Hi, d0ughb0y, thank you for your selfless sharing. I prepared my own DIY reef controller but I have just started learning Arduino and my English level is not good. Please spare your precious time for me to do a DIY tutorial (for example, the file is downloaded to the 2560, the file is on the SD card, the database file in the path and so on), thank you for your selfless teaching.mobile web interface
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My Neptune Apex web interface compatible DIY reef controller
- Thread starter d0ughb0y
- Start date
Hi, d0ughb0y, thank you for your selfless sharing. I prepared my own DIY reef controller but I have just started learning Arduino and my English level is not good. Please spare your precious time for me to do a DIY tutorial (for example, the file is downloaded to the 2560, the file is on the SD card, the database file in the path and so on), thank you for your selfless teaching.
Moomin1967
New member
Not wishing to speak on behalf of D0ughb0y, but this should get you moving forward.
https://github.com/d0ughb0y/Chauvet16
Bests
I have now connected the shield and lcd but I get sd error but then it continues to the end and displays temp etc but I can't connect to the controller. If i add my separate sd reader to pin 4 I get sd Ok but then it stops everything, even if I disconnect the shields pin 4.
I have tried different settings in the configuration file etc but cannot for the life of me get it to work. If i log onto my router, I cannot see the controller attached, it doesn't show 192.168.2.15 or the mac address.
I have added a http webserver item in the firewall on the router and forwarded it to the ip address I assigned to the controller as well.
Any thoughts where I might be going wrong? Should the sd card be fat or fat32 etc?
Thanks in advance
d0ughb0y
Active member
did you change the ROUTER_IP and DNS_IP to match your actual router ip address and your ISP dns server ip address?
You can test SD functionality by running the test programs that comes with the SdFat library.
format should either be fat16 or fat32 depending on your sd card size.
You can test SD functionality by running the test programs that comes with the SdFat library.
format should either be fat16 or fat32 depending on your sd card size.
d0ughb0y
Active member
I got the active buzzer I ordered and it sounds better than the passive buzzer. The previous one I was using was from Tayda electronics and is quite larger and literally wakes up everyone in the house when alarm goes off in the middle of the night.
These are smaller ones
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390913327020?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
you can get fewer than 10 and cheaper from China.
These are smaller ones
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390913327020?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
you can get fewer than 10 and cheaper from China.
Found our the shield wasn't connecting well to the icsp header. Now it boots fine and webserver is up but not accepting user and password set in the sketch using your method. Could it be something simple I have missed? I am getting the login prompt.
Just wanted to say thank you for this project d0ughb0y. I'm impressed.
I'm currently preparing to purchase a tank and wanted to get this project going. I've ordered the parts and look forward to putting it together. Hopefully, I'll be able to contribute back in the future. One thing I'm considering is integrating Twilio for SMS alerts.
I'm not sure if it has been mentioned already in this thread (I haven't read every comment), but the Chauvet sr8 has been discontinued. I couldn't find a reasonably priced unit online, but my research shows that there seem to be several companies selling the same piece of hardware with their own branding. I've ordered an ADJ SRP8 to try.
Cheers,
Marc
I'm currently preparing to purchase a tank and wanted to get this project going. I've ordered the parts and look forward to putting it together. Hopefully, I'll be able to contribute back in the future. One thing I'm considering is integrating Twilio for SMS alerts.
I'm not sure if it has been mentioned already in this thread (I haven't read every comment), but the Chauvet sr8 has been discontinued. I couldn't find a reasonably priced unit online, but my research shows that there seem to be several companies selling the same piece of hardware with their own branding. I've ordered an ADJ SRP8 to try.
Cheers,
Marc
Last edited:
d0ughb0y
Active member
I ordered a couple of these chips to test
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=TD62783APGJS&WT.z_header=search_go
these are like the PNP version of ULN2803.
If this works, there will be one final circuit change to use this. Using this will completely eliminate using transistors and resistors. I can't understand the datasheet. it says max 500ma output/channel current. Then under operating range says it is 59ma/channel at 50% duty cycle. For fan, it will be running at 100% duty cycle, and the fan requires 100-150ma.
If it does not work, I have tested using ULN2003 with pnp transistor and this setup works. This will minimize discrete components to just the ones used to drive the pwm fans.
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=TD62783APGJS&WT.z_header=search_go
these are like the PNP version of ULN2803.
If this works, there will be one final circuit change to use this. Using this will completely eliminate using transistors and resistors. I can't understand the datasheet. it says max 500ma output/channel current. Then under operating range says it is 59ma/channel at 50% duty cycle. For fan, it will be running at 100% duty cycle, and the fan requires 100-150ma.
If it does not work, I have tested using ULN2003 with pnp transistor and this setup works. This will minimize discrete components to just the ones used to drive the pwm fans.
Don't worry, got it logging in now. Getting exited now as I can finally see my controller coming together
Now I can start fitting it in the housing I bought... Yay
StillLearning06
New member
Hey D0ughb0y, what is the purpose of the second ato float? The reason I ask is that my controller keeps stalling and noticed it was because my relay for the ato kicks on and off (because of the minor fluctuations in my water level).
Also how do I calibrate the ato reservoir sonar. It keeps giving me incorrect values. I measured the total distance in my res from 0 to 100% in centimeters and the distance from what I want to be absolute full to the sonar shield with no resolve.
Thanks in advance.
Also how do I calibrate the ato reservoir sonar. It keeps giving me incorrect values. I measured the total distance in my res from 0 to 100% in centimeters and the distance from what I want to be absolute full to the sonar shield with no resolve.
Thanks in advance.
StillLearning06 -
The second ATO Sensor is a failsafe if for any reason the first one would go bad. This way you don't over flow your sump.
As for the ATO locking up, did you install the MOV over the outlet? I did not originally and was having the exact same issue as you. It was the load of the motor causing it to lock things up. Typically only would happen in a low state, but would randomly do it at other stages as well.
Also to calibrate look under controller setup ---> misc... you will see the live reading of the sonar sensor. Empty your container and see what it reads, write that down, then fill it to where you want 100% write that value down. Then all you need to do is update the values on the page and do a save.
Make sure you update your sketch as well to keep those values for future use.
The second ATO Sensor is a failsafe if for any reason the first one would go bad. This way you don't over flow your sump.
As for the ATO locking up, did you install the MOV over the outlet? I did not originally and was having the exact same issue as you. It was the load of the motor causing it to lock things up. Typically only would happen in a low state, but would randomly do it at other stages as well.
Also to calibrate look under controller setup ---> misc... you will see the live reading of the sonar sensor. Empty your container and see what it reads, write that down, then fill it to where you want 100% write that value down. Then all you need to do is update the values on the page and do a save.
Make sure you update your sketch as well to keep those values for future use.
StillLearning06
New member
Thanks SorsCode.
My ato is a dosing pump. The reason I chose to use that instead of a normal impeller type pump is,
First: it has literally no draw.
Second: this way it can't create a siphon if by some chance there is a failure.
Third: there isn't a a rapid change in salinity.
My ato is a dosing pump. The reason I chose to use that instead of a normal impeller type pump is,
First: it has literally no draw.
Second: this way it can't create a siphon if by some chance there is a failure.
Third: there isn't a a rapid change in salinity.
StillLearning06
New member
Does it matter that ato res is a square container?
It would be really nice if the second float only came in tho play when my skimmer is off. This way when it turns back on my float 1 doesn't drop immediately and simultaneously turning my ato on.
It would be really nice if the second float only came in tho play when my skimmer is off. This way when it turns back on my float 1 doesn't drop immediately and simultaneously turning my ato on.
d0ughb0y
Active member
Did you install the second ato higher than the first ato? it should be out of the water. The operation of the second ato is independent of the skimmer. If you turn off the skimmer, the rise in water should be enough for the first/lower ato to make sure the ato pump does not come on.
as to the sonar, the distance is reverse. when the reservoir is full, the water level distance to the sonar will be the shortest. Hence in the sonar setup, the value to the left must be larger than the value to the right, and the alert value should typically be 1 or 2 cm less than the low value.
make sure you are running the latest code. The previous codes I made a change in sonar that made it slow to update. The latest code fixes that.
d0ughb0y
Active member
I got the source driver chip today and tested it. It does not work well. The Vce is too high, like 7 volts, leaving the fan with only 5 volts. From the datasheet circuit diagram, the driver does not use pnp transistor for output. I think that is why this chip is not as popular as the uln2003 npn driver chip.
So the circuit that will use the least component now is a ULN2003 to drive the 4 dosing pumps, and drive the 3 pwm fans via 3 PNP transistors (with one base resistor and one diode). The BC328 pnp should be able to handle up to 500ma.
So the circuit that will use the least component now is a ULN2003 to drive the 4 dosing pumps, and drive the 3 pwm fans via 3 PNP transistors (with one base resistor and one diode). The BC328 pnp should be able to handle up to 500ma.
StillLearning06
New member
Yes the second float is higher than float #1 and is out of the water. As far as my earlier statement, I was meaning when my skimmer kicks on, the area of water which my return pump and float is drops and hence my ato also kicks on because of the amount of water my skimmer pulls in.
I just recently downloaded the new code and started working on it and hope to get ît going soon. Thanks again for your help.
Krazie4Acans
New member
Doughboy when you update the github do you update the download zip so that it has the latest files in it? I was working on a new computer that wasn't setup to do a get and so I downloaded the zip. Just wanted to make sure I got the latest files by doing that. Krazie :jester:
d0ughb0y
Active member
ok, I see.
You actually need to set your lower float switch to a lower level such that when the skimmer is on, the float switch is still closed. Only when enough water evaporates to lower the level, then the ato pump with turn on. When you turn off the skimmer, the water level will rise higher than the lower float switch, so your ato pump will remain off.
The float switch status is checked once per second. If you find that your water level is too turbulent such that it makes the float switch switch too often (at most is once per second), you may want to check out float switch with "slosh guard". (its like the float switch is inside a container) I know you can get them from Grainger.
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