N/P reducing pellets (solid vodka dosing)

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I've never dosed MB7...and my pellets haven't done anything yet for months. They are inactive. Hopefully I'll be getting some MB7 soon and I can "test" it to see if it seeds my pellets with anything. Most successful pellets that I have heard of have seeded their tanks with "something" at "sometime" in the tanks history. I never have...so we'll see.
 
I've never dosed MB7...and my pellets haven't done anything yet for months. They are inactive. Hopefully I'll be getting some MB7 soon and I can "test" it to see if it seeds my pellets with anything. Most successful pellets that I have heard of have seeded their tanks with "something" at "sometime" in the tanks history. I never have...so we'll see.

Shipped out first class mail. You should be getting it any day.

DJ
 
So what do you think I should do? Put gfo on the tank? Take the pellets off?

These are pictures of an advanced dinoflagellate

infestation I found via google. They will start off looking somewhat like diatom dusting then grow into the slimy strings as shown in the pictures. They can sometimes look green as well. Alot of times it can present simultaneous with cyano bacteria which is alot of times pinkish/red.

If they get introduced into the tank while running an active pellet reactor they can be very difficult to eradicate as they seem to feed off the carbon in the effluent, and need very little in the way of nitrate or phosphate to flourish.
 
Hi All,

I just thought I should post a follow-up of my experience. I had posted a few months ago stating that the pellets were not working and that I was thinking of giving up on the pellets.

I'm happy to report that after months of frustration, my nitrates are undetectable and my phosphate level is 0.00 as per hanna phosphate checker. There is no visible hair algae or cyanobacteria. My corals are looking better each day and they seem to be utilizing Ca at twice the rate they used to before (I have had to double my dosing to keep up).

I don't know why it took so long for me to start seeing results but the pellets finally came through... I initially started with the pellets in a phosban 550 reactor which did not work great (kept clogging) so I switched to a modified vertex zeovit reactor about 10 weeks ago. I'm not sure that this is the reason.

Overall, I am very happy with this product!

cheers
 
Hey Montrealreef have you noticed that you dont have to clean your glass as much. I have been using vertex pellets a little over a month and only have to scrap glass about 1 time every 7-10 days depending. I have 3 400watt halides over my 150 before the pellets i had to scrap every 2 days. I ran gfo before these pellets and the switch was the best choice i could have made.
 
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Hi mal1099,

I have to clean my glass every 5 days or so. My tank gets a lot of sunlight. It is in my living room which has floor to ceiling windows facing south.I used to have to clean it every day and sometimes twice a day.

I used to dose vodka before I started using the pellets and i needed high doses to get my nutrient level down which seemed to fuel cyanobacteria.

I agree with you that these pellets are an extremely useful product! I'm so happy I did not give up on them.
 
I understand that the pellets physically disolve in the reactor. How long do they tend to last? A may be completly wrong. I'm trying to determine a round number to the annual costs. Many thanks..
 
as I understand it, the pellets by themselves do not disolve in the water...not enough to be classified as water soluable. BUT instead they get smaller over time from the bacteria eating them, hence the concept of being "solid vodka doseing". My pellets haven't changed size in three months of tumbleing in a reactor. So I would attest to them not disolving on their own...they require the bacteria to consume them.

...and since they get smaller through consumption, it stands to reason that they "dissolve" at different rates depending on how much they need to consume to battle the levels of N and P in different tanks. But most have said that they don't need replacing for at least 6 months and as much as 12 or more.
 
Anyone who is using a filter sock notice that it gets clogged much faster? i have to replace mine every two days now and i use to do that every 4-5 days.
maybe i have to much pellets?
 
So what do you think I should do? Put gfo on the tank? Take the pellets off?

Before you do anything you want to be sure that they are dinos in the tank. If they start to form snotty strings and/or you start getting bubbles in them then it is likley dinos and you could be in for a difficult fight. Hard to say what action you should take as conditions are going to be different from case to case.. Best I can do is detail for you my case and you can make a determination if there are any similarities.

There are many ways to address these, most use high PH, higher if possible and light deprivation cycles. You want to dose beneficial bacteria to help out compete for any food source the dinos might be scavaging. In my experience though the dinos can bounce right back so long as the pellet reactor is still running. They seem to feed either directly on pellet material emiited from the reactor or bacteria that is sloughed off the pellets and ejected out of the reactor.

In my tank I had only a few acro frags, and a high fish load. The reactor kept up with my heavy fish feeding and I could never measure any PO4 or NO3 leading up to and after the arrival of the dinos. Even during my initial lights off period when the dinos all died off I could not measure NO3 or PO4. Even though my skimmer was well up to the the task and load, I think my problem was due to a lack of bio-diversity (corals and other filter type feeders) combined with a heavily active pellet reactor... more a little later.

In my experience these reactors are very efficient at what they do but they do not "slime" up. At least not to the point where you see bacterial strands bouncing around inside and/or ejecting from the reactor. You may get a few at the bottom inlet, but mostly the bacteria clings to the pellets and you can't discern them with the naked eye. What you can see though is all the material ejected from the reactor if you either direct the effluent into a clear glass of water or actually remove some pellets and rinse them in a clear glass of RO/DI water.

My point is that there is alot of material ejected from these reactors when they are active. In the absence of any real biological competition for the ejected material, a scavanger like dinoflagellites that does well in low phosphate, low nitrate, high carbon enviroments seems to flourish.

I eventually removed my pellet reactor during my second attempt to weaken the dinos with a 7 day lights out period. This made a tangible difference, but they still grew back in a few areas, albeit much slower and in fewer numbers. I theorise that they are still feeding on whatever leftover material was ejected from the reactor before I removed it.

My last ditch effort before I tear down the tank and sterilize it is to use Ultra AlgaeX by Fauna Marine. Says right on the bottle it is formualted to combat dinoflagellates. This is a very aggressive treatment though and anyone should do thier homework before taking this route. It can stress/kill other sensative corals and fish if you are not careful with the dosage. All my acro frags were previoously killed by dinos, and all my fish have been moved to quarantine so I can afford to be a little aggressive with this stuff. I am on my fourth dose of AlgaeX without having to turn out the lights and I contiune to feed the tank... it is working, albeit slowly. I can't say if it wil ultimatly work or not just yet though.

Too sum it all up... I think where I went wrong with my tank was having too many fish and not enough corals in combination with the pellet reactor. If I were to do it differently today I would build up filter feeding bio diveristy while slowly ramping up the fish load.
 
I have been following along and am looking to run BPs. I currently run GFO (and carbon) in a TLF 550 but my understanding is that this reactor is not sufficient for the BP load of a 90g tank. I now need a reactor and pump. Can anyone recommend a reactor and pump combination on a 90g tank? I have been told to estimate 100gph per 100ml of BP, can anyone substantiate this estimate?
 
The bacteria ejected from the bio pellet reactor clog up the sock to fast. Once in the sock (I am thinking) it will start to break down. That just returns P,N and C back to the tank. If it is still in circulation hopefully it will get eaten or get skimmed out.
 
i gues you right, but its so unfortunate since i like they way filter sock polish the water and keep it clean.. i will try to remove and see if my REDOX level goes up..
 
I use 200 micron filter socks. I've had the replace them daily instead of every 3-4 days as before. I like the way it polishes the water and will continue to use them.
 
I haven't gotten these yet so I am mostly repeating what i have read. If you are willing to clean the sock then it should not be a problem. However, I have read numerous people say that the tank was clearer after they started the pellets. SO if you are willing to do it - an experiment might be to take the sock out for a week and see if you can tell the difference.
 
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