My newest project...

I'm waiting to hear back on pricing & availability on the SEIO swivel mounts. I like the mount in Snarky's second picture better than the SEIO mount, but I'd already sent a couple of emails by the time I saw that picture, so I figured I'd post it anyway.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=829852&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

Also, this may be a stupid question, but do the rare earth magnets need to be coated with anything for use in the aquarium?
 
Nucca I don't know if you noticed this but the sch 80 will only work with the small mods the two larger props have to be made from the coupling.

I was hoping to show how to make housing at the party too.

Also moders have notice that if you Maxi is quite old it often can't push as large of a prop as a new one. If you guys are moding old MJ I would try out both props before we glued anything.
 
I has 11 sch80 couplings. I am still working on getting the sch80 tube. A buddy of mine is a plumber and he thought he had some scrap around.
I can leave a few unmade to show everyone how simple it is to cut on the table saw and band saws.

Who is gettng the rods and props? Glue as well?
 
I'll order the props and rods when we get a hard count.

I can also pick up the rigid airline and tubing. I found better thick wall flex tubing at one of the home store that I will bring too.
 
I need 2 of these set ups and would like to be a part of this. When this is finalized please let me know how much $$ and time/ place of this event. IUf there is not enough room for me I could also get the funds for the project and pick them up at a latewr time. Please PM me when this is all set up and ready to go. Thanks
 
I have about 6' of stainless rod 3/32's, just rod from a welder I know.


About the props. Is it smarter to just order the smaller ones or trim the large one down as needed? I'm getting a couple used ones for this.
TIA,
 
Oh yeah, those magnets look awsome. I worry that with no coating to cushion them they could snap too hard and crack the tank's glass. Any thoughts? I think these magnets are plated in... nickel?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7968061#post7968061 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IowaKevinK
I have about 6' of stainless rod 3/32's, just rod from a welder I know.


About the props. Is it smarter to just order the smaller ones or trim the large one down as needed? I'm getting a couple used ones for this.
TIA,

That's cool with the SS rod. Maybe all I need to order is the props unless some one has to have the carbon fiber. I think will have enough props to tinker with so I don't hink it will be a problem.

The magnet mount in the thread I listed are encased in acrylic so they are not exposed to water.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7968061#post7968061 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IowaKevinK
I have about 6' of stainless rod 3/32's, just rod from a welder I know.


,

make sure they are 316 food grade steel
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7968108#post7968108 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IowaKevinK
Oh yeah, those magnets look awsome. I worry that with no coating to cushion them they could snap too hard and crack the tank's glass. Any thoughts? I think these magnets are plated in... nickel?


really you should encase them in something like acrylic
 
The stainless steel rod I have is from a food processing plant but it is 308. Stampped on the rod "308/308L ITA 3 4 7" I looked for a few minutes but could not find a site that tells the differance btwn 308 and 316 rod. May not be reef safe. If you know please let me know.
 
316 Stainless Steel:
316 Stainless Steel is used when the product will be exposed to a corrosive environment. Edstrom Industries uses 316 stainless steel in applications where high levels of chlorine or hydrochloric acid are added to the drinking water. 316 stainless steel is also used when the product is connected to other equipment, such as chlorinators or bottle fillers, and spills or fumes may contact the sheet metal.
Edstrom Industries uses 316 stainless steel for animal drinking valves, fittings, and tubing in room distribution systems and rack manifolds. 316 stainless steel is specified at any location where the drinking water may flow through. This is done in case the customer adds chlorine to the water, or if the customer uses tap water. (Tap water may be acidic and have high levels of organic material, which can cause corrosion.)

316 stainless steel contains molybdenum, and the nickel content in 316 is 10% (compared to the 8% nickel content found in 314 stainless steel). Molybdenum, in conjunction with chromium, provides superior resistance to corrosion due to chlorides. The increased nickel content aids in repassivation of the passive film in case of damage.

Note, however, that 316 stainless steel is subject to attack if very high levels of chlorine are used for extended periods of time. If 50 PPM and above is used in the system and let stand in the system for longer than 3 or 4 hours, pitting will occur, as the chlorides will attack it, especially in cracks and crevices.

316 stainless steel is non-magnetic. Its machinability is similar to 304 stainless steel, and its material cost is 50% to 100% more than 303 or 304 stainless steel.


316 Resists to corrosion in a wider number of chemical products than 304. This nuance is not compatible with thermal hardening. Good compatibility with all current modes of welding. Pulp and paper machinery, heater exchanger, material of dyeing, propeller, elements in contact with sea air and marine environment.
 
With the mag question. We can just take 2 - 1/4' pieces of acrylic, drill them halfway thru, put the mag inside and then glue the two pcs toegether to inclose the mag. This will prevent any exposure to water and will give a good base to make any mounts.

there is a ferw more thoughts being evoled for this application at this point.
 
Or 1 w/ the acrylic towards the glass- and epoxy the other side...


or you could modify a 3-4" dimeter pvc ring that would trasition nicley to the mount.
 
I was looking at adding that additional on the back just to make a finished appearance. We could even get fancy and glaze the edges with a torch.
 
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