My new A. bicinctus

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Do you use copper? Or formalin for brook?

I usually don't use copper. The only exception would be an Amyloodinium infection of fish that can't handle CP.

Hypersalinity is IME the better measure against Cryptocaryon. For tiny fish like pipefish and small gobies, I generally do TTM

Formalin dips are still the best measure against brook, but formalin gets harder to find these days.
 
The bicinctus decided to accept the magnifica after all:

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I usually don't use copper. The only exception would be an Amyloodinium infection of fish that can't handle CP.



Hypersalinity is IME the better measure against Cryptocaryon. For tiny fish like pipefish and small gobies, I generally do TTM



Formalin dips are still the best measure against brook, but formalin gets harder to find these days.



I've actually never tried hypersalinity but I just picked up an extra auto top off so I'll be doing it this time.
 
The bicinctus decided to accept the magnifica after all:

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Nice! How big of a tank are you keeping them in?


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I've actually never tried hypersalinity but I just picked up an extra auto top off so I'll be doing it this time.
I would never use an auto top off during hyposalinity. The risk of accidentally going too low and harming the fish is just too high.
Evaporation during hyposalinity is really not the issue people imagine it to be. Keep in mind that you would need to evaporate about 3 times the volume of water at 1.009 to get a 0.001 change than you would need to evaporate to get the same change at 1.026.
A lid is generally completely sufficient to keep the salinity in the therapeutic range.
With the bicinctus I didn't even have to add RO water between the weekly water changes.

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I would never use an auto top off during hyposalinity. The risk of accidentally going too low and harming the fish is just too high.
Evaporation during hyposalinity is really not the issue people imagine it to be. Keep in mind that you would need to evaporate about 3 times the volume of water at 1.009 to get a 0.001 change than you would need to evaporate to get the same change at 1.026.
A lid is generally completely sufficient to keep the salinity in the therapeutic range.
With the bicinctus I didn't even have to add RO water between the weekly water changes.

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Ohh. I've read that with hypo there's a big margin for error and a top off would keep it at therapeutic levels, that's why I never really tried it but you are right, the risk is much greater for the fish with a top off and it's kinda being lazy on the keepers part. Thanks for the info, now I feel it's much easier than from what I've been reading. [emoji106]


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Looks like Amphiprion bicinctus can also be found in S. haddoni in the wild.
These pictures were taken in the Red Sea, Egypt:

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Another one Allen & Fautin missed...
 
The magnifica is completely bleached and doesn't show any sign of zooxanthellae being left in it. It is also not eating the food I give it. So I'm trying if zooxanthellae from a Xenia might transfer over to it via direct contact:

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I had this work back in 1983 with a totally bleached crispa and a neighboring Anthelia colony. The crispa started coloring up from the tentacles that had frequent contact with the Anthelia and after a couple of weeks it was completely back to normal color.
 
Added a little support for the Xenia. Now it has closer contact with the Magnifica and it actually seems the anemone is seeking the contact.

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I guess it could take a couple of weeks to see if this works or not...
 
I usually get it from my wife when she visits her family in Taiwan ;)
But Thomas Labs sells it under the name Fish Sulpha, so you should be able to get it through a well stocked fish store or directly from them. You could get it quick and easy on Amazon before, but they removed it because some people who couldn't afford to see a doctor were getting it for themselves...

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Hi ThRoewer,

What dosage do you use with the Septra for your anemonefish? Just what is on the label?

Thanks!
Mark
 
Hi ThRoewer,

What dosage do you use with the Septra for your anemonefish? Just what is on the label?

Thanks!
Mark
I don't really know what the label prescribes.
I usually dose 1 tablet ("forte" strength) on 50 liter (or, if treating in a 10 gallon tank, just 1 tablet for the tank.)
I got that dosage from a fellow Reefer in Germany who was a veterinarian.

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I
 
A. bicinctus?

A. bicinctus?

This specimen look very different than my bicinctus pair. Very narrow stripes.
 
Last edited:
This specimen look very different than my bicinctus pair. Very narrow stripes.
I would say that is still within the normal variance.
Also, it lacks other omanensis traits like white tail fin or a particularly dark body coloration.

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bicinctus

bicinctus

I would say that is still within the normal variance.
Also, it lacks other omanensis traits like white tail fin or a particularly dark body coloration.

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Yes, I would agree. This specimen was one of a dozen from a Red Sea shipment (no specific location was provided) last November. All but two had the normal wide stripes. I bought the two even though one had an injury to its lower jaw. That one did not make it. I also picked up what I hoped would be a pair and indeed they are bonded together now for about 5 months. The female of the pair is over 5 inches in total length. It took me several months to condition the bicinctus and needed to do several treatments with Paragaurd and copper. I'm waiting for my wholesaler to get a small bicinctus to pair with the thin line female. I haven't figured out how to post video directly to a post so I'll have to use YouTube links.
 
Mertensii

Mertensii

The big question to solve now is which anemone to pick for my 3 bicinctus.
These are their natural hosts (I left H. aurora away as it is more of a "nursery anemone" for juveniles than a suitable host for breeding pairs.)

E. quadricolor (I got a small RBTA clone and a tiny green from DD, but those are earmarked for my little latezonatus so I would need to get more and larger ones)
H. magnifica (kind of difficult to find)
H. crispa (I have a tiny one that would need a lot of TLC and some time to grow into a suitable host for these rather large fish)
S. gigantea (kind of hard to get right now and I rather keep those for my percula)
S. mertensii (not sure if I can get one and if, I'd rather keep it for a pair of allardi)

On the other hand, I have a "surplus" of 3 medium sized S. haddoni (a green, a marbled, and a purple) and haddoni are kind of easy to get and "cheap".

DD has a S. mertensii available now.
 
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