My review of the new WaterBlaster HY7000 pump

[Garage1217]

Garage,

I posted the information to benefit any others that might be having similar issues (which there obviously are.) As for "fiddling" with it, it is my return pump. When it fails, it must be cleaned to be returned to service. I'd hardly call that fiddling. As for a photo of the rusting screw sockets - you'll have to wait a couple weeks for it to fail again.

The rust is not coming from tool marks an the head of the screw. The threaded inserts are rusting.

What o-rings are you referring to - None are visible in my build, nor can the impeller be disassembled from the housing plate to inspect the inside of the bushing.

This pump has already been replaced once by CoralVue, as the same issues were evident when I first purchased it. I initially wrote it off as a problem associated with a new pump as I had acquired this when they were first released. This thought was bolstered by the fact that CoralVue was seemingly surprised that my Water Blaster pump housing is labeled as a Bubble Blaster (as is the replacement I received.)

Sorry to hear Jeremy is not assisting Yogre - I've also emailed Jeremy again. Perhaps with multiple complaints over the same issue, they will respond. I also purchased through Premium Aquatics, maybe they can help get a response.

One other person to note has spoke about this issue. And when I say "fiddling with it" I mean if you have an issue twice, or even 3 times, you should contact the manufacturer immediately by calling them as something is clearly wrong (as you did). When did you have it replaced? Coravue is pretty good, bet they get you taken care of quickly. Ask for David at coralvue, he is pretty cool. Tell him about your issue and what you have done to try to resolve it. I have no idea who Jeremy is, never dealt with him.

Inside the housing, at the rear of the pump (inside) is a silicone nitride bushing with a clear silicone O-ring that acts as suspension the shaft assembly. Look on page one of this post for photos or I will re-post here...

Curious as to what shape it is in. The only way for a pump to really seize is that the impeller goes way out of alignment somehow and heats up enough to stick, either that or there is so much buildup that it causes it to stick. I would lean towards something going out of alignment maybe? Not sure. Is the front housing with the large black o-ring pressed all the way into the housing? Wonder if it is somehow slipping out and causing it to miss-align. going to take mine apart tonight and inspect it.

 

[Yogre]

Garage1217,

Your assistance and interest in this issue is indeed much appreciated. I'll take my pump down this weekend, to see if I can see the parts you refer to.

I'll also call and ask for David at Coralvue on Monday. Jeremy is the person who responded to my email originally, and he's not been helpful.

Thanks again.

 

[Garage1217]

Just bummed you guys have had some issues. I am sure this will get resolved. Could be a bad batch or that you two happen to get the only ones hopefully. I just took my WB5000 apart and will post pics later, going to bed. The rear bushing you can get out of the pump with a hook tool, the front bushing is inside the front bulkhead piece and you cannot get to it. I wonder if the clear silicone o-ring has slipped off or back on the front bushing or something to that effect. There is clearance to push it back in with a jewelers screwdriver if that is the case. I also see no way on mine to separate the impeller from the shaft short of putting it into my press.

Observations on mine WB5000...
- Zero rust on the screws or inserts, well maybe a hint of it on one of the insert on the outside but hard to tell if it is just crud or the start of rust.
- Shaft wear is visually non existent on the rear shaft which is VERY impressive. I just checked with a caliper and there is in fact no measurable wear on the shaft. All points measure .237"
- I have a new bushing here that I have had laying around since my original purchase. It measures .238. The old used bushing measures .238 as well.

Curious as to what your guys bushings and so forth measure.

 

[Garage1217]

Calmseasquest - You have stated on r 2 r "I've heard from quite a few others that are having the same problem" in relation to seizing"

Where are all these others besides a single member here? I am not saying it is not possible others are not having the same issue but I am just not locating them on any forums.

From a troubleshooting standpoint, one common thing here is that you say you have a mineral or calcium build up issue. That would point directly at a tank keeping method, where you introduce the minerals into the tank and so on as this seems to be very isolated. Yogre stated that he was dripping kalk into the chamber with the pump... that will definitely do it! Yogre, have things gotten better with yours or worse since you moved your drip?

Also the pumps have a water channel and vent holes built into the front bulkhead of the impeller to direct water into the magnet / shaft area for cooling. When your guys pumps have issues, are the lower vent hole or upper channel vent clogged? The lower vent holes are small and if they are clogged, the pump will not cool properly. IF they are clogging from excess minerals or precipitation, you could try drilling the holes (not the vent itself) out a bit larger which will help aid in cooling. If this is the case as I am only speculating at this time, I would ask coralvue prior to doing so if it will void warranty (doubt it will but check anyways)

Also I would more or less doubt the seizing is from build up in the bushing areas. I would assume build up on the magnet casing or inside the pump? Are there scratch / rub marks or wear marks on the outside of the magnet casing that would point to this?

Also it would be wise to measure the diameter of the magnet assembly to make sure it is not broken internally which has happened with other pumps on me. Diameter should be very uniform.

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

...From a troubleshooting standpoint, one common thing here is that you say you have a mineral or calcium build up issue. That would point directly at a tank keeping method, where you introduce the minerals into the tank and so on as this seems to be very isolated. Yogre stated that he was dripping kalk into the chamber with the pump... that will definitely do it! Yogre, have things gotten better with yours or worse since you moved your drip?

...Also I would more or less doubt the seizing is from build up in the bushing areas. I would assume build up on the magnet casing or inside the pump? ...

Doubts and assumptions aside, In my case, on each tear-down, the magnet, shaft and shaft housing have been spotless. I do run a CaRx and add Kalk to my ATO, but no dosing takes place anywhere near the pump. The problem I am having relates only to the front bushing and is resolved by a vinegar soak.

I do agree that dosing just upstream of the pump can cause precipitation problems, but these are typically evident on the magnet as well.

Yogre - I received a reply fror Jeremy. I provided my water specs (~8.0 pH, 9 dKh/440Ca and ~1350Mg.) He responded asking for the pump Sr# - I'll have to remove the pump to get it.

 

[Aquatron]

3 Pumps

3 Pumps

Hello,

I will be having two close loop pumps on my system, with each having (4) 1" inlets. Pumps will be feed with clear 2" seen in picture reduced as needed.
Was thinking (2) Water Blaster 16000 for this part? (3) 1" inlets bottom of tank with (1) 1" up top of tank front corner.
What do you think please?

Also need system feed pump WB 16000 1 1/4" hose to manifold with (4) 1" inlets? 300 gallon tank w/ 150 gallon Rubber maid tank sump.
(2) 1 1/2" drains to sump.( can add more)? May be a good idea :uzi:

Thank You,

 

[Yogre]

Garage1217- I did get a chance to look at the insides of my pump this morning. I could see the bushing down inside the pump, but I didn't pull it out. The way my luck has been going recently, I would have broken something. The two small cooling holes on the impeller plate were unobstructed. Absent instructions from Coralvue to widen those holes, I think I'd better leave them alone. I don't have access to a caliper, so I couldnt tell you about any wear on the impeller shaft. The area where I've been having problems is the front bushing. The impeller shaft rides in a circular gray plate, which presses into the front of the pump body. I've had this bearing surface foul with calcium, and in one case freeze so solid it wouldn't rotate. I've not had any issues with fouling on the magnet itself, I've not had any problems pulling the impeller assembly out of the pump body, and the surface of the magnet itself is undamaged and clean as a whistle.

CalmSeasQuest- I've been having some technical difficulties with emails with Jeremy. He re-established contact today. He wants me to email him a picture of the problem part, which is going to have to wait until next weekend for another teardown. Jeremy also mentioned wanting to send the impeller unit to the factory for analysis. I'm fine with that as long as he sends me a new impeller... I can't afford the downtime for a shipment to China!

 

[110galreef]

Just a note, I just broke the volute right where the output union is on my HY7000. Seeing it break thru it is some thin plastics. I was able to make a quick fix as 1/2 PVC fits in there fine and i was able to glue it in. I really wasn't hard on the pump either and it was in the sump running when i broke it. I was just pushing back on it to "set" the back 2 suction cups on the base to level it out a bit more.

I know have to find another volute if possible. I am sure the 1/2 PVC right off the output is restricting flow a bit.

Who do I contact for this. Also pump is only about 3 mos old. Bought from PA or Aqua Cave. Don't remember.

Overall I have yet to have any issues tho with the pump, does flow a ton and uses very little watts!

 

[Yogre]

I've been working with Jeremy at Coralvue, he's been very helpful and is sending me a new impeller.

We had some email issues early on (I wasn't getting his) but that seems to be resolved now.

There is a "Contact Us" link on Coralvue's website you can use.

 

[mikee68]

Ok, need some input. I can't decide on if I should get the 7000 or 10000 for my setup. Hoping that a few of you here with the water blaster pumps can help me choose the right one. I have a 100g DT, 30g frag tank, 15g fuge and three TLF reactor running off one manifold. The plumbing for the manifold is all 1" and drops down accordingly to either 3/4" or 1/2" for returns and reactors. All my main water movement comes from tunze pumps in the DT and frag tank. Please help me!!!

 

[110galreef]

Mike.....
HY7000.....

Plenty of flow for my 250g return, 40g frag tank, carbon reactor, and a tiny bit of flow going to a 5g fuge.

 

[Garage1217]

Mikee68, You almost had the same setup I ran years ago water volume wise all run off 1 pump.
- 90DT
- 20L fuge / softy frag tank
- 30G sps frag system
- The pump also fed 1 large next reef mr1 reactor and my ca reactor.

For my setup as it was a non siphon drain at the time, the 7000 was overkill. The 5000 was a flawless fit for me. If you are running a siphon drain or simply want more flow, then the 7000 would be the ticket. The 10000 would be a waste and pointless.

 

[mikee68]

Ok, thanks for the input. Gonna order the 7000

 

[epleeds]

I have a 200+ gallon tank, 72x30x22 and I am running a 1.5" herbie full siphon with a 1.5" emergency and a 1" single return. Just wondering if I should go with the 5000 or the 7000? I am currently running a 1262 and its not enough flow. Plus any updates from the 2 guys that were having issues with this pump. Any new issues?

Thanks.

 

[swissgaurd]

i got a 225 gallon tank ,running a 7000 wide open .luv it


vic

 

[Mekanic]

Thinking about a 5000 for my setup. 90g DT with Durso, 30g sump/fuge, GFO reactor, Chiller, carbon reactor down the line.

I'd love to get rid of my fleet of MJ's powering everything, and a QO 4000 running the DT, have about 5' of head.

 

[frogg21]

5000 or 7000 ????

5000 or 7000 ????

I'm stuck in the middle of a wb 5000 and 7000

200 gal 60x30x28 display tank
30 gal display fuge
20 gal sump

need to run at least 3 reactors off the return Water Blaster pump

NOT really into a high flow sump, 5x turnover is good with me

4' of head pressure on return

PLEASE help, 5000 or 7000 for this setup?!

 

[Scungili]

I own an external xp5000 cone skimmer. It has this pump, first version would eventually cease up and expand the shaft requiring replacement which they did, since it came with a 3 year warranty. After 2 pumps being replaced, I was told they changed the model and sent out a newer version. Which is the one that is being discussed here. This version will cease up much more frequently but it would NOT expand the shaft allowing one to clean it in vinegar and resume use. The problem is it will cease up with normal calcium and alk levels at a rate of once every 3 weeks. It requires draining the skimmer, removing the pump, opening the impeller housing and gingerly prying the shaft out. I managed to do this about 6 times and the 7th was too much on the shaft. It broke.... Not sure which model is worse, but in my opinion, it's still Chinese crap.

 

[DownwardDawg]

I'm stuck in the middle of a wb 5000 and 7000

200 gal 60x30x28 display tank
30 gal display fuge
20 gal sump

need to run at least 3 reactors off the return Water Blaster pump

NOT really into a high flow sump, 5x turnover is good with me

4' of head pressure on return

PLEASE help, 5000 or 7000 for this setup?!

I just stated up my 125. I have about 3' of head pressure plus several tee's and it returns to the tank through 4 sea swirls. I used the HY5000 and it's perfect. You can barely see the water moving in the sump. I'm no expert on this, but it just seems like a perfect fit to me. It's also very quite.

 

[led stony]

Hy5000 and bubble blaster rusty pumps

Hy5000 and bubble blaster rusty pumps

I have both of these pumps and both have rusty collets and screws. Returned them for new ones and they came new rusty!!! Last time they sent me a replacement pump it never made it in my home. Fedex said they shipped to my door but i never signed for it so coral view wont send me another pump. Should of bought ehime compact.less problems. And by the way you half to pay for return shipping 20 each time have a back up it takes 3 weeks.