Need gig treatment help

blackgate

Member
Yesterday I bought a bleached purple gig (extremely rare to find a gig in NC). It was holding itself upright, had great looking folds, a fairly tight mouth, and EXTREMELEY sticky. By the time I had got it home, it had regurgitated ALOT of junk and was flat as a pancake. Not dead zoo, but tissue and internals, VERY worrisome. It immediately went into my treatment tank with cipro last night and is looking really good this morning. It has all of its shape back and the mouth is looking better, not great, but better. My problem is, he moved off of my cup and is now wedged himself between the tank and the cup. How can I do a 100% waterchange without disturbing him. I want to be able to put him in my other treatment tank so I can completely clean his current tank and then switch back and forth. How do I do this without having to pull him off the bottom and possibly injuring him or making things worse in general. Please help all of you smart gig owners!
 
What are you concerned about? It is ok if they are exposed to the air for a few minutes while you do the water change. Gigs are often exposed for hours at low tide.
 
Should I just continue treatment in the original tank then and not worry about trying to switch him over to another? I thought the idea was to clean one tank while treating in another
 
Should I just continue treatment in the original tank then and not worry about trying to switch him over to another? I thought the idea was to clean one tank while treating in another

No need. Just try to vacuum up as much crap as possible when you do the water change. You can use an aquarium safe brush if you are concerned about buildup on the glass. Alternatively, I have had success using a cheap HOB filter on the back of the QT tank. That will trap much of the waste and then you can just rinse or swap out the pad with every WC.
 
No need. Just try to vacuum up as much crap as possible when you do the water change. You can use an aquarium safe brush if you are concerned about buildup on the glass. Alternatively, I have had success using a cheap HOB filter on the back of the QT tank. That will trap much of the waste and then you can just rinse or swap out the pad with every WC.

I agree - I don't think there would be a major difference between a 100% WC, and a 90% water change in terms of effectiveness, especially since you are doing it daily over several days...
 
Alright, I have treated mags before using the alternating tank method and have been very successful. This is my first gig, and I am just nervous about it. We just don't get these guys in around here at all and honestly this was shipped to my LFS as an "assorted carpet anemone from Sri Lanka". I will try and upload a photo here in a bit and get everyone's opinion on it.
 
Well there hasn't been any changes in the gig. No deflations since the initial night on the drive home. Other than some poop and dead zoo that I have seen, it continually holds its shape and today for the first day, the mouth has stayed completely closed and tight. This will be the fourth night of cipro. Do you guys think I should continue the full course for 7 days or 5? It really has and does look good, other than it being bleached so badly.

 
I've treated all my nems for at least 6 days. My most recent acquisition, mid January, is similar looking to yours. Only in the past few days do I see hints of zoo coming back and that is after a transplant. With cipro my experiences have been loss of zoo, so I try to feed as soon as they look healthy. If the feeding response is good, I put anem into display. This is what has worked for me. Good luck, I like the color!
 
If I am you I would go for the 7 days treatment. I don't think my treatment tank stress the anemone very much. If you don't have anemone in the tank, you can transfer him to the DT after 5 days of not deflating.
 
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