My Neptune Apex web interface compatible DIY reef controller

I d/l it an used it all the time it was a great thing to have put my little jr online in just a few minutes
 
rott said:
I d/l it an used it all the time it was a great thing to have put my little jr online in just a few minutes
Click to expand...

I read nothing but great reviews with it too, I just never did try it...

while I'm still waiting on pieces for this, I decided to temporarily connect my WP10s to it and see how all the functions work, it took me a few minutes to get the setup figured out but it is working great now.....

this is much much better that the original Jebao controllers, much more flexible, once again, Doughboy, you're a genius man :)
 
wgraham said:
I copy everything that I seen with the ph code in it.

This is what I did in Sensors

#ifdef _ORP
if (initORP()) {
p(F("ORP OK. "));
logMessage(F("ORP sensor initialized."));
} else {
beepFail();
p(F("ORP Init failed "));
logMessage(F("ORP Init failed"));
}
#endif///////////////////////////////////////////////////////
// ORP section
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////
static float orpreading=0;
static boolean orpready = false;

boolean initORP() {
#ifdef _ORP
char orpchars[15];
orpchars[0]=0;
Serial2.begin(38400);
for (int i=0;i<255,strlen(orpchars)==0;i++) {
Serial2.print("e\rr\r");
delay(384);
getresponse1(orpchars);
}
if (strlen(orpchars)==0) {
orpinit=false;
return false;
}
orpreading=atof(orpchars);
if (orpreading>0) {
orpready=true;
orpinit=true;
updateORP();
orpready=false;
return true;
} else
#endif
return false;
}

void updateORP() {
if (!orpinit) return;
static float sum=0;
static float orpa = 0;
if (orpready) {
orpready=false;
if (orpreading>0) {
if (orpa) {
sum = (sum-orpa)+orpreading;
orpa = sum / numReadings;
cli();
orpavg=orpa;
sei();
} else {
sum = orpreading*numReadings;
orpa=orpreading;
orpavg=orpreading;
}
}
Serial2.print("r\r");
}
}

float getorp() {
if (!orpinit) return 0.0;
uint8_t saveSREG=SREG;
cli();
float op = orpavg;
SREG=saveSREG;
return op;
}



void getresponse1(char* orpchars) {
int i = 0;
while (Serial2.available()) {
char c = (char)Serial2.read();
if (c=='\r') {
orpchars=0;
i=0;
return;
} else {
orpchars[i++]=c;
if (i==14) {
i=0;
orpchars[0]=0;
return;
}
}
}
}

void serialEvent2() {
static char orpchars[15];
static int i = 0;
char c = (char)Serial2.read();
if (c=='\r') {
orpchars=0;
i=0;
orpreading=atof(orpchars);
orpready=true;
return;
} else {
orpchars[i++]=c;
if (i==14) {
i=0;
orpchars[0]=0;
orpreading=0;
orpready=true;
}
}
}
Click to expand...


Where did you connect the orp circuit, which pins, or do you run it in serial with the ph circuit?
 
I have 2 atlas ph stamps and 1 salinity stamp would be great if I could just plug them in and the sketch would recognize them. I planed on using one for the ph but a second one would be nice for my calcium reactor Some else tried before and it seemed like it was very difficult to add a second ph probe.
 
Question:

I got around to looking into how I will be adding the Jebao pumps, and saw this how to on adding jebao to Apex controllers.
http://carolinareefers.com/showthread.php?8631-Wiring-amp-Controlling-a-Jebao-WP-Pump-to-an-Apex

Read through it, so now have a question. The cable they have there shown, from reef angel, is that the one I need? If so I am assuming that I will still connect power through it and putting on one of the outlets, as well as connecting the dimmer cables to PWM pins.

Is this assumption correct?
 
jrossjr79 said:
Question:

I got around to looking into how I will be adding the Jebao pumps, and saw this how to on adding jebao to Apex controllers.
http://carolinareefers.com/showthread.php?8631-Wiring-amp-Controlling-a-Jebao-WP-Pump-to-an-Apex

Read through it, so now have a question. The cable they have there shown, from reef angel, is that the one I need? If so I am assuming that I will still connect power through it and putting on one of the outlets, as well as connecting the dimmer cables to PWM pins.

Is this assumption correct?
Click to expand...

that is what you need and what doughboy built himself, doughboy did a much neater job though :)

the power connects directly to the pump, the PWM wire connects directly to the Arduino, both the pump power and the PWN signal share the common ground wire, there are 3 wires total to connect, it is very simple to DIY the cable without buying other pieces if you wanted to scrap the Jebao controller..
 
redtop03 said:
that is what you need and what doughboy built himself, doughboy did a much neater job though :)

the power connects directly to the pump, the PWM wire connects directly to the Arduino, both the pump power and the PWN signal share the common ground wire, there are 3 wires total to connect, it is very simple to DIY the cable without buying other pieces if you wanted to scrap the Jebao controller..
Click to expand...

Thank you for the clarification. Although it is a simple diy, I dont think I want to scrap the controller, rather just sell it to get a few more dollars back in this build :).
 
The cable I made uses the stock power supply of the jebao pumps. Hence there are two dc power connectors to connect to the two power supplies.

Another option is to just use a single power supply. You can use a laptop power supply (just check the voltage and current on one jebao power supply and double the current rating). You can even just hardwire the laptop power supply directly to the cable so you do not need a dc connector socket. So you just need to buy the connector to the pumps and the laptop power supply and leave your stock jebao controller untouched.
 
jrossjr79 said:
Thank you for the clarification. Although it is a simple diy, I dont think I want to scrap the controller, rather just sell it to get a few more dollars back in this build :).
Click to expand...

that's an even better idea, but if you're like me, you couldn't sell the Jebao controller for what the replacement pieces would cost LOL

do like doughboy said in the post above, if you don't want or need the quick disconnect, clip the wires and splice them together, but solder and shrink tube the splices so they will get good connection and won't corrode over time....

there's a few posts I've seen around the forums of which wire goes where, doughboy may even have a pic of it, I've redone mine to connect to the chauvet but don't remember what color each wire was, I just remember that it was 3 wires and 1 was ground for the other 2 LOL

if you have any doubt, it's easy to remove the cover from the Jebao controller and see which wire connects to the power supply positive and which is ground, the center pin from the power supply connector is the positive, the ground wire connects to the outer portion of the power connector and you can trace it to the circuit board where the ground wire comes in from the pump wire, the remaining wire is the PWM those colors should correspond with the wire colors of the pump side of the connector
 
Also, I just bought a Hydor Smart Level ATO. Would there be a way to just take it apart and use the sensor and board from it to control an outlet accordingly?
 
Adkins.its said:
Would a American DJ SRP8 work just the same as the Chauvet?
Click to expand...

I had the same question, in which Doughboy already answered for me:

Code: 
There is no room inside DJ, due to all the wiring to the switches

I suppose it could work if you make the rest of your controller inside a different case though.
 
Well I was just wondering because I need to use 16 outlets. What I was going to do is draw up a new case in Inventor and then laser cut it out of like 16 or 14 ga and the bend it up.
 
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