Narrowed down the list, feedback to help pick a tang?

rocknut

Rocky
I posted something similar as part of my build thread, but would love to get some feedback on this forum as well.
I have had my new 150 gallon (5' x 2' x 2') running for about two weeks, and so far so good, so I'm starting to begin the process of finalizing my plans for a stocking list. Just to be clear: I AM NOT ADDING ANYTHING TO THE TANK AT THIS POINT. :) As I explained in my build thread, I have always talked myself out of a lot of the fish I would like to try for one reason or another (too big, would jump out, too aggressive, too delicate, etc), so I am really trying to carefully plan this tank out, and do things the right way. That being said, I would like to choose one Tang as my sort of "key" fish, and build around that. I had a really nice Powder Blue Tang a few years back, and really loved it, so I know that I would like to add another Acanthurus Tang to this tank. While I would love a Naso (I know this isn't an Acanthurus), or Clown Tang, I have tried to be realistic with my choices, and come up with the following:

Whitecheek Tang (Acanthurus Nigricans) - this seems like an ideal fish for my tank. Doesn't get huge and is beautiful. I've heard they can be a bit aggressive, but I'm not looking to add a whole bunch of tangs, so think I should be alright.

Lieutenant Tang (Acanthurus Tennenti) - I really love how these fish look. Only problem is that they might get a bit too large for my tank?

Orangeshoulder Tang (Acanthurus Olivaceous) - Again, great looking fish, but possibly too large?

Lavender Tang (Acanthurus Nigrofuscus) - This might be the ideal candidate, size wise. Not quite a flashy as the others, but I think they are still great looking fish. Only real problem might be finding one to buy.

My plan is to QT for about a month, using the Tank Transfer method for the first two weeks, and then treating with Prazipro for several more before adding the fish to the display tank. So I figure the tank will have been up and running for at least two months before any fish are introduced.

In addition to whichever Tang I end up going with, I would like to choose either 5 or 7 Lyretail Anthias, as well as some sort of Wrasse. I have been reading up on the Hoeven's Wrasse, and think that would be a good choice, although Live Aquaria lists them as not reef safe?

The tank will end up being primarily SPS, although I hate to box myself in with that, so let's say "high flow" corals. :)

Appreciate any feedback and suggestions!
Thanks
 
I would go with the white cheek. The orange shoulder will get too big for your tank. I would caution you to properly QT and proactively treat for ich and with prazipro before adding any fish to your DT. The white cheek is the most ich prone out of the tangs you mentioned
 
+1 on the white cheek, though they can be delicate in the same regard that powder blues and browns are. Definitely treat the fish during quarantine.

As far as the wrasse goes, I personally love the whole genus that Hoeven's belongs to (Halichoeres). They are pretty reef safe... but I think the "with caution" lies with hermits, small shrimp, and snails. I have owned a couple of these types of wrasses and IME they have been good citizens. My personal favorite is the Radiant, you should look into it. Make sure you have a good sand bed if you plan to keep this type of wrasse, as they bury themselves at night to sleep.
 
+1 on the white cheek, though they can be delicate in the same regard that powder blues and browns are. Definitely treat the fish during quarantine.

As far as the wrasse goes, I personally love the whole genus that Hoeven's belongs to (Halichoeres). They are pretty reef safe... but I think the "with caution" lies with hermits, small shrimp, and snails. I have owned a couple of these types of wrasses and IME they have been good citizens. My personal favorite is the Radiant, you should look into it. Make sure you have a good sand bed if you plan to keep this type of wrasse, as they bury themselves at night to sleep.

I really like the suggestion of the Radiant Wrasse, they do look great. Also, yes I have about a 3-4 inch layer of sand in tank, so that shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for the feedback!
 
I would go with the white cheek. The orange shoulder will get too big for your tank. I would caution you to properly QT and proactively treat for ich and with prazipro before adding any fish to your DT. The white cheek is the most ich prone out of the tangs you mentioned

Yes, a QT will definitely be used. I have been told, and have read that because the White Cheek can be aggressive, that it might be best to add it last, but because it is probably also the most delicate fish I would add, I was thinking I would add it first? Probably save the Wrasse for last, to give the pod population the most time to build up?
Thanks for the suggestion on the White Cheek, I think I am starting to lean in that direction. Sounds like I can definitely rule out the Orange shoulder because of size, anyway.
 
If a wrasse and anthias are the only other fish that will be going in the tank you shouldn't have to worry about the white cheek being aggressive toward them
 
Reefer in my local club has had a Lieutenant Tang for over 3 years in a 5'x2'x20" tank, she might be getting big but still has some time before he has to think about moving her. Lieutenant and Orange shoulder are my two favorite tangs, unfortunately my 60g falls short of being a good home for either.
 
Reefer in my local club has had a Lieutenant Tang for over 3 years in a 5'x2'x20" tank, she might be getting big but still has some time before he has to think about moving her. Lieutenant and Orange shoulder are my two favorite tangs, unfortunately my 60g falls short of being a good home for either.

Thanks for the feedback on this. I'm not 100% sure why, but I do really like the Lieutenant Tang a lot. I know that lots of other Tangs have the flashier colors, etc, but there is just something about them.
 
I would go with the white cheek. The orange shoulder will get too big for your tank. I would caution you to properly QT and proactively treat for ich and with prazipro before adding any fish to your DT. The white cheek is the most ich prone out of the tangs you mentioned

great advice and I would further recommend to double the time spent in qt to 8 weeks...
 
Thanks for the feedback on this. I'm not 100% sure why, but I do really like the Lieutenant Tang a lot. I know that lots of other Tangs have the flashier colors, etc, but there is just something about them.

Agreed! I think the Lieutenant would be too big for the tank though. Mine is 8" and just a year ago he was 5." I would stick with the white cheek decision :)

 
I would go with the white cheek. The orange shoulder will get too big for your tank. I would caution you to properly QT and proactively treat for ich and with prazipro before adding any fish to your DT. The white cheek is the most ich prone out of the tangs you mentioned

I have been reading allot about QT procedures lately, and honestly, I have read so many things, i'm a little confused. :rollface: I am planning on using a 20 gallon long, with a hang in filter, some pvc pieces for hiding, etc. My main question is this: would I treat with Cupramine first, then later treat with Prazipro?
 
That's up to you. Cupramine and prazipro are some of the few medications that can be used in conjunction, but I don't do that unless it is an emergency. It also depends a bit on the fish in question. If I have a white cheek and suspect ich, I'm going to run him through cupramine first. If it's an angel that seems to have flukes, prazipro first. Your judgement call IMO.
 
just bear in mind that cupramine is powerful stuff, ramp up the dosage slowly- do not use any Prime or similar product when using it...
prazi may cause a loss of appetite...
first I would let her get comfy in the small 20 gal...after a week or 2 of observing make the cupra or prazi call....
 
Rea17 & humaguy - thanks for taking the time to give out the advice, it is very appreciated. I guess I have read so much about preventative treatment, and being proactive, I was thinking it was necessary to treat for ich, etc even if it isn't seem in QT, because that is the only way to be sure it never gets into the display? I know that it seems like such a cliché to say that I just want to "do it right the first time", but I have really tried to adopt the philosophy of learning from my mistakes, and use that knowledge to find a better way of doing things going forward with my new build. I would imagine that the "tank transfer" method during the first few weeks of QT would probably be the best way to be sure there was no ich without having to use Cupramine, but I'm not sure how to sell the wife on TWO additional little tanks in addition to the huge monstrosity that I just built in the living room. Maybe that is the best way to go however? Two weeks with Tank Transfer, then maybe a treatment with Prazipro after?
Again, thanks for taking to time to read this and offer your insight!
 
I was always under the impression that you should only treat for a disease if you know the fish has it, not proactively just for the sake of it. I have never treated with anything in my QT tank unless the fish shows signs of a disease and it has worked well so far. I mainly got this from my reasearch and from Bob Fenner and Mark Callahan on their QT procedure recommendations. As far as QT length, I don't see why you would need to go past 30 days (unless of course it had a disease and you treated for it, then 30 days past the last sign of disease). Ich or velvet will definitely show in that period if it is there, based on their life cycle. Humaguy has been around the block and I have read and liked a lot of what he has to say in other threads so I would definitely consider his advice though.
 
I was always under the impression that you should only treat for a disease if you know the fish has it, not proactively just for the sake of it. I have never treated with anything in my QT tank unless the fish shows signs of a disease and it has worked well so far.

This really depends on the fish in question. IMO/IME, white cheek tangs are SO ich susceptible that it is completely reasonable to treat proactively. By the time they get to the hobbyist, it is more than likely they picked it up along the way (assuming they didn't come out of the ocean with it). Method of treatment is a constant debate, there are pros and cons to everything. Tank transfer depends on the observational skills of the hobbyist and there tends to be more work involved and room for error. Hyposalinity is great if you are able to correctly diagnose, as hypo only works on ich. It can also be a challenging treatment, and any little slip up in salinity can reset your 4 week clock. Copper... is good, bad, and ugly. There is no getting around that it is a poison. Cupramine is the safest and best copper medication out there, and it will kill off ich, velvet, and whatever else. Your treatment method should completely depend on what YOU feel comfortable with, and of course on the fish. Just because you don't see white spots doesn't mean the fish isn't carrying ich. The parasite hosts in the gills of the fish and can be much harder to detect. I have heard several stories of ich and even velvet slipping through 6-8 weeks of "observational" quarantine and wiping out displays. IMHO the opportunity to treat proactively should not be taken for granted.

Proactively deworming with PraziPro isn't as big of a deal, as it tends to be less stressful on the animals than copper. Humaguy is absolutely right that it is an appetite suppressant, so I generally won't use it until I've had the fish for a week or two and I'm satisfied with how it's eating.
 
I'm going to be difference and suggest a lavendar tang. I hope to have one someday when I have a decent sized display tank.
 
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