Need help with Baffle Design

what if i kept the baffles lower tho like i would with the 30 gallon but have extra room for extra water to come in for a power outage. like stated, 12 inches for the fuge, and 9 inches for the skimmer area?
 
This tank will fit your needs: 48X13X20 Perfecto Aquarium 55 GALLON, but if you can fit a 48X18X21 Perfecto Aquarium 75 GALLON is better wider and with more volume.
 
Dactylopterus said:
This tank will fit your needs: 48X13X20 Perfecto Aquarium 55 GALLON, but if you can fit a 48X18X21 Perfecto Aquarium 75 GALLON is better wider and with more volume.
Click to expand...

my stand is only 18 inches wide which is why i am having a problem with trying to find a sump, since i can really only get a sump 12 inches wide.
 
I perfer two baffles(over and then under) less rapids and bubbles through my high flow 75gal sump. Baffles are 1.5inches apart and 1.5inches under.
 
phish guy said:
what if i kept the baffles lower tho like i would with the 30 gallon but have extra room for extra water to come in for a power outage. like stated, 12 inches for the fuge, and 9 inches for the skimmer area?
Click to expand...


You could get up to 13" - 14" for the fuge, and likely not have a problem with power out drain down. But still, and I see the reason there is an issue with width, there is the flow rate thing.
 
would i be able to use the 2 baffle (over under) method for the fuge section that uncleof6 gave to me to help with noise and bubbles?
 
Depends on the flow rate, 1 baffle, two baffle, three baffle, it will still be noisy if the flow rate is not suited for the baffle width.
 
so i wouldnt run into problems with the babbles and oxygen levels in the 16 inch wide sump, and would be able to do a reef with the 16 inch wide sump?! im sorry if im repeating myself, just got really happy after getting really depressed thinking i wouldnt be able to run my tank:)
 
phish guy said:
so i wouldnt run into problems with the babbles and oxygen levels in the 16 inch wide sump, and would be able to do a reef with the 16 inch wide sump?! im sorry if im repeating myself, just got really happy after getting really depressed thinking i wouldnt be able to run my tank:)
Click to expand...

You will be fine. Just remember the power heads.
 
Remember to make sure for whatever sump dimension you settle on that you can still have enough room to manouever it into place. The size of the doors for the stand and the depth of the stand, will affect this.
 
I am also considering using my 30 gallon tank for a sump/fuge for a 90 gallon system I'm currently planning. I also have a 40 gallon that I could use instead. Using the center section for the return pump and feeding the fuge off the return line makes sense - not using the full flow of the sump through the fuge. What I'm wondering is would it be OK to make the baffle between the fuge and the return section more open, ie. making some portion of the baffle out of egg crate to allow easier access to the pump for the fuge critters.
Also, any suggestions for a return pump for a 90 gallon system and a 9 foot head from the sump to the DT (sump in basement)
 
40 is the better choice.

No, "opening" the baffle defeats the whole purpose of the baffle, as your 'fuge" water level will drop as the return level drops.

A pump capable of delivering 1200 - 1500 gph at your static head height. To allow for the fuge, and dynamic head losses (friction loss) in the plumbing.
 
nl146 said:
Remember to make sure for whatever sump dimension you settle on that you can still have enough room to manouever it into place. The size of the doors for the stand and the depth of the stand, will affect this.
Click to expand...

what do you mean? my stand is open right now and i can just place the sump right in since there is no tank on the stand yet. i still have an electrician coming to give me an extra outlet to work with, which is why the tank is still on the carpet right now:)
 
uncleof6 said:
40 is the better choice.

No, "opening" the baffle defeats the whole purpose of the baffle, as your 'fuge" water level will drop as the return level drops.
Click to expand...

There will be an ATO so little fluctuations in the level. I was thinking that the main purpose of the baffle was to keep the chaeto out of the pump/DT.

Wouldn't opening up the baffle allow for larger water changes? If the baffle only overflows from the fuge at the top, emptying water from the sump for water changes is kind of limited to the volume of the return section, right?
 
here is i diagram of the sump i am going to do. i ordered a 48 x 16 x 17 tank from glasscages.com it should fit snug into the stand. i have about 17 inches wide to fit in the stand. i am going to use Lee's flex tubing for the intake and return for my sump. the mag 24 is going to be connected to a 3/4" adapter for my 3/4" tubing. then its going to be teed off then into the tank. here is a quick draw up of the sump. please reply with any comments or questions about the sump. thank you
 

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