need help on rbta

[raoul]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9067795#post9067795 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnestroy
I hate to jump in again, but I have a 150watt Halide and I placed my RBTA under it for max light, and he moved clear to the other side of the tank... So I donno about the light.

I kinda think these creators go where they are happy

Okay, this is technical stuff, and I'm not so great at remembering everything, so take this for what it's worth.

Breeder tanks are short, correct? Your 150 mh may be too much (depending how close to the water it is) for a shallower tank. The nem may have moved because the lighting was too intense. By going to the other side of the tank, it did go where it's happier and the lighting isn't as intense. I could be wrong though!

 

[gunnwong]

thank you everyone, but I'm kind of confuse??
If my light is not enough and the rbta want more light then why my is hiding under the rock? If it need more light, I think isn't it should come out to the top of the tank?
I also have 150w mh too but in the middle of the tank but my rbta is on the bottom left of the tank?
should I move the MH to the left, maybe the rbta will come out?
thank you

 

[sarahkucera]

You're confused????
How do you think everyone trying to give you advice feels?

First you say "I have T5 light" without giving a wattage.

then you say "the light just been use for two months"

and then "36" Ready Fit: 2-39W T5 HO Retrofit Kit"

and now finally "I also have 150w mh too but in the middle of the tank but my rbta is on the bottom left of the tank?"

How can anyone make any suggestions or try to help you when they don't know what you're talking about because your information is confusing, contradictory, and incomplete?

When someone asks you what kind of lighting you have over your tank that means describe in full any and all lighting including type of lighting, number of bulbs, all wattages, and any other pertinent facts.

When someone asks you what your water parameters are that means you should provide salinity, ph, temperature, nitrates, and nitrites, as a minimum description. You can't just say your water is good and leave it at that.

Something is wrong in your tank and it could very well be any number of things that are lighting or water quality related.

Water quality and lighting issues are the major reasons of death for anemones and you're not giving us answers to either one of these questions that would help us to help you. Until we can get clear and succint answers to both of these questions, there is no further help that anyone can give you that wouldn't be a waste of time.

Until you can sort this out and provide these answers, don't get any more anemones if/when this one dies.

 

[gunnwong]

ok sorry for not giving the answer correctly
ok this is every thing I know for now
Water parameter test by using
saltwater master liquid test kit
PH 8 - 8.2 (in between)
Ammonia 0.5ppm
Nitrate 0-5ppm (in between)
Nitrite 0ppm
Calcium test by Salifert 430ppm
Specific Gravit test by coralife hydro meter ~=1.021

light :
36" Ready Fit: 2-39W T5 HO Retrofit Kit
tank is 55g tall
1 MH 150w viper K-2 not sure that it 150 or 175w (locate at the center of the tank)

rbta is locate under lr on the bottom left of the tank
thank you

 

[RedSonja]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9081924#post9081924 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gunnwong
ok sorry for not giving the answer correctly
ok this is every thing I know for now
Water parameter test by using
saltwater master liquid test kit
PH 8 - 8.2 (in between)
Ammonia 0.5ppm
Nitrate 0-5ppm (in between)
Nitrite 0ppm
Calcium test by Salifert 430ppm
Specific Gravit test by coralife hydro meter ~=1.021

Your salinity is low, and your pH is low. Ammonia should be zero. Nitrite should be zero. This tank is far too new to support an anemone, it is a tribute to the hardiness of the BTA that it is even still alive. Activated carbon and water changes would be my first line of action, test water again a day later. Feeding it pencil-eraser sized pieces of food might help, but I think it may be too far gone to save.

-Sonja

 

[Slakker]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9068308#post9068308 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by redvipe2010
Doing some research today came across a picture and went, WOW, I've seen something like that really recently. So anyone who has Clownfishes, By Joyce D. Wilkerson, turn to page 37.

I'm sort of 50/50 on the identification on this anemone, although at first I agreed it was a BTA, and it still could be. The pics in this post are not as clear as in Joyce's book, but lets not rule out the possibility.

Whats your thoughts.

Could you perhaps fill in those of us without the book on what you're talking about? I'm curious and also confused...lol

 

[gunnwong]

the tank is been up for a year already and as the ammonia and nitrite go, I never see it ever read 0 even when I do 50% water change. All my life stock(fish and coral) is healty and eating good. For activated carbon, I ready from somewhere(I don't remember where) they said that after the tank have been up for more than 6 month. I should not use Activated carbon anymore. I read from somewhere in this reefcentral that said activated carbon is bad for reef tank, is that true??
thank you

 

[Slakker]

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but if ammonia and nitrite are never 0, it's like your tank never finished cycling, either that or your bioload is way too high for the filtration you've got.

 

[sarahkucera]

Now that we have some facts, it appears that you have enough light over your tank. If the nem thinks that the MH is too strong it will move out of the way. A BTA living with it's foot planted underneath an overhang is normal, when it has tentacles they would extend out and get light.

For starters it appears that you have a water quality issue.
Your salinity is low. I keep mine at 1.023.
Your ph is low. I believe that 8.3-8.4 is recommended for reef and nem tanks.
Where are you getting your water from and can you describe how you do a water change? How often? How many gallons? Do you mix yourself?
What type of filtration are you using?
How much live rock do you have in the tank?
What are the other occupants of the tank (please list all verts and inverts along with their approximate sizes)?

 

[gunnwong]

thank you sarahkucera
in tank I have 15-20 Astraea Snail
20 hermit
8-10 Nassarius Snail
1 cleaner shrimp
1 fire shrimp

as the fish go
pair of Watanabe Angelfish
pair of Allardi Clown
1 Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse
1 Scott's Fairy Wrasse
1 red scooter blenny
1 Golden Head Goby

I also have 30g sump that fill with macro algae
filter I use Marineland Penguin Bio-Wheel Penguin 350 rate for 75g (this might be my problem)
skimmer I use Red Sea Prizm Protein Skimmer(that my biggest problem right now)
but I already order CPR Bak-Pak Dual Pak Protein Skimmer, should be here by monday
I also have Aqua Clear Aquarium Filters 500, I use it as a pod breeder tank, I fill with macroalgae and miracle mud and a lot of pod inside.
as the LR I'm not sure how many pound I have but should be more than 100 pounds
I use natual sea water that I get it from my local sea urchin lab in Corona Del Ma, CA. It good for the lab so I guess it should be good for my tank I guess. A lot of local reefer here in OC use it.
thank you