My New Hairy Horse

I may not be very experienced in the seahorse world, but I have a Clown Tang, and they can be very aggressive. They also get very large. My Clown Tang can be as aggressive as my Blueline trigger.
 
I had the same concern regarding the clown tang.
I asked around and those that mixed fish with seahorses were of the opinion that the clown tang, naso, chevron, & gold rim tang would most likely leave the seahorses alone - or the tang will need to be removed.
In hindsight I wish I had gone with a small gold rim - as they do not grow quickly.
My clown tang is a bit of a spaz and will at times swim very fast all over the tank with no regard.
He has been in there for one month. At this point my primary concern for the seahorses is being trampled during the tang's occasional swim fest.
I've had lots of tangs over the years - some were not even considered - like the yellow tang, blue tang, kole,,,,IME these tend to bully all fish - not just the algae grazers. At some point I will need to remove the clown tang - as my tank is only 90 gallons. I will post the good and the bad regarding my experiences.
 
I have visited seahorse.org. The safe vs not safe list does not appear to differentiate between new born seahorses, pygmy, captive bred, large seahorses, or tank size.
The ratings appear to be based on opinions and they do not disclose the exact issue.
There was a blanket rating of 4 for all tangs - the basis may be very different from one genus of tang to different genus. The yellow tang I would assume just kills the seahorse. While the clown tang may out compete the seahorse for food. My CB reidi's are very aggressive at feeding time and get plenty to eat - while wild caught would likely get no food due to their very slow eating behavior.
The most dangerous item in my tank -IMO is the arrow crab - but without him the seahorses would have died from eating bristle worms. I literally had to remove two seahorses to extract worms from their mouths. I plan to remove the crab in one month and put him in my sump to address the worms down there and add a small wrasse to address any baby worms that my still be in the main display. I would rate my blue legged hermits the second biggest threat - I have seen them clamp down on the seahorse tail and get hauled around the tank. The blue legged hermit crabs are almost all gone. I would rate my Potters angel as being safer than my CB perc. The Potters angel totally ignores the seahorses, so I am not clear why that fish was deemed a serious threat level on their site - not sure if it is a case of guilty by association.
*
The reidi - are doing great - but I did loose one shortly after the hairy horse died -it appears to have gotten sick, no visible wounds, marks or fungus.
Once the arrow crab is relocated I plan to add a few more CB reidi seahorses.
 
The seahorse.org tankmates list is for adult large species seahorses only. It does not reflect any opinions at all on fry, or on dwarf seahorses. All ratings are of the assumption that you would have a large enough tank for the tankmate in question; though some ratings do reflect the generally poor survival rate, regardless of environment, of some fish species. As for explanations for the ratings, you'll have to read the introduction to the tankmate guide to get an explanation for what each rating means. The tankmates guide *is* based on opinion, you're right about that. How else would you expect it to be written? Fish don't exactly tell us what their intentions are. So, opinion and personal experience of many seahorse keepers is about the best you're going to get, don't you think?
As for the arrow crab, I agree, that and the blue leg hermits are not excellent ideas. It worries me that you had your seahorses try to eat bristleworms on two occasions though. Are they trying to feed off the mysis that has settled to the bottom of the tank that may have bristleworms feeding on it? Or are they actually getting that hungry between feedings? That might be something to consider. Even without bristleworms, you still really don't want your seahorses feeding off the bottom if you can help it. Bacteria and ciliates become more of a problem then.
The tangs, aside from being territorial and beating the seahorses up, are algae eaters. Algae eaters can become a problem for seahorses because seahorses tend to grow algae on themselves, sometimes even in otherwise algae-free tanks. They don't appreciate being picked at either, it stresses them a great deal (which is why cleaner shrimp are also not rated as excellent tankmates). So, that is another consideration to think of with tangs.

HTH
 
Last edited:
This may be a stupid question, and I have no seahorse experience to offer (I do plan on tank #2 being a seahorse tank) but isn't it a problem keeping the fish and seahorses together because of temperature. I thought you had to keep them in the lower 70's and I wouldn't think the tropical fish would be comfortable.
 
It worries me too that they would even try to eat bristle worms. On one occasion I was able to witness the event. The seahorse bit it from the live rock. I have a good amount of live rock and a refugium and I have seen them eat live critters rather frequently. I think it may have been a case of mistaken identity. Regardless - eating bristle worms is bad. They are strange eaters - and won't eat frozen food once it hits the sand.
I didn't think about the algae growing on the seahorse being a problem. I currently don't have that situation. Thanks for the tip on the cleaner shrimp. If I see the tang pick on a seahorse - the tang will be removed. One interesting behavior I have noticed with my seahorses is that they will occasionally lay against the intake of the Korallia power heads. It is clearly intentional and I have wondered if it is done as a way clean themselves of unwanted guests.
 
muttley, the fish that I keep with my seahorses have no trouble at 72-74 degrees. Most tropical fish can handle those temperatures fine. Deeper water, and cooler seasons can both bring those temperatures, and the lower temperatures also have the added benefits of fewer pathogens and better oxygen saturation.
steelcaveman, I'm not sure I'd be 100% on it being mistaken identity. Many keepers (like me) have LR and 'fuges. I'd be more inclined to think they were going after food that the bristleworm was also going after. But, that being said, seahorses in captivity win the Darwin award for fish. I've had to unstuff one of my seahorse's snouts after it got a large peppermint shrimp carapace covered in mini britlestars lodged in it's snout. So, it could just be poor judgement... The aquarium environment is definitely different from their natural habitat, afterall.
As for them being strange eaters because they won't eat settled food, it isn't strange. They don't eat settled food in the wild, and, like I said before, settled food isn't good for them, so you're actually lucking out with some good instincts in that regard.
 
This may be a stupid question, and I have no seahorse experience to offer (I do plan on tank #2 being a seahorse tank) but isn't it a problem keeping the fish and seahorses together because of temperature. I thought you had to keep them in the lower 70's and I wouldn't think the tropical fish would be comfortable.

I keep my water at 77 - 78.
I've heard the same thing and different reasons as to why.
I am not the best to answer this question.
I do know that many corals do not like temperatures under 77, that is the main reason my tank is at 77-78 and not cooler.
 
This may be a stupid question, and I have no seahorse experience to offer (I do plan on tank #2 being a seahorse tank) but isn't it a problem keeping the fish and seahorses together because of temperature. I thought you had to keep them in the lower 70's and I wouldn't think the tropical fish would be comfortable.

Horses can be kept at the same temps as other fish. The problem is that above 75 many of the seahorse diseases will propagate making which increases the risk of infection heavily. It's not a problem in the ocean (much better filtration) but that's why everyone recommends keeping tanks below 75. It's not that the seahorses can't survive, you're just risking a disease coming in at some point.

As for tropical fish, they do prefer the higher temp. However, if you look at the temps in ocean reefs they'll range a bit below 70 in the winter. I keep my tank around 74 with no issues on the corals opening/growing and that keeps it cool enough for seahorses as well. There is a middle ground.
 
sh

sh

it is a erectus, here is a pic of mine as well, and sorry to say but keep fish to control algea should be last thought, but better husbandry, or put marco algea in the tank. here is my ap24g little over a year old, done 4 water changes and clean the glass once a month, only other fish in the tank are a pair of yellow watchman gobies, some hermits, snails a cb shrimp and a pistol shrimp
 

Attachments

  • nano 9-29-09 781.jpg
    nano 9-29-09 781.jpg
    65.2 KB · Views: 9
it is a erectus, here is a pic of mine as well, and sorry to say but keep fish to control algea should be last thought, but better husbandry, or put marco algea in the tank. here is my ap24g little over a year old, done 4 water changes and clean the glass once a month, only other fish in the tank are a pair of yellow watchman gobies, some hermits, snails a cb shrimp and a pistol shrimp

Cool Seahorse!

RE: husbandry - I have been "trying" to keep non photosynthetic corals - which equates to feeding at least four times per day - but usually about 6 times per day. My nitrates and phosphates read zero, but for some reason I have had trouble keeping Macro alive long term in my sump - cross my fingers - I've managed to keep some parrot feather alive for one month! I have some rather expensive corals that I occasionally frag to pay for all of my expenses related to this hobby. The algae was effecting the corals and it was either lose the corals, lose the seahorses, or add some fish. I went with the later.
The ideal would be to have a seahorse only tank - but the wife nixed that idea. I have also decided to nix the non photosynthetic corals, upgrade my lighting, and change out some corals. Plus the room housing the tank has two glass walls - basically it gets too much sun light. This shift in environment should help with nutrient levels. I did consider the well being of the seahorses when choosing the fish, albeit I didn't give much weight to the rating on the seahorse.org site. I actually had a potters with three seahorses for over one year and never had a problem in my prior tank. I made the mistake of selling him when I decided to have only seahorses and pipefish

The clown tang has been a good boy for the past four weeks so I am hopeful. I have had zero issues with the Potters Angel. The prior post noted the issue of algae growing on the seahorses that I did not consider and may result in a removing of the clown and potters. The other option is to find a good home for the seahorses.
 
the macro you see in the background is filled in the tank, literally have to trim it every other week, if you have it in your sump make sure the light u are using is of the right spectrum. makes a huge difference, i tried having clowns in the tank also but then i had to feed a ton more, i think having enough and proper cuc helps alot with the ability to feed a little more, the flow is real low in the tank so that the food kinda just floats around maming it easier for sh to catch and get some, reason i liked the gobies is because they catch and grab all the food going lower, said part is my reef which has all the bells and whistle's is more work then the tank i do nothing to but top off water and feed
 
I'm sorry that you had to give up your horses. They are a lot of work and it you are not prepared for it, it takes the enjoyment out of it. I am glad that you got to enjoy them for a little while though....
 
Ha ha ha. This guy started off so angry about the seahorse police. And then ended up with no seahorses. Ha ha ha. This was the best read ever. Thanks dudes.

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk
 
I see nothing funny about it.
Some people need a bit more time to realize things but at least acceptance of the fact meant the seahorse had another chance elsewhere.
I don't know about you, but I've been in the seahorse hobby for about 15 yrs now and I'm still learning all the time as the hobby evolves.
 
Back
Top