My wood tank build

[dsandfort]

I wish I was ready for glass, I wish my tank room was done, I wish.....Oh, nevermind.

I was planning on going 1/2" since the pane is less than 30" tall. I have not tried to find low iron but that is the plan. I do not plan to use tempered for the reason slandis3 stated. If I can find low iron in 3/8" I'll look in to laminating it to 3/4".

I just got a fantastic Flame wrasse harem and I can't wait to see the male displaying in the new tank. He is quite handsome in the Q-tank.

 

[masharp1126]

What kind of glass to wood overlap are you doing?

While the actual inside height of mine will be 33", the actual viewing opening will only be about 27" or 28". I want the bottom wood panel to come up about 4" to hide most of the DSB. So, if I only need a 1" overlap, I can cut the glass size down to 29" or 30". Save some money and get away with 1/2" thick.

 

[waynesworld]

Hay that sounds a lot like what I did I am also going to hide plumbing in the front too.

 

[dsandfort]

Pretty much the same here Mark. My ovelap is about 1 1/2" and I built the same bottom lip to hide much of the sand. I also cut a "shelf" on the bottom inside corner brace so the glass can actually sit on the lip which should eliminate all sheer forces in the silicone. You could do the same thing by letting the glass sit on the bottom of the tank but then you wouldn't have the corner brace.

I will run one of the CLs under the sand to the front of the tank and then fire it back.

 

[waynesworld]

That is a good idea I could put a 1by to make the ledge to set the glass on I was thinking of putting a little v grove to use the weight of the glass to seal it to the side.

 

[masharp1126]

With the top bracing in place, how do you plan to get the glass inside?

 

[dsandfort]

Good question. A fellow by the name of Pythagoras helped me out with this one. I sized the top braces so the glass will fit through the top on the diagonal (hypotenuse) of the triangle. I'll have about an inch clearance to spare. Length squared plus width squared = diagonal squared.

 

[masharp1126]

Gottcha, thought that might be the case, but wanted to check. I'll have to pull out my daughter's geometry book.

 

[PUGroyale]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9190931#post9190931 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dsandfort
Good question. A fellow by the name of Pythagoras helped me out

great guy... really knows how to party

 

[masharp1126]

Just got off the phone with Binswanger Glass again and now that I've dropped the glass size from 70" by 33" to 70" by 30", and changed it to non-tempered, the price has dropped from $600 to only $430. More in line with what I was hoping for.

 

[masharp1126]

On the top, looks like you just ran the top (eurobracing) along the front and sides, and not down the back. Is that true? or did I miss it in the pictures.

Also, what did you use to apply the epoxy? Brush, roller, etc.

 

[rppvt]

In theory Pythagoras is great--- as long as he abides by Murphy's Laws...

 

[aztbs]

I am floored by this project. I had a fantasy dream about this exact kind of build and instead I chickened out and put up a glass 180. (the house didn't really support a much bigger tank anyway)

I still have those little thoughts about this adventure being in my future. For now I will live vicariously through your photos! :lol: I have to work on talking the hubby in to it for the next house. It looks like you have some serious skills. I can't wait to see the progress. Thanks for sharing!!

 

[dsandfort]

Mark-
The Euro-brace is front and sides with a modified brace on the back of the overflow box. You can kind of see it in the second photo, page 2. Better photo to come. I really couldn't use a full euro across the back and still be able to get in the overflow to work.

First coat of epoxy/fiberglass is applied with a squeegee to take out most of the epoxy. You don't want the fiberglass to float in the epoxy, you want it to be glued to the wood. Subsequent coats were brushed on.

aztbs - thanks, and go for it. I'll be down your way next month.

 

[ittybitty]

Does the epoxy make the tank waterproof by itself or do you need to apply the paint to seal it?

 

[AcroSteve]

The epoxy is what makes it waterproof.

 

[dsandfort]

If I do a good job with the epoxy it will (should) be waterproof. I'm painting the inside to get the background color I want.

Also, West System is an amine-based epoxy and there is a possibility of leaching some amine compounds. Although I did folllow the West System data sheed on tank building to reduce this possibility. The paint will help seal this off.

 

[rppvt]

Pictures?

 

[dsandfort]

Sadly, it still looks like the shots on page 2. Just working on different sides. Hope to have the epoxy done by end of the month.

 

[Sanjay]

You better get moving.... I am following this thread.

I got to see it in person, and have to say I am impressed. If I ever have to build a wood tank I know who I am calling for advice.

Next time I am in the denver area I want to see it full !!

sanjay.