My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[reefmutt]

Even though you found out that you had a false reading in the display tank, you asked a very important question above: ‘how do I quickly drop P?’
Well, I think my answer is never, no matter what. Just accept the current value and begin to take steps to control its rise and then steps to lower it as naturally and/or gradually as possible.
Just like your past alk issue.. no need to have an overreaction and do crazy things. Just begin steps to reverse the trend.
Of course it is better to try to reduce p by increasing sinks instead of sources (Assuming sources are food inputs) once you’ve eliminated possible sources like bad ro water, or cheap foods etc.
maybe your skimmer can be tweaked.. I forget what the display has for nutrient reduction. Is there a fuge there as well?
Even if you resort to gfo or carbon, you should always begin at way less than recommended levels and work up slowly..
Having said all that, n of 2-5 and p of .1 ish is not a huge concern. You could work on p a little but I’d try small tweaks to the system before resorting to LC or gfo or even carbon..

 

[Wally.B]

Even though you found out that you had a false reading in the display tank, you asked a very important question above: ‘how do I quickly drop P?’
Well, I think my answer is never, no matter what. Just accept the current value and begin to take steps to control its rise and then steps to lower it as naturally and/or gradually as possible.
Just like your past alk issue.. no need to have an overreaction and do crazy things. Just begin steps to reverse the trend.
Of course it is better to try to reduce p by increasing sinks instead of sources (Assuming sources are food inputs) once you’ve eliminated possible sources like bad ro water, or cheap foods etc.
maybe your skimmer can be tweaked.. I forget what the display has for nutrient reduction. Is there a fuge there as well?
Even if you resort to gfo or carbon, you should always begin at way less than recommended levels and work up slowly..
Having said all that, n of 2-5 and p of .1 ish is not a huge concern. You could work on p a little but I’d try small tweaks to the system before resorting to LC or gfo or even carbon..

Thanks Matt, (What is LC??)

My wording "HOW quickly should I drop P?" was not what I meant to say.
I meant "HOW Slowly", but I do understand your point.

I need a stable/balanced system, not constant Yo-Yo adjustments (That fall apart when I get busy)

I think I have everything in place.

-> IMPORT (Good Fish load, Frequent Feeding)

-> EXPORT (Good Skimmer, ATS, Easy-Water changes)

----> I think WATER CHANGES are the best thing I have.

---------> ATS comes 2nd since it's auto regulating (Adjusts SLOWLY to changes in Nutrients)
--------------> I will be in good shape one my new Screen matures.

---------------> Skimmer is needed now (but perhaps someday it can be shut down, or run less frequently as ATS kicks in))


--> No additives (Stopped Aminos).

But I am thinking (just thinking (reading about) one Additive). IRON
I been reading that weekly IRON top up can assist ATS Macro Growth, and if used properly, beneficial to Corals.
(((( BUt again, my Frequent Water changes, should be good enough, and let's see what new screen runs like ))))

 

[Wally.B]

.....
Is there a fuge there as well?
Even if you resort to gfo or carbon, you should always begin at way less than recommended levels and work up slowly..

Having said all that, n of 2-5 and p of .1 ish is not a huge concern. You could work on p a little but I’d try small tweaks to the system before resorting to LC or gfo or even carbon..

I do have that 5 Gallon Fuge built into Sump. (Water changer compartment)
It's not what I would call an Super Active Fuge.
-> No lighting except from room Light, and MH lights leaking from SPS Tank Fixture near by.
-> Just a 2-3" sandbed with dead SPS pieces as Bacteria Growth Media and acts a buffer zone. (Bed has critter glore, from Serpent Starfish, Copepod, and Bristle worm, etc)
-> No macro (since ATS is Macro).
-----> Plus in case you forgot, I have the MARINEPURE Ceramic BIO wall in Sump

As far as Carbon. I've removed any I had (permanently). But my plan is some Carbon baggie polishing maybe once a month (for 12-24 hours).

GFO. No need at this point. (Some day, when P gets stable and lower than 0.1)

 

[sensei]

Wally,

have you ever dosed iron?
I was reading the same thing.
I have never dosed iron, but I read an article from Randy Holmes and he recommended to dose iron for algae filters. The thing is that he also mentioned that it can also encourage other kinds of algae and I do not want algae in dt to be encouraged.

 

[sensei]

Wally,
do you still have the pod farm connected to any of your tanks?
I am thinking of doing one, but not sure how to do it?

 

[Wally.B]

Wally,

have you ever dosed iron?
I was reading the same thing.
I have never dosed iron, but I read an article from Randy Holmes and he recommended to dose iron for algae filters. The thing is that he also mentioned that it can also encourage other kinds of algae and I do not want algae in dt to be encouraged.

HAHA.

You must had read the same Randy Article I did.
No I never dosed Iron, and as I said, not point risking anything at this point.
My ATS is starting to speed up. My water changes bring in fresh Iron balanced with all other Trace Elements.
But as Randy say, if you do dose Iron (sparingly) you must use a Cheated Iron.

 

[Wally.B]

Wally,
do you still have the pod farm connected to any of your tanks?
I am thinking of doing one, but not sure how to do it?

Yes, I have my Copepod farm. Been running very well for over a year (from one starter batch. 10th generation pods)

No it not connected to any of my Tank for a Good Reason.
---> Copepod farm is Filthy. My N=200+, Never tested P

And filthy works best!!!

I just harvest Pods and put into tank every once in a while when I see large population. I do my farm mostly for my Mandarin.

All you need is a 1-2 Gallon Jar, or to make easier to clean 5 Gallon Tank (like I have).
Add pods (I use Reef Nutrition Tiger Pods) and Airline for bubbled oxygen (no airstone, just bubbles_.
NO heater.
Room light is good enough.

Water changes once every 3-6 months (not joking)

To harvest pods you should get a Sieve. I have two (100 micro for Pods, 75 Micron for Napeui (baby pods)
You can use Sieves to scoop out pods from Copepod Farm. Light rinse with clean water, and straight into you tank or sump.

And when I do water changes, I run airline and drain Farm through both sieves, (fill back with new water) and put back pods.

When pods grow there will be a sediment at bottom of farm. I never remove it, since it's where the baby pods are.
WHen too much acculimated, you put thru sieve rinsing with TAP water. They are hardy so tap water is fine.

For food you need Phytoplankton/Rotifers. I just use Reef Nutrition Phytopheast.

I documented some of my Farm details here.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2463026

 

[Wally.B]

Side Show ( IceFire and Pacman) 1 Week Sneak Peek

Most of the Frags are covered and out of sight. (For the Nov 10th Strip Show). Might be a Live Stream Event.

But as I pass by back of tank, it's hard not to notice the WHITE Bleaching on one of the Original $7 Frag (once that wasn't doing well)

I did leave two frags visible (not Covered), so it's all I have to go on.

No worries at this point.

The good news is I had these two Frag in not so long ago past, and I pooched them both pretty quickly.

 

[sensei]

Yes, I have my Copepod farm. Been running very well for over a year (from one starter batch. 10th generation pods)

No it not connected to any of my Tank for a Good Reason.
---> Copepod farm is Filthy. My N=200+, Never tested P

And filthy works best!!!

I just harvest Pods and put into tank every once in a while when I see large population. I do my farm mostly for my Mandarin.

All you need is a 1-2 Gallon Jar, or to make easier to clean 5 Gallon Tank (like I have).
Add pods (I use Reef Nutrition Tiger Pods) and Airline for bubbled oxygen (no airstone, just bubbles_.
NO heater.
Room light is good enough.

Water changes once every 3-6 months (not joking)

To harvest pods you should get a Sieve. I have two (100 micro for Pods, 75 Micron for Napeui (baby pods)
You can use Sieves to scoop out pods from Copepod Farm. Light rinse with clean water, and straight into you tank or sump.

And when I do water changes, I run airline and drain Farm through both sieves, (fill back with new water) and put back pods.

When pods grow there will be a sediment at bottom of farm. I never remove it, since it's where the baby pods are.
WHen too much acculimated, you put thru sieve rinsing with TAP water. They are hardy so tap water is fine.

For food you need Phytoplankton/Rotifers. I just use Reef Nutrition Phytopheast.

I documented some of my Farm details here.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2463026

Thanks,

I will read that thread and get back to you.
do you keep track of that thread?
should I ask about that in there or here?

 

[sensei]

HAHA.

You must had read the same Randy Article I did.
No I never dosed Iron, and as I said, not point risking anything at this point.
My ATS is starting to speed up. My water changes bring in fresh Iron balanced with all other Trace Elements.
But as Randy say, if you do dose Iron (sparingly) you must use a Cheated Iron.

yes, should be that one.
I have chelated iron in my work, so it would be easy to get it pure, but I am afraid to test.

 

[Wally.B]

Thanks,

I will read that thread and get back to you.
do you keep track of that thread?
should I ask about that in there or here?

Post there. This thread is cluttered enough.

 

[Wally.B]

KILLER Cowrie (Caught Red Snouted Again) Killer or Cleaner???

So one of my Torches from other Tank was on last breath (after that PH spike).

Since it looked like it wouldn't recover, I thought no big risk to try saving in FRAG Tank.

I decided to put on Right side where LED lighting is (MH might be too strong)

Thought Cowrie doesn't eat LPS Polyp, only SPS. WRONG!!!

Earlier today, I saw him hanging around Torch Trunk thinking just cleaning specs of Algae.

Then I was passing Frag Tank an noticed he was digging into the Torches Head, ripping out the Guts (you see floating on left of Torch).

I doubt he was cleaning. HE WAS RIPPING TORCH APART.

Torch is half dead anyway, but I movef it to other side of Frag Tank.

Bad COWRIE. Dangerious Cowrie.

 

[Wally.B]

The TIGER Cowrie wasn't cleaning the Torch!!!

When I first saw the Attack, it's snout was digging into the Healthy side of the Torch.

I tapped it with a stick, and ran to grab my camera and took that photo with it Cowrie retracted (Red Snout out).

I had little hope for the Golden Aussie Torch. Most torches once they start dying never make it. So I'm not upset.

Good lesson learned to keep this Cowrie away from all living corals.

Eventually he'll go back into the DT Refuge or the Frag Tank Baffle box since I want this Frag Tank full operational.

 

[Wally.B]

ok. I peeked a bit a the frags from the back side.

Glad I was a Peeping Tom

Some creature lifted and knocked off one of the frags. It was hanging on the rack leaning against the Nicely Recovering Monti (Frag-Tip down).

Monti sustained a very TINY scar, but the Frag Bleached tip down half way.
Glad it was one of the $7 Frags that wasn't doing that well.

I still like the blindfold (for stress relief), but I will glance squinting so I don't see details to check on the Frags every once in a while.

Full Strip Peeling show is still next Friday, but may this weekend we'll have the beauties strip half way, and do a Topless show only.

The bottom show with hoping some encrustmenting will be as planned.

 

[Wally.B]

[[ Friday Night ]] STRIP SHOW - PART 1 ( TIPS )

Here we go......

Let's see those TIPS !!!

11 of 14 survivors (FOR MY TANK) isn't too bad.

The 3 bad ones had initial health problems.

GOOD NEWS all decliners are the $7 Frags.

No worries about the Prized Pieces (So Far)

 

[Wally.B]

Time for Inspection (Why the 3 Bad Frags went Bad?)

Here they are anyway (NO Encrustment Closeups, that will be Next Friday's Strip Show)

I need to understand if 3 Frags are just weak ones, or something else.
If something dangerous, I need to identify before others get affected.

-> One Frag I understand why it bleached. (Knocked over onto Monti, and direct contact).

-> However the 2nd wasn't doing that bad.

-> One is half bleached and probably won't survive.

INTERESTING PART is both the Bleached Frags have one of the Serpent Bristle Stars on them.

And this (2nd One) also has a bristle worm.

Should be an issue, but I always wondered why the Plating Monti went bad so quickly, after years of nothing.

 

[Wally.B]

Close Investigation (COMPARISION) BLUE ACRO [ SPS TANK vs FRAG TANK ]

So I took at rough look at Frag Plugs, and it's clear there isn't much encrusting going on.

Best thing I have is those two Deep Blu Acros that I threw one into each tank.

-> The SPS tank has been somewhat Stable (water parameter), lighting is being ramped up (photoperiod, and PARS)
----------> FRAG doesn't look great at bottom
----------> Coloration look pretty good

-> The FRAG tank has been very Unstable (HIGH P, P drops, etc)
----------> FRAG isn't receding at Bottom like SPS Tank Frag
----------> Frag is a browner than SPS tank Frag
----------> PE is about the same

I would say the FRAG tank FRAG look Healthier in general (and that is what concerns me).

I wish to use this double frag opportunity to address anything (if possible) before the other FRAGs are negatively affected.

Any thoughts?
------> Keep Watching closely (change nothing)
------> Continue to increase PhotoPeriod in SPS tank (Currently at 5:45 Hours, Target is 6:30-8 HRS)

I am doing DAILY (3% water changes) in SPS tank as a SLOW way of bringing down P and in general keeping water quality high.

 

[Wally.B]

Mexican Turbo Snail ( Frag Flipper/Knocker ) Will be Janked!!

Put a web Timelapse CAM on Frag and caught the Turbo Snail almost flipping another Frag (same spot).

He's already knocked off two other Frags on Rocks (Forest Fire, Monti), on top of the Frag he dropped onto Plating Monti.

I think Sump Duty is best place till all Frags are mounted.
ACTUALLY, Why not Frag Tank. He won't eat Corals (Like the Cowrie) !!

 

[Wally.B]

 

[Wally.B]

FRAGS Update (Not as Bad as I thought) Trying to save a couple of STN's

So I removed the Cover-Up Strip and did some base inspections.

No Entrustment, but that's OK.

Actually I don't have any noticable growth across the new Frags.

Other than the IceFire which doesn't look that great, SSC weakly showing PE, many the Frags are doing ok.

What I noticed while Inspecting CloseUp Photos of all my Corals is they are improving in Color.
They are also getting kind of Beefier thicker skin, and PE.

So I can live with that.
I'm still slowly increasing PhotoPeriod, and that should help.

Two $7 Frags are doing STN from bottom up, like a Themometer.
I can't watch them fade away, (ESPECIALLY since TOP look really good)
PLUGS are not that great looking (Green Cyano/Alage build up)

Just $7 Frag, so I dipped them in ATI MELAFIX, cut just at Healthy part, and put on New Clean Plugs into some Putty and glue.

(FRAG #05)

(FRAG #10)

Will they survive (the cutting), we'll see. But they were going to die doing nothing.

Everything now looks better without the Bleaching Frags.
Back to 100% all good Frags!! [2 Fixed, 2 Thrown out]