. I have used the paint on stuff but its more messy and you have to use saran wrap in-between the mask which is tricky also.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161590781049

ya thats to much work for what i use the boards for. I use liquid tin so the copper doesnt corrode and turn green.
 
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