My Ultimate Multi Mantis System(s)
- Thread starter Kharn
- Start date
Kharn
MANTISMAN
Tank is up has been water tested overnight to ensure it can hold water.
A few scallop chips came out of the base pane at the front of the tank but nothing that seems to of affected its overall integrity.
I just got to make a few adjustments to the Overflow stand pipes still, to increase flow through them and remove the bubbles.
A few scallop chips came out of the base pane at the front of the tank but nothing that seems to of affected its overall integrity.
I just got to make a few adjustments to the Overflow stand pipes still, to increase flow through them and remove the bubbles.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
The tank is quite tall but cleaning it should be a small chore because for 23hrs out of the 24hrs in each day, it will be kept dark.
There is a slimmer but taller steel stand encasing the entire aquarium and a good 3ft above it which will soon be like a cabinet so no ambient light can enter the tank.
There is also going to be no light above the tank that acts like a normal reef light, but a very expensive filming/photography light that will only be used when photographing and filming (that 1hr the other 23hrs per day it will be dark).
The display is going to have no bio life in it besides the mantis shrimp and prey they get, the sump has a 100L compartment just for live rock and another 100L compartment just for macro algae, those 2 compartments have LED lights but that light will not reach the display tank.
Display - 2400mmL x 600mmW x 700mmH
Sump - 2400mmL x 400mmW x 600mmH
Kharn
MANTISMAN
More pictures of the Display & Sump.
Silent Coast to Coast Overflow
Herbie style overflow you can see the backup pipe is just trickling a tiny amount but the primary is fully submerged, zero vortex, zero bubbles, totally silent operation.
Sump input plumbing, zero bubbles, silent operation, nice and smooth running.
Sump output plumbing, pump (5000L/H) and float for the elevated yet to be installed 250L fresh water Auto Top Off tank, needs more water in the sump at least until the float is stern and can go no further up (signifying a full tank and cutting water off from the Fresh Water ATO Reservoir).
Sump Left to Right - Input > Live Fish > Live Crabs > Macro Algae > Live Rock > Bubble Trap > Output.
Top View of the Display Tank showing how the water enters display and a nice tall divider preventing each side from accessing each other, the interior is going to be coated with acrylic sheeting that I have purchased and had cut to suit which will go in within the next 2-3days.
Getting close now to some kickass times!
Silent Coast to Coast Overflow
Herbie style overflow you can see the backup pipe is just trickling a tiny amount but the primary is fully submerged, zero vortex, zero bubbles, totally silent operation.
Sump input plumbing, zero bubbles, silent operation, nice and smooth running.
Sump output plumbing, pump (5000L/H) and float for the elevated yet to be installed 250L fresh water Auto Top Off tank, needs more water in the sump at least until the float is stern and can go no further up (signifying a full tank and cutting water off from the Fresh Water ATO Reservoir).
Sump Left to Right - Input > Live Fish > Live Crabs > Macro Algae > Live Rock > Bubble Trap > Output.
Top View of the Display Tank showing how the water enters display and a nice tall divider preventing each side from accessing each other, the interior is going to be coated with acrylic sheeting that I have purchased and had cut to suit which will go in within the next 2-3days.
Getting close now to some kickass times!
Calappidae
Harlequin Shrimp
This looks amazing!
Can wait to see some more unique stomatopods.
Can wait to see some more unique stomatopods.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
Custom Acrylic goes in tomorrow
All the diagrams in the world would still make it confusing so real photos themselves will be the best to describe it once its all done and in place.
I have also settled on a method of Water Changes and Storage.
There is going to be 2 large reservoirs.
The 1st reservoir is for Fresh Water (250L) which will be rigged into the return section of the sump via a pre drilled hole that a float valve is screwed into and the plumbing of the Fresh Water reservoir is in the back of the float valve, this is all Gravity fed so nothing electronic is involved, as the water drops from evaporation so does the float valve and as the float valve drops it opens up the gate in the valve releasing water, then as the float rises with the incoming water it will shut the gate, this is all rigged up optimally for the best operational depth in the sump and still ensuring that when the power goes out and the sump is at its fullest there is still 2inchs of space above the water in the sump.
The 2nd reservoir is for NSW 500L (Natural Sea Water), the plumbing for this will run from the reservoir and to the first chamber of the sump or where the display tanks input to sump plumbing is, this way new sea water being added will be going through the filtration system before getting to the display tank.
The way the 2nd reservoir will work is more for a backup plan because the rainy season here between Dec - Feb can see weeks of none stop down pours which runs off into the ocean and makes the water very muddy / silty and well less then optimal for NSW parameters. However outside of the rainy season and every two weeks 50% of the systems water will be drained and refilled directly from the ocean (no reservoir, that is only for backup) this water going directly to the aquarium from the sea via a large pump will first pass through a small pool sand filter and then into the aquarium itself.
These two reservoirs will have to be done early next year though because I am leaving here next wednesday and won't be back til mid Jan - Early Feb.
It might of taken a while but its going to be very worth it...
All the diagrams in the world would still make it confusing so real photos themselves will be the best to describe it once its all done and in place.
I have also settled on a method of Water Changes and Storage.
There is going to be 2 large reservoirs.
The 1st reservoir is for Fresh Water (250L) which will be rigged into the return section of the sump via a pre drilled hole that a float valve is screwed into and the plumbing of the Fresh Water reservoir is in the back of the float valve, this is all Gravity fed so nothing electronic is involved, as the water drops from evaporation so does the float valve and as the float valve drops it opens up the gate in the valve releasing water, then as the float rises with the incoming water it will shut the gate, this is all rigged up optimally for the best operational depth in the sump and still ensuring that when the power goes out and the sump is at its fullest there is still 2inchs of space above the water in the sump.
The 2nd reservoir is for NSW 500L (Natural Sea Water), the plumbing for this will run from the reservoir and to the first chamber of the sump or where the display tanks input to sump plumbing is, this way new sea water being added will be going through the filtration system before getting to the display tank.
The way the 2nd reservoir will work is more for a backup plan because the rainy season here between Dec - Feb can see weeks of none stop down pours which runs off into the ocean and makes the water very muddy / silty and well less then optimal for NSW parameters. However outside of the rainy season and every two weeks 50% of the systems water will be drained and refilled directly from the ocean (no reservoir, that is only for backup) this water going directly to the aquarium from the sea via a large pump will first pass through a small pool sand filter and then into the aquarium itself.
These two reservoirs will have to be done early next year though because I am leaving here next wednesday and won't be back til mid Jan - Early Feb.
It might of taken a while but its going to be very worth it
...
Kharn
MANTISMAN
The stand for the Freshwater Reservoir ATO has been built and completed and is now just drying!
The Freshwater Reservoir stand is offset a little forward so I can still access the rear of the aquarium stand (because only that same side is accessible due to plumbing on the other side) and so the plumbing of the reservoir lines up directly with the hole drilled in the sump rear wall that the float valve screws into and plumbing attached to it.
Up next is the larger stand for the NSW Reservoir with which will be a couple meters back from the whole system about 3-4m away, the plumbing for the NSW will run along the wall and into the 1st chamber of the Sump so all new NSW coming into the system will go through the sump entirely first.
The Freshwater Reservoir stand is offset a little forward so I can still access the rear of the aquarium stand (because only that same side is accessible due to plumbing on the other side) and so the plumbing of the reservoir lines up directly with the hole drilled in the sump rear wall that the float valve screws into and plumbing attached to it.
Up next is the larger stand for the NSW Reservoir with which will be a couple meters back from the whole system about 3-4m away, the plumbing for the NSW will run along the wall and into the 1st chamber of the Sump so all new NSW coming into the system will go through the sump entirely first.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
Been a nightmare getting the acrylic into the tank and fixed to the sides and rear of the interior but it's done!
I'll post pics tomorrow of it all, the premade burrows are going to have to be made back in Australia and brought back here with me in Jan-Feb next year, due to the inability of creating a clean straight long cut here with a grinder...need a table saw and clamp to do it effectively and cleanly.
I'll post pics tomorrow of it all, the premade burrows are going to have to be made back in Australia and brought back here with me in Jan-Feb next year, due to the inability of creating a clean straight long cut here with a grinder...need a table saw and clamp to do it effectively and cleanly.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
The display tank is 90% completed!
All the acrylic work is done and only 2 things remain both of which require things either done in Australia or brought back from Australia.
- White silicone to seal the vertical corners.
- The Burrows.
The flat base that splits the tank in half is not glued in place but resting snugly and the supports beneath it are not glued to the tank base or the acrylic it is supporting which will make it easy to remove the sheet above and the feet as well, the burrows will not be glued to the tank either.
This will make for easy cleaning when it should arise, the flat base that splits the tank in half has been cut so that it fits neatly and snug with just a 1-2mm gap around it this will allow water to get down to the bottom half for flow etc. but nothing else like fleeing creatures or the stars themselves (mantis shrimp).
All the acrylic work is done and only 2 things remain both of which require things either done in Australia or brought back from Australia.
- White silicone to seal the vertical corners.
- The Burrows.
The flat base that splits the tank in half is not glued in place but resting snugly and the supports beneath it are not glued to the tank base or the acrylic it is supporting which will make it easy to remove the sheet above and the feet as well, the burrows will not be glued to the tank either.
This will make for easy cleaning when it should arise, the flat base that splits the tank in half has been cut so that it fits neatly and snug with just a 1-2mm gap around it this will allow water to get down to the bottom half for flow etc. but nothing else like fleeing creatures or the stars themselves (mantis shrimp).
Kharn
MANTISMAN
Well after 5 and a half months my time is up and whilst I got some things done within that time that I needed to get done, I did not get everything done that I would of liked to of.
I'm now back in Australia and planning my return trip early next year around the end of January - Early February.
The tank has been wrapped up for protection whilst I am away for the next +2months.
Lots of items need be purchased here in Australia and taken back there simply because I cannot buy them over there.
Been back for 24hrs now and wished I was already back over there xD
I'm now back in Australia and planning my return trip early next year around the end of January - Early February.
The tank has been wrapped up for protection whilst I am away for the next +2months.
Lots of items need be purchased here in Australia and taken back there simply because I cannot buy them over there.
Been back for 24hrs now and wished I was already back over there xD
Kharn
MANTISMAN
I have purchased a few things for the system.
One is a much larger return pump (currently attached is a Eheim 5000LPH) but the new pump is a Laguna 16,500LPH.
There is also other things I am looking to purchase.
- 4 Marine Pure Blocks (8"x8"x4")
- 2 TLF550 Reactors
- 2 Laguna 750LPH pumps
- 2 Maxspec Gyres XF150
- 1.32kg Chemi-Pure Elite
- 5000mL Rowa Phos
So the primary filtration besides weekly/fortnightly 50% water changes is going to be Marine Pure, Macro Algae & Reactors.
One is a much larger return pump (currently attached is a Eheim 5000LPH) but the new pump is a Laguna 16,500LPH.
There is also other things I am looking to purchase.
- 4 Marine Pure Blocks (8"x8"x4")
- 2 TLF550 Reactors
- 2 Laguna 750LPH pumps
- 2 Maxspec Gyres XF150
- 1.32kg Chemi-Pure Elite
- 5000mL Rowa Phos
So the primary filtration besides weekly/fortnightly 50% water changes is going to be Marine Pure, Macro Algae & Reactors.
Kharn
MANTISMAN
Got a new pump today to replace the Eheim5000LPH pump that I had been using.
This one is the Laguna16,500LPH pump! Over 3x the output I am hoping that with it at full power it can replace the powerheads for the tanks overall water movement! This will help to maintain the tanks interior uniform appearance (no bulk bulk heads etc.)
This one is the Laguna16,500LPH pump! Over 3x the output I am hoping that with it at full power it can replace the powerheads for the tanks overall water movement! This will help to maintain the tanks interior uniform appearance (no bulk bulk heads etc.)
Kharn
MANTISMAN
PLUMBING CHANGES
Due to the size of the new acquired pump certain changes are going to have to be made to the aquarium if I wish to maximize the pumps overall capability, which happens to be 16,500LPH (over 3x the current pump (Eheim 5000) size but less then twice the power usage of the current, I am hoping that due to the sheer size of the pump I might be able to get away without needing any actual powerheads inside the display halves themselves, not just because of the sheer volume of water being pumped through the system but also in the manner it is distributed into the display halves.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
The first diagram details the new Overflow system, instead of 2 stand pipes at 35mm each, there will be 4 at 40mm each, this is to account for the sheer volume of water being produced from the return pump I used the reefcentral online overflow calculator to determine how large the hole(s) would need to be for the overflow to support the 16,500LPH which is a around 72mm so rather then used straight 75mm-80mm I went with 2x40mm, there are 4 because 2 of them are 99% active and the other 2 are 1% active (backups).
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
The second diagram details the new Reactor system & new Pump, the smallest nozzle choice on the Laguna Pump is 32mm so I am using 32mm poly pipe from pipe and T right up to just before the ball valves on the reactors so their is maximum pressure.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
The third diagram details the new Output from Return system, the idea here is that each half has 2 individual inputs spaced at either ends of each half of the tank (4 total) however within each half its 2 individual return inputs they are linked via an almost but not quite spray bar, instead of holes there is a long narrow slit running the length this length is the length of the entire half of the tank (4ft) this "spray bar" is positioned just below the overflow rim, I am hoping this distributes water evenly across the entire surface area of the each half of the entire display the best way I like to describe it (if it works...) would be like a "Maxspec Gyre Return Output".
If this works as I hope it will be very low profile as only the 15mm pvc will actually be submerged and it will be uniform just below the rim of the overflow and it will hopefully prevent the requirement of powerheads themselves which makes the entire interior all the more low profile and uniform.
Due to the size of the new acquired pump certain changes are going to have to be made to the aquarium if I wish to maximize the pumps overall capability, which happens to be 16,500LPH (over 3x the current pump (Eheim 5000) size but less then twice the power usage of the current, I am hoping that due to the sheer size of the pump I might be able to get away without needing any actual powerheads inside the display halves themselves, not just because of the sheer volume of water being pumped through the system but also in the manner it is distributed into the display halves.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
The first diagram details the new Overflow system, instead of 2 stand pipes at 35mm each, there will be 4 at 40mm each, this is to account for the sheer volume of water being produced from the return pump I used the reefcentral online overflow calculator to determine how large the hole(s) would need to be for the overflow to support the 16,500LPH which is a around 72mm so rather then used straight 75mm-80mm I went with 2x40mm, there are 4 because 2 of them are 99% active and the other 2 are 1% active (backups).
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
The second diagram details the new Reactor system & new Pump, the smallest nozzle choice on the Laguna Pump is 32mm so I am using 32mm poly pipe from pipe and T right up to just before the ball valves on the reactors so their is maximum pressure.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
The third diagram details the new Output from Return system, the idea here is that each half has 2 individual inputs spaced at either ends of each half of the tank (4 total) however within each half its 2 individual return inputs they are linked via an almost but not quite spray bar, instead of holes there is a long narrow slit running the length this length is the length of the entire half of the tank (4ft) this "spray bar" is positioned just below the overflow rim, I am hoping this distributes water evenly across the entire surface area of the each half of the entire display the best way I like to describe it (if it works...) would be like a "Maxspec Gyre Return Output".
If this works as I hope it will be very low profile as only the 15mm pvc will actually be submerged and it will be uniform just below the rim of the overflow and it will hopefully prevent the requirement of powerheads themselves which makes the entire interior all the more low profile and uniform.
Last edited:
gozermantis
Stomatoholic
I got a lot of catching up to do on this! Haven't been here in forever!
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