Travis
10 and over club
This is just my opinion, but I feel that if you have any corals with eggs on them that you can't scrape off, you should just let these eggs hatch out in the quarantine. Continue the standard protocol of weekly dips and start your duration (whether it be 4 weeks, 6 weeks, 8 weeks, etc.) when all of the eggs have hatched out. So if you plan to quarantine for 8 weeks and it takes 2 weeks for the eggs to hatch out, then the total time will be 10 weeks. When the FW's do hatch out, the weekly treatment should take care of them. I know it was anecdotally reported previously that freshly hatched FW's can lay eggs within less than a week but I'm not sure if I am convinced on this. I would imagine it would take longer for a FW to reach a size large enough that it was capable of laying eggs.
When I did the treatments, I superglued over eggs that I couldn't remove. Later on I worried that there "might" be a possibility that if the superglue ever got chipped off and the eggs were again exposed to water they could possible hatch out. No idea if this is true or not but I will play it safe and not superglue for future treatments. Sometimes a coral will grow over the superglue and that would be fine as it would seal the eggs in, but often times the coral will not regrow over that area, especially if it is at the perimeter of the base and the coral is no longer basing out. I just feel that it would be safest to just let the eggs that can't be removed hatch out while you are treating the corals rather than risk the possibility that they could hatch out in the display later down the road. After all, if you have a bad infestation, there is a good chance that there is going to be eggs that you don't see anyways. The eggs are not easy to find unless they are on the coral. In my case, I found eggs that were laid several inches away from any coral tissue or skeleton deep inside crevices in live rock.
I also feel it is best to treat inside the quarantine tank. Drain the tank down until the water is just covering all of the corals. Save the drained water for when refilling the tank. Calculate your treatment dosage based on how much water is left in the tank. After the treatment, remove all of the corals, wipe/bleach/whatever the tank and equipment to remove possible stragglers, replace with tank water that was drained before treatment, replace corals, then top off with water change water.
It is good to hear about all the success strories with the fluke tabs. When I was dealing with all of this we didn't have such a non-stressful treatment to choose from. It was either levamisole or many bottles of expensive TMPCC (if you were lucky enough to find any of the very few bottles available at the time). I'm still not sure if I'm convinced the fluke tabs are having a 100% kill rate.... but I will be trying the fluke tabs on any new additions. Maybe I will come across an infected colony and can do some experiments to see if the fluke dip actually kills all the FW's and then I can finally put my own argument to rest.:lol:
When I did the treatments, I superglued over eggs that I couldn't remove. Later on I worried that there "might" be a possibility that if the superglue ever got chipped off and the eggs were again exposed to water they could possible hatch out. No idea if this is true or not but I will play it safe and not superglue for future treatments. Sometimes a coral will grow over the superglue and that would be fine as it would seal the eggs in, but often times the coral will not regrow over that area, especially if it is at the perimeter of the base and the coral is no longer basing out. I just feel that it would be safest to just let the eggs that can't be removed hatch out while you are treating the corals rather than risk the possibility that they could hatch out in the display later down the road. After all, if you have a bad infestation, there is a good chance that there is going to be eggs that you don't see anyways. The eggs are not easy to find unless they are on the coral. In my case, I found eggs that were laid several inches away from any coral tissue or skeleton deep inside crevices in live rock.
I also feel it is best to treat inside the quarantine tank. Drain the tank down until the water is just covering all of the corals. Save the drained water for when refilling the tank. Calculate your treatment dosage based on how much water is left in the tank. After the treatment, remove all of the corals, wipe/bleach/whatever the tank and equipment to remove possible stragglers, replace with tank water that was drained before treatment, replace corals, then top off with water change water.
It is good to hear about all the success strories with the fluke tabs. When I was dealing with all of this we didn't have such a non-stressful treatment to choose from. It was either levamisole or many bottles of expensive TMPCC (if you were lucky enough to find any of the very few bottles available at the time). I'm still not sure if I'm convinced the fluke tabs are having a 100% kill rate.... but I will be trying the fluke tabs on any new additions. Maybe I will come across an infected colony and can do some experiments to see if the fluke dip actually kills all the FW's and then I can finally put my own argument to rest.:lol:
Where do you think you got the little bastards?
