my new idea on breeding clown tanks

gemini aquarius(t)

Always Learning
well my idea was based on less energy, less electricity, less space, more tanks and a central filtration system
so here it is

a single 55 gallon(per pair)- divided into 5 parts(4x 10 gallon sections and a 15 gallon section for broodtock(over flow in this area)


a 30 gallon long sump-witha fuge area, a skimmer area. a poly-pad area(for bubbles) and a live rock area

an external pump- dont know what kind going back to the area with the oldest fry(getting them more used to reef tank flow!)

in the broodstock area you can make it in to a reef tank with extra live rock and live sand and maybe a anenome along with coral(BIG maybe).

heres my diagram(hope ot works)

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data...5clown_tank.jpg
 
Fixed link:

66275clown_tank.jpg


It's not going to work. Your fry tanks will quickly pollute any other tanks and need to be separate. Even growout tanks can pollute broodstock tanks, so at a minimum you need 3 systems -- even if they are only one tank each.

Also, oxygen is an issue as is maintaining rotifer and phyto density in the fry tanks. Any system with multiple tanks additionally needs to be able to be detached from the main system quickly with a minimum of fuss, so one tank can be treated with antibiotics, etc.

Typically fry tanks are standalone tanks, however sometimes they are just configured so they can be detached from the system, and then when the babies grow up, they are attached to the growout system. Using valves on your returns accomplishes this neatly.

Growout tanks, however, will be easier to maintain on a shared sump system like the above. If you are very careful, you might risk merging the broodstock and growout systems, and setting up the "fry" tanks physically as above but not sharing water until they are upgraded to growout tanks.
 
ok so if i kept ths idea and changed it so the grow out tanks tank over the fry tanks and got a seperate fry tank how big would this have to be

ohh and by the way the whole etting the fishused to the reef tank flow was your idea i would have completely overlooked this and sold them before they got a reef tank flow idea and they would die and i would be frustrated not knowing why so thanks
 
I would listen carefully to Nicole. She has a lot of experience in raising fry.

Be prepared to spend some $$ and lose your first few times, even with carful planning.
 
yeah i know about the money thing so i might have to sell my 20 gallon and live stock till i make a tiny bit of money for a new reef tank thats why i had the idea to make the broodstock tank a mini reef
 
*I* would listen to Edgar Diaz or John Hardman or Richard Reynolds. Particularly when they contradict me. :)

10g tanks for fry tanks are good. Initially you start with anywhere from 3-5 gallons (depending on the number of fry) and as they grow, increase the water volume. The smaller initial water volume helps you keep rotifer density up and water changes easier.

For ocellaris, 10-15g broodstock and growout tanks are fine.

When you are ready to start, let me know and I will sell you some of the supplies you need. Mostly you have to buy in bulk and then it goes bad before a small operation uses it all, so I'd be happy to make a little on my extra and you'd save big $ compared to all those FedEx overnight charges from the various suppliers.
 
66275clown_tank1.jpg


Do you have valves on each return so you can control the flow AND shut it off from the main system?

Do you have size appropriate grills on the overflows/drains? Say, 300um for larvae ready to go on the main system?

Do you have an air manifold and 4 airlines in each compartment (except broodstock), also on air valves?

How about heaters for the individual tanks, for when they are disconnected from the main system?

Finally, you'll need thermometers for each tank when shut off from the main system, and one for the main system. I also recommend at least one pH monitor for the main system and it's probably even more important for the larval tanks to have one. You can check manually a couple of times per day with a pen or by using a single monitor, but having an at-a-glance way to keep an eye on the pH is a big timesaver. Don't even think about pH test kits -- they'll cost a lot more very quickly.

Big downside -- no way to run UV on the fry and growout tanks, since you have a refugium. Also, a temp controller for the heater is highly recommended, and don't dare use anything but a high quality titanium heater.
 
Do you have valves on each return so you can control the flow AND shut it off from the main system?[/B]


yeah thats why the valves are there


Do you have size appropriate grills on the overflows/drains? Say, 300um for larvae ready to go on the main system?;[/B]


can get them when i set the tank up


Do you have an air manifold and 4 airlines in each compartment (except broodstock), also on air valves?[/B]


can do i have a ton of extra air pumps


How about heaters for the individual tanks, for when they are disconnected from the main system?[/B]


can do i have a ton of extra heaters around


Finally, you'll need thermometers for each tank when shut off from the main system, and one for the main system. I also recommend at least one pH monitor for the main system and it's probably even more important for the larval tanks to have one. You can check manually a couple of times per day with a pen or by using a single monitor, but having an at-a-glance way to keep an eye on the pH is a big timesaver. Don't even think about pH test kits -- they'll cost a lot more very quickly.[/B]


ok

Big downside -- no way to run UV on the fry and growout tanks, since you have a refugium. Also, a temp controller for the heater is highly recommended, and don't dare use anything but a high quality titanium heater. [/B]

OK
 
Don't run multiple airpumps, they'll be really noisy and eat you alive in elex costs. It's good to have spares, though. A Coralife Luft pump is about $50, is adjustable, is energy efficient and quiet, and hooked up to a manifold should be able to drive almost everything you need, depending on how many cutures you have going.
 
Are you talking about a bulkhead?

An air manifold has an air input and many air outputs. It's kind of like a gang valve, like the kinds they sell for FW folks to add bubbles to their tank, but on a much larger scale. Works just like a plumbing/water manifold.

I use 1/2" irrigation hose and make a "T," letting a tail hang down to collect any water, etc to help prevent mold in the lines. Use a punch (sold with the irrigation stuff) to punch a hole and snap a 1/4" irrigation connector in it. This is your air input and goes to an air check valve and then to the pump.

Then, punch into the hose anywhere you need adding 1/4" connectors. Run a couple of inches of airline tubing from the connectors to an air valve. They sell plastic ones in packages in the LFS, like from Lee. From the air valve, run more airline tubing to the airstone, sponge filter, rigid tubing, or whatever you are using on the air end. With the valves you can control air flow to each device, or cut off the air if you aren't using that port right now.
 
i should get my design on the computer so nicoleC can have a run down on it :) she sounds like shes been around awhile :)
 
Tell me about it, she even has a divorced pair. Ill be tagging along since Ill have a smaller version of a breeding system...

Current Tanks: Spawning Alpheus spp. pair shacked up with a spawning Cryptocentrus cinctus pair in 20g breeder, plumbed into a PC-lit 100g reef with a spawning A. ocellaris pair, spawning Assessor flavissimus harem (4) and a divorced Synchiropus ocellatus lady
 
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