My wood tank build

The pumps are actually calibrated to deliver 5 parts resin to 1 part hardner. There is no way I would tackle a project this size without them. They work great.

I only used Gorilla Glue in the inside 45 corner reinforcements. These, by the way, sure make fiberglass layup in the corners easier.

The angle iron is actually sandwiched in the wood with thickened epoxy. West System has some good data showing pretty good shear strength on metal if you sand it with 80 grit to give it some "teeth" for the epoxy to adhear to. I also used 1/4 saw straight grain douglas fir for all the face and top. Real strong stuff (but expensive).
 
Yeah, I saw the vertical grain. Sands and paints up pretty nicely. The 45's are a brilliant idea. Lapping the seams rather than butting them. Now, get in there and SAND... we want pictures!
 
Thanks for clearing up that process for us. Just a fantastic idea! Keep us posted..........

@rppvt

10ft would be sweet, I think you could go uber silly and get around or close to 1,200g 120x48x48 inside. I would do it but I don't have room, wait I do! Just have to find 10ft sheets of ply!! LOL!

KW
 
Nice work. It looks like your previous tank set a pretty high mark for you to reach with the new one.

Try to keep us up to date.
 
I too am watching this very closely, as also planning something similar for an inwall, probably the same size too.

I plan on a closed loop system, I have read through the posts but I'm intruiged to know how strong the tank will be with multiple holes drilled throughout the back and base.

How strong do you think the tank will be?

Cheers.
 
Nothing new to report except it takes a long time to lay up fiberglass. I plan to drill 4, 2" intake holes in the back and sides for closed loop inlets. I'll drill 4 more 1.5" holes across the back near the bottom for closed loop returns under the sand bed. The other closed loop inlets will come from the top. There will be other holes in the overflow box, of course.

So, "How strong do you think the tank will be?" All I can say is I'm no structural engineer, but, if it's not strong enough, it will likely be my last home-made tank. Or any tank for that matter. Know what I mean? I swear, my wife had developed occular problems as a result of this build. Her eyes roll around in her head every time she looks at the project. I think she needs to see an optomitrist about it.

Truthfully, I'm not worried about the bulkheads at all. I am worried about a good glass seal and the strength of the euro-style top brace. Time will tell.

Next up, glass the ends. Need to stand the tank on end for this. Should be exiting.

Del
 
i think you will be good as long as you put the glass on good....build looks better then most wood tank i have seen..
 
@dsandfort

Wifes worry, That's what they do! Even if it is idiot proof mine still would find something to "Wonder" about.

You should try and put 30K into a car and then Turbocharge it. I think all that I heard was "Is it going to blow up!" for a year. When I asked to be given a reason for the question, or as to how she thinks it would all that I got was "I'm just worried!". She also had to include the threat "If it does you won't get a New one!" LOL............ Mostly like us they are afraid of what they do not know. I just try to ask why she "Feels" the way she does and to put her at ease explain why it "Should" not happen...............

Tank looks more then strong enough to me. Like you I will be worried about a good seal on the glass. I have not heard of too many problems with Glass though, mostly Acrylic. Just use LOTS! of Silicone is all the advice I have received from others and I'm sure that is also what you have read too.

Take your time and don't rush, We can get our picture fix when you have time to keep us up to date. I'm just glad that you chose to share with us!

KW
 
I love West System epoxy. Been using it for years!. They actually have a newsletter they send maybe 2x a year, with readers projects, destructive testing, etc. Very cool.

You are doing everything perfectly for a good strong build. Some of the ply tanks out there are more wood box than tank, IMO.

I'd use Dow 795 to hold the glass to the frame. Super strong sticky stuff. Waterdog Products uses it for their fiberglass tanks.
Cant wait to see more, but dont envy you in your Tyvek with a sander:D
 
Thanks H2OENG-I've been operating on what looks strong to me. Glad you think it looks the same. Since the glass seal will be compression only, I thought regular silicone would be fine. Do you think I need more of a structural sealant? My plan was to place 1/4" plastic bumbers in the silicone so it would only squeeze out leaving that thickness. I am planning to use pvc pipe with threaded fittings to "jack" the glass into the silicone. What do you think?

I HATE SANDING!! However, I rigged up a vacuum to the sander and it sure keeps the dust down (no Tyvek and not even a respirator). Biggest problem is clogging the vacuum filter every evening.

Tank is on it's end. HOLY TOLEDO! It looks twice as big standing on end. I'll get a picture tomorrow.

Del
 
I want you to know that if you don't fail, (and i'm trusting you won't) I'm tempted to jump back into the wooden tank world, myself. Don't do what I did when I was 16 and put the glass in BEFORE the resin. Genius.
 
Lookin Good Del,

I also really love the west systems, low voc`s are always nice when your doing the work in a 18 x 12 shop..lol.

Heh, when you mentioned the tyvek, i remembered when i was sanding mine up i put my clothes in the wash with the wifes and the daughters....
Needless to say the next day they were yellin at me while they scratched themselves raw. :lol:

Glad to see your hard at it.

Marc.
 
Nice, I love my 300 Gallon Fiberglass tank. It saved so much money to put elsewhere in the reef. Will watch yours. The only downside is that I did not go bigger...
Leon
 
This is exciting :D Planning on one of these in my future house.

Epoxy is probably the best option for resin, but I guess the polyester would be cheaper? Would still put epoxy on top so it is "potable." Also see that you are using the expensive option as far as glass fiber is concerned. The 90 deg fiber cloth is more expensive I guess? All in all wood tanks are great options. Can be made to any shape as well.

Dan
 
Like several others that have already posted, I too am about to start my plywood tank. Will finish the tank room this weekend. Taped and mudded it last weekend, install linoleum and paint it this weekend.

Some questions. Would it be easier to fiberglass and apply the six coats of epoxy to each piece (bottom, back, and sides) before putting it together. Then build the tank, install the corner pieces and fiberglass/epoxy the corners, top and front last?

You mentioned only using glue on the 45 degree corner pieces, so you didn't use glue in the joints of the plywood, just screwed them together?

What's the dimensions of your overflow?

Great pictures by the way, expecially the detail in the angle iron add-on. That's a great idea, think I might add it to mine. I had originally thought I'd have to use the metal rod from front to back, but this might be a good alternative.
 
What I did was put one coat of glass on each piece of wood then put it all together. You want it together to make the joints and seems bonded together forever and man is it strong.

That's what i did, not sure about Del.

Leon
 
Dan-
Polyester resin is cheaper. I think Fudge went this route. West System runs about $125 a gallon here and I figure I didn’t want to save on what I consider the most important part. I’m trying to follow the West System guide for tank building which calls for about 20 mil thickness of epoxy. Besides, what’s a few hundred dollars in the scope of things?

The woven fiberglass is a bit more but I like working with it better than the mat style.

Hi Mark- Sure wish my fish room was as far along as yours.

I considered your idea of finishing each panel separately but felt I might loose some structural strength. The way I did it ends up with at least 4 layers of fiberglass on each corner. However, it's become a PITA rolling and tipping this thing on the appropriate side/end. Leon's method might be a good compromise.

All the joints were done with epoxy and screws except the inside 45s which were done with gorilla glue and a nail gun.

The overflow is a coast-to-coast style so it is 94.5 inches long. I put the 2 "tabs" in it to mount wavy sea devices. The box is about 6" wide and about 12-14" deep (not home right now so I can't measure for you). The bottom is 1 1/2" thick by laminating 2 strips of plywood together. I did this so it provides a good support brace for the back of the tank. I think Fudge did this so it is not an original idea (could have been someone else though).

I won't know about the angle iron support until I fill 'er up. I hope it's enough, but I am prepared to add bracing if I get too much deflection.

Ian- you can see it in person any time you want.

Del
 
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