My thoughts on copperbands

Paul B

Premium Member
I have always been drawn to more odd shaped fish like copperband butterflies, frogfish, pipefish, seahorses etc, but copperbands always keep me facinated. They are not very rare and not real difficult but many people have trouble keeping them, or even getting them to eat.
In the early 70s I started to write a book (that I will never finish) and I noticed in my notes that copperbands were one of the first fish I used to keep, right after blue devils, clowns and dominoes.
In those days I didn't have the food choices I have now and I also didn't have the experience, but neither did anyone else so it was trial and error.
The biggest hurdle in keeping a copperband is getting a healthy one. I know that is a problem with many fish but it seems that copperbands or any very skinny fish have more trouble than most during collection. I have found that many specimins aquire internal injuries either during collection or during transport. This is sometimes noticable as a very faint darker patch on the fishes sides. This discoloration I have found during many autopsies is from internal bleeding. I am not sure if a rib breaks and punctures a blood vessel or just cuts the muscle. This dark patch eventually darkens and the fish dies.
A fish with this flattened shape is vulnerable to injuries more than say a clownfish which has a much more robust body shape and it's ribs are shielded behind it's powerful tail muscles. There is not much to a copperband and it's ribs are practically at it's skin so there is no cushening. It's snout is also a detriment to the fish when it comes to confinement as it is very delicate as is it's tiny mouth. Don't forget, in that thin snout has to be blood vessels and tendons to operate that jaw along with enough space to allow food to slide through while at the same time admit water to breathe.

But the good news is that it is "fairly" easy to pick a healthy copperband butterfly. By the way a copperband is a "chelmen" and there are 3 similar shaped chelmen's that I know of. But back to healthy copperbands. I have swam with these on the reefs and they are always on the move. All fish with tiny mouths are always on the move because they can not eat much at one meal so they have to constantly hunt. That tiny mouth is not much good to kill anything much larger than a fraction of an inch and a copperband is not a particularly fast fish but it is smart. How do I know how smart it is? The only reason it doesn't do well on standardised tests is because it doesn't have thumbs to hold the pencil so trust me, it's smart. You just have to look at a tank full of fish and you will see. Most fish, like angels, tangs and manta rays just swim around aimlessly but a copperband seems to have a mission. That is how you can tell it is healthy. Copperbands have a personality and each fish has a different one. Some eat aiptasia, some only eat clams and some only worms. But almost everything they eat is either crawling or sticking out of a rock. That is the purpose of that snout.
They use it to pull tiny creatures out of their dens. On the reefs copperbands live on aiptasia, tiny shrimp, fish fry and worms. So a healthy copperband should be constantly looking closely at either the substrait or in holes in rocks.
If it is swimming around looking at you, the ceiling or a picture on the wall of Paris Hilton, it may not be in good shape as they are always hungry. Healthy ones will be constantly staring at something on a rock or the sand that they thought they saw move. If they don't find it, they move on to the next possable snack.
If you come across a few of them in a tank, you can easily tell the healthy ones and the ones that won't make it a week. They are not like most fish as most fish can eat once and not worry about food for a week, copperbands, due to their tiny mouth, can not.
So if you find a copperband that looks alert, seems to be searching for food, doesn't have any discolorations or missing scales, is not shaking or starring at pictures of Miss Hilton, then ask the store owner to feed him. If he doesn't eat, don't buy him. The employee will say that they just got him or he was just fed or he is a little stressed from transport, just woke up, has a headache, athletes foot or any number of things, but don't buy it. Of course if it eats, then buy it or don't ask the guy to feed it.

When you get this fish home, if you quarantine it (and that is up to you) I would be careful not to put it in a tiny tank as some of them do not do well in tight quarters.
But once you aclimate it to your reef they need some extra care, not like a damsel that you can feed Alpo, Cheerios or crackers. This fish needs worms or something like a worm. They will eat tiny pieces of clam, mysis or the best food, live blackworms. If you can not feed these foods, IMO don't get a copperband. They can live on other things (if they eat it) but if you want to keep it for quite a few years, they need meaty foods like I stated. If you want to feed pellets and flakes, your copperband will not like you and he will almost certainly not eat it.
Copperbands also eat pods or anything tiny enough for them to see and it is better to feeded this fish a couple of times a day especially if you are one of those people with a sterile tank who goes to church to pray that that tiny bit of hair algae goes away. Copperbands do not always come from pristine reefs as they are also found in silty tidal inlets far from the coral reef. They are constant pickers and a slightly messier tank is better for them as they can hunt and hopefully find something for a snack. Healthy copperbands will constantly hunt even in a bare glass tank with nothing in it, but they won't live long there.

I don't want to make it sound like a copperband is the easiest fish in the world, where you can keep it in damp sawdust instead of seawater, but they are not as difficult as moorish Idols or whale sharks. I also can't keep one for 10 years even though most of my fish live much longer than that, but I can and have kept many of them over 5 years which is not great but for some reason they seem to be accident prone as I have found mandarins are also. I also discovered many times that they do jump out and if you have any agressive fish, they will jump. They can take care of themselves as their dorsal spines are sharp and their only means of defense.

Anyway, these are only my opinions so do with this information what you will. I am sure many people know these things already as people have been keeping this beautiful fish for over forty years.

This first picture shows that dark discoloration I mentioned. It eventually got worse and an autopsy revealed internal bleeding
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Interesting read!

I used to have a copperband that would eat almost anything! I lost him a couple of months ago in a move. (The only fish I lost). Pretty disappointed as I really liked that fish!
 
Love reading your posts....in spite of the infatuation with Miss Hilton..

You should seriously consider finishing that book...I'd buy...
 
Good read. I have one now that I got a week ago. He's exactly as you describe, constantly looking at the rock work for food. Mine has been eating pemysis from the pet store and I feed him 3 times a day. Although I didn't notice until I got him in my aquarium that he has a damaged scale :(
 
Here is a short video of mine eating some new born brine shrimp from the mandarin feeder

The video does not work for me so it probably won't work for you, sorry

 
I took this in Tahiti, yes I know it is not a copperband but humor me and make believe, I didn't take any copperband pictures. Long Nose butterflies are a different species and look and act very similar.
Look how long the snouts are on these butterflies. Some copperbands have long snouts also depending on where they come from

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I actually have many years of experience with copperbands and clams in the same tank as I have been keeping them together ever since clams came on the market in the 80s.
I personally never saw a copperband nip a clam but I know many people report that they do. Even though I feed my copperband clams almost every day, he has never touched any clams. I am not sure a copperband would have a lot of luck ripping off a piece of a healthy clam but I have been known to be wrong.
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Thanks for the very informative narration Paul.

I have always had a desire to own one, but I never have based on the stigma of many not being able to keep them long term.
However... I am rethinking this.
Since I have upgraded to a larger tank and removed a pesky six-line wrasse, the vermetid snails have no predator to keep them in check.
Could a Copperband Butterflyfish help me put? I realize that all fish are different and you can not teach them what you want them to do. Eat the snails, but leave my corals and clams alone.
Maybe someday when a nice specimen shows up, I'll give one a chance.

I would also like to see you finish the book.
 
Paul, another great read! I can honestly say I look forward to each of your threads. :)

I'm curious, have you attempted to add a/the second copperband to the tank yet with the existing one? Curious how it goes for you as I do want to try to pair some myself down the road.
 
Could a Copperband Butterflyfish help me put? I realize that all fish are different and you can not teach them what you want them to do. Eat the snails, but leave my corals and clams alone.

I would not count on a copperband to eat snails. They can't crush Jello.
Even if they woule eat your snails, they would finish them off in a day. But they won't eat them, they need worms, clams and maybe mysis.

have you attempted to add a/the second copperband to the tank yet with the existing one?

Yes, you can't do that. They do not change sex and stay with their partner sometimes for life but usually just to mate, they don't usually tolerate each other in a tank.
Last week I introduced a beautiful, healthy slightly smaller copperband to my reef. In a few hours, this is what happened to that fish and now she is convelescing in another tank and when her fins grow back I am giving her away.

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Paul,

Thanks for the post.

I am curious as to your thoughts on acclimation of copperbands.

Some of the research I have done on reefcentral with respect to acclimation discusses how ammonia can build up in the transport bads over longer transportation periods. However, with respiration of CO2 the pH also drops making the ammonia less harmful as ammonium. However when the bag is opened the pH relatively quickly rises and the ammonia changes back to the more harmful ammonia form. It has been said, that at that point a long drip acclimation may actually become harmful and result in internal damage that will eventually lead to the fishes demise.

Do you have an opinion on this relative to Copperbands? Are they more sensitive to applying the proper acclimation method? If an issue, do you think that most LFS understand this and take that it into account when acclimating Copperbands?

Thanks again
 
I think you are overthinking this as to copperbands and all fish. I never have a problem with them or any fish. I just test salinity and if it is about the same as my tank, I only mix some of my tank with the fishes a couple of times and in 30 minutes or so introduce it to my tank. I have always done this and never lost a fish due to acclimation, ammonia or anything else. LFSs usually drip acclimate for much longer but their fish are very crowded and have been in a shipping container much longer.
Copperbands are more sensitive than most fish and a much larger percentage of them die in the first week or two than most fish. But if it lives 2 weeks, it has a very good chance to live five years or more if you feed them correctly. But the vast majority unfortunately die in the beginning.
 
Here is a short video of mine eating some new born brine shrimp from the mandarin feeder

The video does not work for me so it probably won't work for you, sorry


Paul the video works just fine here. Maybe its that Commodore 64 you use to playback videos.
 
Paul the video works just fine here. Maybe its that Commodore 64 you use to playback videos.

You are correct and sometimes this computer springs a steam leak or the crank gets some play in it.

What is your method if the salinity is off by a good bit?

Well it depends on how much is a bit. I am not that big on acclimation but if it is off by maybe 2 points I will acclimate a little longer, but I don't think I ever acclimated anything more than an hour in my life. I even acclimate brackish bumblebee gobies to my reef in 2 or 3 hours and they live fine. I feel the temperature is more important and don't put the fish in my tank if the water they are in is warmer. But usually 30 minutes or 45 is enough. I know people acclimate for hours but I feel that is very stressful for the animal and if you want to do that, maybe you should do it in the dark as it calms most fish.

Remember, this is what I do and I am not the God of fish. If you don't agree with my methods, as I am sure many people don't, then just experiment and do it your way, like Frank Sinatra.
I have been doing this for over fifty years and I learned a few things, but I am old and thick headed and very old school. There are probably better ways, but I don't know them. Most of my fish live a very long, seemingly happy life and if the majority of your fish die in less than a year, maybe you should take advice from someone who has better luck.
 
Another great read Paul,
Ive had a copperband in my reef for about 1.5 years and he ate everything from day one.
Then something really strange happened after I added a powderbrown tang to the tank,after a couple days of the tang grazing on some algae on the glass my wife noticed this silly copperband and his new best friend eating the algae together.We actually watched as he was pulling strands of hair algea off and eating it,so I guess I now have a confused butterfly thats thinks its a tang.....lol
 
Reefsandrotts, thats cool. I have had many and never saw any of them eat algae. I only had one that ate flakes.
 
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