New Ca reactor design with pics and drawings

I haven't read this much in 10 years.

Thanks for all the info, everyone that has posted previously. I will add a couple of comments.

The proper drill sizes for tapping holes should be followed, using one even a 64th smaller will impact the quality of the threads. The tap puts a lot of preasure on the hole and if the hole is smaller it is easier to crack the acrylic (simple machine - the screw, but lots of mechanical advantage. At least that is what my grade school science teacher said) You can order any size individual bit for a reasonalbe price from WW Grainger. They now have an online store. Northern tool and Harbour Frieght both have sets that go from 1/16th to 1/2" by 64ths that is very reasonabaly priced. Worth it if you do lots of DIY projects or work around the home.

Lowe's and Home depot have the JG fittings, although not called JG, but same principal. You will find them with the plumbing supplies on the tubing isle. Both also have nylon screws and nuts in the hardware isle in the specialty drawers. I have not seen the thumb screw type though.

And whoa be it for me to correct someone's spelling cause I cant spell cta (cat) ha ha. but the fitting in the venturi is a coupling, not a cuplink.

I am building mine now. I have it all cut out and all the holes drilled and tapped. I guess just glueing is all I have left. This will be my first attempt at gluing but heck you only live once. I need it to warm up some and then I will give it a whirl.

Thanks again to DJ and all those that have suggested improvements. I can't wait to see this thing work on my 150 reef.
 
Melev,

If I buy a regulator with a bubble counter, is there any need for a bubble counter on the reactor? Also I have seen somewhere on this site where someone put a flow control valve that measures / controls the flow of CO2 to the reactor as a replacement for the bubble counter. Any ideas if this would be better?

TAMU Reef
 
I doubt you'd need a bubble counter on your reactor if you have on on the regulator. I have one on both, and only use the one on the regulator currently. The other one is just there because it came that way.

I use a pH Controller by Milwaukee to turn the CO2 on and off, and it determines this by measuring the effluent continuously. I just have the effluent trickle into a cup in my sump, and the pH controller probe is in that cup. The controller does the rest.
 
Could you show me a picture on how this is set up? I am guessing your output from the reactor and the cup overflows into the sump.

Thanks,
TAMU Reef
 
Here you go. In this picture you see my sump, the Calcium Reactor and a red cup.

sump_with_ca_reactor.jpg


And here you can see the cup, with the yellow pH probe in the effluent. The effluent comes down the tubing from the reactor, and goes into the cup. The white thing near the cup is a hose-pinching clamp. It is how I control how much effluent comes out, which is currently more than dripping but less than trickling. I drilled a small hole in the side of the cup about 1" down, so effluent pours out the side and drips down in the sump right before the bubble trap where the most flow exists.

effluent_cup.jpg
 
OMG! I looked at your picture and It just hit it on the head. Why I didn't realize this before? I've gone thru at least 8 Milwuakee regulators.
The guy at Milwaukee has been very nice and always replaced the unit but the same thing would happen after 2-3 months of operation; the unit stops working.

After looking at your picture I realize that its not my regulator that keeps going bad, its the bubble counter that comes wth the regulator.

Are you using the bubble counter that came with the Milwaukee Regulator or plastic one that is attached to the reactor?

BTW nice sump!

:)
 
vmichael,

Why do you think it is the regulator that is going bad? I was thinking of using the same controller and regulator.

TAMU Reef
 
I didn't I think its just the bubble counter on the regulator.

Melev's had great luck with his Milwaukee; I on the other hand have gone thru easily 8, I lost track already. Like I said the people at Milwaukee have been very nice and have always replaced the unit.

So my question is this. Are the people that are using the Milwaukee regulator successfully using the built in bubble counter on the regulator or another bubble counter built into the reactor?
 
I hope there is no problem with the Milwaukee controller. I ordered one Friday for my new CA reactor.

Just about finished building this one, but got several leaks that I am trying to repair. I thought glueing this stuff was easy, not quite as easy as I thought.
 
I was thinking of putting my PH probe inline with my return. Maybe a 1/2" tee with insert fittings on either side. I have even thought about having my effluent return right to the intake of my skimmer, so it has to go through the skimmer, in hopes this helps eliminate excess CO2. Has anyone plumbed their return directly to the skimmer? If so how does it work.

Thanks in advance.
 
I was thinking of putting my PH probe inline with my return. Maybe a 1/2" tee with insert fittings on either side. I have even thought about having my effluent return right to the intake of my skimmer, so it has to go through the skimmer, in hopes this helps eliminate excess CO2. Has anyone plumbed their return directly to the skimmer? If so how does it work.

Thanks in advance.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6309326#post6309326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbasser5
I was thinking of putting my PH probe inline with my return. Maybe a 1/2" tee with insert fittings on either side. I have even thought about having my effluent return right to the intake of my skimmer, so it has to go through the skimmer, in hopes this helps eliminate excess CO2. Has anyone plumbed their return directly to the skimmer? If so how does it work.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Plumbing the probe into Tee on the return would probally be an overkill. You have to clean the probe; what you going to do take it apart everytime you need to clean it?

The effluent needs to drip into the sump; why not just let it drip into a cup or tube that can house the probe and the effluent hose and then let the cup drip into the sump. EASY.

With regard to the effluent water going directly into the skimmer. I use to do that but now since the effluent drips from the tube described above into that water supply that the pump gets to go into the skimmer I don't need it. Instead, I use the port on the skimmer for the effluent of the O3 reactor.
 
So keep it simple dummy is the best advice. Thanks, I can do that, besides wife will be happy I didnt spend any money for an electrode holder and more fittings.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6309451#post6309451 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbasser5
So keep it simple dummy is the best advice. Thanks, I can do that, besides wife will be happy I didnt spend any money for an electrode holder and more fittings.
Click to expand...
a piece of 1/2" pvc pipe with a cap one end will fit the probe and the 1/4" effluent line quite well. You can then glue or tie wrap this pipe to something in your sump. Currently I'm using the plastic container from an old CA test kit. You can even use a test tube.
 
Melev and others,

What about the 1/4" line in the reactor. Did any of you use special tubing? I noticed on one of the websites they quoted 1/4" line specially made for CO2 use. I just used old line bought from the Depot????

I am too curious about the Milwaukee regulator.....

Thanks,
TAMU Reef
 
Vmichael, I use the bubble counter on the regulator. What is wrong with yours that makes you feel it needs replacing? Just curious.

I'm using normal airline tubing I had on hand for the CO to the Calcium Reactor.
 
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