need some help and advice on this...

UNCsalt

UNCsalt

New member
Ok so the cliff note version. I have my PBT in the last stretch of TTM. QT the tang, after 7 months of tank up and running that I was ick free, NOT!!!:angryfire: So here is my issue, tank is 125 gallon, I really dont have the space to house all the rest of the flock for 72 days while tank runs fallow, oh and my tank is a fowlr. What are my options

Option 1 Remove the LR and house in a container and ditch the sand, empty and bleach tank and air dry, include all the equipment and sump, while they go threw TTM.

Option 2 Take rock out and house in a container with flow, treat with cupramine. I have a few snails nothing else, I can remove those. I have a bi-color, pearl scale, aurgria angel not sure how that will effect them.

Option 3 I get my glass and half gallon on Markers Mark and sit in front of tank and drink away the ick.

So in the famous words of John Quinones "What would you do"?

Any and all suggestions would be much appreciated...thanks
 
Chloroquine Phosphate is probably the easiest option unless you have some fish that don't tolerate it. I would check that first.

Another option would be to remove the live rocks, sand and snails and house/cycle them in a separate bin for 3 months while treating the fish inside the system with whatever you see fit.

I would do hyposalinity as it doesn't require handling the fish every 3 days and scrubbing and drying the tank every time. Hypo works well against Cryptocaryon - with the exception of some low salinity strains (to my knowledge those were only observed with farmed food fish in Taiwan and I haven't heard anyone ever having them in a fish tank).
 
ThRoewer said:
Chloroquine Phosphate is probably the easiest option unless you have some fish that don't tolerate it. I would check that first.

Another option would be to remove the live rocks, sand and snails and house/cycle them in a separate bin for 3 months while treating the fish inside the system with whatever you see fit.

I would do hyposalinity as it doesn't require handling the fish every 3 days and scrubbing and drying the tank every time. Hypo works well against Cryptocaryon - with the exception of some low salinity strains (to my knowledge those were only observed with farmed food fish in Taiwan and I haven't heard anyone ever having them in a fish tank).
Click to expand...

Thanks I have tried hypo in the past with not alot of succuss...
 
Dmorty217 said:
Wrasse are the only fish that are known not to respond well to CP
Click to expand...

I have a dragon wrasse or I should say my wife does I dont like him so I guess I will TTM him and QT. Is there anything about this treatment that I should be on the look out for or should know about? Have you used it with sucess?
 
UNCsalt said:
I have a dragon wrasse or I should say my wife does I dont like him so I guess I will TTM him and QT. Is there anything about this treatment that I should be on the look out for or should know about? Have you used it with sucess?
Click to expand...

Just follow the dosing instructions. It's a "one and done" treatment that you should do for 30 days. Turn off your aquarium lights, as they can denature the compound. Remove all chemical filtration like carbon. There is disagreement about leaving the skimmer on during treatment -- I personally wouldn't keep it on. If you do water changes, be sure to redose the appropriate amount into the new water before you pour it into the tank. Other than that, it's a pretty straightforward treatment that has a relatively wide range of effectiveness.
 
Deinonych said:
Just follow the dosing instructions. It's a "one and done" treatment that you should do for 30 days. Turn off your aquarium lights, as they can denature the compound. Remove all chemical filtration like carbon. There is disagreement about leaving the skimmer on during treatment -- I personally wouldn't keep it on. If you do water changes, be sure to redose the appropriate amount into the new water before you pour it into the tank. Other than that, it's a pretty straightforward treatment that has a relatively wide range of effectiveness.
Click to expand...

This. Also using trusted suppliers of CP is crucial. I got some off eBay from the seller on there, used it for 30 days then did a massive water change (QT system was 300g+ with all my fish in it) then noticed my clown tang flashing the very next day. Purchased NLS ich shield powder and dosed it just like the other CP I had gotten instead of following the 30mg/g recommendation (I did 40mg/g) and it ended horribly. Killed a newly aquired Red Sea regal and Mitratus BF then lost every single pther fish except for my foxface who I'm now sure is blind from the secondary infections... I lost 3500$ worth of fish in one fell swoop (outside of shipping costs) but I believe it was caused by the not pure CP I got from eBay coupled with the higher dosage of ich shield. Fish can develop bacterial infections if they are in CP for long periods of time, but others don't seem to have problems. Seems individual fish will vary on this.
 
ThRoewer said:
You forgot to mention that pipefish and sea dragons (and probably seahorses) are known not to tolerate it.
Click to expand...

Most people I would hope would TTM the sea dragons and pipefish, is why I didn't mention them... Well all know what happens when you assume though:fun2:
 
Dmorty217 said:
Most people I would hope would TTM the sea dragons and pipefish, is why I didn't mention them... Well all know what happens when you assume though:fun2:
Click to expand...

ROTFLMAO. Especially in this hobby. Those that can afford sea dragons would not how to keep them, however.

:lol2:
 
snorvich said:
ROTFLMAO. Especially in this hobby. Those that can afford sea dragons would not how to keep them, however.

:lol2:
Click to expand...

I have to agree with that :lolspin:

Though Sea Dragons are pretty much only available to public aquariums anyway.
But public aquariums are more effective in killing fish than hobby aquarists (according to a source from Quality Marine).
 
how do you measure the ick shield powder? I can only find 50 g containers of it online . but it dose not say what that will treat ?
so I don't even know how much to order to keep on hand .
anyone know what that will treat ?
thanks Dominic
 
At 30mg/g you multiply by however many gallons you have and use a digital gram scale. So once you have the gallons being treated multiply the mgs needed by 1000 to get the mg total into grams. I would actually measure the water levels in the tank with a tape and then use the tank size calculator on the home page here
 
ok so I was looking at the instructions on NLS ick shield powder and it says no LR and DSB. Well I have both so if I have to take out the LR and sand why would I not just use cupramine? ugh...I have it and will have to order the NLS ich shield.
 
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