Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
My rendition of 300
- Thread starter Sisterlimonpot
- Start date
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Snap a few USB's and a CAT6 in place, screw the plates on just to take the pictures
During all of this the doorbell rang and looky what just came in time to keep me moving forward:
I purchased a 0.6 sones 80 cfm exhaust fan that will be controlled by a humidistat. Once I get that in and connect the 1/4 water lines for the ATO and hopefully an automatic water change system down the road, I will be able to start drywalling.
During all of this the doorbell rang and looky what just came in time to keep me moving forward:
I purchased a 0.6 sones 80 cfm exhaust fan that will be controlled by a humidistat. Once I get that in and connect the 1/4 water lines for the ATO and hopefully an automatic water change system down the road, I will be able to start drywalling.
McPuff
New member
This has certainly gone "next level." :0) I'm eager to see how the ports are going to work. Really great attention to detail. It will look so clean and hopefully make things easier for you as well. I have been trying to figure out a good way to do something similar on my own system... so I don't need to feed wires through the wall. Just a problem if I have to make a change, etc.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
That is a big concern, all this work will be worthless if I still have to route wires throughout the room. I've been thinking that I'm going to run more wire and have it sit behind a wall plate just for future expansion.
Today I want to get that exhaust fan up and running and run a separate exhaust port for a portable air conditioner, then I can close walls.
Hey Jimmy,
Found your build thread. As usual, your going all in. I see you've taken time to plan it all out. Things are looking good.
So whens the estimated "WET" date?
Found your build thread. As usual, your going all in. I see you've taken time to plan it all out. Things are looking good.
So whens the estimated "WET" date?
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Hello Ray,
Good to hear from you. I haven't given much thought to when the tank will start to fill with water. I think because it's so far down the road that I don't want to even think about it... There's so many unknown variables, but if you twist my arm, I would say another 2 months. Somewhere around July, right when we have to close up all the doors and windows and start pumping air conditioning.
Maybe next time you're up this way in Tonopah you can come see it for yourself...
halmus
New member
Hiding the Apex cables in the wall takes this to a new level of build. I'm glad you're planning ahead a little with extra cables you don't have a need for immediately.
Have you considered running a conduit of some sort to the various corners of the room? Something you could fish data cables through in the future as needed?
I ended up just using cable raceway outside of the walls because the design changed 10 times before I was done. This is a far cleaner install.
Have you considered running a conduit of some sort to the various corners of the room? Something you could fish data cables through in the future as needed?
I ended up just using cable raceway outside of the walls because the design changed 10 times before I was done. This is a far cleaner install.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Where was this idea 2 weeks ago????
I did think about it and ruled out that idea because as much as it seems like I have hard fast plans on where everything is going to go, I don't. Usually I wouldn't be able to tell you what is going where a week from now, but when it's 7 days later I can tell you my exact plan, and that's bound to change many times in the course of the day. So running conduit at specific end points would have limited me to those points.
Looking back on what I did and how much wire I snaked through the wall, I would definitely lean towards the using conduit. Although, if I really wanted to, I can find those data cables anywhere in the wall and tap into them from that location, if it was conduit I couldn't do that. 6 of one, half dozen of the other....
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Not much to report, although I think you'll get a laugh at my expense. (read on)
I wanted to get the exhaust fan installed
Taped all the holes and seems
Stabbed it in the ceiling
Duct work
put 2 holes ei destroyed the house
Stucco patch
Painted
all that's left is to put the drywall pieces back in place
We chose this particular fan because it uses a DC motor which equated to lower electric costs and it's rated at 0.6 sones meaning that it's quieter than a high end refrigerator. In fact if you're ever in the market for a new exhaust fan I would urge you to consider this one. Here's a video
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/B5yTVM-smAo?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Apparently the bearings that hold the motor shaft isn't align properly. So, I put in a phone call to the manufacturer and explained to them that the fan didn't meet my standards of quiet, I proceeded to explain to him the problem and he wanted me to email him a video (luckily I already made one for RC) but I couldn't send it to him while on the phone, so he wanted me to hold the phone to the fan and ~maybe he'll be able to hear it. He also added that with these newer phones, he may not be able to hear it. because the phones microphone can pick up all sorts of ambient surrounding noises. I played along, "Ok, I'll close the door and be extremely quiet"
Well, long story short they're sending out a replacement, I just have to wait a little longer to check this part off the list. Hope you got a laugh at that...
I wanted to get the exhaust fan installed
Taped all the holes and seems
Stabbed it in the ceiling
Duct work
put 2 holes ei destroyed the house
Stucco patch
Painted
all that's left is to put the drywall pieces back in place
We chose this particular fan because it uses a DC motor which equated to lower electric costs and it's rated at 0.6 sones meaning that it's quieter than a high end refrigerator. In fact if you're ever in the market for a new exhaust fan I would urge you to consider this one. Here's a video
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/B5yTVM-smAo?rel=0&showinfo=0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Apparently the bearings that hold the motor shaft isn't align properly. So, I put in a phone call to the manufacturer and explained to them that the fan didn't meet my standards of quiet, I proceeded to explain to him the problem and he wanted me to email him a video (luckily I already made one for RC) but I couldn't send it to him while on the phone, so he wanted me to hold the phone to the fan and ~maybe he'll be able to hear it. He also added that with these newer phones, he may not be able to hear it. because the phones microphone can pick up all sorts of ambient surrounding noises. I played along, "Ok, I'll close the door and be extremely quiet"
Well, long story short they're sending out a replacement, I just have to wait a little longer to check this part off the list. Hope you got a laugh at that...
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Next step in the process is that I'm running water lines in the wall, three 1/4" lines will go to the tank (ATO reservoir, auto water change in, and out), the other side of the lines will be over on the wall with the RODI.
I thought about this for a while, I wanted to use 1/4" quick disconnect couplers and attach them to a wall plate only having a small portion of the coupler protruding through the wall, the rest would be behind the wall. I ran this idea through a buddy of mine in california, he's a reefer as well but on another level than I. If he said "yay" I would proceed. However his concerns were pretty much mine as well, having a plastic water line connection behind the wall was recipe for disaster. I've never seen one of these fail or leak, but put it behind a wall and it will, and i'll never know until it's too late. So I had to put the quick disconnect coupling on the outside of the wall plate. Not what I wanted but form has to follow function.
I have a laser cutter that can pretty much cut any shape from up to 1/2" acrylic, I planned out my cuts on the CAD program and sent it to the laser.
The entire purpose of what I'm making is to be able to clamp the tubes and hold them secure to the wall plate, preventing the tubes from sliding out or further back into the wall.
All the pieces cut,
Adhere these pieces together with weldon 4
Ran a tap through the appropriate holes
Starting to come together
Front side
Ran the tubes through and tighten the clamp to prevent it from backing out
Drilled the holes in the wally plate to match the clamping system
Trimmed the hose
I thought about this for a while, I wanted to use 1/4" quick disconnect couplers and attach them to a wall plate only having a small portion of the coupler protruding through the wall, the rest would be behind the wall. I ran this idea through a buddy of mine in california, he's a reefer as well but on another level than I. If he said "yay" I would proceed. However his concerns were pretty much mine as well, having a plastic water line connection behind the wall was recipe for disaster. I've never seen one of these fail or leak, but put it behind a wall and it will, and i'll never know until it's too late. So I had to put the quick disconnect coupling on the outside of the wall plate. Not what I wanted but form has to follow function.
I have a laser cutter that can pretty much cut any shape from up to 1/2" acrylic, I planned out my cuts on the CAD program and sent it to the laser.
The entire purpose of what I'm making is to be able to clamp the tubes and hold them secure to the wall plate, preventing the tubes from sliding out or further back into the wall.
All the pieces cut,
Adhere these pieces together with weldon 4
Ran a tap through the appropriate holes
Starting to come together
Front side
Ran the tubes through and tighten the clamp to prevent it from backing out
Drilled the holes in the wally plate to match the clamping system
Trimmed the hose
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
and attached the couplers
Now it's ready for to be connected to the tank.
I have to do this to 3 other locations and one that fan comes in, I can start drywalling.
Now it's ready for to be connected to the tank.
I have to do this to 3 other locations and one that fan comes in, I can start drywalling.
McPuff
New member
Maybe consider putting the water lines below the electric outlets??
I actually have had one of them fail on me. It was a 3/8" push fitting and the end of it just blew out of the housing completely. Luckily I was home and could hear the water spraying all over my utility room when I came downstairs. Everyone I told was surprised at the failure but it definitely DOES happen so good on you for not putting those IN the wall.
I actually have had one of them fail on me. It was a 3/8" push fitting and the end of it just blew out of the housing completely. Luckily I was home and could hear the water spraying all over my utility room when I came downstairs. Everyone I told was surprised at the failure but it definitely DOES happen so good on you for not putting those IN the wall.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Thankfully, none of these lines are going to be pressurized, I don't think I would run that type of line in the wall if it were pressurized.
My concern isn't having that power outlet under those lines. Its hard ingredients the tank right above it... hehe
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
I've been doing a lot of tedious work, tidy'd up all the wires, temporarily plugged in all the apex equipment and made sure all the connections worked, spray foamed all the holes to outside, Insulated around all the plumbing in hopes to muffle the sound of water flow, it dampened it a little bit but it's still a bit loud.
I wanted to cover up the beam that ran on the floor with concrete. Non of this is ideal, I wish I didn't have to put a step there but it's the best idea I had for covering it up. I will be tiling the floor and the tank will sit over the step anyway. I will have to create a custom stand to work around this.... oh well, what's more work???
When it comes to concrete, I'm a novice at best.
A started a punch list of things that I need to do before I can start hanging drywall, out of the 11 things on the list I have 8 done... 3 more to go and I can drywall, then tile, then turn my attention to all things a normal tank build would have. Hopefully all this ground work will pay off during that part.
I wanted to cover up the beam that ran on the floor with concrete. Non of this is ideal, I wish I didn't have to put a step there but it's the best idea I had for covering it up. I will be tiling the floor and the tank will sit over the step anyway. I will have to create a custom stand to work around this.... oh well, what's more work???
When it comes to concrete, I'm a novice at best.
A started a punch list of things that I need to do before I can start hanging drywall, out of the 11 things on the list I have 8 done... 3 more to go and I can drywall, then tile, then turn my attention to all things a normal tank build would have. Hopefully all this ground work will pay off during that part.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Oh, and good news, the new fan came in and it is pretty silent.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Itis a delta breeze SLM80, and yes triggered by your normal run of the mill humidity switch.
I was looking at some more sophisticated ones with better controls but I came back down off that cloud and decided once it's set, I don't have to mess with it. I would however like to have a display in the room that will tell me temperature and humidity.
I was looking at some more sophisticated ones with better controls but I came back down off that cloud and decided once it's set, I don't have to mess with it. I would however like to have a display in the room that will tell me temperature and humidity.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
What's a good humidity level for an equipment room? How often to you think this will kick on?
McPuff
New member
Gosh, I was hoping you'd tell me! :0)
I asked because I'm thinking of adding a fan to my utility room. I've used a mobile de-humidifier thus far but it's cumbersome, loud, and probably takes a ton of energy. I've already got a vent I could use for a fan, so I might as well add one. I'll check out the one you've listed. Thanks!
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
From my limited research, I read that 20-40% is ideal for the whole house. That's a safe level to prevent mold growth and not too dry for people comfort. So I set it to 30%, just because it's in between.
The reason why I asked the question is because I have to figure out where to put my portable ac unit if the fan was going to be on constantly I dont want to place the ac under it. But if it's only going to be on periodically then its feasible to do so. The ideal place to put it is in the corner right under the fan, although it has a long enough exhaust hose that I can stretch it further away.
As for that exhaust fan, I'm satisfied with it, it's not completely silent, but I quite certain that once everything in the room is running you won't hear it. The good thing about it is that it uses a brushless CD motor which equates to low electrical cost.
The reason why I asked the question is because I have to figure out where to put my portable ac unit if the fan was going to be on constantly I dont want to place the ac under it. But if it's only going to be on periodically then its feasible to do so. The ideal place to put it is in the corner right under the fan, although it has a long enough exhaust hose that I can stretch it further away.
As for that exhaust fan, I'm satisfied with it, it's not completely silent, but I quite certain that once everything in the room is running you won't hear it. The good thing about it is that it uses a brushless CD motor which equates to low electrical cost.
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