My new 600 gallon reef
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Goodwin9
Premium Member
Now for the bad news, I pipes below the large reactor were darn near plugged shut. I'm pretty sure that was the main reason the pump stopped running. I cleaned the magnet and there wasn't much in the way of scoring from the material inside the pump.
I found where the water was leaking from. Right below the top of the large reactor cylinder 2" along the cylinder has let loose from the top. Poor picture, but you can get the idea of where this is separated.
I am going to try and fix this by running a bead of Weldon both on the inside and outside of the cylinder. This should be interesting as my only experience in gluing things back together was 40 some years ago building model airplanes....
Anyone with a little more recent experience might chime in here and give suggestions before I attempt this........
I am a little surprised that pressure could build up enough to cause this to let go.
I found where the water was leaking from. Right below the top of the large reactor cylinder 2" along the cylinder has let loose from the top. Poor picture, but you can get the idea of where this is separated.
I am going to try and fix this by running a bead of Weldon both on the inside and outside of the cylinder. This should be interesting as my only experience in gluing things back together was 40 some years ago building model airplanes....
Anyone with a little more recent experience might chime in here and give suggestions before I attempt this........
I am a little surprised that pressure could build up enough to cause this to let go.
melev
Well-known member
Acrylic seams can separate on a whim, but where that occurred almost looks expected. It may not have been a perfect match in the first place, and once the plumbing clogged up, the PSI within got higher and higher until a weak spot gave.
You can clean the area well with some acetone. Don't go crazy with the stuff, apply it with a q-tip. Then if you have a way to do so, apply some #16 in the crack and then use something heavy to press the reactor together so it will cure tightly. You can apply a thin bead on the inside and outside of the crack. Crazing will occur, and is unavoidable.
Do not use it like caulk. More is not better, because as it cures and shrinks down by 33%, it can make craters. Better to apply a thin bead (1/16") than a blob.
You can clean the area well with some acetone. Don't go crazy with the stuff, apply it with a q-tip. Then if you have a way to do so, apply some #16 in the crack and then use something heavy to press the reactor together so it will cure tightly. You can apply a thin bead on the inside and outside of the crack. Crazing will occur, and is unavoidable.
Do not use it like caulk. More is not better, because as it cures and shrinks down by 33%, it can make craters. Better to apply a thin bead (1/16") than a blob.
kau_cinta_ku
New member
isn't the weld on 16 more like the superglue gel rather than the watery stuff?
I can't beleive how much pressure that reactor must have had in order to crack that. you would thing one of the fittings like the probe holder or such would have gave out faster.
BTW very shiney vacume. but wearing out the old one isn't a good sign.
I can't beleive how much pressure that reactor must have had in order to crack that. you would thing one of the fittings like the probe holder or such would have gave out faster.
BTW very shiney vacume. but wearing out the old one isn't a good sign.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12858645#post12858645 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kau_cinta_ku
isn't the weld on 16 more like the superglue gel rather than the watery stuff?
I can't beleive how much pressure that reactor must have had in order to crack that. you would thing one of the fittings like the probe holder or such would have gave out faster.
BTW very shiney vacume. but wearing out the old one isn't a good sign.
There was probably an imperfection and the increased pressure just exploited the weak spot. I dabble with acrylic from time to time, even built my 1st 600 gallon myself out of acrylic. I find there is very little room for error, and the seems will break all at once instead of the usual small leak you can fix with glass and silicone.
Goodwin9
Premium Member
This was like a super glue gel, set up real fast, Haven't filled it yet to see if it worked. I guess if the water can't get out the way it is supposed to, it has to find a different way. I first thought that it was coming out the top, (screws not tight enough).<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12858645#post12858645 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kau_cinta_ku
isn't the weld on 16 more like the superglue gel rather than the watery stuff?
I can't beleive how much pressure that reactor must have had in order to crack that. you would thing one of the fittings like the probe holder or such would have gave out faster.
BTW very shiney vacume. but wearing out the old one isn't a good sign.
Actually, my old shop vac still works, but the wheels have broken off and I am tired of lugging it around. This one has some nice wheels on it, PLUS a drain in the front which my other one didn't have. I got tired of carrying it around and lifting it up over the sink. For some reason, it seems that I use it a lot.....
Goodwin9
Premium Member
I thought about it being metal but it has a five year warranty. (I wonder if that covers rust through???)<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12859580#post12859580 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO LIFT THAT GIANT ONE ANYWAY!I go through about one per year, but have stayed away from the metal ones.
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