My Seven Footer
- Thread starter FishTruck
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ReefEnabler
Premium Member
tank is looking really good, those acros you added look massive!
really sorry about your achilles
really sorry about your achilles
FishTruck
Premium Member
Ryan B. Thanks! Unfortunately, my acros have been decimated. I have the large table left. Most of the rest are gone. I have multiple small frags of that teal stag. I think it was AEFW and am currently dipping the survivors in betadyne solution. No more new acros for a LONG time. Everything else is good though.
Reefer08. Thanks again!
Regarding flow... Right now my return has four penductors driven through the sump by a reeflo marlin, with my pressure head I guess about 1250 gph...and I estimate about 1250 gph out of each penductor (total 5000 gph). These are aimed to blow at the base of the rock structure to push substrate and detitus out from under the rocks.
In addition to that, I have two Tunze 6200s (5200 gph each), one in each corner, that blow across the length of the tank in opposing directions. These are controlled by an aquasurf.
So, total flow when both tunzes hit 100% on the program is about 15,000 gph or about 50x turnover each hour.
Reefer08. Thanks again!
Regarding flow... Right now my return has four penductors driven through the sump by a reeflo marlin, with my pressure head I guess about 1250 gph...and I estimate about 1250 gph out of each penductor (total 5000 gph). These are aimed to blow at the base of the rock structure to push substrate and detitus out from under the rocks.
In addition to that, I have two Tunze 6200s (5200 gph each), one in each corner, that blow across the length of the tank in opposing directions. These are controlled by an aquasurf.
So, total flow when both tunzes hit 100% on the program is about 15,000 gph or about 50x turnover each hour.
FishTruck
Premium Member
Hi Guys. This is a cheap update because the same post is in the equipment section. But, I have been playing around with a UFO all blue grow light to supplement my MH pendants. Jealous of MCliffy and other T5 users for the "pop" that I just can't get from my LPS corals... I think I may have found a solution.
Enjoy!
This is my tank before my LED actinic experiment. Mostly to orient you to the hood and light setup. Shown here are two sfiligoi pendants, each with two 400 watt MH lamps. You cant see the whole reflector without putting your head in the hood. This makes the reflectors look smaller in the picture below.
So...
This is the UFO 90 w LED grow light sitting between my two Metal Halide Reflectors. Off and On. In these pics, each MH reflector has a single 400 watt 20 k radium turned on. Thus, 90 watts of LED mixed in with 800 watts MH. In real life, there is no "dimming" like the camera shows. The LED really throws the camera off (in my hands), but, you can see the actinic effect is there.
All four metal halides on without, and with the UFO grow light. The actinic effect is harder for me to capture, but, enhanced corals without adding a huge blue look. The two other bulbs added now are reflux 12ks. So, 1600 watts MH (half radium 20k and half reeflux 12k) plus one 90 watt all blue UFO).
Actinic only. This is a single 90 w LED fixture in the center of the tank, lighting up the whole thing. This tank is seven feet long.
In my particular case, I have a "dark spot" right at the top of my middle rock pile. Rather than throw in a MH, I thought, I might put in some actinics and build some really nice LPS coral up to top and center. "Martian Mountain" maybe.
I have room for two more of these UFOs. One on each side of the tank. If I do that, I will pull the MH lamps all the way up. I have made a new bracket system just in case (pulled out the router for the first time in awhile). But... I will hold off on the new UFOs for now... I still have an SPS death issue to deal with.
If I had to do it all again, I might try three lumen bright reflectors with two UFOs sandwiched between. My situation is unique since I have a rather smallish door which requires segmented lights which can be easily and individually removed.
Finally, the pictures illustrate the point, but, don't really show how the tank looks. I would summarize what I actually see as follows.
1. Four Metal Halides plus UFO (1600 watts of MH and 90 w of LED). Center of tank looks brighter and colors of LPS really pop. A pile of LPS on the rock pile will really stand out! The overall effect is blinding! In a good way!
2. Two Metal halides (radium 20k) plus UFO. Whole tank now has a more actinic look. Pleasant to view and bright.
3. UFO only. Looks like a haunted house. Pretty cool for a listen to dark side of the moon and a nice Gin Martini.
Cheers!
Enjoy!
This is my tank before my LED actinic experiment. Mostly to orient you to the hood and light setup. Shown here are two sfiligoi pendants, each with two 400 watt MH lamps. You cant see the whole reflector without putting your head in the hood. This makes the reflectors look smaller in the picture below.
So...
This is the UFO 90 w LED grow light sitting between my two Metal Halide Reflectors. Off and On. In these pics, each MH reflector has a single 400 watt 20 k radium turned on. Thus, 90 watts of LED mixed in with 800 watts MH. In real life, there is no "dimming" like the camera shows. The LED really throws the camera off (in my hands), but, you can see the actinic effect is there.
All four metal halides on without, and with the UFO grow light. The actinic effect is harder for me to capture, but, enhanced corals without adding a huge blue look. The two other bulbs added now are reflux 12ks. So, 1600 watts MH (half radium 20k and half reeflux 12k) plus one 90 watt all blue UFO).
Actinic only. This is a single 90 w LED fixture in the center of the tank, lighting up the whole thing. This tank is seven feet long.
In my particular case, I have a "dark spot" right at the top of my middle rock pile. Rather than throw in a MH, I thought, I might put in some actinics and build some really nice LPS coral up to top and center. "Martian Mountain" maybe.
I have room for two more of these UFOs. One on each side of the tank. If I do that, I will pull the MH lamps all the way up. I have made a new bracket system just in case (pulled out the router for the first time in awhile). But... I will hold off on the new UFOs for now... I still have an SPS death issue to deal with.
If I had to do it all again, I might try three lumen bright reflectors with two UFOs sandwiched between. My situation is unique since I have a rather smallish door which requires segmented lights which can be easily and individually removed.
Finally, the pictures illustrate the point, but, don't really show how the tank looks. I would summarize what I actually see as follows.
1. Four Metal Halides plus UFO (1600 watts of MH and 90 w of LED). Center of tank looks brighter and colors of LPS really pop. A pile of LPS on the rock pile will really stand out! The overall effect is blinding! In a good way!
2. Two Metal halides (radium 20k) plus UFO. Whole tank now has a more actinic look. Pleasant to view and bright.
3. UFO only. Looks like a haunted house. Pretty cool for a listen to dark side of the moon and a nice Gin Martini.
Cheers!
Last edited:
FishTruck
Premium Member
One more thing...
I try to stay with the "no pics no post" rule for a new topic, but, this is worth a report.
Last week, I was testing and adjusting levels. Accidentally, I added too much two part, calcium and alk. I had a pH spike up to about 8.7. I added about 750 ml of vinegar, which corrected it to 8.1 (way overkill), but things settled out to 8.2. Went to bed.
The next day, the tank was cloudy. Bacterial bloom! The parameters were perfect, and the ORP never dropped under 300. I came home to find my Copper Band sucked up into a Tunze. I turned it off and he swam off, but, didn't look so hot. (He is crab food now).
Any way... I then had really good skimmer output, and then, the next day, CRYSTAL CLEAR water.
This is the carbon source idea used by vodka dosers. There is no way in heck I can be trusted to pull out a vodka bottle on a daily basis, but, I am thinking about a weekly addition strategy.
Naturally, I am a little concerned that one fish died, but, I have seen other fish get jammed into that powerhead. I am not sure if he got sick because he got pulled into the pump, or.. if he was sick from my bacterial bloom, and, thereby got sucked into the powerhead.
Next chapter... the revenge of the aiptasia after the Copperbands exit? or.. Ryans WILD success with weekly vinegar dosing?
Or, more like... "why I should just keep my hands off the tank post"
This is a rambling... Sorry.
I try to stay with the "no pics no post" rule for a new topic, but, this is worth a report.
Last week, I was testing and adjusting levels. Accidentally, I added too much two part, calcium and alk. I had a pH spike up to about 8.7. I added about 750 ml of vinegar, which corrected it to 8.1 (way overkill), but things settled out to 8.2. Went to bed.
The next day, the tank was cloudy. Bacterial bloom! The parameters were perfect, and the ORP never dropped under 300. I came home to find my Copper Band sucked up into a Tunze. I turned it off and he swam off, but, didn't look so hot. (He is crab food now).
Any way... I then had really good skimmer output, and then, the next day, CRYSTAL CLEAR water.
This is the carbon source idea used by vodka dosers. There is no way in heck I can be trusted to pull out a vodka bottle on a daily basis, but, I am thinking about a weekly addition strategy.
Naturally, I am a little concerned that one fish died, but, I have seen other fish get jammed into that powerhead. I am not sure if he got sick because he got pulled into the pump, or.. if he was sick from my bacterial bloom, and, thereby got sucked into the powerhead.
Next chapter... the revenge of the aiptasia after the Copperbands exit? or.. Ryans WILD success with weekly vinegar dosing?
Or, more like... "why I should just keep my hands off the tank post"
This is a rambling... Sorry.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
Wow those LEDs look to be putting out alot. looks like the white balance is a bit out of range 
any chance you can RAW edit to see the true colors?
I've been thinking along the same lines of using LEDs to fill the lowlight spots between halides. I'm considering placing them towards the front of the hood, angled down at around 45 degrees. Thinking this might illuminate the sides of coral branches more and give more colorful tissue to photograph from side views.
If I were you I'd ramp up the photoperiod on that 90w led gradually.
any chance you can RAW edit to see the true colors?I've been thinking along the same lines of using LEDs to fill the lowlight spots between halides. I'm considering placing them towards the front of the hood, angled down at around 45 degrees. Thinking this might illuminate the sides of coral branches more and give more colorful tissue to photograph from side views.
If I were you I'd ramp up the photoperiod on that 90w led gradually.
FishTruck
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14624879#post14624879 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefEnabler
Wow those LEDs look to be putting out alot. looks like the white balance is a bit out of range
I've been thinking along the same lines of using LEDs to fill the lowlight spots between halides. I'm considering placing them towards the front of the hood, angled down at around 45 degrees. Thinking this might illuminate the sides of coral branches more and give more colorful tissue to photograph from side views.
If I were you I'd ramp up the photoperiod on that 90w led gradually.
Yep. Only one hour per day right now.
I tried changing the angle of the LED pendant, but, it doesn't seem to matter much for this particular pendant. The spread is different than what you would get with LEDs all pointed in the same direction.
I will try to figure out how to white balance my camera.
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
Have the corals shown any response to the additional blue LEDs after a few weeks???
FishTruck
Premium Member
The UFO LED was running for about two weeks, and broke. The internal fans come on, but, the light does not. I was really getting to like the blue "pop" in colors I was getting.
As far as pigmentation or growth.... I see no effects for (good or bad) at this point.
I sent the light back for replacement. Hopefully, the next one will be more durable.
Ryan
As far as pigmentation or growth.... I see no effects for (good or bad) at this point.
I sent the light back for replacement. Hopefully, the next one will be more durable.
Ryan
FishTruck,
Very impressive, and I love the cabinetry.
How difficult is it for you to keep the rear and right side panels of the aquarium clean?
I will be setting up a 48" wide system, and unfortunately it will not be an in wall setup. The orientation looks to be similar to yours where the tank will not have easy access to the rear, and right panels.
Thanks
Very impressive, and I love the cabinetry.
How difficult is it for you to keep the rear and right side panels of the aquarium clean?
I will be setting up a 48" wide system, and unfortunately it will not be an in wall setup. The orientation looks to be similar to yours where the tank will not have easy access to the rear, and right panels.
Thanks
FishTruck
Premium Member
Hi Spinny. Thanks!
The rear panels are a bit of a pain. I use a long scraper to keep them clean. A more practical design would have been to cover them with a rock wall type of aquascape.... but... I like the infinity illusion... which should be spectacular for a 48 inch wide tank! One think I did do which was smart in retrospect was to keep the rock walls about an inch off the back. This way I can scape enough behind them in most ares to really have them look clean.
The right panel is mostly covered with my rockscape and I can sneak the magnet in by the wall... so that part is no problem.
Ryan.
The rear panels are a bit of a pain. I use a long scraper to keep them clean. A more practical design would have been to cover them with a rock wall type of aquascape.... but... I like the infinity illusion... which should be spectacular for a 48 inch wide tank! One think I did do which was smart in retrospect was to keep the rock walls about an inch off the back. This way I can scape enough behind them in most ares to really have them look clean.
The right panel is mostly covered with my rockscape and I can sneak the magnet in by the wall... so that part is no problem.
Ryan.
FishTruck
Premium Member
Well, the tank is still plugging along. I am running LED supplements with my MH now all summer. I like the color. Especially with pure blue LED at sundown. The corals seem indifferent. No luck with acros since they all died off Jan. 2009. :/
I tried a nice deep water acro a couple months ago, which lasted about a month and STN' d.
Since then, I figured out that my RO / DI unit was not working properly and my final product was 35 ppm dumping into my tank. I have done 8 15% water changes, run a polyfilter, thinking that maybe some cloramine in my tank, or something bad from my tap water is what kills the acros. I also found out my refractometer was off and I was running 1.021 when I thought I was running 1.024-1.025.
So, I have five aquacultured acro frags in there since I fixed things. One week now. 3 of five have nice polyp extension and look good. Two never extended polyps and maybe just shipped poorly. If these acros fail... I might give up on them.. favoring LPS, softies, with some montis and birds nests.
Fish are happy. Clams are good. Lots of acans are growing and doing great.
I tried a nice deep water acro a couple months ago, which lasted about a month and STN' d.
Since then, I figured out that my RO / DI unit was not working properly and my final product was 35 ppm dumping into my tank. I have done 8 15% water changes, run a polyfilter, thinking that maybe some cloramine in my tank, or something bad from my tap water is what kills the acros. I also found out my refractometer was off and I was running 1.021 when I thought I was running 1.024-1.025.
So, I have five aquacultured acro frags in there since I fixed things. One week now. 3 of five have nice polyp extension and look good. Two never extended polyps and maybe just shipped poorly. If these acros fail... I might give up on them.. favoring LPS, softies, with some montis and birds nests.
Fish are happy. Clams are good. Lots of acans are growing and doing great.
FishTruck
Premium Member
Well, after throwing everything including the kitchen sink at the problem, the SPS scourge seems to be over. The colonies in the video have been in for about two months now, keeping color and with good polyp extension.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5YwVedkGRI
So, 15 months after all my acros died... here is what I did (after fallowing the tank of SPS for four months).
1. properly tuned my RO unit - pressure pump, inline TDS meter - got rid of dual RO membranes for one pressurized one.
2. I now check Alk daily, or twice daily
3. To my Ca reactor I added a flow meter for the effluent, and learned not to use the pH probe as a means to control the CO2 bubble rate.
4. massive water change and polyfilters
5. increase feedings
6. vodka dosing
7. redundant test kits to insure accuracy
8. hanna phos meter
9. phos ban and carbon
10 add two more Tunzes
11. UV sterilizer 24/7
And that's all it took! The tank seems to be thriving now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5YwVedkGRI
So, 15 months after all my acros died... here is what I did (after fallowing the tank of SPS for four months).
1. properly tuned my RO unit - pressure pump, inline TDS meter - got rid of dual RO membranes for one pressurized one.
2. I now check Alk daily, or twice daily
3. To my Ca reactor I added a flow meter for the effluent, and learned not to use the pH probe as a means to control the CO2 bubble rate.
4. massive water change and polyfilters
5. increase feedings
6. vodka dosing
7. redundant test kits to insure accuracy
8. hanna phos meter
9. phos ban and carbon
10 add two more Tunzes
11. UV sterilizer 24/7
And that's all it took! The tank seems to be thriving now.
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