Need opinions on lighting...

[jbrunken]

I'm starting to get the metal halide bug (love the ripple effect) but I have so many questions about how I could set it up and (perhaps more importantly) what I should setup.

First a little background: My tank is a 6' 125 Gallon that sits in my office (in my basement). It's got an orbit 6 x 96W PC light fixture. My basement (especially my office) tends to stay about the same temp year round. If anything, I've noticed that them temp in the tank averages about 1 degree warmer (80 instead of 79) since we stopped using the air conditioner.


Here's what I'm thinking I'd like to do:

1) Axe the orbit light fixture
2) Build a custom canopy that somewhat matches my current stand.
3) Add MH retrofit kits
4) Add Suplimental T5's (only if really needed).
5) Add Moonlights
6) Be able to grow SPS in the top 1/5 of my tank.

Here's what I don't want to do:

1) Create a situation where the metal halides in the canopy requires me to get a chiller.
2) Create a situation where the electric bill causes my wife to divorce me.
3) I don't want to spend any more than absolutely necessary.


Right now, I'm thinking of adding some mixture of HQI fixtures and T5 bulbs, but I really don't know what would be the best combination for my tank.

I know that there is a tank at Sea of Marvel that I really like the looks of and I asked Hung about the lighting and he said it was 14K bulbs.

I'm thinking something like this: 3 x 150W HQI w/14K bulbs + 4 x 39 T5 Actinics (for the dusk effect).

So... My question to all of you is this:

Given my situation/wants/needs, what combination would you recommend?

Thanks!

-JB

 

[leeweber85]

In my opinion you don't need actinics with 14K, I do like using the actinics before and after the halides though.

If you compare the data, the 250se bulbs blow away any other double ended bulbs. I used to believe the whole thing that double ended bulbs were much better but from what I've read that is all just a marketing scam. If you go to this website you can compare the differences between a mix of bulbs/ballasts.

http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/select2lamp.php

On my 125, I have 2- 150w DE 14K bulbs and 1 -250w SE 15k. I really wish I had all 3 -250w SE bulbs.

 

[jbrunken]

Don't the 250W SE's kick out a ton of heat? My main reason for wanting to go ith the 150's is the desire to NOT have to get an expensive chiller that will add even more to my electric bill.

Could 3 250W SE's be put into canopy without having to add a chiller?

I'm also concerned that they would heat up my little 9'x14' office to the point were it wasn't bearable...

Thanks for your input!

-JB

 

[got2lb]

by jbrunken


Could 3 250W SE's be put into canopy without having to add a chiller?

-JB

I hope so, I plan on putting 2 x 250's in mine without a chiller. I'm going to be putting some fans in the canopy to help blow the heat away.

 

[glaspie69]

LOL any halide is going to kick out heat......it just depends on how you build your canopy. You shouldn't have a problem if you vent it with fans correctly, and I would definely go with the SE. Also if you need some canopy ideas or you need one built let me know.....I've built a few for club members I'm sure they could vouch for me. Jason

 

[jbrunken]

Ok, let's say I wanted to go with 3 250W 15K SE fixtures.

Does anyone have recommendations on what parts are the best bang for the buck?

So far, this seems to be the best setup I can find:

IceCap 250 Watt Electronic Metal Halide/ HQI Ballast - $115 Each
PFO EL Ballast Box (for IceCap Metal Halide Ballast) - $40 Each
250 Watt 15000K Metal Halide Bulb - XM, Mogul Base - $65 Each
Spider Light Reflector w/ Mogul & Quick Disconnect - $55 EAch

So, that's $275 per fixture (not counting actinics & moonlights)...

Ouch! Are there some less expensive options that I'm missing?

-JB

 

[glaspie69]

http://hellolights.com/

I bought 2-250's with reflectors, ballasts, bulbs a set of 2-110 watt vho's for 550 ......You might have to buy it in peices to make it more affordable.......and if your planning on keeping this setup for awhile I would consider spending the cash and getting luminarc reflectors

 

[got2lb]

www.diyreef.com

Check it out.

This is exactly what I was planning on getting.

icecap ballast, reflector w/mogul socket for $159.95

http://diyreef.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=64&products_id=421

xm 15k bulb $59.95

http://diyreef.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=61&products_id=180

cheapest place i've found and supposed to be a good vendor

 

[jbrunken]

Here's another interesting reflector option...

It has Sockets for PC/VHO built in...

http://www.aquadirect.com/store/product.php?productid=981&pconf=982&slot=25

The 15" with 2 x 28W PC might be good for the dusk/dawn effect and it shouldn't be hard to fit 3 of these in a 72" canopy. At $55 they are the same price as the Spyder reflectors...

-JB

 

[jbrunken]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8277647#post8277647 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by glaspie69
LOL any halide is going to kick out heat......it just depends on how you build your canopy. You shouldn't have a problem if you vent it with fans correctly, and I would definely go with the SE. Also if you need some canopy ideas or you need one built let me know.....I've built a few for club members I'm sure they could vouch for me. Jason

I'm definitely interested in canopy ideas. I'm not much of a woodworker myself, but my father in law is and he lives pretty close. The problem is that neither of us really know the first thing about building an aquarium canopy, especially one for MH lights...

-JB

 

[glaspie69]

PC's run HOT

 

[got2lb]

If you want something for just actinic I would go VHO's. They're pretty much the best actinics on the market right now and you can get them in the 6' length.

Some of the new T5 bulbs are getting much better but I haven't personally seen any on someones tank yet.

 

[slovan]

3) 250W SE MH shouldn't be a problem for a 125. I had 2) 400W SE on my 120 for 2 months without using a chiller. The 400W MH put out a ton more heat than the 250's ever would. I'll let you compare when you come over.

 

[jbrunken]

I'm not opposed at all to doing VHO's rather than PC. I just want to make sure that it will all fit in the hood!

-JB

 

[leeweber85]

I would recommend the hamilton 14k over the xm15k. xm 15k has less PAR than the xm 20k

not sure if this link will work or not:

http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe....avelength=400&Maxwavelength=700&Submit=Submit

 

[jbrunken]

Lee,

The link worked, that's good info...

Is there a big visual difference between the 14K and the 15K?

-JB

 

[leeweber85]

I wouldn't say so. Here is a comparison picture of my tank with a 150w DE-14k on the left, and a 250w SE-15k (xm) on the right.

and here they are all together:

 

[Covey]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8277564#post8277564 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jbrunken
Could 3 250W SE's be put into canopy without having to add a chiller?-JB

I am doing 3x400 without a chiller. Room temp 70F, small fan and a open top canopy. It's very doable you just can't box in the lights.

 

[Covey]

Oh yeah I second the Hello lights too. Rumor has it that the new ARO electronic ballast is made by the same people that build the ballast for IceCap. So the quality is there and the price is right.

 

[jbrunken]

Ok,

I saw Sloval's setup today and it looked fantastic. I think I'm going to try and do something similar with my canopy and lights...

Right now I know I'm going to go with all 250 SE bulbs... Probably either 20K/14K/20K or 14K/20K/14K.

With either one of these setups, I don't think that I would really need to have any actinics (though I may add a some small ones anyway).


-JB