my ritteri has arrived

[M Woodhill]

As far as food, I feed mine squid, shrimp, PE mysis, silversides, krill, etc. I would suggest to start with a small amount of PE mysis for starters. That food is high in protein and in fat and is likely to get a feeding response. Fresh foods get a better feeding response, e.g., fresh shrimp from the seafood dept., fresh calamari steak, if you have it at your local seafood counter, etc. Also, fresh trout is eagerly taken by my mags and, a common freshwater fish, tilapia (I fee fresh, never frozen).

i don't have pe mysis but mysis locally produced by an lfs

 

[D-Nak]

In those last pics, your mag looks pretty good considering it's been recently acquired, then in a hospital tank with antibiotics and now is in the DT again. My suggestion: leave it alone. Your tank looks good. And I disagree with flyhigh, I would keep the sg in the 1.026-1.027 range. In fact, a depressed sg is responsible for a high mortality rate in anemones in my opinion. Having natural strength seawater is (in my opinion) high on the list of necessary conditions for long-term success.

+1. The goal is to dial in your system so that all parameters are constant. If you don't have an ATO, I suggest getting one to lock your sg to 1.026. I also suggest that you gear your tank to you anemone and not your SPS. For example, most people elevate their levels on CA to above 400 and I personally think that anemones, particularly gigs and mags, are affected by this. It's best is to keep all levels at normal seawater. Additionally, pH should never shift more than .2 throughout a 24 hour period.

I think people are under the misconception that (I myself felt this way for a long time) anemones are more durable since many live in tidal zones where there is a lot of muck in the water and they are exposed to air for periods to time. I think the reality is that anemones are used to these certain environmental conditions. However, they aren't good with constant change (especially regarding water parameters), like a lot of people subject them to in our tanks.

Clearly the water parameters in your quarantine tank are different from that of the DT, so of course the anemone needs time to acclimate -- once again. Give it some time to acclimate to your DT since that where you plan to keep it.

Regarding feeding. My suggestion would be to feed it fleshy foods while its acclimating, such as fresh wild salmon or tuna, and soak it in Selcon prior to feeding. This way the nem doesn't have to work harder to process its meal, which may occur with anything that has an exoskeleton or bones, such as krill or silversides.

Compared to other mags I've seen, yours looks to be in good shape. I think it will pull through if you keep you water parameters constant and don't fiddle with things too much. Don't forget about acclimation for light and water movement.

 

[M Woodhill]

+1. The goal is to dial in your system so that all parameters are constant. If you don't have an ATO, I suggest getting one to lock your sg to 1.026. I also suggest that you gear your tank to you anemone and not your SPS. For example, most people elevate their levels on CA to above 400 and I personally think that anemones, particularly gigs and mags, are affected by this. It's best is to keep all levels at normal seawater. Additionally, pH should never shift more than .2 throughout a 24 hour period.

I think people are under the misconception that (I myself felt this way for a long time) anemones are more durable since many live in tidal zones where there is a lot of muck in the water and they are exposed to air for periods to time. I think the reality is that anemones are used to these certain environmental conditions. However, they aren't good with constant change (especially regarding water parameters), like a lot of people subject them to in our tanks.

Clearly the water parameters in your quarantine tank are different from that of the DT, so of course the anemone needs time to acclimate -- once again. Give it some time to acclimate to your DT since that where you plan to keep it.

Regarding feeding. My suggestion would be to feed it fleshy foods while its acclimating, such as fresh wild salmon or tuna, and soak it in Selcon prior to feeding. This way the nem doesn't have to work harder to process its meal, which may occur with anything that has an exoskeleton or bones, such as krill or silversides.

Compared to other mags I've seen, yours looks to be in good shape. I think it will pull through if you keep you water parameters constant and don't fiddle with things too much. Don't forget about acclimation for light and water movement.

what i saw in the sea often comes with both sps's and nems, in particular mags and btas

i guess gigs and mertensi's r fairly isolated from reef slope but often witnessed on muddy lagoon bottom or tidal pond rocks

about light, i guess this ritteri was hungry for light. i made a light shield and covered it with. when the light was on, it spotted towards the brighter areas and took immediate actions

so i gotta remove the shield and then it calmed down

i guess my ritteri doesn't like strong waves or needs more time to acclimate to waves than does it to light. probably as one stated in another thread concernin gigs, it like huge wave with low velocity---a wavebox effect

but the tunze nano wavebox doesn't work in my tank, pita

 

[garygb]

I would try the locally produced mysis that you mention. They will likely be fresh. Thaw some out and just try with a few. I would put the shrimp on the tentacles near the mouth, the longer it takes to get the food to its mouth the more likely it will just give up. I would decrease water flow so as to give a better chance the food will stay on the tentacles. Though an established mag if very sticky, a new one like that might not be so much. If the anemone doesn't take the food into the mouth, I would try again in an hour or so. I've observed this trial, fail, trial, eat sequence before. If it still doesn't bite, so to speak, then try again tomorrow.

 

[M Woodhill]

I would try the locally produced mysis that you mention. They will likely be fresh. Thaw some out and just try with a few. I would put the shrimp on the tentacles near the mouth, the longer it takes to get the food to its mouth the more likely it will just give up. I would decrease water flow so as to give a better chance the food will stay on the tentacles. Though an established mag if very sticky, a new one like that might not be so much. If the anemone doesn't take the food into the mouth, I would try again in an hour or so. I've observed this trial, fail, trial, eat sequence before. If it still doesn't bite, so to speak, then try again tomorrow.

i just don't know where the lfs's got those mysis and how long it was kept in the refrigerator

and i've kept it in mine for probably a month or 2. my longspine cardinalfish loves it

 

[garygb]

If you don't feel confident about the mysis, get some fresh shrimp from the seafood dept. You don't want the shrimp to have ever been cooked. Cut off a small piece, say the size of a small peanut and try that. Mags love shrimp, among other things.

 

[M Woodhill]

If you don't feel confident about the mysis, get some fresh shrimp from the seafood dept. You don't want the shrimp to have ever been cooked. Cut off a small piece, say the size of a small peanut and try that. Mags love shrimp, among other things.

this morning my break for ritteri cure has finished

before gettin out for work, it kinda deflated. don't know what result will be comin

 

[garygb]

? your break for cure has finished. Not sure what that means. At any rate, it's not out of the ordinary for mags to deflate some during acclimation. Yours is definitely in the acclimation phase, especially after going from DT, to hospital tank, and back to DT. Frankly, I'm surprised it's not deflating more than you're reporting it to be. Also, I recall my mag didn't eat for the first few weeks, despite my attempts to feed it. Finally it settled in and began to eat--and that was 10 years ago.

 

[M Woodhill]

? your break for cure has finished. Not sure what that means. At any rate, it's not out of the ordinary for mags to deflate some during acclimation. Yours is definitely in the acclimation phase, especially after going from DT, to hospital tank, and back to DT. Frankly, I'm surprised it's not deflating more than you're reporting it to be. Also, I recall my mag didn't eat for the first few weeks, despite my attempts to feed it. Finally it settled in and began to eat--and that was 10 years ago.

my nice boss gave me 2 days off to treat the ritteri:inlove:

guess fresh shrimps means chopped shrimps freezed on ice, huh?

there's seemingly no possibility to get live shrimps in ottawa

 

[shred5]

this morning my break for ritteri cure has finished

before gettin out for work, it kinda deflated. don't know what result will be comin

You do realise anemones do deflate from time to time and allot of them do at night. It does not always mean something is wrong.

 

[M Woodhill]

it now completely deflated and blew out a big purple chunk of waste

 

[M Woodhill]

a snapshot from my monitorin system

 

[D-Nak]

I don't remember is this was discussed already. What kind of lighting do you have on your DT? How are you acclimating the nem to the lighting?

When you mention a chunk of waste, and if I remember correctly this nem hasn't been eating, I would guess that the waste is actually zooxanthellae. I've seen this happen in nems (mags and gigs) and I suspect that it's the nem trying to adjust its zooxanthellae population to match lighting conditions.

Personally, I'd keep it in the DT, since it really does need to get used to those conditions, and add shading to your lighting if you have halide, or dim down if you have LEDs.

 

[M Woodhill]

I don't remember is this was discussed already. What kind of lighting do you have on your DT? How are you acclimating the nem to the lighting?

When you mention a chunk of waste, and if I remember correctly this nem hasn't been eating, I would guess that the waste is actually zooxanthellae. I've seen this happen in nems (mags and gigs) and I suspect that it's the nem trying to adjust its zooxanthellae population to match lighting conditions.

Personally, I'd keep it in the DT, since it really does need to get used to those conditions, and add shading to your lighting if you have halide, or dim down if you have LEDs.

lightin is ati 8 t5 bulbs and they r dimmable

i hang the fixture 12 inches above the water

and i made a light shield for the ritteri. it didn't like it at all and tried its best to move towards brighter area--so apparent actions

then i gotta remove the shield and it then calmed down, stayed for entire day inflated with partial deflation as shown in the vid clip

but this morning, it started to deflate again and now it looks like that, like passin away

 

[garygb]

As others have suggested, letting the anemone adjust to your DT is important. Actually, staying home and fussing with it might not be the best thing. Leaving it alone may be what it really needs.

 

[M Woodhill]

As others have suggested, letting the anemone adjust to your DT is important. Actually, staying home and fussing with it might not be the best thing. Leaving it alone may be what it really needs.

yup, i guess there's still apparently improvement after hospitalization

the mouth opened wide but seemingly sound without wounds

i'm to get a tunze hang-on skimmer to make the hospital tank deluxe

if the condition continues to this saturday, i gotta repeat to hospitalize it--probably this time i'd hospitalize both the nem and nemos

 

[D-Nak]

Aside from reiterating what most of us are suggesting (don't mess with the nem anymore, just leave it alone) if you still want to move it back to a quarantine tank, my suggestion is NOT to move the clowns. Clowns can be very rough on an anemone -- mine used to try to torpedo their way into my gig's mouth -- and can do more harm to an already stressed nem. Splitting them up won't do any harm, but could possibly do a lot of good.

 

[M Woodhill]

Aside from reiterating what most of us are suggesting (don't mess with the nem anymore, just leave it alone) if you still want to move it back to a quarantine tank, my suggestion is NOT to move the clowns. Clowns can be very rough on an anemone -- mine used to try to torpedo their way into my gig's mouth -- and can do more harm to an already stressed nem. Splitting them up won't do any harm, but could possibly do a lot of good.

i had two gigs be4

believe me, nemos do the mouth job really outa good willings

 

[M Woodhill]

finally caught the image of the waste

i love iphone and icloud

so useful for reef tank monitorin

 

[garygb]

You wrote: "believe me, nemos do the mouth job really outa good willings"

What does that mean?

Also, in the pic it's zooxanthellae that's being expelled. That happens during acclimation, and actually can happen anytime. It's not something to be alarmed about.