My new hatchery (56k beware)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6753063#post6753063 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BlackOnyx
are you using any mech and chem filtration? Any LR?

There are two 100 micron filter socks in the the sump for the mechanical filtration. In these I can put some carbon when needed. There is no live rock or sand in the system.
 
I am very new to the concept of a hatchery, but is 2 filter bags going to hold enough bacteria for filtration of a system that large?

How often and how large are the water changes that you plan on making?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6754819#post6754819 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BlackOnyx
Yeah how are you going to hold any bacteria then in bare bottom tanks?

Probably he does'nt need too much bacteria to colonise his system, especially with his ASM running. :rollface:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6755434#post6755434 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FuEl
Probably he does'nt need too much bacteria to colonise his system, especially with his ASM running. :rollface:

I'm running 2 fluidized bed sand filters on it. Each one is rated for 900 gallons so I should have plenty. If not I'll add a bio-tower.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6757803#post6757803 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BlackOnyx
bio tower???

u think they will keep your nirates in check?

It's like a tall wet dry with only the dry part. I take a 4' piece of 6" pvc and fill it with bioballs. Water enter the top and flows down over the bioballs and exits the bottom.

Will it keep nitrates down? No, that's what water changes are for.
 
Just out of curiosity how many fish do you think you'll be able to produce over any given time period with that setup when running at full capacity?

Just a ballpark would be cool.


Thanks.
 
This is a very impressive hatchery!
I have a smaller system on a table top stand, but I am thinking about setting up another on shelving, so I am following your story with interest!

Show us a picture of the closed loop when you get a chance. I've always wondered about those.
 
a bio tower is what he is describing, a pvc pipe full of bio balls , I used 2- 4" diameter 5' long pvc pipes, the two at the left side, not good pic but it gives an idea, sorry Kathy, putting together something soon...

It is basically a nitrate factory, but all bio filters are.

61742th.JPG


Ed
 
Ammonia and nitrite are a LOT more toxic than nitrate.

Bio tower, bioballs, biowheel, all versions of wet/dry filtering convert ammonia and nitrite(poisonous) to nitrate (vitually harmless, but stimulator of algae growth).

Nitrate can be diluted/removed with water changes. Nitrate is not the primary concern in a "breeder setup".

Ammonia is. We are not growing corals, we are feeding a lot of fish.


I am not going to spend hundreds to remove nitrate, when I am changing a lot of water daily, anyway. JMO.

Cheers,
Kathy
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6765499#post6765499 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kathy55g
Ammonia and nitrite are a LOT more toxic than nitrate.

Bio tower, bioballs, biowheel, all versions of wet/dry filtering convert ammonia and nitrite(poisonous) to nitrate (vitually harmless, but stimulator of algae growth).

Nitrate can be diluted/removed with water changes. Nitrate is not the primary concern in a "breeder setup".

Ammonia is. We are not growing corals, we are feeding a lot of fish.


I am not going to spend hundreds to remove nitrate, when I am changing a lot of water daily, anyway. JMO.

Cheers,
Kathy

Kathy, while I understand your point of view, I think you are greatly under estimating nitrate and is costs.

The two biggest recurring costs in breeding SW fish are water and food. If you have to change water all the time, you are wasting money, time and effort that could be better spent elsewhere.

In the long run a breeder is making a very good investment by dealing with nitrates without having to change water.
 
Wow, I took a couple of days off, and there are lots of questions. :D I'll try to answer them the best I can.

This is a very impressive hatchery!
I have a smaller system on a table top stand, but I am thinking about setting up another on shelving, so I am following your story with interest!

Show us a picture of the closed loop when you get a chance. I've always wondered about those.

Kathy,

I had been following your thread and getting ideas there. :) The hole saw I needed to drill holes in the closed loop pipe just got here today, so hopefully I can get to work on it this weekend, and I'll post some pictures.



Just out of curiosity how many fish do you think you'll be able to produce over any given time period with that setup when running at full capacity?

chasekwe,

That I'm really not sure. It's not going to be as high as you might think. The reason I'm building this is not to mass produce fish, but more for research. I want to focus on fish that are not currently bred by companies like ORA and ProAquatixs, and hopefully help to expand the number of captive bred fish that are offered to us in the hobby.

I do plan to keep a few regular breeding pairs to hopefully help offset some of the expenses of this project (I've got four Akindynos Clowns in quarantine now), but most of the other breeding pairs will rotate in and out.



paOol,

and i thought i was krazy using a 60 gallon to breed clowns o_O.you are nuts mahng.

Not nuts, I just love what I do.



BlackOnyx,

Water changes? I stopped doing those long ago and everything just keeps on growing. I just had trace elements every now and then.

I'm sorry.




Ammonia and nitrite are a LOT more toxic than nitrate.

Bio tower, bioballs, biowheel, all versions of wet/dry filtering convert ammonia and nitrite(poisonous) to nitrate (vitually harmless, but stimulator of algae growth).

Nitrate can be diluted/removed with water changes. Nitrate is not the primary concern in a "breeder setup".

Ammonia is. We are not growing corals, we are feeding a lot of fish.


I am not going to spend hundreds to remove nitrate, when I am changing a lot of water daily, anyway. JMO.

Cheers,
Kathy

Kathy,

I'm with you. Regular partial water changes should be done, however, I am looking at ways to cut down on the size of the water changes. On my system a 10% water change in about 80 gallons and I've still got to add the growout system. Even at wholesale prices this is going to get very expensive very quick.

The way I'm setting the system up now I will control nitrate with water changes, then I'm going to start experminting with other ideas such as a large Remote Deep Sand Bed, sulphur denitrators, etc. I don't plan on doing away with regular water changes, I just want to strike a balance between water quality and expenses.


In the long run a breeder is making a very good investment by dealing with nitrates without having to change water.

JHardman,

Care to share some tips?
 
Sounds very smart to me to put some time into the fish that are not commonly bred. If the day comes when we can no longer pull fish from the ocean to decorate our tanks, knowing how to breed something other than clownfish will be invaluable, in more ways than monetarily.

I, too, am interested in ways to reduce nitrate. But if one doesn't take care of ammonia, one has bigger problems than nusiance algae. That was my point above.
Cheers,
Kathy
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6766817#post6766817 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kathy55g

I, too, am interested in ways to reduce nitrate. But if one doesn't take care of ammonia, one has bigger problems than nusiance algae. That was my point above.
Cheers,
Kathy

Oh, I know. If you don't take care of the ammonia you won't have to worry about the nitrates. My reply was really a combination of your post and JHardmans post. What I was really trying to point out was that I think water changes are important but there does need to be some research into ways to reduce the nitrate load in the water other than just by water changes.
 
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