Need DIY palns for 240 Gallon Tank Stand
- Thread starter DrHank
- Start date
DrHank
New member
Check this out. DIY plans are on the left.
http://www.garf.org/
I'd still be interested in seeing your drawings. My primary concern was structural strength since we will have close to a ton of weight in a 2' X8' area. This is my first tank larger than 110 gallons so I'm proceeding slowly.
http://www.garf.org/
I'd still be interested in seeing your drawings. My primary concern was structural strength since we will have close to a ton of weight in a 2' X8' area. This is my first tank larger than 110 gallons so I'm proceeding slowly.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Before building the stand, what is the floor like? A wood frame floor will most likely need reinforcement to carry that kind of load. If thats the case, then designing the stand so it transfers the loads right into the floor supports is the way to go. Also, what will be under the stand? A sump? CL Pump(s)? Access to this stuff should be factored in before a design is chosen.
Also, check out some of the other threads in this forum and the DIY section. There are a ton of stand designs out there.
Happy hunting.
Also, check out some of the other threads in this forum and the DIY section. There are a ton of stand designs out there.
Happy hunting.
DrHank
New member
I appreciate your input. Fortunately my home is built on a slab so weight bearing (other than the stand) shouldn't be a factor. You also ask an important factor for consideration regarding the sump (a good bit more weight) and the closed loop (you need to be able to get behind the tank as well as under it).
I've been spending lots of time searching RC for stand design and fortunately, I'm in no hurry. I'd prefer to do it as close to perfect as possible the first time. I think that I'm talking about at or slightly over 1 ton of load over a 2' X 8' area. My build and initial set up will be on the slab in the Lanai (about 15' from the tanks final location in the den. If something is going to go wrong I'd like it to be outside the main living area.
I've been spending lots of time searching RC for stand design and fortunately, I'm in no hurry. I'd prefer to do it as close to perfect as possible the first time. I think that I'm talking about at or slightly over 1 ton of load over a 2' X 8' area. My build and initial set up will be on the slab in the Lanai (about 15' from the tanks final location in the den. If something is going to go wrong I'd like it to be outside the main living area.
faded1004
New member
i saw the garf design... i want to actually go with 3"x3" wood beams instead of the 2"x4"... garf says i need 10 beams for the 2x4's, but i am thinkin i can lower it with 3x3 beams...
so far what i have gotten:
96" x 24.5" x 25.5" glass tank
31" x 18" x 24" acrylic sump
dart pump
1" retun with dual 1" penductor return on 1" locline
1.5" return on each rear sides
2 x seio 1500 for current ramdomization
i still have to work on/ think about:
refugium??? = 60 gallon glass? shoudl still fit inside the stand
wood 3x3 beam stand at about.... 36" height?
hood? to block my lights while i stare at the fish?
open top or closed top? cause i like gobies, i know they like to jump out...
i will post more ideas when i find them... will think about it all day today... i got a day off again... hahahahah...
so far what i have gotten:
96" x 24.5" x 25.5" glass tank
31" x 18" x 24" acrylic sump
dart pump
1" retun with dual 1" penductor return on 1" locline
1.5" return on each rear sides
2 x seio 1500 for current ramdomization
i still have to work on/ think about:
refugium??? = 60 gallon glass? shoudl still fit inside the stand
wood 3x3 beam stand at about.... 36" height?
hood? to block my lights while i stare at the fish?
open top or closed top? cause i like gobies, i know they like to jump out...
i will post more ideas when i find them... will think about it all day today... i got a day off again... hahahahah...
DrHank
New member
garf design is functional but not my favorite. I am definitely going with 36" tall stand. When you double up 2x4s what you wind up with is a 3"x3" beam. I'm also thinking of a 2' tall front opening hood. I will probably use open top to allow for heat dissipation. If I were into jumpers I'd use screen mesh over the open area.
GARFVolunteer
Premium Member
This is one of the calculators I made a year or so ago. It has the plans for building a two peice stand. There is the stand frame and a facade to cover it. I made mine like it and love the access I have to the sump area.
http://www.idahoreefs.org/Tank/BuildLargeStand_2.asp
Here you can see the stand frame for my 150 gallon tank. I used MDF for the frame and painted it with epoxy paint:
Thanks,
Scott
http://www.idahoreefs.org/Tank/BuildLargeStand_2.asp
Here you can see the stand frame for my 150 gallon tank. I used MDF for the frame and painted it with epoxy paint:
Thanks,
Scott
faded1004
New member
i have my current tank and have no problems with heat, i just hate the lid cause i find that i have to put my hand in the tank for various resaons (upright frags, move rocks, drop something) so i hate taking the tops off... i think that is the only reason...
i really like that white stand! wow... so... modern! hahahaha... i am going to get a quote for new floors at the new house i got on tuesday... i think that will determine my stand color/material... hehehehe... right now it is all carpet... and i wanna go wood floors...
i really like that white stand! wow... so... modern! hahahaha... i am going to get a quote for new floors at the new house i got on tuesday... i think that will determine my stand color/material... hehehehe... right now it is all carpet... and i wanna go wood floors...
DrHank
New member
Thanks GARFVolunteer that's exactly what I was looking for. Finally some plans that incorporate load bearing capability with function.
faded, I'm thinking of a tall canopy with either doors or a fold up front. On a tank this size, no one that I know takes the top off to rearrange frags or make changes in the tank. They simply open doors or fold up or down panels.
faded, I'm thinking of a tall canopy with either doors or a fold up front. On a tank this size, no one that I know takes the top off to rearrange frags or make changes in the tank. They simply open doors or fold up or down panels.
faded1004
New member
ohh, i made an acrylic cover... to make sure no jumpers make it. for me, i think i can wait on the canopy, i guess my lighting issues aren't figured... i am thinking about making a reef on one side(lighted by my current dual MH canopy), and the other will be a large swiming area (lighted by t5's)... i guess i wouldnt' have a problem with a canopy...
i guess this idea just came through for now, cause i wanted to focus on other things, pump circulation, stand? anwyays, here is a picture of my current hood.... (excuse my heater and seios out of place... i upgraded them to prepare for the 250g tank)...
i like it alot, and doesn't give me heating issues... it is 48" so it will light half the new tank well... and the rest shoudl be okay with a set of t5's i already have... i am actually thinking about going back to the same company and getting another 48" hood to make the rest of the 8 foot length?
i think right now, i am going crazy over plumbing... tryign to get the keys to the new place soon, escrow should close today? i need to find out if i cam plumb to the garage?
my 2 options i want:
go to garage - stairs between living room and garage... with front door on the edge... so might not fit
go to back yard - is second in line... but that side of the living room is not easy to setup with couches for long relaxing viewing...
as a last resort, and most likely - put all the junk in the stand... hahahahaha... today i am going to plan my sump+fuge... either way, it won't matter if i put it inside of outside...
jason
i guess this idea just came through for now, cause i wanted to focus on other things, pump circulation, stand? anwyays, here is a picture of my current hood.... (excuse my heater and seios out of place... i upgraded them to prepare for the 250g tank)...
i like it alot, and doesn't give me heating issues... it is 48" so it will light half the new tank well... and the rest shoudl be okay with a set of t5's i already have... i am actually thinking about going back to the same company and getting another 48" hood to make the rest of the 8 foot length?
i think right now, i am going crazy over plumbing... tryign to get the keys to the new place soon, escrow should close today? i need to find out if i cam plumb to the garage?
my 2 options i want:
go to garage - stairs between living room and garage... with front door on the edge... so might not fit
go to back yard - is second in line... but that side of the living room is not easy to setup with couches for long relaxing viewing...
as a last resort, and most likely - put all the junk in the stand... hahahahaha... today i am going to plan my sump+fuge... either way, it won't matter if i put it inside of outside...
jason
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RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Ok, DrHank. Have a bunch of laundry to do tonight and some time to kill. What kind of tank glass or acrylic? Where are the overflow drain holes located (back of tank or bottom, location)? Will you need access under the tank for equipment maintenance or will all that be in a tank room? I assume wood but if thats not the case let me know.
I can probably whip something up in a couple hours that should meet your requirements, let me know what exactly you want.
I can probably whip something up in a couple hours that should meet your requirements, let me know what exactly you want.
DrHank
New member
Here goes. Glass tank 96" X 24" X 21 1/2" tall. A single 3" hole on center 10" from the left end for drain. The return will probably be a 1 1/2" PVC line up behind the tank to the top wrapping completely around the inside lip of the tank with 6 outlets for circulation. Pump will be a dart or marlin. Stand will be wood, 36" tall to allow for equipment and sump under. Stand will sit 12" forward from the wall. Canopy will be 18"-24" tall. Side skins will cover the stand, canopy, and space between the tank and wall. Stand and canopy will probably have doors in front and on both ends. I'm looking for a single support on center in front and back in addition to the four corners.
I hope that is specific enough and do appreciate your assistance. I used to maintain air to air missiles for the USAF but that was a long time ago.
I hope that is specific enough and do appreciate your assistance. I used to maintain air to air missiles for the USAF but that was a long time ago.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
So, I will admit it, I already designed a stand for a 240g that matches what you told me almost exactly. The fact that its a glass tank means that only the perimeter really needs support. If your tank maker requires full support, then just place beams front to back across the top and face the top with plywood.
The basis of the tank is two frames and 6 legs. The top frame is constructed from 2X6 joists sandwiching 1/2" plywood to make beams. These will transfer the load of the tank into the legs. The legs are 4X4s and their length will determine the tank height. The bottom frame is 2X4 and 1/2" plywood beams same as the top frame.
Making the beams will involve glueing the joists to the plywood (check other threads for a good glue, I can't think of one off the top of my head) and deck screws. Attach the legs to the frame using nice long decking screws. Pilot drilling these may help getting these in without too much risk of splitting things.
The way I have designed the corners, the boards can be screwed from several directions to make sure everything stays nice and straight. Facing the sides with plywood will be needed to give the stand lateral support. This plywood will also give you a place to mount the doors. A screw every 6 inches or so aroud the perimeter should do the trick.
The 2X4 bracing in the middle serves two purposes; the first is to ensure the long sides don't bow out and provides a convenient place to mount a light. If you decide to face the top, then this can be removed for the front to back joists.
If you have any other questions, let me know.
The basis of the tank is two frames and 6 legs. The top frame is constructed from 2X6 joists sandwiching 1/2" plywood to make beams. These will transfer the load of the tank into the legs. The legs are 4X4s and their length will determine the tank height. The bottom frame is 2X4 and 1/2" plywood beams same as the top frame.
Making the beams will involve glueing the joists to the plywood (check other threads for a good glue, I can't think of one off the top of my head) and deck screws. Attach the legs to the frame using nice long decking screws. Pilot drilling these may help getting these in without too much risk of splitting things.
The way I have designed the corners, the boards can be screwed from several directions to make sure everything stays nice and straight. Facing the sides with plywood will be needed to give the stand lateral support. This plywood will also give you a place to mount the doors. A screw every 6 inches or so aroud the perimeter should do the trick.
The 2X4 bracing in the middle serves two purposes; the first is to ensure the long sides don't bow out and provides a convenient place to mount a light. If you decide to face the top, then this can be removed for the front to back joists.
If you have any other questions, let me know.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
Sorry, forgot the details and cut list:
Stand is 96" X 24" X 36"
2X6: (2) 96", (2) 92", (2) 21", (2) 17"
2X4: (2) 96", (2) 92", (2) 21", (4) 17"
4X4: (6) 27"
1/2" Plywood: (2) 5.5" X 93", (2) 5.5" X 20", (2) 3.5" X 93", (2) 3.5" X 20"
Now, this is just my design. To get the 18" wide sump you have, I would say increase the short sides by 1.5" so inside the stand will be 18" wide. This would mean putting the tank set back about 3/4" from the front and back edge, but this setback would also put the tank edge in the center of the boards.
Enjoy
Stand is 96" X 24" X 36"
2X6: (2) 96", (2) 92", (2) 21", (2) 17"
2X4: (2) 96", (2) 92", (2) 21", (4) 17"
4X4: (6) 27"
1/2" Plywood: (2) 5.5" X 93", (2) 5.5" X 20", (2) 3.5" X 93", (2) 3.5" X 20"
Now, this is just my design. To get the 18" wide sump you have, I would say increase the short sides by 1.5" so inside the stand will be 18" wide. This would mean putting the tank set back about 3/4" from the front and back edge, but this setback would also put the tank edge in the center of the boards.
Enjoy
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
The plywood makes the beams 3.5 inches wide which is the same dimensions as the 4X4 posts. Finished lumber is about 1/2" thinner then the description says. It also serves to stiffen the beams and better transfer the loads.
faded1004
New member
mmmm, looks delicious... hahahah...
how do you know if you need bracing other then the corners? i know most glass needs bracing at corners only... but dont' know where it gets fuzzy... anyone know anythign about it?
my tank is 96" x 24.5" x 25.5", is there an easy way to see if the tank needs more center bracing? i just automatically assume it needs it cause 8" is a long tank.... hahahha... i was going to go 3x3, but now, i guess i will go 4x4 now...
i am so excited, my penductors came in... and they are so nice... a very nice paper weight right now... ahahahah...
drhank - what have you picked up so far? seems like you got your tank?
how do you know if you need bracing other then the corners? i know most glass needs bracing at corners only... but dont' know where it gets fuzzy... anyone know anythign about it?
my tank is 96" x 24.5" x 25.5", is there an easy way to see if the tank needs more center bracing? i just automatically assume it needs it cause 8" is a long tank.... hahahha... i was going to go 3x3, but now, i guess i will go 4x4 now...
i am so excited, my penductors came in... and they are so nice... a very nice paper weight right now... ahahahah...
drhank - what have you picked up so far? seems like you got your tank?
DrHank
New member
So far just the tank. The fixture with 4 T5s will move over from the 110 and another 4 T5s on the other side. My skimmer is too small so I'll get a bigger one. I was thinking of a dart for the return but lately I'm leaning toward a marlin and 4 penductors. I'm really in no rush so I'll start by doing the stand and canopy. As long as it turns out looking like a nice piece of furniture my wife will be happy. If she's happy, I get the rest of the equipment I want with no grief.
