Need design advise

[Masterderrull]

So here are two pictures of my tank and the fuge bench that is in my basement directly under my tank. From the sump to the top of the tank is about 12'. I need advice on what pump to get as well as if I should have check valves (how many) and the like. I have a CPR overflow box with a hole in it for 1" pipe. I want to use a SCWD as my wave maker. It's a 55 gallon mixed reef tank with 4 t-5's over it. I know the legs for the light are a little ghetto right now, but I'm waiting until I get everything situated before I build a holder for the lights. I was looking at the "4MDQX" on the following link, but wasn't sure if that would be enough flow once you going though a SCWD and any possible check valves. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4585+4614&pcatid=4614
I appreciate any input that would help. As well as were I can get good (semi) leak free fittings that attach to areas such as the overflow box hole, and any hole I might drill in the side of my 30gal. sump. You know something that threads into each other, but will also have rubber or o-rings on either side to make a good seal. Thanks everybody.

 

[miatawnt2b]

I don't have an answer to your pump question, but I have a brand new little giant pump that may work for you. It's a 220v pump that I bought for my homebrewing, so it's actually a bit beefier than the SC series. I never used it since I didn't run 220V to my brew rig. I'll look up the model number this weekend and get you the specs.

-J

 

[ironwill723]

I use a Mag 18 pump from my sump in the basement to my tank on the first floor. I use a valve to control output to tank. I have about a 14' run and I still have to turn it down to about 75% output for correct flow rate.

 

[Masterderrull]

Thanks guys for the quick responses.

Ironwill: LET'S GO PENS, I hope thats malkin I see in the pic. Anyway, will restricting the output of the pump by way of a valve put strain on the pump and cause it to fail sooner than would be expected? Or is it not that big of a deal?

 

[ironwill723]

Malkin indeed. My gf's favorite player.:rolleye1: As far as restricting the output, you should be fine. In the Mag 18 instruction manual it actually advises to use a valve to restrict the output flow if desired if I recall correctly. It does advise not to restrict input flow however.

 

[Masterderrull]

I got my jersey signed by him! How cool is that

 

[bnmir]

the scwd is going to restrict your flow a fair amount, even the 1" version. The oceans motions are nice, but a lot pricier.

 

[acer]

Yep I second the Sqwd flow reduction - I have used them for years - only complaint is the flow restriction. Other than that mine have worked well - especially for the price.

 

[cloakerpoked]

Personally I don't think that SCWD or any kind of alternating current is the only way to go. Depending on the tank, you may be better off with splitting the flow 3 ways or something and getting it into the tank at several different points. Since you already have it though...it will do. As for fittings, actual bulkheads are always best. I've used bushings and male/female threaded adapters with o-rings and silicon with success also.

 

[Masterderrull]

I don't have the SCWD yet. Do you really think it's better not to have one? i thought that sone SPS's don't extend fully without an alternating current. No?

 

[miatawnt2b]

for the same price as a scwd and the plumbing and the hassle involved, you can buy a used SEIO controller and use it on SEIO's or Korilla pumps.

-J

 

[cloakerpoked]

If you have water coming from enough different points in the tank, the flow is turbulent and changes anyway. I run about 2200-2500 gph on my returns through 5 nozzles and a spraybar. I also have 2 Koralias and 1 Aquaclear (in the rockwork). I leave all this on all the time, but I get full polyp extension. The thing you need to be worried about is blasting them. If you have 1000gph coming all from one point, even in an alternating fashion, you could blast the tissue right off the colony. Needless to say, this upsets your SPS. This is just my experience with my tank. Others no doubt have different stories...Flow is important to SPS, there is no doubt about that, but sometimes I think we overcomplicate things a bit. If it were my tank (and it's not) I'd just go the Koralia route mentioned above...or not even worry about the controller, but that's just me.

 

[Starfiretank]

Powerheads??

Powerheads??

Ok I know about the magnificent vor-tec's and of course the world famous tunze controllable powerheads. Can anyone reccomend a way less expensive way to control koralia 3 powerheds? (2 of them) I heard with a red sea wavemaster you get a anoying chatter from the powerheads. Is this so? Can anyone give me a little info?

 

[Starfiretank]

That was supposed to be an actual post oops, must be time for bed.

 

[miatawnt2b]

you can find SEIO controllers in the for sale section every so often. Usually $90. I really like mine. You can run Korilla's on them too. They ramp from 50% to 100% over a set time you program.
-J

 

[miatawnt2b]

I just pulled the little giant pump I have. It's a 220v 3-MD-HC, part number 581613. It's never been used. It's yours for $100.

-J

 

[Masterderrull]

The spec sheet on that pump says it's 230v, what does that mean? Is that a european outlet measurement?

I have another question for everybody, does horizonal plumbing count towards your head hieght? The reason I'm asking this is because if I deside to move my tank to the other side of my dinning room, but my sump stayed in the same spot, I'd still really only have 12' of vertical hieght, but the length of pipe would increase by about another 12'. Hopefully I'm making sence to everybody.

 

[cloakerpoked]

Koralia makes powerheads that are supposed to be controllable, and some that are not. Regular Koralia's aren't meant to be turned off and on and off and on. I'm not saying it might not work for you, I honestly have no clue, other than that some people have tried it and it doesn't work for them (i.e. chattering)

I know that Tunze and Vortec's are supposedly the best, and from what I've seen of them, they definitely are. But I'm on a limited budget also, and why I mentioned to you the fact that I don't really think that its necessary. You could always get 2 controllable Koralia's and if you're not getting the results you want, add the controller later.

 

[ironwill723]

My plumbing goes 5' drop from DT- 14' horizontal run- 6' drop to sump on floor in basement. My return plumbing runs parallel to this as well. I have way too many elbows but it works for my setup.

 

[Masterderrull]

Thanks guys, what do think as far as valves and unions? and any other suggested plumbing options. Should I build something to prepair for future additions?