N/P reducing pellets (solid vodka dosing)

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I was really hoping for a phosphate reduction. Are we sure about the effects or non effects on phosphate. How good is the data?
Nonexistent, almost :) I just posted what the handful of people here and some other forums have reported.

The pellets are certainly working (producing large amount of biomass) so there must be reduction in phosphate together with nitrogen. Why me and some others don't see it in measurements is the question. I wouldn't rule out operator error ;)

I had an interesting case after washing the pellets completely and letting the bacteria back into the tank: in 24 hrs the PO4 dropped from 0.1 to "zero". Unfortunately the concentration went back to 0.1 - 0.2 in a few days.
 
Nonexistent, almost :) I just posted what the handful of people here and some other forums have reported.

The pellets are certainly working (producing large amount of biomass) so there must be reduction in phosphate together with nitrogen. Why me and some others don't see it in measurements is the question. I wouldn't rule out operator error ;)

I had an interesting case after washing the pellets completely and letting the bacteria back into the tank: in 24 hrs the PO4 dropped from 0.1 to "zero". Unfortunately the concentration went back to 0.1 - 0.2 in a few days.

What are you using to test for phosphates? I hope not a regular test kit.
 
What are you using to test for phosphates? I hope not a regular test kit.
I'm not sure what you mean by "regular test kit"? Testing for reactive phosphate in seawater is pretty standard method and all kits I've used have been basically the same.

Anyway, I currently use Salifert, Merck and Gilbers kits.
 
Phosphates can leach out of rocks so an immediate reduction may not be seen. I travel and so consistent vodka dosing doesn't work for me so the biopellets are my option to setting up an automatic dosing which may end up being cheaper than the biopellet option.

There needs to be a better presentation of what we can really expect out of these. Is it exactly like carbon dosing? Probably not, but a better understanding of whats going on would be nice. I've got the pellets coming. I'll let you know how the phosphates react. My nitrates are pretty low at less than 5 but not 0.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by "regular test kit"? Testing for reactive phosphate in seawater is pretty standard method and all kits I've used have been basically the same.

Anyway, I currently use Salifert, Merck and Gilbers kits.

I tried all the test kits and never seemed to get an accurate reading. They always read zero. When I got a Hannah meter, I got a more accurate reading.
 
I may get a hannah meter. The phosphate tests are not accurate at low levels. After looking at what I've spent this month, I may need to defer.

Maybe I'll ask for one for Christmas.
 
For anybody with questions regarding phosphates.
When heavy feeding is required, it is recommended to combine the pellets with standard phosphate adsorbents. The reason for this is that most aquarium feeds contain higher levels of phosphate than is consumed by bacteria, fish and invertebrates, when compared to nitrogen.So it does remove phoshates,but if you put more phosphates in than nitrates then you are out of balance.


Kevin
 
Yes. I think so.
http://www.google.es/search?hl=es&s...rate+pellets&meta=&cts=1257247715093&aq=f&oq=


I remember some old denitrators you can work with biopellets or with vodka...
Cool info :cool:.
I asked Jptenklooster about the composition , but he told me that it`s his secret (cook`s secret):fun2:.

-I`m happy about the pellets as my test kits show me every time zero as result :).
Still i have to clean the glass of display every two days:rolleyes:
Gha is almost gone , but cyano will be there somewhat longer , after GHA is gone i think.
Water clarity is very good , corals are doing fine and zoas especialy ,they grow almost faster then my macro`s do in my fuge:eek1:.

will try to take some proper pic`s of them in the near future , now bussy re-decorating living room:).

greetingzz tntneon :)
 
This is correct. In case of tatu, he is using reefpearls for feeding his filterfeeders and unfortunately, the current form of reefpearls has to much phosphate, which is fully out of ratio with the nitrates in it. We are currently trying to develope new reefpearls with 100x lower phosphate levels and initial tests are looking good.

The pellets will use phosphates, but, as stated by Kevin (see below), in most foods there is to much phosphate present and phosphatekillers should be combined with the pellets. However, it will take longer before you have to replace or regenerate your killer (regeneration can be done with 1M NaOH solution, good tip to save some money:D).

I would also like to advise for the heavy feeders to use more pellets than indicated on the label. You can't overdose the pellets and when you are using to much, it will just take longer before you have to add new ones.

In my 350 liter tank I'm using 2 liter of pellets while feeding 12 times a day. The difficulty with saying how much to use lies within the fact that every tank is different and using these kind of filters is not a linear thing (2L for 500 liter does not mean you have to use 4 liters for 1000L tanks).

I'll try to keep answering questions on this forum about the pellets ones a week when possible and we are currently being contacted by many different shops that will start selling the pellets globally very soon.

Kind regards,

Jean Paul

For anybody with questions regarding phosphates.
When heavy feeding is required, it is recommended to combine the pellets with standard phosphate adsorbents. The reason for this is that most aquarium feeds contain higher levels of phosphate than is consumed by bacteria, fish and invertebrates, when compared to nitrogen.So it does remove phoshates,but if you put more phosphates in than nitrates then you are out of balance.


Kevin
 
Perhaps it is not PHB, but it is like PHB or another biodegradable biopolymer ... :hammer:
 
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Are the Biopellets lighter than most granular activated carbon used in this hobby? I'm just trying to compare with GAC because I know how low the flow rate is that will blow it out of my reactor.
 
at 99 a liter plus shipping, I maybe could have saved a couple bucks, not much.

We really need to get some data on the performance of these pellets


I agree that at a price that is orders of magnitude more expensive than dosing vinegar or vodka or sugar, one would really want to see clear evidence of a real advantage before recommending it.
 
at 99 a liter plus shipping, I maybe could have saved a couple bucks, not much.

We really need to get some data on the performance of these pellets


I agree that at a price that is orders of magnitude more expensive than dosing vinegar or vodka or sugar, one would really want to see clear evidence of a real advantage before recommending it.

That's been my thought on this. I was very interested when I first saw this thinking vodka dosing without the daily dosing but at these prices I am better off buying a dosing pump and have it dose my vodka for me daily. JMO
 
they should be available in shops for 70-90 dollars (no tax, no shipping). In europe for 50 euro's (no tax or shipping).

In my hands it is working much better than ethanol dosing, which has its obvious limitations (growth of bacteria on corals, feeding red bacteria, CO2 production of bacteria everywhere which lowers pH, when placing the exit tube of the pellet filter in front of the skimmer this will be severely reduced etc...), but yes it is a choice...:fish1:
 
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