My Neptune Apex web interface compatible DIY reef controller

karimwassef said:
Can you post the source code for the DCT and WP when you can?
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source is on github, file is pwmpumps.ino

karimwassef said:
Is it possible to detect current so if the pump has been dry (turned itself off), that you wait X minutes with no power, then turn it back up again?

This would also work in case the pump is unplugged, then replugged.
Click to expand...

you probably need to add sensors for that.

just an idea. if I get the acs712 current sensor to work, it can be used to detect if a device is ON or not by momentarily turning it on/off and detect the current change. This will probably work only on higher power device like a heater, maybe a return pump.
 
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Agree on the sensor. Actually, individual power monitoring on outlets is a key value that is sorely lacking in the Apex. Having my pump showing "on" but not knowing that its pulling zero current is a disaster.

I'm using a simple cheap shunt ($5) and low pass filter (RC) on the DC to my LEDs to get a measure of current flow. Can you do the same?
 
d0ughb0y said:
I thought Apex has current monitoring.
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Only for the entire power bar. It's also current only - would be great to have true power as well as VA.

There are some relatively inexpensive single phase true power with energy accumulator chips, but you need to tap the voltage and use a shunt (and all the safety related design that needs).
 
The point is outlet specific current and voltage (power is nice but I like the higher resolution). Since most of my loads are low voltage DC (48V down to 12V), a DC current signal serves most of my needs. AC can complicate things with dangerous voltage levels and power factor - ever try running an Apex off generator power? That 105A reading per energy bar will throw you for a loop.

Personally, my backup is turning into a 24V battery wall (a-la-Tesla but at 24V with deep cycle/discharge marine sealed batteries) so DC voltage and current monitoring is more valuable. AC sensing can be confined to power good/power down.
 
karimwassef said:
The point is outlet specific current and voltage (power is nice but I like the higher resolution). Since most of my loads are low voltage DC (48V down to 12V), a DC current signal serves most of my needs. AC can complicate things with dangerous voltage levels and power factor - ever try running an Apex off generator power? That 105A reading per energy bar will throw you for a loop.

Personally, my backup is turning into a 24V battery wall (a-la-Tesla but at 24V with deep cycle/discharge marine sealed batteries) so DC voltage and current monitoring is more valuable. AC sensing can be confined to power good/power down.
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The Apex power bar current monitor is not very good - I get the wildly oscillating current readings as well. My tank equipment is largely SMPS these days (lights, DC pumps, etc) so the noise must be coupling into something.
 
The DC loads should actually be cleaner and quieter? I guess it depends on the SMPS. I'm using server power supplies that have PFC (~1KW) built in. They also have decent EMI (most meet Class B). They generate my bus voltage and then I can buck or boost. The wild voltages come from having to run generator power into my Apex.

I wanted to convert an EB8 into DC (in and out), but that got a freezing cold reception at the Neptune forums...
 
The optical sensors work well. I use them for my ATO

Speaking of Jabeo. Has anyone played with the Cp-40 gyre style pumps? Are they controlled via the same control scheme as the RW or is it a different beast?

I ordered one last night and am curious how I can get arduino or apex to control it
 
shiftline said:
The optical sensors work well. I use them for my ATO

Speaking of Jabeo. Has anyone played with the Cp-40 gyre style pumps? Are they controlled via the same control scheme as the RW or is it a different beast?

I ordered one last night and am curious how I can get arduino or apex to control it
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The optical sensor I ordered should arrive this week. I configured the 2 arduino pins to work with either ultrasonic or infrared for user to select. The optical sensor seems a bit overpriced at $15, when you can get ultrasonic for $0.99 so I left that as an option.

If I have a cp-40 to reverse engineer, I can include that feature in the controller. I was going to buy one but decided to defer it, perhaps until the price drops below $100. I had asked in my local forum to borrow one but nobody offered. I think only 1% of reefers are interested in DIY.
 
d0ughb0y said:
If I have a cp-40 to reverse engineer, I can include that feature in the controller. I was going to buy one but decided to defer it, perhaps until the price drops below $100. I had asked in my local forum to borrow one but nobody offered. I think only 1% of reefers are interested in DIY.
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Always wondered if there is interest in a Wiki or a similar site with tear-downs and reverse engineering of various reef products. Its been in the back of my head for awhile, just haven't committed to anything (besides a speculative domain registration). This is especially useful for equipment that doesn't play well with other systems or is cheap enough that people would want to tinker with it. I know what you're saying - the 1% is also subdivided into a further 1% that is comfortable doing (and understanding) the type of stuff you're working on :)
 
That's an excellent idea! I'm happy to post some on my site if you want to help :). Fishtankprojects.com. I post tons of my projects on there but equipment tear downs and hacks would be a nice addition. I'm happy to give anyone an account that wants to contribute :)
 
theatrus said:
Always wondered if there is interest in a Wiki or a similar site with tear-downs and reverse engineering of various reef products. Its been in the back of my head for awhile, just haven't committed to anything (besides a speculative domain registration). This is especially useful for equipment that doesn't play well with other systems or is cheap enough that people would want to tinker with it. I know what you're saying - the 1% is also subdivided into a further 1% that is comfortable doing (and understanding) the type of stuff you're working on :)
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Well... I agree with concept, but I dispute the %s :D

Look at the size of the DIY forum compared to all the others. It only takes a few good ideas to excite a population.
 
Was just reading about the new Apex, and watched the short video.
It is ironic for Curt to say he built a diy because existing controllers were way too expensive. The new Apex price is $800. Now it uses relays on all 8 outlets and have individual current monitoring. I never liked the idea of using Triacs.

I got the optical sensor yesterday, and I think the unit I got is defective. There is very little information about it. I'll have to test the sensor directly without using the sensor module board. All the sensor module board really does is it added a single op amp MCP601 to convert the analog signal to digital.
 
Didn't realize they were upgrading, but holy heck is the new industrial design ugly as sin. Shiny bulbous gray plastic - no thanks.
 
ok, the way the optical liquid level sensor works is it only has a range of maybe 3 to 4mm only!!! If it touches the water, digital out will go low, and will go high as soon as it goes above the water level. Not sure if the water level is turbulent how it will work.

And I think the surface has to be water (or maybe something reflective). It does not work if I just move it up and down from the table surface.

Based on this, it can substitute one of the ATO float switches, but it cannot function like the ultrasonic sensor for measuring remaining water level on your RO reservoir.

I was hoping the analog out can give a range of at least a couple of feet.
 
The way that these sensors work is typically there is a tiny prism reflecting an LED light back onto a sensor that diffracts when submerged if I recall correctly, so you are correct you only will get a few millimeters of resolution. (Which can be a good thing, depending on application ) This is same concept as Tunze osmolator ATO uses to know when to top off.


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