New Acrylic aquarium - I'm back after 30 y.

I was glad that I placed this metal part with thread and now just rotate and get perfect alignment of wires no matter that holes was OK in place.
you can even rotate angle nice.
17209643980535240483243546775011.jpg
17209644229995118982055691119769.jpg


Anyway I will add safety wire additionaly.
The only from my long electrical experience Giesemann made bad placing 3 separate cabling going now up ugly...instead 1 multicore white and one small distribution box on top we fix and from there in nice channel to power control unit.
Will write them suggestion ;) as allways professional deformation lol.
17209643400586512027365463539823.jpg
 
Just will use nice white cable channel to lead cables nicely up than left to induction trafo.
 
Last edited:
Tired from yesterday keeping arms in up to the ceiling painting up down on ladder 100 times ect. Aquarium Is waiting bricks and will be placed soon.

17209669187203126526850015966545.jpg
 
Last edited:
As living room will get a new Tarkett on the floor as well new air conditioning unit with dehumidifier of course window will be open on kip |/ allways winter summer time...
This is it guys let's say thanks for following waiting for your opinion about sand please. To buy more and test...
 
Last edited:
With sand it can be hard to judge without having it in the tank. Just know that generally finer sand will settle to the bottom with coarser stuff on top.

With that said, Bulk Reef Supply has a calculator that may help you out (and you can switch between metric and imperial)

 
Thanks a lot for help. Appriciate.
To get 2 " (approx.4 cm i want)
Calculation say 49 kg.
Hmmmm seams 10 kg missing but will buy 2 bags more for any case as will need also fine sand for small sump deep sand bed...

1. Acrylic weight 1,5 cm 130x60x75 cm
2. Sand 50 kg
3.Live rocks small 2 arches 20 kg max.
4. Salt water 500 liters
5. Pump + magnet
6.Overflow Eclipse L

Quite lot of heavy all together but stand is original building concrete wall + 30 cm wider by stabile big bricks we use to build houses in Europe. ;)

Let's slightly finalise and start glueing pipes...
 
And I wrote to Giesemann to improve this mess of cabling with 1 multicore white cable up to small distribution box
than from there 3 separate cabling. Will look amazing better than 3 cabling now. Grrrrrr :)
1.5 m cable white one from lamp to ceiling + this small box from which 3 cables goes in channel ect...
What you think?
I will see if this cabling will be ugly to hanging fixing or cable plastic channel will create
awfull part on top will change them with 1 multicore. Simple job.
Inside lamp all wires is additonaly in high temperature silicon sleeves protected. Well done.
s-l1600.jpg


20240402_171158_resized.jpg

images.jpeg


Rvv-Round-Flexible-Copper-Cable-300-500V-2-Core-Cables-1-5mm2-2-5mm2-White-Electric-Wires-with...jpg
 
ok nice Geisemann replied at once. For me and all of you planning to order MHi.
AT the end I will do this bymyself simple and easy.

"Hello Mr. Branko,
thanks a lot for your message – of course we could have made another design regarding the cables. There are thousands of arguments for the existing wiring (e.g. because of possibility of different lengths of light units with up to 3 MH-lamps).

But your may either make your own changes, while re-wiring the light with one multicore cable, or next time you may order the desired light via our company directly, then we may produce a special customized light, just as you like! "
 
When I change 3 cables to 1 will post my work of course. Will look also for nice elegant distribution box for ceiling or even enough far from visible part of wires hanger ect. Must be nice and functional for view who care to see 3 cables hanging down in anyway you cant ever fix them to be nice...only in 1 cable plastic channel but 1 cable multicore can be OK going up alone. Not 3. My personal opinion hope you agree with me. Will be ugly 3 cabling. ;)
 
As on the left side you can spot on previous photos its hole in wall from AC and I planned to use nice white plastic channel
from top of MHi to suck heat and with small metal ventilator extract it out on kip open window !/ will help for sure with heat in room
no matter that Air condition, dehumidifier will be ON.
On photo its just white lines but in shop Bauhaus its nice tinny channels to assemble for kitchens and this have low profile
as well will be on ceiling - the part where MHI is under will be cut and open bellow and will nicely suck hot air inside...
Will see if some Alu layer will be need inside channel to fix. On other side of hole at wall will install small metal ventilator
approx. 9x9 cm 12 Volts on solar panel / battery to work by day. As soon purchase channel will present you to see which one
is as if is intended for kitchen fan extraction lets say some heat can be allowed...

OK i found up to 70C heat good enough.
this is channels to use.
https://bhsi-cdn2.elasticbox.eu/med...a/9/0/90422368_21220041_gpokfyaznwnhuthg.webp

17209653259206008963526046334652 copy.jpg
 
No more talk bla bla bla already done.
Supports for air duct channel ready ;)
Will.need only to spray protection paint to not rust anything on top.

20240716_202013.jpg
20240716_202020.jpg
20240716_202025.jpg
 
It's small pause as waiting to concrete some bricks and soon will continue...
Than remaining piping to glue and start.

1. Question as I really don't know and need your help;

On RO exit pipe clean water is pressure enough to bring pipe level up approx. 1,5 m more high to tank for RO water or pressure is very small dripping one?

Why I'm asking as planning in bathroom to place 3-4 small tanks x 10 liters connected and in cabinet 2 m from ground level.

RO is brand new Aqua Medic have pressure pump but this is for input water.

Will exit pipe pressure be good to bring up water? Thanks.
 
I think you should be good with the RO unit as planned. I used to run a line from my RO (located in the basement) up to the refrigerator on the first floor of the house with no issues.
 
Thanks a lot this info helps a lot.
I forgot if RO had any pressure on exit as never needed to prolong pipes just direct to spare tank. ;)
 
Second stage started: Automation in industry was and remain my love in electronics from small children.
Remember to have allways plan B in case that plan A fail. :)
Level sensors can fail as Space Shuttle fail. Level sensors can stuck from debris, some crab or even fish can play
with floating part, if you dont clean it regulary ect ect. Than allways have 2 of them in paralel or serial depend
of connection you need. Sometimes even separate another way can help to avoid leakage of 500 liters of water
and Im on 11th floor in skyscraper. Neighbour allready dont like me as i tell them in face when something is wrong
and here mentality in Serbia is much more different than in Slovenia where i lived over 30 years...

But another people story. Lets focus on automation; If I forgot something add. please.

Main controller that i used before is Siemens LOGO very small simple and reliable
to check all input / output signals and on Omron signals from different sensors
will be connected in one module 8 In and with only 2 wires to another giving Output
signals to relays with more Amperes to equipment. Its not that distance is big but hate
to prolong any sensors wires of Ph, sonds, ect to reach one point on cabinet.
In this way all is very clear and when power fail / solar battery backup will be enough
to have basic logic functionality and 1 main pump in this case from own backup battery
is Ecotech Vectra S2 low consumption of power. This is my planing first check done...



1. sensor max. level water inside aquarium
2. sensor min. level water inside aquarium
3. sensor Max. level water in sump
4. sensor Min. level water in sump
5. Flow sensor On/Off
6. All heaters Off when water level in sump LOW ALARM
7. Ecotech Vectra S2 On/off when no power (on battery backup)
8. Main pump A On/Off
9. Reserve pump B when A is off or removed for cleaning
10. Heater A On/Off controller
11. Heater B reserve On/Off
12. MHI light timer On/Off
13. 2/4 Neon T5 light timer On/Off
14. 4/4 Neon T5 light timer On/Off
15. UV light On/Off
16. RO water unit On/Off
17. RO tank water level Max./ Min Off sensor double
18. Prominent controller Ph/ORP/Temp/Inputs/Outputs On/Off
19. Hanna controller Ph/Salinity/Temp On/Off
20. Earthing catode Titanium On / Off detached
21. Air pressure boobles pump On/Off
22.ATO + automatic refill RO water On/Off
23. Skimmer On/Off
24. Ventilator for extraction of heat from MHi On/Off
25. Carantine water flow pump small one On/Off
26. Carantine heater water On/Off
27. Carantine lamp LED / UV On/Off
28. Siemens LOGO 12 V power transformer On/Off
29. Siemens LOGO 220 V power On/Off
30. Siemens LOGO Display OP On/Off
31. Main Schneider electronic 220/24 Volts inverter for stabile power delivery On/Off
67953904_10157501322394287_2215904826372390912_n.jpg

452508323_10162065550824287_6801313351796176757_n.jpg
452530567_10162065550814287_6045353159283985207_n.jpg
452591043_10162065550849287_1807653555613185987_n.jpg
452630772_10162065550874287_6195442532208525696_n.jpg
R405564-91.jpg



 
This is just small control panel for main Logo functionality or switching control visual display.
It was waiting from 2006. ;)
20240727_162510.jpg
 
My old good reliable so simple level sensors controll remain for nice memories.
The funny was pump when water is low and sensor jumping up and down a little
and pump on off on off than i solved this with small timer relay 3 sec. gap.
talking about 1995 year
S-Video-2004-11-09_16-02-18h 1.jpg
S-Video-2004-11-09_16-01-57h 1.jpg
S-Video-2004-11-09_16-06-17h 1.jpg
67793106_10157495111869287_2634434550255583232_n.jpg
 
Back
Top