Need help with Baffle Design

[uncleof6]

There will be an ATO so little fluctuations in the level. I was thinking that the main purpose of the baffle was to keep the chaeto out of the pump/DT.


No that is not the purpose of the baffle. It is for flow control and volume control.

Wouldn't opening up the baffle allow for larger water changes? If the baffle only overflows from the fuge at the top, emptying water from the sump for water changes is kind of limited to the volume of the return section, right?

Plus the power out drain down, that is all the water you can change at one time anyway. Or are you wanting to drain water out of an area with "life" in it? Then it depends on where you tap the sump for the "water change"

 

[uncleof6]

here is i diagram of the sump i am going to do. i ordered a 48 x 16 x 17 tank from glasscages.com it should fit snug into the stand. i have about 17 inches wide to fit in the stand. i am going to use Lee's flex tubing for the intake and return for my sump. the mag 24 is going to be connected to a 3/4" adapter for my 3/4" tubing. then its going to be teed off then into the tank. here is a quick draw up of the sump. please reply with any comments or questions about the sump. thank you

3/4" tubing? The outlet on that pump is 1". Further, the instructions say 1.5" inside diameter minimum hose size..........just went over and around and around with this in another thread.

http://www.dannermfg.com/Store/images/instructions/ZG140.pdf

Running it right into a TEE is like running it into a brick wall. Choking the flow. You will not likely get much flow out of that pump, set up this way.

Single 1.5" return line is your best bet.


Feed the fuge with that big pump you got right there---. If you have two drains coming out of the tank, put them both in the skimmer section, and don't "Y" them together. That is where the water needs to go: to the skimmer. Plus it saves you a 'sock.' Socks are another topic however.

 

[reefermad619]

I co-sign the brick wall T. I had a quiet one 4000 set up with a T to split my returns. I got an additional 200 gph by taking away my T and running one exit from the pump. Good job on the sump tank. Were you not able to get a tank with similar dims local?

 

[phish guy]

so should i plug up one return with a bulkhead in my overflow? or have 1 pump going to each return? can i upgrade my return hose size to 1" with my all-glass aquarium overflow kit? thank you for everything guys

 

[rrasco]

So a 55 gallon sump on a 210 with a 1/8hp reeflo dart would make the sump loud? I'm going through considerable lengths to make this setup quiet (bean method, etc), I would hate for the sump to be loud after all the effort. Unfortunately, while I could fit a tank up to about 22" in width in the stand, the problem is getting it in the stand. I left a 13" opening on each side so I could slide a 55 in or out.

 

[nl146]

what do you mean? my stand is open right now and i can just place the sump right in since there is no tank on the stand yet. i still have an electrician coming to give me an extra outlet to work with, which is why the tank is still on the carpet right now

Sorry, I thought the stand was enclosed.

 

[uncleof6]

So a 55 gallon sump on a 210 with a 1/8hp reeflo dart would make the sump loud? I'm going through considerable lengths to make this setup quiet (bean method, etc), I would hate for the sump to be loud after all the effort. Unfortunately, while I could fit a tank up to about 22" in width in the stand, the problem is getting it in the stand. I left a 13" opening on each side so I could slide a 55 in or out.

Opps! yes with the dart, you are going to want a wider sump.

 

[rrasco]

Hmm...I just tried to stuff a 40 breeder in my stand and it won't fit. :/

 

[uncleof6]

Hate over built stands

 

[rrasco]

Actually, quite the contrary. Just won't fit through the openings. Side panels are removable and expose 13" openings. Left panel is out here.

 

[uncleof6]

remove and replace one of the vertical supports in the center of a door. The tank is supported at the four corners,

 

[rrasco]

The Tite Bond III I used says, "No".

 

[uncleof6]

Sawsall says yes. Or skillsaw, or jigsaw............

 

[rrasco]

LOL. I was just looking at it with my neighbor and decided I should cut out the two rear supports and put one larger middle support, hopefully giving me the freedom to slide the 40 breeder in there. I'm actually disappointed I didn't think of that to begin with because my 150 stand is built like that. On that note, do you think a 40 breeder is sufficient for a 210? It will house a Bubble Magus NAC9.

 

[uncleof6]

That or a 50 breeder, same foot print but 18" high.... could probably get a custom 60 in there too, not sure though. Just make it a 75 by making it wider lol



Cutting out the rear supports is not a bad idea either. Easy enough to replace them, if you get uneasy about it.

 

[rrasco]

Yeah, I'm definitely going to remove the back supports if any. I don't want to mess up the display side. I actually have that sump design saved on my computer, that's exactly what my system will look like except with through-the-glass locline returns.

 

[uncleof6]

Hey that's my design chuckles

 

[rrasco]

I saved it off of one of your posts awhile back while lurking. Didn't remember who I snagged it from. That's what I was going to do already, to my scale anyways, you just did a magnificent job of modeling it already so it was a great visual reference. I don't always do bubble traps though, sometimes I do two baffles spaced farther apart over-under with mechanical media between. It makes it easy to run sponges, or phosphate removers, or whatever. Still undecided at this point. But on that note, thanks!

 

[uncleof6]

With the drain system I use, I don't use bubble traps anymore, mainly it is in the drawing because most other do need them.

 

[rrasco]

By that do you mean the bean system?