Nate's 300g Build

Nate32185

New member
So, this is my official Reef Central Debut. My wife and I have been in the hobby for for 8 years now. We have gone through many tanks just as most of you probably have too. We built our dream home in 2011 and have always had plans to put a In-wall tank in our finished basement. Well this is the year we pull the trigger.

The Tank: 300g (96"w x 30"d x 24"h)
After countless hours of researching tank builders and comparing prices we decided to try a rather new company called Custom Aquariums out of Wisconsin. They offer free delivery! The tank was ordered February 6th with an estimated build and delivery window of 8-12 weeks. It was ordered with 1/2" glass on all four sides and 3/4" on the bottom. The front and left panel will be low Iron (Starphire) glass. While talking with Custom Aquariums about reef readiness, their patened H2Overflows came up. Supposedly each overflow is capable of draining 1200GPH, so we ordered three and they will be installed by them.

So starts the anxious waiting.:uhoh3:
But while we wait, I get to order all the fun stuff. Protien skimmer, Powerheads, UV sterilizer, etc.

As soon as I get a chance I will post pictures of the DIY stand and any other progress.
 
Here is my best attempt at drawing out the plumbing. Was wondering if it would be better to run the return lines up one line and split them at the top rather than two separate lines?
 
Try to make the last run of your returns, the sections from wherever you T off, the same length to get equal pressure on both.

Dave.M
 
You mean center the manifold under the tank? So the two lines feeding the tank are the same length? Couldn't I match the pressure by adjusting the ball valves?
 
You could but you would be restricting overall flow from the pump. My setup is identical as far as the equipment used. (Reeflo Dart Gold, 300G with a 65 sump, ect) Here is what I did..
s1sWWV.jpg


'Rather then use ball valves at the returns I used a Y on each return and now have four outlets to help control flow.

I just finished filling it day before yesterday and the center brace popped off one side so I will be draining and repairing it today.:sad2:
 
Ok, Josh. So in the picture, you have what looks like a feed line of 1" or 1 1/2" in flexible pvc feeding a " T " that splits into two 3/4" lines? So your saying you have two of these making (4) 3/4" return lines? Do you have some more pics of the plumbing? Are you running a manifold? I like the idea of ball valves on the returns. I was planning on running them wide open and only closing them for maintenance.

Sorry to hear about your center brace. That sucks. My tank is going to be built with marine grade aluminum bracing all around so hopefully won't have to worry about this.
 
The flexible PVC you see is coming from the pump return side is 1 1/2" coming into the T with 1 1/2" to 1" reducers in either side of the T then 1" going all the way to the returns. at the returns I have Y LOC line that splits it two two returns.
E93Mhv.jpg

I have valves to control the flow to the returns but I pulled them off.


2oYu36.jpg

The Y splits the flow again and the valve is not really needed. The other return is set up identical.

Sorry for the mess I'm in the process of draining to fix the brace!
 
Ok, I see. So I should eliminate one line on my manifold and run one single feed to the center of the where it will " t " off to 2 return lines. Probably not going to split it into 4, because I will be powering the skimmer, UV, media reactor, and possibly a fuge or frank tank with the same pump. By the time you factor in the 6ft of head I am probably looking at 1500-2000 gph cycling through the tank. Which is a perfect turn around for me. 6x turn around is 1800. If I split that into 4 it's 375-500 gph per nozzle head. Which doesn't sound like much. I will be running 4 Vortech mp40's for flow.
 
Sounds like a good plan! I didn't use a manifold I have smaller pumps controlling the reactors and skimmer controlled by the apex.

But you could use a cross(capping one side) in place of where my T is to feed your manifold with a ball valve to the entire manifold thus equalizing flow to the returns. But there are many ways to do it I was just giving you the way I did it! Hope that helps!

V/R
-Josh
 
That looks better. Not personally a big fan of the "one pump" method. What happens to all those systems when the pump fails or needs to be taken down for maintenance? But lots of people do it this way and seem to get by.

Dave.M
 
Dave, I agree that running one pump is risky but the cost of running two or more pumps to get the same gph would be much higher. I was originally going to to run two pan world pumps but the watts being used would double to 300. The reeflo dart uses 170w at peak. I have a pan world 200ps that is capable of 1750 gph that I'll hold onto as a spare for when the reeflo seal goes, which is pretty common I hear, or when the pump needs to be replaced. It will do for tank circulation but the skimmer, UV, and reactors will be down.
 
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Which is why I prefer the skimmer to have its own pump and the reactors to be on another pump. Those would be smaller than your return pump, of course.

Dave.M
 
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